Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:44 AM - Re: Z-14 Schematic (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 12:46 PM - Brownout battery charging? (donjohnston)
3. 04:29 PM - Re: Brownout battery charging? (Bob-tcw)
4. 05:08 PM - Re: Brownout battery charging? (Tim Andres)
5. 05:47 PM - Re: Brownout battery charging? (Bob-tcw)
6. 05:51 PM - Re: Brownout battery charging? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 05:57 PM - Re: Brownout battery charging? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 06:04 PM - Re: Brownout battery charging? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 06:18 PM - Re: Brownout battery charging? (donjohnston)
10. 06:20 PM - Re: Brownout battery charging? (Tim Andres)
11. 06:35 PM - Re: Brownout battery charging? (donjohnston)
12. 06:58 PM - Re: Re: Brownout battery charging? (Bob-tcw)
13. 07:36 PM - Re: Brownout battery charging? (donjohnston)
14. 07:37 PM - Re: Brownout battery charging? (donjohnston)
15. 07:43 PM - Re: Re: Brownout battery charging? (Tim Andres)
16. 10:51 PM - How is it I get a shock from an iPod? (Dave Saylor)
17. 11:48 PM - Re: How is it I get a shock from an iPod? (Etienne Phillips)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Z-14 Schematic |
At 11:34 PM 6/23/2014, you wrote:
I am using your Schematic Z-14 as my guide for the power circuits in
my Seawind project. There are some wire size callouts that confuse me.
You show 4awg thru the starter circuit up to the starter contactor,
for both main and aux. batteries, but 2awg from there to the starter.
You also show 2awg for the link between cross-feed contactor and main
battery contactor. Seems like the same current should demand the same
wire throughout.
The Z-figures are ARCHITCTURE drawings, not wiring diagrams.
EVERY wire used in the final configuration should be evaluated
for suitability to task which includes consideration mostly
for voltage drop. 2AWG (or larger) is probably necessary
for voltage drop considerations on your long leads. But
4AWG can be used for short run jumpers and especially to
battery terminal posts.
Batteries have to be in the nose for weight & balance & because
there's no other suitable space. It's 25ft from batteries to
starter. Seawind specified 2awg. I bumped it up to 1awg welding
cable, cause I get more copper for the buck, and want all the starter
power available. (No way in hell it can be hand propped.)
In other words, if 4AWG will work for the same engine
and battery combo in an RV, then the wire isn't in
trouble for overheating in a seaplane . . . the long
wire runs dictate more copper to keep the cranking
performance up.
There is no usable firewall space, so the contactors are up front
with the batteries.
Not sure what you mean here. Battery contactors mount
as close as practical to batteries, starter contactor
as close as practical to starter.
Regulators go there too-only one field wire each need go back.
Why is 4awg called out for main alt. "B" to starter contactor?
If run to a 50A breaker in the panel
Please no b-lead breakers on panel . . . use current limiter
or fat-fuse at the contacotrs). Size the wire as your
voltage drops dictate. Z-14 in a seaplane brings b-leads
up front on long wires. Starter contactor should be close
to starter and main alternator b-lead tied into system
AT the hot side of the contactor . . . use that starter
current fat-wire to service the alternator too.,
6awg should be enough? (Regulator reads voltage at the other end?)
. . . long wire, legacy practices call for limiting
voltage drop to a few percent at full alternator
load.
What does * = 6 inches or less mean?
Means the two devices should be as close to each
other as practical.
What is "Note 10"--I couldn't find it in your book.
Not sure . . . may be an editing error.
Why a 30A fuse shown for both alternators? Aux is shown 20A, and Main
is shown 40A (Mine is 60A). B & C supplied 2 5A field breakers & one
50A. from the B.O.M on their version of Z-14.
This is not a wiring diagram . . . adjust sizes
according to your particular constellation of
accessories.
Should have been one 15A breaker for the Aux. Alt.(Maybe I've misplaced it.)
