Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:44 AM - wall warts (GLEN MATEJCEK)
2. 08:47 AM - Re: Engine Fire/Compartment Temperature Alert (Eric M. Jones)
3. 01:15 PM - Re: Re: iPod shocks (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 02:18 PM - Re: sundry questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 03:42 PM - Re: Re: sundry questions (Tim Andres)
6. 04:39 PM - Re: Re: sundry questions (John Tipton)
7. 05:00 PM - Re: Re: sundry questions (BobsV35B@aol.com)
8. 07:12 PM - Re: Re: iPod shocks (David Saylor)
Message 1
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>
> HI Bob- speaking of:
>
> ... I did get your 'tingling wall wart'...
>
> were you able to tinker with / learn anything from the potentially
malfunctioning battery tender?
Inquiring minds want to know!
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Engine Fire/Compartment Temperature Alert |
Or maybe better yet:
Google: fire detection techniques
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426368#426368
Message 3
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Got out to the lab this morning with Dave's 'tingly'
wall-wart. Connected the two ac mains tabs together
as one terminal. Tied all wires in a USB cable together
and stuck the connector into the wall-wart's output
jack.
The test-set I had access to didn't offer the 1,500 VAC/
2,200 VDC test levels commonly used for line powered
equipment.
Made three 'hi-pot' measurements at 250, 500 and
1000 VDC each. All the average value of measured
leakage resistance was 55,000 ohms.
One would have liked to test this power supply at
about 2200 VDC and look for a leakage current
less that 0.5 mA translating to a resistance on
the order of 4.4 Megohms.
The relative stability of leakage resistance over
the 250-1000 VDC test range suggests that barring
arc-over failure, the leakage current at 2200 volts
would be on the order of 2200/55,000 = 0.04A or
abut 80x the test target.
I disassembled the test article to capture these
images.
http://tinyurl.com/oxbyprq
http://tinyurl.com/oahyg4a
http://tinyurl.com/pfbsxbo
http://tinyurl.com/pjnwyom
I'll do some additional testing to see if I can
repeat Dave's measurements at the wall socket. But
in any case, this particular design would probably
not pass any organization's safety testing
reqluirements.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: sundry questions |
At 10:07 AM 7/9/2014, you wrote:
>BTW, I've read your book. Very nice for a first time builder.
Thank you.
>Hope you don't mind a few questions.
Not at all . . . but I would like for you to join the AeroElectric-List
for any future conversation. It's always a good thing when we share
these conversations with the community.
>I plan on going with fuses for the majority of the circuit
>protection as you recommended. When I went to your web site to find
>fuse blocks and bus bars, I had a hard time navigating through the
>site. Do you have an online product catalog, or is that something I
>have to buy? When I clicked on the link the first time, an order
>form came up. I tried again at a later time and finally made it to
>the fuse block section, but the pdf descriptions that came up was
>hardly readable.
I don't sell any hardware at present. I have in the
past but right now, B&C at http://bandc.biz has the
vast majority of my legacy products and merchandise.
I'm talking with them about upgrades to products and
getting some new items. Time is my tight commodity.
I'm contracting for Beech/Cessna/Hawker and there
aren't very many gray-beards around to remember how
and why some things were done . . . waayyyyy back when.
>I'm a vfr only pilot and am considering surface mounting an I-pad
>mini on the dash as a backup. It would run Foreflight and
>communicate with a Stratus Two. I've heard the pads tend to
>overheat and was thinking about installing a cooling fan behind it
>in the panel. Do you have any thoughts on this? What type fan
>should I use to avoid RFI, etc? How many cfm? Do you have a
>simpler idea, or am I needlessly worrying about the overheating problem?
Folks on the List can better sources of information
on this than I. I'm surprised about 'heat issues' . . .
these things draw about 3-5 watts in operation, the
vast majority of which gets turned into heat. Unless
there are items with localized heat-dissipation issues
(doubtful for a hand-held device), I would not expect
there to be any problems for operational heating.
