AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Mon 06/08/15


Total Messages Posted: 18



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:31 AM - Re: D-Sub connector use (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     2. 05:59 AM - Re: LED Light for SD-8 On Indication (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     3. 07:16 AM - Re: D-Sub connector use (Ken Ryan)
     4. 07:27 AM - d-sub spin out (Ken Ryan)
     5. 07:48 AM - Re: Re: LED Light for SD-8 On Indication (Ross Home)
     6. 08:19 AM - Re: d-sub spin out (ARGOLDMAN@aol.com)
     7. 08:26 AM - Re: D-Sub connector use (ARGOLDMAN@aol.com)
     8. 08:26 AM - Re: LED Light for SD-8 On Indication (Ross Home)
     9. 08:52 AM - Re: power supply for testing (D F)
    10. 10:11 AM - Electrical system planning (Jump4way)
    11. 10:38 AM - Re: Electrical system planning (Ross Home)
    12. 10:58 AM - Re: Electrical system planning (Jump4way)
    13. 11:01 AM - Re: Electrical system planning (Charlie England)
    14. 11:03 AM - Internal Shorting of Batteries (Lyle Peterson)
    15. 05:34 PM - AEC9001-1 Diode (Justin Jones)
    16. 07:18 PM - Re: Lighted Toggle Switch recommendation (rayj)
    17. 08:27 PM - My old float charger died what is the modern recommended replacement? (Joe Motis)
    18. 10:13 PM - Re: My old float charger died what is the modern recommended replacement? (Jim Kale)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:31:53 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: D-Sub connector use
    At 07:56 PM 6/7/2015, you wrote: >My left wing contains my Dynon ADAHRS module, which is normally >connected to the Skyview Network using a D-Sub 9 connector. The wing >also has an Aveo LED light that has 4 wires (nav power, strobe >power, ground, snynchronization). The nav light draws 0.6 amps and >the strobe draws 3.2 amps (peak). > >Wire sizes are 22 gauge for the ADAHRS and strobe sync wire, and 20 >gauge for the strobe power, nav power and ground. > >I want a connector at the wing root to facilitate wing folding (or >removal). Can I use a D-Sub 15 connector for this purpose. I hope so >because I already spent the day completing it. > The D-sub is rated for the voltages and currents in your application . . . and the lowly d-connectors have cousins qualified for space travel . . . but they're still a 'non-environmental' connector. This means that while they are electrically capable by virtue of the pins and sockets, they are vulnerable to the effects of moisture, dust, mud, oil, etc. It's a low-risk experiment. There are no hazards to airframe or crew associated with loss of function . . . and there's a high probability of long and satisfactory service. But be aware and keep an eye on it. Bob . . .


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:59:22 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: LED Light for SD-8 On Indication
    At 07:54 PM 6/7/2015, you wrote: I wanted to install an LED "ON" indicator light for when I switch on the SD-8 alternate power supply. I rigged an LED so it works with the 12 Volt system and tried it on the switch which goes to ground for ON. It works fine when it is the only thing on the switch. When I hook up the SD-8 relay to it ( as wired for the original Z-8 diagram with NO self excite) which is also a switch to ground for on, the LED lights up even in the off position. Since the LED ground and SD-8 relay ground share the same terminal, my only explanation is that the LED is finding a ground somewhere along the SD-8 relay pathway. I have stared at the drawing until my eyes are crossed and can't figure out what's happening. If I am interpreting your narrative correctly, then for some reason, there is a 'sneak path' to ground with the switch open. One fix for this phenomenon is to add a diode in the relay control lead that breaks sneak-path to ground looking at the relay. Emacs! The 64 dollar question is where the sneak-path is coming from. As shown, I too am unable to identify the problem . . . UNLESS . . . your SD-8 is not tied to the always-hot side of the battery but instead tied to the switched side and is finding a sneak path through the system components on the main bus. Bob . . .


