Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:33 AM - PC 680 Purchase (Owen Baker)
2. 06:04 AM - Re: PC 680 Purchase (Charlie England)
3. 06:08 AM - Re: PC 680 Purchase (Robert Borger)
4. 06:08 AM - Re: PC 680 Purchase (Robert Reed)
5. 06:14 AM - Re: PC 680 Purchase (Ralph E. Capen)
6. 06:34 AM - Shield wiring (MLWynn@aol.com)
7. 07:34 AM - Re: PC 680 Purchase (Tim)
8. 07:34 AM - Re: Z-19 Function (Ed meyer)
9. 08:00 AM - Re: PC 680 Purchase (Dj Merrill)
10. 08:35 AM - The cost/benefit ratio for automation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 08:39 AM - Re: Z-19 Function (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 09:11 AM - Re: Carling switch resistance for micro currents? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 09:36 AM - Re: Carling switch resistance for micro currents? (B Tomm)
14. 09:49 AM - Re: Shield wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 09:56 AM - Re: PC 680 Purchase (Charlie England)
16. 10:00 AM - LED PWM dimmer switch (Andy)
17. 10:07 AM - Re: LED PWM dimmer switch (Andy)
18. 10:22 AM - Re: PC 680 Purchase (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 10:51 AM - Re: PC 680 Purchase (Dj Merrill)
20. 10:51 AM - Re: Z-19 Function (jonlaury)
21. 11:03 AM - Re: PC 680 Purchase (Dj Merrill)
22. 12:55 PM - Re: Shield wiring (MLWynn@aol.com)
23. 01:58 PM - Re: Shield wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
24. 02:27 PM - Re: Shield wiring (MLWynn@aol.com)
25. 03:41 PM - Re: Shield wiring (Ken)
26. 03:58 PM - Re: PC 680 Purchase (Tim Yoder)
27. 04:54 PM - Re: Z-19 Function (user9253)
28. 07:54 PM - Re: Re: LED PWM dimmer switch (Robert Borger)
29. 08:41 PM - Re: Re: LED PWM dimmer switch (Andy)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
8/26/2014
Hello Fellow Listers, Please tell me (and other readers) why I should
pay more for an Odyssey PC 680 battery for my EAB airplane rather than a
less expensive battery that =9Cmay=9D be =9Cjust as
good=9D.
http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html
Thanks,
OC
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: PC 680 Purchase |
On 8/26/2014 7:32 AM, Owen Baker wrote:
> 8/26/2014
> Hello Fellow Listers, Please tell me (and other readers) why I should
> pay more for an Odyssey PC 680 battery for my EAB airplane rather than
> a less expensive battery that may be just as good.
> http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html
> Thanks,
> OC
>
I certainly can't help convince you. :-)
I've been using 'no name' AGM batteries in my homebuilts for almost 20
years. The only thing to watch is that some of the AGM batteries are
designed for use in UPS power supplies, electric wheel chairs, etc, and
their internal impedance is a bit higher than an Odyssey starting
battery. Either look for a 'no name' 18AH *starting* battery for a
motorcycle/watercraft, or buy a 22 AH AGM battery (same form factor as
the Odyssey) and don't worry about the intended application. The
slightly higher AH rating pushes the internal resistance down in the
same neighborhood as the Odyssey, meaning it can start an engine just as
well (or better) than the Odyssey, and has significantly better energy
reserve if you're 'electrically dependent'.
Charlie
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: PC 680 Purchase |
OC,
My 2=A2=85
The phrase =93may=94 be =93just as good.=94 sums it up. I don=92t like
=93may be=94 anywhere near my EAB aircraft. I=92ve piddled with other
=93may=94 be =93just as good=94 batteries and ended up replacing them
with a PC680 because it is the standard by which all the other =93may=94
be =93just as good=94 batteries are compared. It works as promised
every time all the time and I think it is worth paying for. So when my
last PC680 reached the end of its service life in July, I ordered
another PC680 to replace it.
I just wish that battery mart special had been on then. That=92s a good
deal!
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (50 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Aug 26, 2014, at 6:32 AM, Owen Baker <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
> 8/26/2014
>
> Hello Fellow Listers, Please tell me (and other readers) why I should
pay more for an Odyssey PC 680 battery for my EAB airplane rather than a
less expensive battery that =93may=94 be =93just as good=94.
>
> http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html
>
> Thanks,
>
> OC
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: PC 680 Purchase |
"May" be just as good? If you know it just as good there is no reason to pa
y more for the PC 680 but you seem to have some doubt and that "may" be your
answer.
Bob Reed
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 26, 2014, at 7:32 AM, "Owen Baker " <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
>
> 8/26/2014
>
> Hello Fellow Listers, Please tell me (and other readers) why I should pay m
ore for an Odyssey PC 680 battery for my EAB airplane rather than a less exp
ensive battery that =9Cmay=9D be =9Cjust as good=9D.
>
> http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html
>
> Thanks,
>
> OC
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: PC 680 Purchase |
Charlie,
More info on the 22 AH AGM battery
(same form factor as the Odyssey) please!
Brand, cost, source.....