Use fuses on b-leads OFF the panel. Field supply
breakers should be 5A
Thanks again for showing me where to get P-Lead Ferrule Kits and
shielded wire at reasonable cost.
I could use some suggestions on the most "sanitary" way to tap into
the shielded p-lead wires to get signals to the E.I.S.
I am using the Grand Rapids Technology E.I.S. & E.F.I.S. package. The
E.I.S.is mounted in the tailcone beneath the engine nacelle. Of 50
pins, 3 do nothing, 3 go to the front and the balance do various
engine monitoring chores. One wire carries serial data about
everything to the E.F.I.S displays 20ft. to the front. Better to run
3 long wires than 47!
Put a terminal block next to GRT databox to 'break out'
p-lead signals.
After power, the "fun" really starts. Two E.F.I.S. panels, Audio
panel, 1 A.H.R.S, 1 ADS-B, Remote Magnetometer, flap and trim
indicators, autopilot servos,Garmin 650. Remote G.P.S. antenna,
Remote Transponder, Strobes, Ldg. Lights, Nav Lights, Pitot Heat,
Dual nav and com antennae, marker beacon antenna, tip float camera,
analog to digital camera adapter, video selector switch, maybe fish
finder and add'tl camera, 4 fuel pumps,ldg. gear switches and last
but not least, DVD player for the copilot to watch dirty movies in
the right E.F.I.S. on the way to Air Venture.
Would covering the welding cable with oil line fire sleeve satisfy a D.A.R.?
(Exhaust will be 6 in. away.)
Yes . . .
Bob . . .
Message 2
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Subject: | Brownout battery charging? |
Because my last question was incredibly educational, I thought that I would try
another. :D
I'm thinking that I would like to have a brownout battery to keep the EFIS up during
engine start. I thought about using a "deslumpifier" but figured that a
brownout battery would have the added bonus of keeping the EFIS up during a...
main battery failure, contactor failure, etc. (those not being the primary reason
though).
My primary challenge is that I've got a 24v (or 28v if that's how you want to call
it) electrical system and every auxiliary or backup battery that I've seen
is 12v. But I found these:
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/xt.html
or these:
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/gr12vo45amph.html
Which would be wired in series.
I'm using a VPX-Pro and they support a backup battery and attached is the approach
I was thinking of taking. The EFIS has multiple, diode protected power inputs
so I would simply run one of the alternate power inputs to the backup battery.
Here's the question: Will they charge when wired as described? These batteries
are lead acid batteries so given my limited knowledge of battery technology,
it seems to me that it should work. I contacted the vendor and they would not
comment beyond using the correct wall charger for these batteries. Attempting
to charge them any other way will result in reversing the rotation of the planet
and killing all life.
So given that, I'm not sure if this is the right battery.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425383#425383
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/backup_battery_160.jpg
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
I know many on this list are about rolling their own designs and I'm all for
that, however, if you want an engineered solution to this problem we have
it available. Our series of IPS products, (intelligent power
stabilizer) provides the exact function of preventing critical equipment
from rebooting during engine starting. Our products our purpose built
DC:DC converters that run from very low voltages and provide a stabilized
output to the connected load. We have both 12 volt and 24 volt models in
stock.
All the details are at: www.tcwtech.com just click on the pictures of
IPS products.
In my RV-10 I use our IPS-12v-4a unit to protect my Garmin GNS430. It
provides stable 12 volt power to the GNS system with battery voltages as low
as 4 volts.
Bob Newman
N541RV
-----Original Message-----
From: donjohnston
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2014 3:43 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Brownout battery charging?
Because my last question was incredibly educational, I thought that I would
try another. :D
I'm thinking that I would like to have a brownout battery to keep the EFIS
up during engine start. I thought about using a "deslumpifier" but figured
that a brownout battery would have the added bonus of keeping the EFIS up
during a... main battery failure, contactor failure, etc. (those not being
the primary reason though).