However, these things are not designed to RESIDE on a
panel of an airplane parked out in the sun. I sure
wouldn't leave one in a parked airplane.
>The other thing I was looking for was 12v usb port I could hardwire
>near my panel (not a cigarette lighter adapter) so the pad would be
>charged while in flight. Blue Sea makes usb ports for marine
>application that looks good, but didn't know if you had any.
That's a popular topic on the List. A number of
builders have tried various commercial off the self
12v/USB power adapters with varying degrees of
success. Depending on how handy you are with
a soldering iron, you could craft an airplane-
friendly, 14V to 5VUSB adapter starting with
a reasonably robust assembly as a core . . .
something like these . . .
http://tinyurl.com/ovowqbu
http://tinyurl.com/px42t7f
. . . mounted in a metal enclosure and fitted with
sure-to-work filters and over-load protection.
Alternatively, something like this . . .
http://tinyurl.com/pbvmbb3
. . . might be just fine in terms of performance
and noise . . . you'd just have to try it.
>I also read your article on using shielded cable for the LIghtspeed
>electronic ignition instead of the coax. The use of epoxy to seal
>the wiring seemed like a pain and was wondering if using a tighter
>fitting, larger shielded wire with shrink wrapping would be ok. Are
>the reasons for not using larger cable expense, flexibility, and weight?
Klaus had a cow when I wrote that article . . . seems
that coax cable was necessary if the system were going
to generate 2" long sparks between coil towers. Going
to shielded wire dropped the output to 1.5" sparks.
Still about 100x more than needed to make the engine run
but I'll have to concede a 'drop in performance'.
The original problem with coax was his recommendation
for using RG-58 . . . with insulation that drips off
the wire when you try to solder it. He has since revised
his recommendation to RG-400 coax . . . modern, hi-temp
insulation.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: sundry questions |
I think you'll be unhappy with a panel mounted Ipad, they will heat soak from the
sun in a hurry and simply turn off. I use one however and love it, but I stow
it out of the sun (and thieves) view when parked and just set it on my legs
in flight.
FWIW
Tim
> On Jul 9, 2014, at 2:16 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
wrote:
>
>
> At 10:07 AM 7/9/2014, you wrote:
>> BTW, I've read your book. Very nice for a first time builder.
>
> Thank you.
>
>> Hope you don't mind a few questions.
>
> Not at all . . . but I would like for you to join the AeroElectric-List
> for any future conversation. It's always a good thing when we share
> these conversations with the community.
>
>> I plan on going with fuses for the majority of the circuit protection as you
recommended. When I went to your web site to find fuse blocks and bus bars,
I had a hard time navigating through the site. Do you have an online product
catalog, or is that something I have to buy? When I clicked on the link the first
time, an order form came up. I tried again at a later time and finally made
it to the fuse block section, but the pdf descriptions that came up was hardly
readable.
>
> I don't sell any hardware at present. I have in the
> past but right now, B&C at http://bandc.biz has the
> vast majority of my legacy products and merchandise.
> I'm talking with them about upgrades to products and
> getting some new items. Time is my tight commodity.
> I'm contracting for Beech/Cessna/Hawker and there
> aren't very many gray-beards around to remember how
> and why some things were done . . . waayyyyy back when.
>
>
>> I'm a vfr only pilot and am considering surface mounting an I-pad mini on the
dash as a backup. It would run Foreflight and communicate with a Stratus Two.
I've heard the pads tend to overheat and was thinking about installing a cooling
fan behind it in the panel. Do you have any thoughts on this? What type
fan should I use to avoid RFI, etc? How many cfm? Do you have a simpler idea,
or am I needlessly worrying about the overheating problem?
>
> Folks on the List can better sources of information
> on this than I. I'm surprised about 'heat issues' . . .
