Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:40 AM - Re: Schematic symbol (mmayfield)
2. 08:12 AM - Re: Schematic symbol (Eric M. Jones)
3. 08:24 AM - tachometer question (Sacha)
4. 08:39 AM - Re: tachometer question (Dj Merrill)
5. 08:57 AM - Re: Lithium Battery Experience - Sept. Kitplanes Article (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 09:21 AM - Re: tachometer question (David Lloyd)
7. 09:37 AM - Wiring a 2 dash 7 Two pole Switch for my flaps (AZFlyer)
8. 10:33 AM - Re: tachometer question (rayj)
9. 10:44 AM - Re: GNS430 Microphone/Sidetone Problem (Jared Yates)
10. 12:24 PM - Is Bob at Oshkosh? (David Saylor)
11. 01:06 PM - Re: Wiring a 2 dash 7 Two pole Switch for my flaps (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 01:06 PM - Re: Is Bob at Oshkosh? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 01:07 PM - Re: speedometer, not tachometer question (Sacha)
14. 01:23 PM - Re: GNS430 Microphone/Sidetone Problem (Sacha)
15. 02:30 PM - Re: speedometer, not tachometer question (David Lloyd)
16. 06:40 PM - Re: LiFePo Battery (eschlanser)
17. 08:52 PM - Re: speedometer, not tachometer question (Sacha)
18. 09:07 PM - Ni-Cad? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Schematic symbol |
Ah thanks Mike. I could've sworn I looked at every schematic in the AEC library
but must've missed it.
Yes Bob, that's the exact reason I want a different symbol for it. I have mainly
conventional breakers however I also have 2 switch breakers which power a couple
of low-cycle non flight-critical system circuits. I want to make sure the
circuit diagram accurately represents the system components for the benefit of
anyone who may happen to be working on it other than myself.
--------
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=427429#427429
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| Subject: | Re: Schematic symbol |
There really are standards for this sort of thing; many many standards. Ugh...
See: http://symbols.radicasoftware.com/category/Circuit-Breakers.html
But you'd do almost as good drawing a little box with a label in it.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=427437#427437
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| Subject: | tachometer question |
This is a non-aviation question but I hope relevant to this lists' interest.
The needle of my pickup truck's tachometer has started to vibrate
significantly more than it used to. Whereas it used to be only a few km/h,
now it goes from 50km/h to 60km/h and back incessantly with a period of
about 1 second. It seems excessive and I was wondering if it's the sign of
something wrong. Where would I start looking?
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: tachometer question |
On 07/28/2014 11:22 AM, Sacha wrote:
> Whereas it used to be only a few km/h,
> now it goes from 50km/h to 60km/h and back incessantly with a period of
> about 1 second. It seems excessive and I was wondering if it's the sign of
> something wrong. Where would I start looking?
My Audi's speedometer does something similar. My guess is that it is
either the servo motor that controls the needle (common in the TT), or
the speed sensor on the transmission.
Might be something similar with your tach.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Lithium Battery Experience - Sept. Kitplanes |
Article
At 05:00 PM 7/27/2014, you wrote:
Bob requested in his recent article that those experimenting with
Lithium batteries relate their experiences. I built a Zenith STOL
CH750 with a Jabiru 3300 engine - a day/VFR, non-electrically
dependent aircraft - perfect for experimentation!
Thank you for taking the time to share . . .
I purchased a Ballistic 12-cell. Initially, things were fine - it
spun the 3300 as good or better than the PC680 (and saved about 12-13
lbs doing it!).
However, I began to get erratic tach readings and looked at the
alternator leads where the tach picks up and the Jabiru OEM female
spade leads appeared burned! After consulting Jabiru USA, I replaced
the rather flimsy leads with quality AMP female spade connectors.
According to the Jabiru wiring diagram for this
engine http://tinyurl.com/mpsmquh
the tachometer drives from a variable
reluctance pickup that looks at features
on the flywheel . . . gear teeth, bolt heads,
etc.