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:16:29 AM PST US
    From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: D-Sub connector use
    Thanks Bob. I think the location will be dry. On Mon, Jun 8, 2015 at 4:29 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 07:56 PM 6/7/2015, you wrote: > > My left wing contains my Dynon ADAHRS module, which is normally connected > to the Skyview Network using a D-Sub 9 connector. The wing also has an Aveo > LED light that has 4 wires (nav power, strobe power, ground, > snynchronization). The nav light draws 0.6 amps and the strobe draws 3.2 > amps (peak). > > Wire sizes are 22 gauge for the ADAHRS and strobe sync wire, and 20 gauge > for the strobe power, nav power and ground. > > I want a connector at the wing root to facilitate wing folding (or > removal). Can I use a D-Sub 15 connector for this purpose. I hope so > because I already spent the day completing it. > > > The D-sub is rated for the voltages and > currents in your application . . . and > the lowly d-connectors have cousins qualified > for space travel . . . but they're still > a 'non-environmental' connector. This > means that while they are electrically > capable by virtue of the pins and sockets, > they are vulnerable to the effects of moisture, > dust, mud, oil, etc. > > It's a low-risk experiment. There are > no hazards to airframe or crew associated > with loss of function . . . and there's > a high probability of long and satisfactory > service. But be aware and keep an eye on it. > > > Bob . . . > > * > > > * > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:27:48 AM PST US
    From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska@gmail.com>
    Subject: d-sub spin out
    Yesterday I was disconnecting the D-Sub 9 cable from my Dynon ADAHRS so that I could double check that I had the correct wires going to the D-Sub 15 on the other end. When I unscrewed the long screws that are part of the back shell, I noticed that one of the nuts on the ADAHRS box was turning. This was not a big problem, because the wing is still open and I was able to grab it with pliers which allowed me to remove the connector. But once the wing is buttoned up, it would be very difficult to repeat the process. The only solution I can think of is a special inspection opening, just to address this fault. Also, I don't know if that turning nut represents any other hazard, like something coming loose in flight and shorting out my ADAHRS. Any advice would be appreciated.


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:48:45 AM PST US
    From: "Ross Home" <rossmickey@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: LED Light for SD-8 On Indication
    I followed an article Jim Weir wrote back in 2000 for Kitplanes. http://www.rst-engr.com/kitplanes/KP0009A/KPtext.doc http://www.rst-engr.com/kitplanes/KP0009A/KP0009A.htm I know the switch is not leaking because the light works as intended when it is hooked up to the switch by itself. It is only when I connect the wire that goes to the SD-8 relay that the light turns on apparently finding a ground pathway through that system. Ross -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of user9253 Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2015 8:09 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED Light for SD-8 On Indication Can you attach a drawing of your schematic showing how the LED is wired? I can not visualize how the LED is connected. LEDs require very little current to illuminate. Sometimes a solid state switch (when off) will leak enough current to turn on an LED. A schematic will be very helpful to others who are trying to answer your question. Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443199#443199


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:19:54 AM PST US
    From: ARGOLDMAN@aol.com
    Subject: Re: d-sub spin out
    Greetings, Don't know if it is ever a good idea to "bury anything electronic as given enough time and vibration it will fail--perhaps not in your life time. Additionally, you may want to get it out and in for updates or upgrading. One suggestion is to mount the device directly on the inspection panel covering the opening referred to below. For service, remove the panel with attached device, unplug it and do what needs to be done. In terms of the sub-d fixation problem.. If the device is out of warranty, open the case, use some loctite on the retaining nut, tighten appropriately and close. the screws that hold these things in are generally #6 and this "twirling problem is not unique. If the device is in warranty send it back to dynon and let them deal with it. Rich In a message dated 6/8/2015 10:10:43 A.M. Central Daylight Time, keninalaska@gmail.com writes: Yesterday I was disconnecting the D-Sub 9 cable from my Dynon ADAHRS so that I could double check that I had the correct wires going to the D-Sub 15 on the other end. When I unscrewed the long screws that are part of the back shell, I noticed that one of the nuts on the ADAHRS box was turning. This was not a big problem, because the wing is still open and I was able to grab it with pliers which allowed me to remove the connector. But once the wing is buttoned up, it would be very difficult to repeat the process. The only solution I can think of is a special inspection opening, just to address this fault. Also, I don't know if that turning nut represents any other hazard, like something coming loose in flight and shorting out my ADAHRS. Any advice would be appreciated.