My primary challenge is that I've got a 24v (or 28v if that's how you want
to call it) electrical system and every auxiliary or backup battery that
I've seen is 12v. But I found these:
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/xt.html
or these:
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/gr12vo45amph.html
Which would be wired in series.
I'm using a VPX-Pro and they support a backup battery and attached is the
approach I was thinking of taking. The EFIS has multiple, diode protected
power inputs so I would simply run one of the alternate power inputs to the
backup battery.
Here's the question: Will they charge when wired as described? These
batteries are lead acid batteries so given my limited knowledge of battery
technology, it seems to me that it should work. I contacted the vendor and
they would not comment beyond using the correct wall charger for these
batteries. Attempting to charge them any other way will result in reversing
the rotation of the planet and killing all life.
So given that, I'm not sure if this is the right battery.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425383#425383
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/backup_battery_160.jpg
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
Bob, do you happen to be familiar with the GTN 650 power input scheme? I used the
diode isolated power pins on a 430 install (NAV & Comm) to provide power from
two different busses, now I'm helping a friend with his 650 install and he
wanted to do the same. Were told the multiple input pins on the 650 are not diode
isolated. I'm surprised by this, any thoughts why they did this?
Thanks, Tim
> On Jun 24, 2014, at 4:28 PM, "Bob-tcw" <rnewman@tcwtech.com> wrote:
>
>
> I know many on this list are about rolling their own designs and I'm all for
that, however, if you want an engineered solution to this problem we have it
available. Our series of IPS products, (intelligent power stabilizer) provides
the exact function of preventing critical equipment from rebooting during
engine starting. Our products our purpose built DC:DC converters that run
from very low voltages and provide a stabilized output to the connected load.
We have both 12 volt and 24 volt models in stock.
>
> All the details are at: www.tcwtech.com just click on the pictures of IPS products.
>
> In my RV-10 I use our IPS-12v-4a unit to protect my Garmin GNS430. It provides
stable 12 volt power to the GNS system with battery voltages as low as 4 volts.
>
> Bob Newman
> N541RV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: donjohnston
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2014 3:43 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Brownout battery charging?
>
>
> Because my last question was incredibly educational, I thought that I would try
another. :D
>
> I'm thinking that I would like to have a brownout battery to keep the EFIS up
during engine start. I thought about using a "deslumpifier" but figured that
a brownout battery would have the added bonus of keeping the EFIS up during a...
main battery failure, contactor failure, etc. (those not being the primary
reason though).
>
> My primary challenge is that I've got a 24v (or 28v if that's how you want to
call it) electrical system and every auxiliary or backup battery that I've seen
is 12v. But I found these:
>
>
> http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/xt.html
>
> or these:
>
> http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/gr12vo45amph.html
>
> Which would be wired in series.
>
> I'm using a VPX-Pro and they support a backup battery and attached is the approach
I was thinking of taking. The EFIS has multiple, diode protected power inputs
so I would simply run one of the alternate power inputs to the backup battery.
>
> Here's the question: Will they charge when wired as described? These batteries
are lead acid batteries so given my limited knowledge of battery technology,
it seems to me that it should work. I contacted the vendor and they would
not comment beyond using the correct wall charger for these batteries. Attempting
to charge them any other way will result in reversing the rotation of the
planet and killing all life.
>
> So given that, I'm not sure if this is the right battery.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425383#425383
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/backup_battery_160.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
Yes, I'm totally aware of this (blunder!) I've talked to my friends at
Garmin, as we have designed many of our products with their gear in mind and
know them quite well, and they were surprised by the removal of such a
useful feature. They really did not have a good reason for this change,
only some mild stumbling about how the GTN is probably already on an
essential bus of some sort. It was pretty lame.
Anyway, there you have it, they removed a perfectly good feature!.
BTW, we do have an application drawing for utilizing our IBBS back-up
product line with GTN navigators. Our IBBS products have the diode
isolation built-in.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies,
N541RV
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Andres
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2014 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Brownout battery charging?