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie England
Sent: Aug 26, 2014 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: PC 680 Purchase
On 8/26/2014 7:32 AM, Owen Baker wrote:
8/26/2014
Hello Fellow Listers, Please tell me (and other readers)
why I should pay more for an Odyssey PC 680 battery for my
EAB airplane rather than a less expensive battery that may
be just as good.
http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html
Thanks,
OC
I certainly can't help convince you. :-)
I've been using 'no name' AGM batteries in my homebuilts for almost
20 years. The only thing to watch is that some of the AGM batteries
are designed for use in UPS power supplies, electric wheel chairs,
etc, and their internal impedance is a bit higher than an Odyssey
starting battery. Either look for a 'no name' 18AH *starting*
battery for a motorcycle/watercraft, or buy a 22 AH AGM battery
(same form factor as the Odyssey) and don't worry about the intended
application. The slightly higher AH rating pushes the internal
resistance down in the same neighborhood as the Odyssey, meaning it
can start an engine just as well (or better) than the Odyssey, and
has significantly better energy reserve if you're 'electrically
dependent'.
Charlie
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hi all,
I am upgrading my ELT to a 406 model. The installation instructions say
to use a shielded wire to the GPS output. My ELT is located in the rear
(RV8) and the GPS in the front. Further, it requires ground and power (about
240 mAh).
I could easily run a 3 wire shielded cable from front to rear, ground at my
firewall forest of tabs and get power from a fuse block directly adjacent.
The question then becomes, how to get the shielded GPS signal from the
panel to the rear. In terms of shortest wire run, bringing the GPS lead down
from the panel and joining the three wire from the rear at the gear tower
would be best. If I use a shielded 20 gauge wire from the GPS down to join
the three wire from the rear, I need to figure out how to connect it to
the GPS designated wire in the three wire bundle. Specifically, how to deal
with the shielding. Should I ground it all at the firewall and somehow
solder the shields from the three wire and single wire together? Should the
GPS lead be grounded both at the firewall and at the GPS ground block?
I could also run a single shielded wire from the GPS to the ELT, power the
ELT from my battery bus and ground the ELT to the fuselage locally. That
would mean the ELT is constantly powered (as opposed to switched). I draws
little power but could conceivably drain a battery over a long period of
time.
Looking for help from the knowledgeable and experienced.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8
Livermore, CA
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: PC 680 Purchase |
I may be the exception since I am flying an all electric Stratus
Suburu, but I have been using a pair of UPS batteries I buy from
Batteries Plus for years. I replaced the ones I was using for final
building and testing in 2006 but have been using them in a battery pack
for remote use ever since and they still work great. I use two 7 AH
batteries that are connected in parallel for starting and then run two
independent busses for operation. I don't know about starting some of
those large bore engines but my Suburu spins and starts fine. I still
replace the batteries every couple of years "just in case" at $40.00
each it is cheap insurance, and I have a lot of small 12V batteries for
other projects.
Tim Shankland
----- Orignal Message -----
From: Owen Baker
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2014 8:32 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: PC 680 Purchase
8/26/2014
Hello Fellow Listers, Please tell me (and other readers) why I should
pay more for an Odyssey PC 680 battery for my EAB airplane rather than a
less expensive battery that =9Cmay=9D be =9Cjust as
good=9D.
http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html
Thanks,
OC
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Z-19 Function |
>If the aux pump is operated in parallel with a main pump for some
>phases of operation, then risk for having the AUX pump on all the >time
are probably zero. But you STILL need to independently confirm
>operation of each pump during pre-flight which is a check-list driven
>activity.
Now this is an idea that I had not considered. I have been used to the
procedures as mentioned where the aux pump was turned on for takeoff and
landing and off the rest of the time. The notion of simply leaving both
pumps on all the time makes a lot of sense and is certainly simple.
As always, thanks to everyone who chimed in. Has been a great
discussion.
Ed
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: PC 680 Purchase |
On 08/26/2014 08:32 AM, Owen Baker wrote:
> 8/26/2014
>
> Hello Fellow Listers, Please tell me (and other readers) why I should
> pay more for an Odyssey PC 680 battery for my EAB airplane rather than a
> less expensive battery that may be just as good.
>
> http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html
>
> Thanks,
>
> OC
Hi OC,
I posted this a couple of weeks ago, but will repeat it below. I just
received my new PC680 a couple of days ago and have not installed it in
the aircraft yet, but so far no voltage drop from just sitting on the
bench, unlike the UB12220 battery.
If you get a "good" UB12220 it "may" work fine, but I didn't want to
take a chance on getting stranded somewhere to save $60 in up-front
costs. I was going to replace the UB12220 every year, and have decided
to go for two years with the PC680 based on others' experiences, so the
cost turns out to be about the same in the end.
Here is my previous message:
Listers may recall that I tried one of the UB12220 batteries earlier
this summer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G8FY38/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I received the battery, put it on the Schumacher charger to ensure it
was fully charged (verified with a voltmeter when done), and installed
in the aircraft (O-320). Cranked over well on the first try and seemed
to turn the engine just as well as the "aircraft" battery that I had
removed.
However, two days later I took the airplane out again, and the blade
turned about 1/3 of the way through a revolution and stopped. Battery
was dead. I have no parasitic loads in my aircraft, so when the master
is off, there is nothing else connected to the battery, and I did not
accidentally leave the master switch on. Pulled the battery, put it on
the charger and let it fully charge (verified with a voltmeter). Left
it on the bench unconnected for a couple of days, and the voltage had
dropped to 10.86 volts.