> these things draw about 3-5 watts in operation, the
> vast majority of which gets turned into heat. Unless
> there are items with localized heat-dissipation issues
> (doubtful for a hand-held device), I would not expect
> there to be any problems for operational heating.
>
> However, these things are not designed to RESIDE on a
> panel of an airplane parked out in the sun. I sure
> wouldn't leave one in a parked airplane.
>
>> The other thing I was looking for was 12v usb port I could hardwire near my
panel (not a cigarette lighter adapter) so the pad would be charged while in flight.
Blue Sea makes usb ports for marine application that looks good, but didn't
know if you had any.
>
> That's a popular topic on the List. A number of
> builders have tried various commercial off the self
> 12v/USB power adapters with varying degrees of
> success. Depending on how handy you are with
> a soldering iron, you could craft an airplane-
> friendly, 14V to 5VUSB adapter starting with
> a reasonably robust assembly as a core . . .
> something like these . . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ovowqbu
>
> http://tinyurl.com/px42t7f
>
>
> . . . mounted in a metal enclosure and fitted with
> sure-to-work filters and over-load protection.
>
> Alternatively, something like this . . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/pbvmbb3
>
> . . . might be just fine in terms of performance
> and noise . . . you'd just have to try it.
>
>> I also read your article on using shielded cable for the LIghtspeed electronic
ignition instead of the coax. The use of epoxy to seal the wiring seemed like
a pain and was wondering if using a tighter fitting, larger shielded wire
with shrink wrapping would be ok. Are the reasons for not using larger cable
expense, flexibility, and weight?
>
> Klaus had a cow when I wrote that article . . . seems
> that coax cable was necessary if the system were going
> to generate 2" long sparks between coil towers. Going
> to shielded wire dropped the output to 1.5" sparks.
> Still about 100x more than needed to make the engine run
> but I'll have to concede a 'drop in performance'.
>
> The original problem with coax was his recommendation
> for using RG-58 . . . with insulation that drips off
> the wire when you try to solder it. He has since revised
> his recommendation to RG-400 coax . . . modern, hi-temp
> insulation.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: sundry questions |
This is my 4year old grandson, flying P2, with my IPad suction mounted on my
C172
John
Sent from my iPad
----x--O--x----
> On 9 Jul 2014, at 11:40 pm, Tim Andres <tim2542@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> I think you'll be unhappy with a panel mounted Ipad, they will heat soak f
rom the sun in a hurry and simply turn off. I use one however and love it, b
ut I stow it out of the sun (and thieves) view when parked and just set it o
n my legs in flight.
> FWIW
> Tim
>
>> On Jul 9, 2014, at 2:16 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroe
lectric.com> wrote:
>>
lls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>>
>> At 10:07 AM 7/9/2014, you wrote:
>>> BTW, I've read your book. Very nice for a first time builder.
>>
>> Thank you.
>>
>>> Hope you don't mind a few questions.
>>
>> Not at all . . . but I would like for you to join the AeroElectric-List
>> for any future conversation. It's always a good thing when we share
>> these conversations with the community.
>>
>>> I plan on going with fuses for the majority of the circuit protection as
you recommended. When I went to your web site to find fuse blocks and bus b
ars, I had a hard time navigating through the site. Do you have an online p
roduct catalog, or is that something I have to buy? When I clicked on the l
ink the first time, an order form came up. I tried again at a later time an
d finally made it to the fuse block section, but the pdf descriptions that c
ame up was hardly readable.
>>
>> I don't sell any hardware at present. I have in the
>> past but right now, B&C at http://bandc.biz has the
>> vast majority of my legacy products and merchandise.
>> I'm talking with them about upgrades to products and
>> getting some new items. Time is my tight commodity.
>> I'm contracting for Beech/Cessna/Hawker and there
>> aren't very many gray-beards around to remember how
>> and why some things were done . . . waayyyyy back when.