Bob, do you happen to be familiar with the GTN 650 power input scheme? I
used the diode isolated power pins on a 430 install (NAV & Comm) to provide
power from two different busses, now I'm helping a friend with his 650
install and he wanted to do the same. Were told the multiple input pins on
the 650 are not diode isolated. I'm surprised by this, any thoughts why they
did this?
Thanks, Tim
> On Jun 24, 2014, at 4:28 PM, "Bob-tcw" <rnewman@tcwtech.com> wrote:
>
>
> I know many on this list are about rolling their own designs and I'm all
> for that, however, if you want an engineered solution to this problem we
> have it available. Our series of IPS products, (intelligent power
> stabilizer) provides the exact function of preventing critical equipment
> from rebooting during engine starting. Our products our purpose built
> DC:DC converters that run from very low voltages and provide a stabilized
> output to the connected load. We have both 12 volt and 24 volt models in
> stock.
>
> All the details are at: www.tcwtech.com just click on the pictures of
> IPS products.
>
> In my RV-10 I use our IPS-12v-4a unit to protect my Garmin GNS430. It
> provides stable 12 volt power to the GNS system with battery voltages as
> low as 4 volts.
>
> Bob Newman
> N541RV
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: donjohnston
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2014 3:43 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Brownout battery charging?
>
> <don@velocity-xl.com>
>
> Because my last question was incredibly educational, I thought that I
> would try another. :D
>
> I'm thinking that I would like to have a brownout battery to keep the EFIS
> up during engine start. I thought about using a "deslumpifier" but
> figured that a brownout battery would have the added bonus of keeping the
> EFIS up during a... main battery failure, contactor failure, etc. (those
> not being the primary reason though).
>
> My primary challenge is that I've got a 24v (or 28v if that's how you want
> to call it) electrical system and every auxiliary or backup battery that
> I've seen is 12v. But I found these:
>
>
> http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/xt.html
>
> or these:
>
> http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/gr12vo45amph.html
>
> Which would be wired in series.
>
> I'm using a VPX-Pro and they support a backup battery and attached is the
> approach I was thinking of taking. The EFIS has multiple, diode protected
> power inputs so I would simply run one of the alternate power inputs to
> the backup battery.
>
> Here's the question: Will they charge when wired as described? These
> batteries are lead acid batteries so given my limited knowledge of battery
> technology, it seems to me that it should work. I contacted the vendor
> and they would not comment beyond using the correct wall charger for these
> batteries. Attempting to charge them any other way will result in
> reversing the rotation of the planet and killing all life.
>
> So given that, I'm not sure if this is the right battery.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425383#425383
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/backup_battery_160.jpg
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
At 07:07 PM 6/24/2014, you wrote:
>
>Bob, do you happen to be familiar with the GTN 650 power input
>scheme? I used the diode isolated power pins on a 430 install (NAV &
>Comm) to provide power from two different busses, now I'm helping a
>friend with his 650 install and he wanted to do the same. Were told
>the multiple input pins on the 650 are not diode isolated. I'm
>surprised by this, any thoughts why they did this?
Looking through the GTN650 manual at
http://tinyurl.com/lc6v4th
I find no references to diode isolation
within the GTN640 between nav and comm
radio power. This is consistent with
other Garmin installations I've had
any contact with. One input is for comm,
the other for nav and they are independent
of each other.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Brownout battery charging?
At 07:07 PM 6/24/2014, you wrote:
Bob, do you happen to be familiar with the GTN 650 power input
scheme? I used the diode isolated power pins on a 430 install (NAV &
Comm) to provide power from two different busses, now I'm helping a
friend with his 650 install and he wanted to do the same. Were told
the multiple input pins on the 650 are not diode isolated. I'm
surprised by this, any thoughts why they did this?
Looking through the GTN650 manual at
http://tinyurl.com/lc6v4th
I find no references to diode isolation
within the GTN640 between nav and comm
radio power. This is consistent with
other Garmin installations I've had
any contact with. One input is for comm,
the other for nav and they are independent
of each other.