I am assuming that the battery arrived defective, and I've double
checked the voltage output on the charger I used. This is only one data
point, but I will likely go with the PC680 when I get around to ordering
another battery.
On the positive side the company gave me a full refund on the battery,
so the overall "cost" was my time in trying the experiment.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | The cost/benefit ratio for automation |
>
>Is there a failure mode of the DFII that could result in the
>unwanted shutting off of a fuel pump? I am not saying that could
>happen, just saying that unexpected things could happen if the pilot
>is not very familiar with automatic systems. Regardless of the
>electrical system architecture, the builder needs to ask, "If this
>part fails, how will I know it, what are the consequences, and what
>is my plan B?"
Good question. The answers for this (and perhaps
others) are not readily apparent from reading
the literature for EFII.
I have no basis to suggest that the system as
supplied is not a good thing . . . as the same
time, much information that allows the system
integrator/pilot to understand and confidently use
the system is not known.
I have suggested throughout the evolution of the
z-figures that the legacy approach to operating
two pumps from two switches can be improved upon
by crafting separate power paths and perhaps sources
for energy to drive the pumps. When there is no risk
for having both pumps on simultaneously, then the
less-is-more approach to operation offers the least
risk for fuel starvation due to pump failure. The
same thought processes apply to any combination of
system components necessary for comfortable termination
of flight.
This presumes, of course, that the pilot's skills
for use of pumps is as ritualistic and deeply
entrenched as his/her ability to grease
landings, managing quartering cross-winds
gusting to 25, dealing comfortably with failed
alternators, radios, or instruments, and striving
to never have less than x gal of fuel on board
at destination.
Once we add automation to manage such things,
we're (1) challenged to have a plan-b for failure
of the automation to perform as advertised and
(2) subject to rise in risk for apathetic abrogation
of situational awareness to the capabilities of
the silicon (like 777s hitting the sea-wall).
It's a pretty sure bet that a Bob Hoover type
hand flying that airplane would have greased that
approach into gusting cross-winds while tracking
numbers on the panel with precision. It's attitude
and skills that separate pilots from airplane
operators. Buttons the panel labeled "taxi,
takeoff, fly, land, and park" make us operators.
Bob . . .
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Z-19 Function |
At 09:34 AM 8/26/2014, you wrote:
If the aux pump is operated in parallel with a main pump for
some >phases of operation, then risk for having the AUX pump on all
the >time are probably zero. But you STILL need to independently
confirm >operation of each pump during pre-flight which is a
check-list driven >activity.
Now this is an idea that I had not considered. I have been used to
the procedures as mentioned where the aux pump was turned on for
takeoff and landing and off the rest of the time. The notion of
simply leaving both pumps on all the time makes a lot of sense and is
certainly simple.
As always, thanks to everyone who chimed in. Has been a great discussion.
The next line of reasoning for this protocol is
to make sure that you have a process by which
the pumps are tested independently of each other
before take-off. It also behooves you to have
independent power supply paths for the two pumps
so no single failure takes down both pumps.
Bob . . .
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Carling switch resistance for micro currents? |
At 04:28 PM 8/25/2014, you wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. I have not been back to the hangar to do
anymore since posting my original question but I will add a little
more info here.
This particular circuit has never operated any load yet. It has been
sitting for a couple years since originally crafted. The plane is
in a heated/insulated space. Nothing else rusts or corrodes in this space.\
EVERYTHING corrodes. For sure, the layer may be only molecules
thick but its resistance can be significant and it rises
with time.
The fuse is 5amp. I believe I also clipped the meter's alligator
directly to the screw terminal of the fuse block thereby eliminating
the block and fuse but will retry tonight.
I don't have a battery in the plane yet. I use a 30 amp DC power
supply that plugs into a piper style remote power port. It puts out
14VDC and has run all my other loads just fine. When the DC power
supply is powered up, I get the full voltage at the load end of the
subject wire which is what I expected to see. Since there has never
been any load driven by this circuit (no current flowing) there has
never been and arky sparky happening at the switch. So, is some arky
sparky required to get the switch to indicate 0 ohms when in the on position?
Yes . . . under certain conditions.
I wouldn't think so but I seem to recall something about these
switches not being designed for extremely small currents.
Few switches are. Such devices are gold plated and
perhaps feature bifurcated contacts, etc. The catalogs
that offer such switches will speak to these features
and charge you more money for them. Run-of-the-mill
power handling switches, even the $high$ devices can
demonstrate corrosion induced open circuits when not
'exercised' for long periods of time. It's the nature
of the beast.
What I do see is open circuit with the switch off, dropping to
several megohms when on. I may try powering a medium load (5-10
amps) to see...
A) If the load powers up as expected while metering current through
the circuit.
B) Check the switch to see if it generates any noticeable heat during this test
C) Re measure the closed circuit resistance after the test to see if
it now appears more normal.
Forget the resistance measurements. Just load the far
end of the wire with something and then run the switch
through a few dozen cycles. The arcing at ANY current
level is never zero. You could deliberately pop
some 5A fuses . . . SOME arcing is expected to keep
corrosion products cleared from the contacts of ALL
power switches. "
A busy switch is a happy switch."
Bob . . .