This is a TINY signal that is unlikely to
burn anything. What you may have observed in
terms of discoloration is corrosion. But in any
case, if you have spade terminal females getting
loose or corroded, be aware of the potential for
similar problems every other place you used this
same terminal . . . this particular failure
would not have been related to your battery
change-out.
THEN, my 20 amp alternator breaker began to trip!
Where was this breaker installed?
At this point, I did a lot of research and found that since the Jab
3300 doesn't output charging current 'til about 1800-1900 rpm,
. . . typical of ALL brands and sizes of permanent
magnet 'dynamos' . . .
. . . my theory was that the connectors were frying due to the surge
of charging current after take off and low internal resistance of the
battery, and once the connectors were corrected, the little Ballistic
battery was getting hit with a surge of charging current in excess of
20 amps and tripping the breaker.
Those connectors were not associated with any part of
the battery recharging current.
I did two things - I reviewed my wiring and found I was good for up
to a 35 amp breaker to protect it, so I replaced the breaker with a
35A, and switched to an EarthX ETX36D which supposedly has close to
the capacity of the PC680.
Why the battery change? When I'm informed as to the
location of 20/35A breakers, we can begin to figure
out root cause of the tripping phenomenon you observed.
It's not clear that the trip is related to the differences
in batteries. The alternator is rated for 200W continuous
which is 200/14 or about 14A. It MIGHT be that the lithium
battery's willingness to accept charge at 14v is greater
than the Lead-Acid . . . I'll need to explore that with
some lithium cells on the bench. If that's true, then
substitution of lithium for lead in your particular
installation may be putting your rectifier/regulator/
alternator at risk. These systems are generally not
current limited like wound-field alternators. So while
up-sizing the breaker may have fixed a symptom, it
doesn't answer the question as to why the 20A breaker
was popping. Do you have an alternator loadmeter . . .
if not, would you be willing to install one temporarily
to sort out the questions?
Time will tell as to durability and performance of the EarthX, but
for now I'm a happy camper!
It's not clear that the AeroVoltz would not be performing
as well as the EarthX . . . But the EarthX does feature
a full-up battery management system not unlike that
installed in the TrueBlue products presently finding
their way onto TC aircraft.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: tachometer question |
Sacha,
Can't help without knowing if the tach is driven by cable or electronics.
If cable, then lubricating the cable would probably stop the tach needle
from whipping.
_________________________________________________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sacha" <uuccio@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 8:22 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: tachometer question
>
> This is a non-aviation question but I hope relevant to this lists'
> interest.
> The needle of my pickup truck's tachometer has started to vibrate
> significantly more than it used to. Whereas it used to be only a few
> km/h,
> now it goes from 50km/h to 60km/h and back incessantly with a period of
> about 1 second. It seems excessive and I was wondering if it's the sign
> of
> something wrong. Where would I start looking?
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Wiring a 2 dash 7 Two pole Switch for my flaps |
Bob,
I've read your explanation on wiring various switches several times now and am
still not certain what I should be using in my plane.
I recently flew a few hours in a Remos G3. The flap switch installed as standard
used a "bump down, or hold down" to deploy the flaps and a single "bump up"
to retract fully.
(Spring loaded both directions.) The flap switch in my Zenith 601XL requires bumping
both directions (or holding) to extend or retract. I would like to duplicate
the Remos switch.
My flap motor has limit switches in both directions if that makes any difference.
Do I need a different two pole switch or need to wire my 2-7 differently?
Thanks,
Mike
--------
Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com
601 XL-B, 3300, Dynon
Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=427446#427446
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: tachometer question |
You're talking about 2 different things.
Tachometer-measures engine rpm
Thing that measures in Km/h - speedometer (drive train rpm)
Please clarify which system you're talking about.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
The things we admire in men, kindness and generosity, openness, honesty,
understanding and feeling are the concomitants of failure in our system.