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:26:41 AM PST US
    From: ARGOLDMAN@aol.com
    Subject: Re: D-Sub connector use
    Ken, Even though they are non-environmentally secure, you can do a little to ward off effects of the environment. 1 use good contact pins (gold plated I use AMP) 2. before mating the connectors give them a goober of dielectric grease. This is available through many outlets, probably auto stores, as it is the grease type material that you see on some of the connectors in a car. This stuff keeps out moisture and O2 even though the gold contacts aren't supposed to oxidize. If you use any plug affairs that are not gold-- this stuff is a must (IMNSHO) Rich In a message dated 6/8/2015 10:12:11 A.M. Central Daylight Time, keninalaska@gmail.com writes: Thanks Bob. I think the location will be dry. On Mon, Jun 8, 2015 at 4:29 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <_nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com_ (mailto:nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com) > wrote: At 07:56 PM 6/7/2015, you wrote: My left wing contains my Dynon ADAHRS module, which is normally connected to the Skyview Network using a D-Sub 9 connector. The wing also has an Aveo LED light that has 4 wires (nav power, strobe power, ground, snynchronization). The nav light draws 0.6 amps and the strobe draws 3.2 amps (peak). Wire sizes are 22 gauge for the ADAHRS and strobe sync wire, and 20 gauge for the strobe power, nav power and ground. I want a connector at the wing root to facilitate wing folding (or removal). Can I use a D-Sub 15 connector for this purpose. I hope so because I already spent the day completing it. The D-sub is rated for the voltages and currents in your application . . . and the lowly d-connectors have cousins qualified for space travel . . . but they're still a 'non-environmental' connector. This means that while they are electrically capable by virtue of the pins and sockets, they are vulnerable to the effects of moisture, dust, mud, oil, etc. It's a low-risk experiment. There are no hazards to airframe or crew associated with loss of function . . . and there's a high probability of long and satisfactory service. But be aware and keep an eye on it. Bob . . . ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:26:52 AM PST US
    From: "Ross Home" <rossmickey@comcast.net>
    Subject: LED Light for SD-8 On Indication
    Thanks, Bob. You are interpreting my problem correctly. The relay is connected to the "hot" side of the battery contactor so that is not the problem. I would prefer to find out why this is happening rather than placing a diode but if I do what diode should I use? The only difference between what is shown below and my system is that the 50MV/10A is located between the battery contactor and relay rather than being between the relay and the capacitor as shown in your diagram. I also am wiring the switch so that the ground is on the #2 terminal and the wire to the relay is attached to the #3 terminal. Neither of these things should change how my system is reacting unless the ground is being found through the load meter. I guess I could bypass the shunt and see if that clears up the problem. Ross From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Monday, June 08, 2015 5:58 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: LED Light for SD-8 On Indication If I am interpreting your narrative correctly, then for some reason, there is a 'sneak path' to ground with the switch open. One fix for this phenomenon is to add a diode in the relay control lead that breaks sneak-path to ground looking at the relay. The 64 dollar question is where the sneak-path is coming from. As shown, I too am unable to identify the problem . . . UNLESS . . . your SD-8 is not tied to the always-hot side of the battery but instead tied to the switched side and is finding a sneak path through the system components on the main bus. Bob . . .