>>
>>
>>> I'm a vfr only pilot and am considering surface mounting an I-pad mini o
n the dash as a backup. It would run Foreflight and communicate with a Stra
tus Two. I've heard the pads tend to overheat and was thinking about instal
ling a cooling fan behind it in the panel. Do you have any thoughts on this
? What type fan should I use to avoid RFI, etc? How many cfm? Do you have
a simpler idea, or am I needlessly worrying about the overheating problem?
>>
>> Folks on the List can better sources of information
>> on this than I. I'm surprised about 'heat issues' . . .
>> these things draw about 3-5 watts in operation, the
>> vast majority of which gets turned into heat. Unless
>> there are items with localized heat-dissipation issues
>> (doubtful for a hand-held device), I would not expect
>> there to be any problems for operational heating.
>>
>> However, these things are not designed to RESIDE on a
>> panel of an airplane parked out in the sun. I sure
>> wouldn't leave one in a parked airplane.
>>
>>> The other thing I was looking for was 12v usb port I could hardwire near
my panel (not a cigarette lighter adapter) so the pad would be charged whil
e in flight. Blue Sea makes usb ports for marine application that looks goo
d, but didn't know if you had any.
>>
>> That's a popular topic on the List. A number of
>> builders have tried various commercial off the self
>> 12v/USB power adapters with varying degrees of
>> success. Depending on how handy you are with
>> a soldering iron, you could craft an airplane-
>> friendly, 14V to 5VUSB adapter starting with
>> a reasonably robust assembly as a core . . .
>> something like these . . .
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/ovowqbu
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/px42t7f
>>
>>
>> . . . mounted in a metal enclosure and fitted with
>> sure-to-work filters and over-load protection.
>>
>> Alternatively, something like this . . .
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/pbvmbb3
>>
>> . . . might be just fine in terms of performance
>> and noise . . . you'd just have to try it.
>>
>>> I also read your article on using shielded cable for the LIghtspeed elec
tronic ignition instead of the coax. The use of epoxy to seal the wiring se
emed like a pain and was wondering if using a tighter fitting, larger shield
ed wire with shrink wrapping would be ok. Are the reasons for not using lar
ger cable expense, flexibility, and weight?
>>
>> Klaus had a cow when I wrote that article . . . seems
>> that coax cable was necessary if the system were going
>> to generate 2" long sparks between coil towers. Going
>> to shielded wire dropped the output to 1.5" sparks.
>> Still about 100x more than needed to make the engine run
>> but I'll have to concede a 'drop in performance'.
>>
>> The original problem with coax was his recommendation
>> for using RG-58 . . . with insulation that drips off
>> the wire when you try to solder it. He has since revised
>> his recommendation to RG-400 coax . . . modern, hi-temp
>> insulation.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: sundry questions |
Test!
Old Bob
In a message dated 7/9/2014 4:19:18 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
At 10:07 AM 7/9/2014, you wrote:
>BTW, I've read your book. Very nice for a first time builder.
Thank you.
>Hope you don't mind a few questions.
Not at all . . . but I would like for you to join the AeroElectric-List
for any future conversation. It's always a good thing when we share
these conversations with the community.
>I plan on going with fuses for the majority of the circuit
>protection as you recommended. When I went to your web site to find
>fuse blocks and bus bars, I had a hard time navigating through the
>site. Do you have an online product catalog, or is that something I
>have to buy? When I clicked on the link the first time, an order
>form came up. I tried again at a later time and finally made it to
>the fuse block section, but the pdf descriptions that came up was
>hardly readable.
I don't sell any hardware at present. I have in the
past but right now, B&C at http://bandc.biz has the
vast majority of my legacy products and merchandise.
I'm talking with them about upgrades to products and
getting some new items. Time is my tight commodity.
I'm contracting for Beech/Cessna/Hawker and there
aren't very many gray-beards around to remember how
and why some things were done . . . waayyyyy back when.