Just checked the manual for the 430 at
http://tinyurl.com/kwvhtxh
and found the same thing . . .
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
At 02:43 PM 6/24/2014, you wrote:
>
>Because my last question was incredibly educational, I thought that
>I would try another. :D
>
>I'm thinking that I would like to have a brownout battery to keep
>the EFIS up during engine start. I thought about using a
>"deslumpifier" but figured that a brownout battery would have the
>added bonus of keeping the EFIS up during a... main battery failure,
>contactor failure, etc. (those not being the primary reason though).
What's your anticipated architecture? Under what
conditions do you anticipate a battery failure?
>My primary challenge is that I've got a 24v (or 28v if that's how
>you want to call it) electrical system and every auxiliary or backup
>battery that I've seen is 12v. But I found these:
Yeah, you'll have to roll your own and you're
going to be loathe to install anything with
robustness . . . meaning small . . . meaning
not particularly long-lived when connected
across a DC bus system.
The deslumpifier is by far the more elegant
solution . . . with a Z-13/8 or similar
architecture and rudimentary preventative
maintenance, there's just no compelling driver
for bolting more boxes full of lead to your
airplane . . . even itty-bitty ones.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
rnewman(at)tcwtech.com wrote:
> I know many on this list are about rolling their own designs and I'm all for
> that, however, if you want an engineered solution to this problem we have
> it available. Our series of IPS products, (intelligent power
> stabilizer) provides the exact function of preventing critical equipment
> from rebooting during engine starting. Our products our purpose built
> DC:DC converters that run from very low voltages and provide a stabilized
> output to the connected load. We have both 12 volt and 24 volt models in
> stock.
I had asked about 24v versions of your product not too long ago (I think the last
time was last year at OSH) and was told you didn't have a 24v version. I looked
on your website and couldn't find any mention either.
Can you provide a link to your 24v IPS product?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425410#425410
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
I don't believe it spells this out in the 430 manual (BobK), but the pins are diode
isolated internally, multi pins on both comm and NAV sections. So just like
GRT equipment it would power from the pin with the highest voltage present.
Normally the pins are just tied together, but the option is there if you have
a dual bus aircraft. Evidently they decided not to do this on the 650.
Tim
> On Jun 24, 2014, at 5:55 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
wrote:
>
>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Brownout battery charging?
>
>
> At 07:07 PM 6/24/2014, you wrote:
>
>
> Bob, do you happen to be familiar with the GTN 650 power input scheme? I used
the diode isolated power pins on a 430 install (NAV & Comm) to provide power
from two different busses, now I'm helping a friend with his 650 install and he
wanted to do the same. Were told the multiple input pins on the 650 are not
diode isolated. I'm surprised by this, any thoughts why they did this?
>
> Looking through the GTN650 manual at
> http://tinyurl.com/lc6v4th
> I find no references to diode isolation
> within the GTN640 between nav and comm
> radio power. This is consistent with
> other Garmin installations I've had
> any contact with. One input is for comm,
> the other for nav and they are independent
> of each other.
>
> Just checked the manual for the 430 at
> http://tinyurl.com/kwvhtxh
> and found the same thing . . .
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
>
> What's your anticipated architecture?
Not sure what you're looking for. Like I said, I'm running a VPX-Pro, 24v electrical
system. I don't know how much more you need beyond the diagram I posted.
Let me know, and I'll provide it.
> Under what conditions do you anticipate a battery failure?
I don't anticipate a battery failure. My primary reason is to keep the EFIS during
engine start. An added benefit is being able to power the EFIS in the event
of a battery or contactor failure. The latter is just an added benefit. Not
a primary reason.
>
> Yeah, you'll have to roll your own and you're going to be loathe to install anything
with robustness . . . meaning small . . . meaning not particularly long-lived
when connected across a DC bus system.