    Message 9


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    Time: 08:52:01 AM PST US
    From: D F <dfritzj@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: power supply for testing
    I just use a cheap 12v AGM battery for a UPS or alarm system. Works great, is safe, and I just charge it periodically. Dan


    Message 10


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    Time: 10:11:46 AM PST US
    Subject: Electrical system planning
    From: "Jump4way" <andydelk@gmail.com>
    I'm at the early stages of planning my electrical system. I've got the Aeroelectric connection book and am studying the diagrams to see which would fit my admittedly rough plan. I'm strongly considering the EFII electronic fuel and ignition system. Obviously the electrical system design would be paramount to the success of this system. What is the opinion of the group on the best design idea to follow? The z13-8 with the sd-8 alternator and a single battery? The z19 with dual battery and electronic ignition, or just throw my hands up in the air and pick up the bus manager system that EFII sells? I'm leaning toward the z13-8 but I've got a question on what would happen if a battery were to short internally. Would the alternator or backup alternator continue to supply power to the busses to power the engine electronics? Like I said, early stages here. Any advice is very welcomed. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443235#443235


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:38:10 AM PST US
    From: "Ross Home" <rossmickey@comcast.net>
    Subject: Electrical system planning
    I can't comment on the battery shorting internally other than it is an extremely rare occurrence especially if you follow Bob's advice of replacing your battery on a regular basis. Here is what Bob's says in his latest version of the book. "If I were building an airplane today, my ship would be fitted with Figure Z-13/8 electrical system with an 18 AH battery and dual Emagair ignition systems. I can deduce no other configuration that delivers more value." Ross -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jump4way Sent: Monday, June 08, 2015 10:10 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electrical system planning I'm at the early stages of planning my electrical system. I've got the Aeroelectric connection book and am studying the diagrams to see which would fit my admittedly rough plan. I'm strongly considering the EFII electronic fuel and ignition system. Obviously the electrical system design would be paramount to the success of this system. What is the opinion of the group on the best design idea to follow? The z13-8 with the sd-8 alternator and a single battery? The z19 with dual battery and electronic ignition, or just throw my hands up in the air and pick up the bus manager system that EFII sells? I'm leaning toward the z13-8 but I've got a question on what would happen if a battery were to short internally. Would the alternator or backup alternator continue to supply power to the busses to power the engine electronics? Like I said, early stages here. Any advice is very welcomed. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443235#443235


    Message 12


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    Time: 10:58:46 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Electrical system planning
    From: "Jump4way" <andydelk@gmail.com>
    Thanks for the advice. I'm moving ahead with the Z-13/8 architecture as described by Bob in his book. I do have a question regarding the feeder line from the battery contactor to the main battery buss as well as the feeder to the E-bus. In the RV-8 I'm building, I have the battery mounted aft. I currently have my main power bus, diode, ebus, and one main battery buss mounted forward of the panel with the battery, battery contactor, and one 6 slot battery buss fuse panel mounted near the battery in the aft portion of the fuselage. What I would like to do is tie the forward battery buss fuse panel (8 slots) to the aft battery buss fuse panel to accomodate shorter wire runs for the various devices to be connected. The z-13/8 diagram calls for wire runs of less than 6 inches from the battery contactor to the battery buss as well as from the main battery bus to the ebus relay. Is there a way to safely do what I would like or should I just get a larger main battery buss fuse panel and mount it aft then run each of the devices all the way to the back of the fuselage? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443237#443237


    Message 13


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    Time: 11:01:35 AM PST US
    Subject: Electrical system planning
    From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
    On June 8, 2015 12:36:38 PM CDT, Ross Home <rossmickey@comcast.net> wrote: ><rossmickey@comcast.net> > >I can't comment on the battery shorting internally other than it is an >extremely rare occurrence especially if you follow Bob's advice of >replacing >your battery on a regular basis. > >Here is what Bob's says in his latest version of the book. > >"If I were building an airplane today, my ship would be fitted with >Figure >Z-13/8 electrical system with an 18 AH battery and dual Emagair >ignition >systems. I can deduce no other configuration that delivers more value." > >Ross > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of >Jump4way >Sent: Monday, June 08, 2015 10:10 AM >To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electrical system planning > ><andydelk@gmail.com> > >I'm at the early stages of planning my electrical system. I've got the >Aeroelectric connection book and am studying the diagrams to see which >would >fit my admittedly rough plan. > >I'm strongly considering the EFII electronic fuel and ignition system. >Obviously the electrical system design would be paramount to the >success of >this system. What is the opinion of the group on the best design idea >to >follow? The z13-8 with the sd-8 alternator and a single battery? The >z19 >with dual battery and electronic ignition, or just throw my hands up in >the >air and pick up the bus manager system that EFII sells? > >I'm leaning toward the z13-8 but I've got a question on what would >happen if >a battery were to short internally. Would the alternator or backup >alternator continue to supply power to the busses to power the engine >electronics? > >Like I said, early stages here. Any advice is very welcomed. > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443235#443235 > > Not really applicable; pmags will self power like a mag once the engine is running. Plus the fact that auto style systems like efii use much more current (energy) due to the injection pumps. Charlie -- Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.