And those traits we detest, sharpness, greed, acquisitiveness, meanness,
egotism and self-interest are the traits of success. And while men
admire the quality of the first they love the produce of the second.
-John Steinbeck, novelist, Nobel laureate (1902-1968)
On 07/28/2014 10:22 AM, Sacha wrote:
>
> This is a non-aviation question but I hope relevant to this lists' interest.
> The needle of my pickup truck's tachometer has started to vibrate
> significantly more than it used to. Whereas it used to be only a few km/h,
> now it goes from 50km/h to 60km/h and back incessantly with a period of
> about 1 second. It seems excessive and I was wondering if it's the sign of
> something wrong. Where would I start looking?
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: GNS430 Microphone/Sidetone Problem |
Thanks for all of the troubleshooting tips! I removed the 430, visually inspected
the pins carefully, and reseated it as David suggests, and it is fixed!
> On Jul 26, 2014, at 21:02, "David Lloyd" <skywagon@charter.net> wrote:
>
>
> Sacha makes a very good point. .
> The 430 chassis to box-chassis connector fit is finicky.
> I know. . .I have the "T-shirt"
>
> If the box-chassis is mounted in the aircraft panel a little to deep, this causes
a problem. For when the 430 is slid into the box, it will not seat back
deep enough to fully engage some connector pins.
>
> The fix is to loosen up the panel mounted box chassis and pull it forward to
be flush with the panel or even a tad ( 1/16") out in front of the panel and then
re-bolt it back to the panel framing.
>
> Another point. . .I do not recommend that you use the 430 locking jack mechanism
to pull the 430 back into its locked position. If something is not aligned
correctly you will not know it using the this method and could damage pins.
>
> I suggest that you get the 430 inserted by hand, fingers on each end of the the
430 panel. Gently rock it back in place feeling for any obstruction. Get it
started in, turn the jacking system just enough to take up the slack. Then,
using fingers only, rock the 430 further back into place and again feel for any
odd resistance, then, using the jack, take up the slack.
> Continue this until you "feel" it seat properly with it rear connectors. Stop
if you feel any odd resistance and start over after checking for any bent pins,
etc.
> David
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sacha" <uuccio@gmail.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2014 11:20 AM
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: GNS430 Microphone/Sidetone Problem
>
>
>>
>> I had that problem. The GNS430 wasn't fully inserted into its slot and although
the RX and TX button lit up it did not seem to transmit (or receive as I remember).
See
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=98650&view=next&sid=a9694aaf0de05619e08664647aea1483
>>
>>
>>> On 26 Jul 2014, at 18:01, Matthew Prather <mapratherid@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I think someone had this issue when their radio wasn't fully inserted into
the tray/rack. Might not be the case here, but could be worth checking out.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Is Bob at Oshkosh? |
I heard that our fearless moderator was at OSH. Anyone know the details?
Booth, forum, etc?
--Dave
Do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring a 2 dash 7 Two pole Switch for my flaps |
At 11:36 AM 7/28/2014, you wrote:
Bob,
I've read your explanation on wiring various switches several times
now and am still not certain what I should be using in my plane.
I recently flew a few hours in a Remos G3. The flap switch installed
as standard used a "bump down, or hold down" to deploy the flaps and
a single "bump up" to retract fully. (Spring loaded both directions.)
The flap switch in my Zenith 601XL requires bumping both directions
(or holding) to extend or retract. I would like to duplicate the Remos switch.
Okay, the DPDT, (ON)-off-(ON) with both sides
loaded to center is the 2-7.
My flap motor has limit switches in both directions if that makes any
difference.
Do I need a different two pole switch or need to wire my 2-7 differently?
To get a DPDT (ON)-off-ON with only one side
loaded to center you need a 2-5.
http://tinyurl.com/9xh3dhq
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Is Bob at Oshkosh? |
At 02:22 PM 7/28/2014, you wrote:
>I heard that our fearless moderator was at OSH.