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Carling switch resistance for micro currents? |
OK. Very good. I will put a load on and out of curiosity, check the total
circuit resistance again after a few dozen cycles.
Bevan
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2014 9:11 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Carling switch resistance for micro
currents?
At 04:28 PM 8/25/2014, you wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. I have not been back to the hangar to do
anymore since posting my original question but I will add a little more info
here.
This particular circuit has never operated any load yet. It has been
sitting for a couple years since originally crafted. The plane is in a
heated/insulated space. Nothing else rusts or corrodes in this space.\
EVERYTHING corrodes. For sure, the layer may be only molecules
thick but its resistance can be significant and it rises
with time.
The fuse is 5amp. I believe I also clipped the meter's alligator directly
to the screw terminal of the fuse block thereby eliminating the block and
fuse but will retry tonight.
I don't have a battery in the plane yet. I use a 30 amp DC power supply
that plugs into a piper style remote power port. It puts out 14VDC and has
run all my other loads just fine. When the DC power supply is powered up, I
get the full voltage at the load end of the subject wire which is what I
expected to see. Since there has never been any load driven by this circuit
(no current flowing) there has never been and arky sparky happening at the
switch. So, is some arky sparky required to get the switch to indicate 0
ohms when in the on position?
Yes . . . under certain conditions.
I wouldn't think so but I seem to recall something about these switches not
being designed for extremely small currents.
Few switches are. Such devices are gold plated and
perhaps feature bifurcated contacts, etc. The catalogs
that offer such switches will speak to these features
and charge you more money for them. Run-of-the-mill
power handling switches, even the $high$ devices can
demonstrate corrosion induced open circuits when not
'exercised' for long periods of time. It's the nature
of the beast.
What I do see is open circuit with the switch off, dropping to several
megohms when on. I may try powering a medium load (5-10 amps) to see...
A) If the load powers up as expected while metering current through the
circuit.
B) Check the switch to see if it generates any noticeable heat during this
test
C) Re measure the closed circuit resistance after the test to see if it now
appears more normal.
Forget the resistance measurements. Just load the far
end of the wire with something and then run the switch
through a few dozen cycles. The arcing at ANY current
level is never zero. You could deliberately pop
some 5A fuses . . . SOME arcing is expected to keep
corrosion products cleared from the contacts of ALL
power switches. "
A busy switch is a happy switch."
Bob . . .
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Shield wiring |
At 08:33 AM 8/26/2014, you wrote:
Hi all,
I am upgrading my ELT to a 406 model. The installation instructions
say to use a shielded wire to the GPS output. My ELT is located in
the rear (RV8) and the GPS in the front. Further, it requires ground
and power (about 240 mAh).
I could easily run a 3 wire shielded cable from front to rear, ground
at my firewall forest of tabs and get power from a fuse block
directly adjacent. The question then becomes, how to get the
shielded GPS signal from the panel to the rear. In terms of shortest
wire run, bringing the GPS lead down from the panel and joining the
three wire from the rear at the gear tower would be best.
What make/model is the ELT? Are there down-loadable
documents we can review?
The ELT is not a candidate for grounding on the firewall
forest of tabs (POWER STUFF). This is a piece of avionics.
First, when the ELT is mounted in the airplane, is there
any continuity between the power(-) wire that runs forward
and ship's ground? I would hope not but it doesn't hurt to
check. I would plan on grounding this article at the
avionics ground on the panel.
Emacs!
If I use a shielded 20 gauge wire from the GPS down to join the three
wire from the rear, I need to figure out how to connect it to the GPS
designated wire in the three wire bundle. Specifically, how to deal
with the shielding. Should I ground it all at the firewall and
somehow solder the shields from the three wire and single wire
together? Should the GPS lead be grounded both at the firewall and
at the GPS ground block?
I could also run a single shielded wire from the GPS to the ELT,
power the ELT from my battery bus and ground the ELT to the fuselage
locally. That would mean the ELT is constantly powered (as opposed
to switched). I draws little power but could conceivably drain a
battery over a long period of time.
Looking for help from the knowledgeable and experienced.
We REALLY need to see the installation documents
before useful recommendations can be crafted.
Bob . . .
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: PC 680 Purchase |
On 8/26/2014 10:00 AM, Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> On 08/26/2014 08:32 AM, Owen Baker wrote:
>> 8/26/2014
>>
>> Hello Fellow Listers, Please tell me (and other readers) why I should
>> pay more for an Odyssey PC 680 battery for my EAB airplane rather than a
>> less expensive battery that may be just as good.
>>
>> http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> OC
>
> Hi OC,
> I posted this a couple of weeks ago, but will repeat it below. I just
> received my new PC680 a couple of days ago and have not installed it in
> the aircraft yet, but so far no voltage drop from just sitting on the
> bench, unlike the UB12220 battery.
>
> If you get a "good" UB12220 it "may" work fine, but I didn't want to
> take a chance on getting stranded somewhere to save $60 in up-front
> costs. I was going to replace the UB12220 every year, and have decided
> to go for two years with the PC680 based on others' experiences, so the
> cost turns out to be about the same in the end.
>
>
> Here is my previous message:
>
> Listers may recall that I tried one of the UB12220 batteries earlier
> this summer:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G8FY38/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
> I received the battery, put it on the Schumacher charger to ensure it
> was fully charged (verified with a voltmeter when done), and installed
> in the aircraft (O-320). Cranked over well on the first try and seemed
> to turn the engine just as well as the "aircraft" battery that I had
> removed.