    Message 14


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    Time: 11:03:05 AM PST US
    From: Lyle Peterson <lyleap@centurylink.net>
    Subject: Internal Shorting of Batteries
    Hi, I see internal shorting of batteries mentioned often here. I have to assume that the batteries in question are multi-cell lead acid batteries. I am puzzled about how such a battery can and will short internally to the extent that it disables the entire charging system. Does it start with the melt down of one cell that leads to a high current in other cells that subsequently melt down and the end result is that the entire battery becomes one mass of lead? Inquiring minds want to know, Lyle


    Message 15


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    Time: 05:34:07 PM PST US
    From: Justin Jones <jmjones2000@mindspring.com>
    Subject: AEC9001-1 Diode
    Bob, Are these diodes still available? If so, I am interested in purchasing one or two of them. Thanks Justin


    Message 16


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    Time: 07:18:29 PM PST US
    From: rayj <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: Re: Lighted Toggle Switch recommendation
    On the topic of lighted toggles, I'm looking for a lighted toggle that would change colors depending on whether it is on or off. I've never seen one, but I'd be interested in knowing if they're available. Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN The things we admire in men, kindness and generosity, openness, honesty, understanding and feeling are the concomitants of failure in our system. And those traits we detest, sharpness, greed, acquisitiveness, meanness, egotism and self-interest are the traits of success. And while men admire the quality of the first they love the produce of the second. -John Steinbeck, novelist, Nobel laureate (1902-1968) On 06/04/2015 11:21 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > Hari, > > I am using them in my panel - but am not able to find replacements. > Mine were Eaton. > > I know that there are others out there: > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442909#442909 > is an example from Honeywell - don't know where you can get them though. > > If you find them - let us know...and get double the amount of spares you think you will ever need! > > Ralph > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Hariharan Gopalan > > Sent: Jun 4, 2015 12:03 PM > > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Lighted Toggle Switch recommendation > > > Hello Group > Is anyone using lighted toggle switches? Looking for recommendations. > ThanksHari > >


    Message 17


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    Time: 08:27:15 PM PST US
    Subject: My old float charger died what is the modern recommended
    replacement?
    From: Joe Motis <joemotis@gmail.com>
    Hi Listers, Aircraft Spruce frightens and confuses me. Looking for personal use stories especially the don't buy that one! Piper PA-28 12Volt Gill Battery Thanks, Joe


    Message 18


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    Time: 10:13:42 PM PST US
    From: "Jim Kale" <jimkale@roadrunner.com>
    Subject: My old float charger died what is the modern recommended
    replacement? I believe he best ones are the BATTERY MINDER. If all you want to do is light charging and maintaining, they have a 1500 model for a modest price. If you want to charge then the 2,4,8 amp model is better. My friends report battery life of 6 or 7 years with use of these and I have not heard of any negatives. I use the 1500 for maintenance. I plug it into a timer so that it only charges 1 hour per day. That is plenty for a good battery, and I don't worry about things being left turned on forever in the hangar. -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe Motis Sent: Monday, June 8, 2015 10:26 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: My old float charger died what is the modern recommended replacement? Hi Listers, Aircraft Spruce frightens and confuses me. Looking for personal use stories especially the don't buy that one! Piper PA-28 12Volt Gill Battery Thanks, Joe




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