Well, I was looking at 3-5ah (the EFIS and AHRS draw about 2a). So I certainly
wasn't looking for cross-country endurance.
> The deslumpifier is by far the more elegant solution . . . with a Z-13/8 or
similar architecture and rudimentary preventative maintenance, there's just no
compelling driver for bolting more boxes full of lead to your airplane . . .
even itty-bitty ones.
Eric Jones provided me with a schematic for his DeSlumpifier a while back. But
after thinking about the time to make the changes for a 24v system and build it,
I thought that a backup battery option may be quicker and easier.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425412#425412
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
The 24 volt version of the IPS system is at:
http://tcwtech.com/intelligent_power_stabilize_24v.htm
Bob Newman
-----Original Message-----
From: donjohnston
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2014 9:16 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Brownout battery charging?
rnewman(at)tcwtech.com wrote:
> I know many on this list are about rolling their own designs and I'm all
> for
> that, however, if you want an engineered solution to this problem we
> have
> it available. Our series of IPS products, (intelligent power
> stabilizer) provides the exact function of preventing critical equipment
> from rebooting during engine starting. Our products our purpose built
> DC:DC converters that run from very low voltages and provide a stabilized
> output to the connected load. We have both 12 volt and 24 volt models in
> stock.
I had asked about 24v versions of your product not too long ago (I think the
last time was last year at OSH) and was told you didn't have a 24v version.
I looked on your website and couldn't find any mention either.
Can you provide a link to your 24v IPS product?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425410#425410
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
rnewman(at)tcwtech.com wrote:
> The 24 volt version of the IPS system is at:
> http://tcwtech.com/intelligent_power_stabilize_24v.htm
>
> Bob Newman
> --
Ahhh. I think I see the confusion. This is basically a DeSlumpifier, right? I
was thinking battery.
This is definitely an option. I'm at the point where I'm trying to avoid major
detours. And building a DeSlumpifier from scratch could become a black hole
of time.
Thanks!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425420#425420
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
rnewman(at)tcwtech.com wrote:
> The 24 volt version of the IPS system is at:
> http://tcwtech.com/intelligent_power_stabilize_24v.htm
>
> Bob Newman
> --
Ahhh. I think I see the confusion. This is basically a DeSlumpifier, right? I
was thinking battery.
This is definitely an option. I'm at the point where I'm trying to avoid major
detours. And building a DeSlumpifier from scratch could become a black hole
of time.
Thanks!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425421#425421
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Subject: | Re: Brownout battery charging? |
If it's just brownout, and you have a 28V system...I'm guessing the EFIS will run
on 12-28 volts, so I doubt you'll sag under 12 volts when cranking. Be fine
won't it?
Tim
> On Jun 24, 2014, at 6:34 PM, "donjohnston" <don@velocity-xl.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
>>
>> What's your anticipated architecture?
>
> Not sure what you're looking for. Like I said, I'm running a VPX-Pro, 24v electrical
system. I don't know how much more you need beyond the diagram I posted.
Let me know, and I'll provide it.
>
>> Under what conditions do you anticipate a battery failure?
>
> I don't anticipate a battery failure. My primary reason is to keep the EFIS during
engine start. An added benefit is being able to power the EFIS in the event
of a battery or contactor failure. The latter is just an added benefit. Not
a primary reason.
>
>
>>
>> Yeah, you'll have to roll your own and you're going to be loathe to install
anything with robustness . . . meaning small . . . meaning not particularly long-lived
when connected across a DC bus system.
>
> Well, I was looking at 3-5ah (the EFIS and AHRS draw about 2a). So I certainly
wasn't looking for cross-country endurance.
>
>
>> The deslumpifier is by far the more elegant solution . . . with a Z-13/8 or
similar architecture and rudimentary preventative maintenance, there's just no
compelling driver for bolting more boxes full of lead to your airplane . . .
even itty-bitty ones.