>
> However, two days later I took the airplane out again, and the blade
> turned about 1/3 of the way through a revolution and stopped. Battery
> was dead. I have no parasitic loads in my aircraft, so when the master
> is off, there is nothing else connected to the battery, and I did not
> accidentally leave the master switch on. Pulled the battery, put it on
> the charger and let it fully charge (verified with a voltmeter). Left
> it on the bench unconnected for a couple of days, and the voltage had
> dropped to 10.86 volts.
>
> I am assuming that the battery arrived defective, and I've double
> checked the voltage output on the charger I used. This is only one data
> point, but I will likely go with the PC680 when I get around to ordering
> another battery.
>
> On the positive side the company gave me a full refund on the battery,
> so the overall "cost" was my time in trying the experiment.
>
> -Dj
>
>
DJ,
I'd never tell you to do something you're not comfortable with, but I *would* caution
against implying that a single event makes a universal principle. Remember,
others have documented DOA & early failures of Odyssey batteries, too.
I've used 'cheap' batteries in my plane for almost 20 years, and the only early
failure I've had was due to a pinhole in a case; obviously a handling or or shipping
issue. Even in that 'case' (pardon the pun), the battery's starting ability
slowly degenerated over several months. Due to family and general 'life'
issues, I sometimes go a month or more between flights, and my multi-year old
cheapie still cranks my O320 just fine. Therefore, no evidence that 'the UB12220'
self-discharges any faster (or slower) than a PC680. I haven't bothered with
capacity testing yet, because this plane is a day-vfr, non-electrically dependent
a/c. I promise that I'll pay more attention to battery condition (but
I'll still use a cheapie) when my electrically dependent -7 flies. :-)
Charlie
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | LED PWM dimmer switch |
Hi,
I have a Kick Kr6 PWM dimmer (
powering an LED light strip like this one. Mounted under my glade shield for
flood lighting.
Problem is even on the lowest setting per say, the LED strip is too bright for
night flying. 1 option is cut the strip down to only 1 LED, option 2 figure out
how to possibly lower the amperage prior to the PWM dimmer to give it a smaller
range of amperages to dim with. I like option 2 but not sure how to do it.
Sent from my iPhone
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: LED PWM dimmer switch |
> Hi,
> I have a Kick Kr6 PWM dimmer http://www.kicklighting.com/PWM-dimmer-switch-for-LED.htm
> powering an LED light strip like this one http://www.ledsupply.com/led-strips/led-flex-strip-neutral-white Mounted under my glade shield for flood lighting.
> Problem is even on the lowest setting per say, the LED strip is too bright for
night flying. 1 option is cut the strip down to only 1 LED, option 2 figure
out how to possibly lower the amperage prior to the PWM dimmer to give it a smaller
range of amperages to dim with. I like option 2 but not sure how to do it.
> Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 26, 2014, at 11:59 AM, Andy <crabandy@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> I have a Kick Kr6 PWM dimmer (
> powering an LED light strip like this one. Mounted under my glade shield for
flood lighting.
> Problem is even on the lowest setting per say, the LED strip is too bright for
night flying. 1 option is cut the strip down to only 1 LED, option 2 figure
out how to possibly lower the amperage prior to the PWM dimmer to give it a smaller
range of amperages to dim with. I like option 2 but not sure how to do it.
> Sent from my iPhone
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: PC 680 Purchase |
If you get a "good" UB12220 it "may" work fine, but I didn't want to
take a chance on getting stranded somewhere to save $60 in up-front
costs. I was going to replace the UB12220 every year, and have decided
to go for two years with the PC680 based on others' experiences, so the
cost turns out to be about the same in the end.
How about TESTING what ever brand of battery you
use? The interesting thing about this thread is
what is NOT said. Whether the writer is for or against
any particular battery, the criteria for battery
selection is accompanied by little if any DATA.
I've lurked the aviation forum battery threads for
decades. I'm saddened to report than in no instance
has anyone advocated for any particular battery based
on measurements and assessment of data and operating
conditions that offer a reader opportunity to repeat
the experiment.
I've yet to read about any battery getting replaced
for failure to meet battery-only endurance requirements.
They get replaced when cranking performance degrades
or fails.
Batteries not withstanding, suitability to task for
any commodity is subject to a huge array of
variables. We are never privy to the operating conditions
or life-time experiences of batteries that performed
well versus those that have received poor marks.
Did a short-lived battery experience a deep-discharge
event? Is the charging voltage appropriate to long
life. How many cranking events did the Brand A successfully
power vs. those for Brand B? What was the cost-of-ownership
for Brand-A vs. Brand B?
I do not suggest that anecdotal data has no
value but it's a good thing that we understand the
difference between suds-n-burgers data versus
engineering data. The next time somebody offers
service life data on a battery, it would be REALLY
cool if the writer could offer months in service
where an endurance goal of x.x hours at x.x amps
was supported. If you've got an endurance
bus, then this number is easy to get . . . just
do a practice session for an alternator out event.
During a long cross country, shut the alternator of
and time the battery only endurance down to 11.0
volts.