>I'm a vfr only pilot and am considering surface mounting an I-pad
>mini on the dash as a backup. It would run Foreflight and
>communicate with a Stratus Two. I've heard the pads tend to
>overheat and was thinking about installing a cooling fan behind it
>in the panel. Do you have any thoughts on this? What type fan
>should I use to avoid RFI, etc? How many cfm? Do you have a
>simpler idea, or am I needlessly worrying about the overheating problem?
Folks on the List can better sources of information
on this than I. I'm surprised about 'heat issues' . . .
these things draw about 3-5 watts in operation, the
vast majority of which gets turned into heat. Unless
there are items with localized heat-dissipation issues
(doubtful for a hand-held device), I would not expect
there to be any problems for operational heating.
However, these things are not designed to RESIDE on a
panel of an airplane parked out in the sun. I sure
wouldn't leave one in a parked airplane.
>The other thing I was looking for was 12v usb port I could hardwire
>near my panel (not a cigarette lighter adapter) so the pad would be
>charged while in flight. Blue Sea makes usb ports for marine
>application that looks good, but didn't know if you had any.
That's a popular topic on the List. A number of
builders have tried various commercial off the self
12v/USB power adapters with varying degrees of
success. Depending on how handy you are with
a soldering iron, you could craft an airplane-
friendly, 14V to 5VUSB adapter starting with
a reasonably robust assembly as a core . . .
something like these . . .
http://tinyurl.com/ovowqbu
http://tinyurl.com/px42t7f
. . . mounted in a metal enclosure and fitted with
sure-to-work filters and over-load protection.
Alternatively, something like this . . .
http://tinyurl.com/pbvmbb3
. . . might be just fine in terms of performance
and noise . . . you'd just have to try it.
>I also read your article on using shielded cable for the LIghtspeed
>electronic ignition instead of the coax. The use of epoxy to seal
>the wiring seemed like a pain and was wondering if using a tighter
>fitting, larger shielded wire with shrink wrapping would be ok. Are
>the reasons for not using larger cable expense, flexibility, and weight?
Klaus had a cow when I wrote that article . . . seems
that coax cable was necessary if the system were going
to generate 2" long sparks between coil towers. Going
to shielded wire dropped the output to 1.5" sparks.
Still about 100x more than needed to make the engine run
but I'll have to concede a 'drop in performance'.
The original problem with coax was his recommendation
for using RG-58 . . . with insulation that drips off
the wire when you try to solder it. He has since revised
his recommendation to RG-400 coax . . . modern, hi-temp
insulation.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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|
Thanks Bob. Glad to know it's not just me!
do not archive
On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 1:13 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> Got out to the lab this morning with Dave's 'tingly'
> wall-wart. Connected the two ac mains tabs together
> as one terminal. Tied all wires in a USB cable together
> and stuck the connector into the wall-wart's output
> jack.
>
> The test-set I had access to didn't offer the 1,500 VAC/
> 2,200 VDC test levels commonly used for line powered
> equipment.
>
> Made three 'hi-pot' measurements at 250, 500 and
> 1000 VDC each. All the average value of measured
> leakage resistance was 55,000 ohms.
>
> One would have liked to test this power supply at
> about 2200 VDC and look for a leakage current
> less that 0.5 mA translating to a resistance on
> the order of 4.4 Megohms.
>
> The relative stability of leakage resistance over
> the 250-1000 VDC test range suggests that barring
> arc-over failure, the leakage current at 2200 volts
> would be on the order of 2200/55,000 = 0.04A or
> abut 80x the test target.
>
> I disassembled the test article to capture these
> images.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/oxbyprq
>
> http://tinyurl.com/oahyg4a
>
> http://tinyurl.com/pfbsxbo
>
> http://tinyurl.com/pjnwyom
>
> I'll do some additional testing to see if I can
> repeat Dave's measurements at the wall socket. But
> in any case, this particular design would probably
> not pass any organization's safety testing
> reqluirements.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
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