Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:51 AM - Re: Schematic symbol (Michael Garmon)
2. 08:38 AM - Re: Schematic symbol (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 12:32 PM - Re: GNS430 Microphone/Sidetone Problem (John Loram)
4. 03:01 PM - Lithium Battery Experience - Sept. Kitplanes Article (jaustinmd)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Schematic symbol |
Mike,
I have used this symbol. I believe I found it in the "The Aeroelectric
Connection" on page 1-10 in Figure 1-13.
-Michael Garmon
On Sat, Jul 26, 2014 at 9:54 PM, mmayfield <mmayfield@ozemail.com.au> wrote:
> mmayfield@ozemail.com.au>
>
> OK, I give in. I've looked everywhere for a schematic symbol for a
> switch-breaker. I have every type of switch known to humankind, and
> standard circuit breakers, but not a switch-breaker.
>
> Any clues, or is it just drawn like a standard circuit breaker?
>
> --------
> Mike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=427390#427390
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Schematic symbol |
At 07:49 AM 7/27/2014, you wrote:
>Mike,
>I have used this symbol. I believe I found it in the "The
>Aeroelectric Connection" on page 1-10 in Figure 1-13.
>
>-Michael Garmon
I don't think there is any 'industry recognized' symbol
unique to this device so as Mike has noted, I made one
up. If you're doing AutoCAD drawings, the symbol is
included in the library of symbols on the website.
I recall a few years back that there was no 'industy
recognized' symbol for the DPDT-ON-ON-ON toggle switch.
At least not in the 'approved' mil-spec symbology
that had been adopted by Cessna. One such switch was
used in an autopilot installation I had to write about.
I crafted a symbol not unlike those found in the
'Connection publications today. Got a bucket of flack
from my super and was told to use the symbol for a
DP3T ON-OFF-ON . . . which happened to be the way that
ARC Radio supplied the schematic to us!.
"But boss!", sez I. "That doesn't help me explain
how it works to my readers. "Don't you never mind
son . . . it's ARC's product and we'll treat them
with respect." "Oh," sez I. "Okay". I had to write
a bunch of words explaining how the switch functioned
in the system hoping that my words would over-ride
the 'jump off the page' misunderstanding that was
published in the drawing.
A few years later, alternators started finding their
way onto our airplanes, the great DC Master Switch
Conundrum rose up whereupon the split-rocker was born. Hmmm . . .
how to show THAT thing on a drawing?
One of the guys over in the electrical group came
up with this:
Emacs!
Push the bottom switch to ON and it forces the
top switch ON too. But with both on, you can turn
the bottom switch OFF and leave the top switch
ON. "Cool" thinks I. "A schematic symbol that COMMUNICATES
functionality with little if any head-scratching
on the part of the observer." Guess what? THAT
switch wasn't in the mil-specs either . . . but
the guy heading up the electrical group understood
the value of jump-off-the-page understanding
better than my boss . . . who was in the business
of publishing.
The point to be taken away from this missive and
Jeff's comment is that what ever symbol you do use
should first NOT CONFUSE any future readers of
your work product. After that, speak (or draw)
to operational nuances in ways that jump-off-the-
page at you.
I've seen breakers depicted thusly on various
drawings over the years
Emacs!
and all three of these pictures 'make sense'
when more than one style appears in the same
publication. It helps when either a table of
symbols or accompanying text speaks to
the existence of more than one style of breaker
in the system . . . but as Jeff points out, were
you to use ANY of the three to speak to the
ELECTRICAL functionality of any circuit breaker
in a schematic, no valuable information
is lost. Adding the little nuances to depict
MECHANICAL operation is just icing on the
cupcake.
Bottom line is, make a drawing that YOU
understand first but keeping in mind that
it may be useful that somebody else understands
it in the future.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | GNS430 Microphone/Sidetone Problem |
Sound like the voice of experience!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Lloyd
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2014 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: GNS430 Microphone/Sidetone Problem
--> <skywagon@charter.net>
Sacha makes a very good point. .