Lacking hard data, the builder faced with
a purchasing decision is pretty much on his own
irrespective of the S-n-B data offered on the
forums. Being willing and able to put NUMBERS on
any battery experience is a really good thing.
Bob . . .
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: PC 680 Purchase |
On 08/26/2014 12:57 PM, Charlie England wrote:
>> I am assuming that the battery arrived defective, and I've double
>> checked the voltage output on the charger I used. This is only one data
>> point, but I will likely go with the PC680 when I get around to ordering
>> another battery.
>>
>>
>>
>
> DJ,
>
> I'd never tell you to do something you're not comfortable with, but I
> *would* caution against implying that a single event makes a universal
> principle.
Hi Charlie,
I did point out in my post that this was only one data point, and I was
not trying to make (and hope that no one thought I was implying) that my
experience was a general rule. I tried the "cheap" battery as an
experiment, and determined I didn't want to spend any more effort on it
after the first failure. I freely admit to simply being frustrated and
"just want something that works". On the flip side, I have had great
success with the UB types of batteries in UPS units for years, which is
what prompted me to try it in the first place.
Once bitten, twice shy, as they say... :-)
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Z-19 Function |
[quote="ed.meyer(at)outlook.com"]
> >If the aux pump is operated in parallel with a main pump for some >phases
of operation, then risk for having the AUX pump on all the >time are probably
zero. But you STILL need to independently confirm >operation of each
pump during pre-flight which is a check-list driven >activity.
>
Now this is an idea that I had not considered. I have been used to the procedures
as mentioned where the aux pump was turned on for takeoff and landing and
off the rest of the time. The notion of simply leaving both pumps on all the
time makes a lot of sense and is certainly simple.
As always, thanks to everyone who chimed in. Has been a great discussion.
Ed
> [b]
Hi Ed,
The fuel pump system operation on my all-electric plane was intended to emulate
legacy systems in low-wing carburetor planes that I trained in, that mandated
"aux" pump ON during TO/Ldg and/or
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429374#429374
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: PC 680 Purchase |
On 08/26/2014 01:20 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> *How about TESTING what ever brand of battery you *
> *use? The interesting thing about this thread is *
> *what is NOT said. Whether the writer is for or against *
> *any particular battery, the criteria for battery *
> *selection is accompanied by little if any DATA.*
Hi Bob,
We did discuss this here on the list back in the Spring, along with
criteria for battery selection, data, testing, etc... :-)
Not sure there is any point in rehashing the entire thread since it is
available in the archives, but the gist was simply to try it and see
what happened. I did, I wasn't satisfied, and decided as my fallback to
go with the more main stream solution, the PC680. Personally I don't
care what is stamped on the side of the battery as long as it works,
hence my willingness to attempt the experiment with the "cheap" battery.
It is possible that if I bought a second UB-type battery that it would
work fine, or possible that it would not, and I simply want to get the
plane back flying without having to fuss with it anymore. I "feel"
(nothing quantitative here) that going with the PC680 offers a higher
chance of success in this regard, given others experience with it.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Shield wiring |
Hi Bob,
As usual, I appreciate your insights. Looks like this is a little more
involved than I had originally thought.
My avionics ground is a thirty-seven pin Sub D that I think I got from your
site. Five wires go from it to the forest of tabs on the firewall. All
the avionics ground into this. The pins are all used so I may have to
piggyback into a previously used pin.
The ELT is an ACK E-04. The installation manual is here:
http://www.ackavionics.com/pdf/E-04_REV_1.7_SINGLE_PAGE_REDUCED.pdf
I re-read the installation instructions and they really don't specify much
about power or grounding. The only specification is "cockpit power" and
"cockpit ground".
I would much appreciate your advice on proper installation.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8
Livermore
In a message dated 8/26/2014 10:59:49 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com writes:
At 08:33 AM 8/26/2014, you wrote:
Hi all,
I am upgrading my ELT to a 406 model. The installation instructions say
to use a shielded wire to the GPS output. My ELT is located in the rear
(RV8) and the GPS in the front. Further, it requires ground and power (about
240 mAh).
I could easily run a 3 wire shielded cable from front to rear, ground at
my firewall forest of tabs and get power from a fuse block directly
adjacent. The question then becomes, how to get the shielded GPS signal from
the
panel to the rear. In terms of shortest wire run, bringing the GPS lead
down from the panel and joining the three wire from the rear at the gear tower
would be best.
What make/model is the ELT? Are there down-loadable
documents we can review?
The ELT is not a candidate for grounding on the firewall
forest of tabs (POWER STUFF). This is a piece of avionics.
First, when the ELT is mounted in the airplane, is there
any continuity between the power(-) wire that runs forward
and ship's ground? I would hope not but it doesn't hurt to
check. I would plan on grounding this article at the
avionics ground on the panel.
If I use a shielded 20 gauge wire from the GPS down to join the three wire
from the rear, I need to figure out how to connect it to the GPS
designated wire in the three wire bundle. Specifically, how to deal with the
shielding. Should I ground it all at the firewall and somehow solder the shields
from the three wire and single wire together? Should the GPS lead be
grounded both at the firewall and at the GPS ground block?
I could also run a single shielded wire from the GPS to the ELT, power the
ELT from my battery bus and ground the ELT to the fuselage locally. That
would mean the ELT is constantly powered (as opposed to switched). I draws
little power but could conceivably drain a battery over a long period of
time.