>Anyone know the details? Booth, forum, etc?
I wish . . .
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: speedometer, not tachometer question |
> Tachometer-measures engine rpm
>
> Thing that measures in Km/h - speedometer (drive train rpm)
Thanks for correcting me Raymond. I meant the speedometer.
It's a 1990 Toyota Hilux so I expect it's driven by cable not electronics (but
I'm no expert here so correct me if I'm wrong).
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: GNS430 Microphone/Sidetone Problem |
Great to hear! David's tips are very useful (found out the hard way...)
> On Jul 28, 2014, at 19:41, Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.com> wrote:
>
> it is fixed!
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: speedometer, not tachometer question |
Sacha,
If, indeed it is cable drive, that is probably the problem.
The cable drive interior gets dry over time and lots of friction develops.
Figure out a way to disconnect the top end of the cable and spray a silicon
based spray or similar down the interior of it.
It will take some time to work the lubricant down a tight cable.
Don't use WD-40. It congeals after time and in a long cable drive that is
bad situation. David
______________________________________________________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sacha" <uuccio@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: speedometer, not tachometer question
>
>
>> Tachometer-measures engine rpm
>>
>> Thing that measures in Km/h - speedometer (drive train rpm)
>
> Thanks for correcting me Raymond. I meant the speedometer.
>
> It's a 1990 Toyota Hilux so I expect it's driven by cable not electronics
> (but I'm no expert here so correct me if I'm wrong).
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: LiFePo Battery |
Guido,
Did you ever receive a reply to your battery question?
Sometimes questions get lost if Bob and others are busy sorting out other issues.
Ask again. I am also curious about the new batteries.
Eric
lapulce(at)sunrise.ch wrote:
> Hello Bob and who it may concerne,
> I am quite new to this group. I recently bought in Friedrichshafen at
> the Aero 2014 a new LiFePo battery from AeroAkku ( model LFP450 D
> Starter Battery for Lyc 0-320 ) The vendor told me that these
> batteries are built with A123 Systems elements APR 18650M1. Do you
> know this product ( it looks like a german assembly ) and has someone
> of this list some or even extended experience with this type of
> battery in general aviation especially concerning how to recharge and
> reliability.
> Thanks in advance
> Guido
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=427486#427486
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: speedometer, not tachometer question |
Thanks for the tip David.
Knowing nothing about how these things are built I assumed that this was an electrical
problem (I was imagining it was the sign of a faulty ground connection)
but I guess I was a long way off the mark. Apologies for the off topic post
and thanks again for everybody's help.
Sacha
> On Jul 28, 2014, at 23:29, "David Lloyd" <skywagon@charter.net> wrote:
>
> If, indeed it is cable drive, that is probably the problem.
> The cable drive interior gets dry over time and lots of friction develops.
> Figure out a way to disconnect the top end of the cable and spray a silicon based
spray or similar down the interior of it.
> It will take some time to work the lubricant down a tight cable.
> Don't use WD-40. It congeals after time and in a long cable drive that is bad
situation. David
Message 18
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>
>Great article 9/14 Kitplanes
Thank you . . . I'm gathering info for the 4th chapter . . .
>
>Will you be doing a NiCad comparison article? The NiCal seems to take a lot
>more punishment without problems and Air Bus said they were looking at
>them.
There are very few companies that offer ni-cads
suited to engine cranking. The legacy wet-cells
are still made for replacement and refurbishment
of an existing installation but they're not
well liked in the general aviation community.
I suggested that the OBAM aviation community
take a look at wet ni-cads back about 1988 . . .
but that was based on the availability of surplus
cells that could be sorted and assembled into
a DIY battery.
Next time I talk to Skip Koss at Concorde, I'll
ask him what his take is on the current state
of the Ni-Cad market . . .
Bob . . .
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