The 430 chassis to box-chassis connector fit is finicky.
I know. . .I have the "T-shirt"
If the box-chassis is mounted in the aircraft panel a little to deep, this
causes a problem. For when the 430 is slid into the box, it will not seat
back deep enough to fully engage some connector pins.
The fix is to loosen up the panel mounted box chassis and pull it forward to
be flush with the panel or even a tad ( 1/16") out in front of the panel and
then re-bolt it back to the panel framing.
Another point. . .I do not recommend that you use the 430 locking jack
mechanism to pull the 430 back into its locked position. If something is
not aligned correctly you will not know it using the this method and could
damage pins.
I suggest that you get the 430 inserted by hand, fingers on each end of the
the 430 panel. Gently rock it back in place feeling for any obstruction.
Get it started in, turn the jacking system just enough to take up the slack.
Then, using fingers only, rock the 430 further back into place and again
feel for any odd resistance, then, using the jack, take up the slack.
Continue this until you "feel" it seat properly with it rear connectors.
Stop if you feel any odd resistance and start over after checking for any
bent pins, etc.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sacha" <uuccio@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2014 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: GNS430 Microphone/Sidetone Problem
>
> I had that problem. The GNS430 wasn't fully inserted into its slot and
> although the RX and TX button lit up it did not seem to transmit (or
> receive as I remember). See
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=98650&view=next&sid=a9694aaf0de0
5619e08664647aea1483
>
>
>> On 26 Jul 2014, at 18:01, Matthew Prather <mapratherid@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I think someone had this issue when their radio wasn't fully inserted
>> into the tray/rack. Might not be the case here, but could be worth
>> checking out.
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Lithium Battery Experience - Sept. Kitplanes Article |
Bob requested in his recent article that those experimenting with Lithium batteries
relate their experiences. I built a Zenith STOL CH750 with a Jabiru 3300
engine - a day/VFR, non-electrically dependent aircraft - perfect for experimentation!
I originally installed a PC680 and it worked flawlessly. As I accumulated hours
and increased empty weight from various modifications, I looked to using a LiFePO4
battery to gain back some useful load. I had heard that the Aerovoltz 12-cell
would readily crank the Jab 3300, so I purchased a Ballistic 12-cell (same
battery but cheaper!). Initially, things were fine - it spun the 3300 as good
or better than the PC680 (and saved about 12-13 lbs doing it!). However, I
began to get erratic tach readings and looked at the alternator leads where the
tach picks up and the Jabiru OEM female spade leads appeared burned! After consulting
Jabiru USA, I replaced the rather flimsy leads with quality AMP female
spade connectors. THEN, my 20 amp alternator breaker began to trip!
At this point, I did a lot of research and found that since the Jab 3300 doesn't
output charging current 'til about 1800-1900 rpm, my theory was that the connectors
were frying due to the surge of charging current after take off and low
internal resistance of the battery, and once the connectors were corrected,
the little Ballistic battery was getting hit with a surge of charging current
in excess of 20 amps and tripping the breaker.
I did two things - I reviewed my wiring and found I was good for up to a 35 amp
breaker to protect it, so I replaced the breaker with a 35A, and switched to
an EarthX ETX36D which supposedly has close to the capacity of the PC680. I'm
really happy so far (several months) with the ETX36D - it seems to function just
as well as the PC680. It spins the prop for starts as well or better as the
PC680 and although the Jab 3300 is not charging during ground operations, there
is negligible voltage drop when powering-up the EFIS, transponder, radio, etc.
(The PC680 found a happy home in my '82 911SC Porsche, which was a weight
savings vs a conventional auto battery!) The Ballistic will be re-purposed in
my UTV.
Time will tell as to durability and performance of the EarthX, but for now I'm
a happy camper!
John
N750A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=427414#427414
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