Looking for help from the knowledgeable and experienced.
We REALLY need to see the installation documents
before useful recommendations can be crafted.
Bob . . .
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Shield wiring |
At 02:48 PM 8/26/2014, you wrote:
>Hi Bob,
>
>As usual, I appreciate your insights. Looks like this is a little
>more involved than I had originally thought.
>
>My avionics ground is a thirty-seven pin Sub D that I think I got
>from your site. Five wires go from it to the forest of tabs on the
>firewall. All the avionics ground into this. The pins are all used
>so I may have to piggyback into a previously used pin.
>
>The ELT is an ACK E-04. The installation manual is here:
><http://www.ackavionics.com/pdf/E-04_REV_1.7_SINGLE_PAGE_REDUCED.pdf>http://www.ackavionics.com/pdf/E-04_REV_1.7_SINGLE_PAGE_REDUCED.pdf
Man! This is a pretty sorry manual considering all the
$time$ that somebody spent putting it together. There's
lots of data, probably accurate for the most part, but
horribly organized and formatted. On page 15 we find
this statement.
Emacs!
The IMPORTANT item is 26 MICROAMPS standby current. This
means that lead is best fed from ship's battery bus. It
also says 1.4A average for 406 burst mode which has to be
bogus. It's got to be 1.4 amps for DURATION OF BURST with
something much lower between bursts. What's notably missing
is the ENERGY loading on this wire . . . which presumes that
the ELT's internal battery is depleted. Elsewhere we see
a "40 mA" tag on that wire . . . which may be the current
draw between bursts.
The RS232 "SEND TEST LINE" appears to be used only as
a LED driver to register acknowledgement of a GPS data
string on the "RECEIVE" line. I'd wire a resistor/LED into the
system permanently as opposed to the temporary jig
illustrated. This would function much as the REPLY
light on a transponder . . . a general tell-tale on the
systems operational state.
The power(-) lead should go to your avionics ground
Power(+) to the battery bus . . . use a 3A fuse.
RS232 RECEIVE connects to the RS232 SEND line
of your GPS receiver.
Bob . . .
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Shield wiring |
Thanks Bob,
You are the best.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8
Livermore, CA
In a message dated 8/26/2014 1:59:33 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com writes:
At 02:48 PM 8/26/2014, you wrote:
Hi Bob,
As usual, I appreciate your insights. Looks like this is a little more
involved than I had originally thought.
My avionics ground is a thirty-seven pin Sub D that I think I got from
your site. Five wires go from it to the forest of tabs on the firewall. All
the avionics ground into this. The pins are all used so I may have to
piggyback into a previously used pin.
The ELT is an ACK E-04. The installation manual is here:
http://www.ackavionics.com/pdf/E-04_REV_1.7_SINGLE_PAGE_REDUCED.pdf
Man! This is a pretty sorry manual considering all the
$time$ that somebody spent putting it together. There's
lots of data, probably accurate for the most part, but
horribly organized and formatted. On page 15 we find
this statement.
The IMPORTANT item is 26 MICROAMPS standby current. This
means that lead is best fed from ship's battery bus. It
also says 1.4A average for 406 burst mode which has to be
bogus. It's got to be 1.4 amps for DURATION OF BURST with
something much lower between bursts. What's notably missing
is the ENERGY loading on this wire . . . which presumes that
the ELT's internal battery is depleted. Elsewhere we see
a "40 mA" tag on that wire . . . which may be the current
draw between bursts.
The RS232 "SEND TEST LINE" appears to be used only as
a LED driver to register acknowledgement of a GPS data
string on the "RECEIVE" line. I'd wire a resistor/LED into the
system permanently as opposed to the temporary jig
illustrated. This would function much as the REPLY
light on a transponder . . . a general tell-tale on the
systems operational state.
The power(-) lead should go to your avionics ground
Power(+) to the battery bus . . . use a 3A fuse.
RS232 RECEIVE connects to the RS232 SEND line
of your GPS receiver.
Bob . . .
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Shield wiring |
Quoted from below
"Power(+) to the battery bus . . . use a 3A fuse."
I don't think you want the power to this ELT wired to the battery bus.
The recommended 3 month test requires the power to the ELT to be off. We
used to get emails from SAR in Canada confirming satellite reception for
those 3 month tests but I'm always careful to make sure my master (power
to the ELT) is off when I test.
I picked this ELT specifically because it uses aircraft power to
pre-process gps position and have the position instantly available if
the unit is activated. It is news to me if aircraft power is also
available to supplement battery power for transmissions.
Ken
On 26/08/2014 4:57 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> At 02:48 PM 8/26/2014, you wrote:
>> Hi Bob,
>>
>> As usual, I appreciate your insights. Looks like this is a little
>> more involved than I had originally thought.
>>
>> My avionics ground is a thirty-seven pin Sub D that I think I got from
>> your site. Five wires go from it to the forest of tabs on the
>> firewall. All the avionics ground into this. The pins are all used
>> so I may have to piggyback into a previously used pin.
>>
>> The ELT is an ACK E-04. The installation manual is here:
>> http://www.ackavionics.com/pdf/E-04_REV_1.7_SINGLE_PAGE_REDUCED.pdf
>
> Man! This is a pretty sorry manual considering all the
> $time$ that somebody spent putting it together. There's
> lots of data, probably accurate for the most part, but
> horribly organized and formatted. On page 15 we find
> this statement.