>
> Eric Jones provided me with a schematic for his DeSlumpifier a while back. But
after thinking about the time to make the changes for a 24v system and build
it, I thought that a backup battery option may be quicker and easier.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425412#425412
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Subject: | How is it I get a shock from an iPod? |
Here's a non-aviation question for the group. Unless you fly with an iPod,
I guess.
Background:
My son complained today that he got shocked by an iPod. FWIW, it's a 5th
gen nano plugged into an Apple USB charging cube by an Apple charging
cord--not knock-off parts. First I said yeah, right...but he insisted so
like an idiot I figured I'd show him how that was impossible....and of
course I got shocked too. Not as strong as 120VAC but enough to get my
attention.
We were both barefoot (key, I think...) on a concrete slab, in the garage.
It happened when either of us touched the metal lock switch. I've never
had any issues with the power strip we were using.
Putting a meter between the lock switch and ground I measure an
invigorating 60VAC. Between the neutral of the power strip to any other
ground is zero, so I figure the power strip is wired correctly. Inverting
the cube (it's not polarized) makes no difference, still 60VAC.
I tried a few things: different plug, no shock. Different cord, no shock.
Different cube, no shock. I went back to the original combination:
BZZZZT. So it is repeatable.
There's an Apple support document describing the possibility of static
shock when using their device. This was not your typical
feet-on-carpet-touch-a-doorknob static shock. It was sustained as long as I
touched the lock switch.
The iPod works and charges just fine except for that particular combination
of parts.
Questions:
In general, how is it that an iPod can give me an electric, non-static
shock? I thought that USB was only 5V. How does more than 5V get into the
system? Or more appropriately, how does it get out of the system? Could
this happen from a 12V system, or is part of the 120V getting through?
Thanks for tolerating a non-airplane topic,
--Dave Saylor
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Subject: | Re: How is it I get a shock from an iPod? |
Hi Dave
I think it's an Apple thing - I get zapped by my aluminium Macbook Pro,
exactly how you describe it - when it's plugged in. Sometimes it's actually
painful, since the skin in the inner arms is pretty sensitive! I don't know
if it's any different here in a 220V country, but I'd really like to get to
the bottom of it. It's happened at multiple locations, which leads me to
believe that it's also not affected by the supply wiring.
Thanks
Etienne
On 25 June 2014 07:49, Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Here's a non-aviation question for the group. Unless you fly with an
> iPod, I guess.
>
> Background:
>
> My son complained today that he got shocked by an iPod. FWIW, it's a 5th
> gen nano plugged into an Apple USB charging cube by an Apple charging
> cord--not knock-off parts. First I said yeah, right...but he insisted so
> like an idiot I figured I'd show him how that was impossible....and of
> course I got shocked too. Not as strong as 120VAC but enough to get my
> attention.
>
> We were both barefoot (key, I think...) on a concrete slab, in the garage.
> It happened when either of us touched the metal lock switch. I've never
> had any issues with the power strip we were using.
>
> Putting a meter between the lock switch and ground I measure an
> invigorating 60VAC. Between the neutral of the power strip to any other
> ground is zero, so I figure the power strip is wired correctly. Inverting
> the cube (it's not polarized) makes no difference, still 60VAC.
>
> I tried a few things: different plug, no shock. Different cord, no shock.
> Different cube, no shock. I went back to the original combination:
> BZZZZT. So it is repeatable.
>
> There's an Apple support document describing the possibility of static
> shock when using their device. This was not your typical
> feet-on-carpet-touch-a-doorknob static shock. It was sustained as long as I
> touched the lock switch.
>
> The iPod works and charges just fine except for that particular
> combination of parts.
>
> Questions:
>
> In general, how is it that an iPod can give me an electric, non-static
> shock? I thought that USB was only 5V. How does more than 5V get into the
> system? Or more appropriately, how does it get out of the system? Could
> this happen from a 12V system, or is part of the 120V getting through?
>
> Thanks for tolerating a non-airplane topic,
>
> --Dave Saylor
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
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