>
> Emacs!
>
> The IMPORTANT item is 26 MICROAMPS standby current. This
> means that lead is best fed from ship's battery bus. It
> also says 1.4A average for 406 burst mode which has to be
> bogus. It's got to be 1.4 amps for DURATION OF BURST with
> something much lower between bursts. What's notably missing
> is the ENERGY loading on this wire . . . which presumes that
> the ELT's internal battery is depleted. Elsewhere we see
> a "40 mA" tag on that wire . . . which may be the current
> draw between bursts.
>
> The RS232 "SEND TEST LINE" appears to be used only as
> a LED driver to register acknowledgement of a GPS data
> string on the "RECEIVE" line. I'd wire a resistor/LED into the
> system permanently as opposed to the temporary jig
> illustrated. This would function much as the REPLY
> light on a transponder . . . a general tell-tale on the
> systems operational state.
>
> The power(-) lead should go to your avionics ground
>
> Power(+) to the battery bus . . . use a 3A fuse.
>
> RS232 RECEIVE connects to the RS232 SEND line
> of your GPS receiver.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hi OC, Price Gill or Concord and the PC 680 is Cheap :-)
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Owen
Baker
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2014 5:33 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: PC 680 Purchase
8/26/2014
Hello Fellow Listers, Please tell me (and other readers) why I should pay
more for an Odyssey PC 680 battery for my EAB airplane rather than a less
expensive battery that "may" be "just as good".
http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html
Thanks,
OC
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection
is active.
http://www.avast.com
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Z-19 Function |
All Van's RV-12 E-LSA and S-LSA aircraft have two fuel pumps that run continuously.
There is no fuel pump switch to forget to turn on. After turning on the
master, the fuel pressure is noted with just the electric pump running. After
engine start, the pilot notes the fuel pressure increase with the mechanical
engine driven pump also operating.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429398#429398
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: LED PWM dimmer switch |
Andy,
I had similar issues with an LED dimmer I purchased from Perihelion
Design. When I explained the difficulty with the unit to Eric, he
redesigned the dimmer to provide better dimming. I suggest you go to
periheliondesign.com and check out Eric=92s LED dimmer. It works great.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (50 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Aug 26, 2014, at 11:05 AM, Andy <crabandy@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> I have a Kick Kr6 PWM dimmer
http://www.kicklighting.com/PWM-dimmer-switch-for-LED.htm
>> powering an LED light strip like this one
http://www.ledsupply.com/led-strips/led-flex-strip-neutral-white
Mounted under my glade shield for flood lighting.
>> Problem is even on the lowest setting per say, the LED strip is too
bright for night flying. 1 option is cut the strip down to only 1 LED,
option 2 figure out how to possibly lower the amperage prior to the PWM
dimmer to give it a smaller range of amperages to dim with. I like
option 2 but not sure how to do it.
>> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Aug 26, 2014, at 11:59 AM, Andy <crabandy@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi,
>> I have a Kick Kr6 PWM dimmer (
>> powering an LED light strip like this one. Mounted under my glade
shield for flood lighting.
>> Problem is even on the lowest setting per say, the LED strip is too
bright for night flying. 1 option is cut the strip down to only 1 LED,
option 2 figure out how to possibly lower the amperage prior to the PWM
dimmer to give it a smaller range of amperages to dim with. I like
option 2 but not sure how to do it.
>> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: LED PWM dimmer switch |
Thanks Robert!
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 26, 2014, at 9:52 PM, Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com> wrote:
>
> Andy,
>
> I had similar issues with an LED dimmer I purchased from Perihelion Design
. When I explained the difficulty with the unit to Eric, he redesigned the d
immer to provide better dimming. I suggest you go to periheliondesign.com a
nd check out Eric=99s LED dimmer. It works great.
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (50 hrs).
> Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117
> rlborger@mac.com
>
>> On Aug 26, 2014, at 11:05 AM, Andy <crabandy@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Hi,
>>> I have a Kick Kr6 PWM dimmer http://www.kicklighting.com/PWM-dimmer-swit
ch-for-LED.htm
>>> powering an LED light strip like this one http://www.ledsupply.com/led-s
trips/led-flex-strip-neutral-white Mounted under my glade shield for flood l
ighting.
>>> Problem is even on the lowest setting per say, the LED strip is too brig
ht for night flying. 1 option is cut the strip down to only 1 LED, option 2 f
igure out how to possibly lower the amperage prior to the PWM dimmer to give
it a smaller range of amperages to dim with. I like option 2 but not sure h
ow to do it.
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Aug 26, 2014, at 11:59 AM, Andy <crabandy@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>> I have a Kick Kr6 PWM dimmer (
>>> powering an LED light strip like this one. Mounted under my glade shi
eld for flood lighting.
>>> Problem is even on the lowest setting per say, the LED strip is too brig
ht for night flying. 1 option is cut the strip down to only 1 LED, option 2 f
igure out how to possibly lower the amperage prior to the PWM dimmer to give
it a smaller range of amperages to dim with. I like option 2 but not sure h
ow to do it.
>>> Sent from my - The --> http://www.m &n -
&nbs --> http://www.matronics.com/co=====
===========
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|