Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:14 AM - Re: RG400 Splice (donjohnston)
2. 04:19 AM - Re: crimping question ()
3. 06:11 AM - Re: Re: RG400 Splice (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:18 AM - Re: crimping question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 09:04 AM - Re: Contactor or master switch problem? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 09:33 AM - Re: crimping question (blues750)
7. 12:07 PM - Re: Contactor or master switch problem? (Sheldon Olesen)
8. 02:27 PM - Re: Contactor or master switch problem? (Sheldon Olesen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RG400 Splice |
Those videos are great.
This is what prompted my statement.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_8n2Qgguto
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445641#445641
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: crimping question |
I think it depends on the type/size of wire and type/size of fastener. A better
solution might be ring type fasteners on a post
---- blues750 <den_beaulieu@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Best practices or caveats? When needing to put multiple wires to a single Faston
type connector... do you butt splice multiple wires then use single lead to
Faston spade or bring multiple wires into the Faston female connector and crimp?
>
> Thanks for indulging me...
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445622#445622
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RG400 Splice |
At 06:56 PM 8/5/2015, you wrote:
>
>
> > You're saying the signal is carried by the thing that is not
> supposed to conduct electricity? Don Johnson
>
>
>The signal (which is obviously the important stuff) is DRIVEN by the
>"wave guide" which is the metal parts, but transmitted inside the
>wave guide...which is the insulation. It turns out that the wave
>velocity is exactly the same as the speed of light inside the
>insulating material-- Vacuum, Teflon or PE for example.
There is no parallel between coaxial transmission
lines and waveguide.
Transmission lines are metallic conductors with
predictable surge impedance and velocity factor
that is constant with frequency.
Waveguides are as their name suggests, pipes
for the conduct of electromagnetic energy,
a constriction of free space that allows one
to direct the energy from the antenna (a little
radiator at one end of the 'pipe' over some
distance and around corners before it is launched
into free space . . . usually at the focal point of
some reflective dish.
A wave traversing the length of a guide literally
reflects from wall-to-wall and in a manner that
is influenced by the size and shape of the guide
with respect to the operating frequency. Waveguide
also exhibits a 'velocity factor' which is a function
size and operating frequency. As one squirts energy
down a wave guide in lower frequencies, the velocity
factor increases until at some lower limit (cutoff
frequency) the velocity factor is for all practical
purposes infinite and no energy makes it down the
pipe.
Coax cable exhibits no such characteristic in
that it's a conductor constrained within a die-electric
and waveguide is a simple constriction of free space.
Losses in waveguide and coax are separate operators.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: crimping question |
At 03:25 PM 8/5/2015, you wrote:
>
>Best practices or caveats? When needing to put multiple wires to a
>single Faston type connector... do you butt splice multiple wires
>then use single lead to Faston spade or bring multiple wires into
>the Faston female connector and crimp?
>
>Thanks for indulging me...
See http://tinyurl.com/l67uj8h
The practical limits for multiple wires into single
joints are driven by TOTAL cross section of copper
in the wire-grip must be within the terminal's
design limits. TOTAL cross section of insulation
in cannot exceed terminal design limits but ther
is a lot of leeway there. Some tools feature
user adjustments to the insulation-grip dies
to accommodate a range of volumes.
http://tinyurl.com/93yweyd
Finally, TOTAL current through the pathway's
highest resistance MIGHT be a factor for
temperature rise in the conductor . . . but
this is rarely a concern.
It matters not what kind of device is accepting
multiple wires, they're all constrained by the
same factors.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Contactor or master switch problem? |
At 04:10 PM 8/2/2015, you wrote:
><saolesen@sirentel.net>
>
>I have been having some starting and electrical issues which I think
>may involve the master switch or the battery contactor.
>
>My son and I were going out flying one day last week, had
>preflighted the plane, and after we pulled the plane from the hanger
>we switched on the master switch. The electronics came on briefly
>and then faded away. There was no power for the starter. I thought
>that was odd because the plane normally has charger attached while
>in the hanger. The Odyssey specific charger indicated the battery
>was charged. After a quick trip home to find a volt meter we tested
>the voltage which was 13+v. We had the charger on while we gone so
>the reading was skewed because of that. We pulled the plane out and
>the electronics and starter worked normally.\
The legacy "beer-barrel" contactors are
large area, low pressure switching devices.
Emacs!
http://tinyurl.com/5uh3b8
The highest risk for failure is corrosion
since these are not a sealed device and
the contacts are pure . . . or nearly pure
copper.
http://tinyurl.com/pw342c3
We've had discussions like this on the List
for decades . . . invariably, the conversations
morph into reliability discussions wherein
there is no distinction made between "system
reliability" (relative criticality and risks
imposed by failure) and "service life" (the
critter has simply used up all it's nine lives).
This style of contactor is the LEAST expensive
product suited to our task but as such, it can
be expected to have a shorter service life than
say a hermetically sealed, $high$ contactor.
As I've suggested for years, your decisions
need to be tempered with trade offs for
cost of ownership, impacts on system performance
and risks associated with failure to perform.
Obviously, for the time any of us expect to
own and operate a single-engine, light aircraft,
the cost-of-ownership question is a no-brainer.
The $24 contactor
http://tinyurl.com/nzern26
Is guaranteed to offer a lower cost per
flight-hour than these oft recommened
upgrades . . .
Tyco EV200 . . . which is a bit 'noisy'
http://tinyurl.com/qyexahd
http://tinyurl.com/p2uwagu
or a Gigavac GX-11 noise free . . .
http://tinyurl.com/qa9m9ne
http://tinyurl.com/pdknjb2
How about performance? Hmmm . . . they
have few differences to offer in terms of
weight savings or fuel consumption. They
either work . . . or not.
Okay, how about risk? There's a constellation
of reasons why a contactor may fail to
perform including wiring and control switches.
Prudent failure mode effects analysis dictates
that we ASSUME the contactor is going to fail,
irrespective of it's pedigree or price.
That thinking is what prompted the creation
of the E-bus many years ago and the two-layered,
three energy sourced architecture illustrated
in Figure Z-13/8
http://tinyurl.com/kgg8nva
Once you're homework is done, the loss of
ANY contactor is at worst an inconvenience
on the order of having a flat tire or having
lots of bird-poop to clean off the airplane
before you can go flying. Risks to airframe
and occupants are zero.
The key to comfortable flight in a complex
machine is a three-legged stool.
1. absolute reliability (wing spars, prop bolts,
well maintained batteries, etc)
2. failure tolerance (e-bus, two alternators)
3. understanding of how any failure critical
to comfortable termination of flight will
manifest and crafting a plan-b to deal with
it. See:
http://tinyurl.com/kqo7jx8
http://tinyurl.com/lrjlhhq
I owned an airport back about 1989. Had
occasion to replace two beer-barrel contactors
in the rental fleet in six months . . . both had
been in service for many years. They only
cost about $18 back then. It was less time consuming
to replace the contactors than to get the bird-poop
off an airplane that had been sitting a pole-barn
hangars for a few weeks.
Then there is the ultimate fall-back position:
Whether flying the J-3 or an A-36 with all the
goodies, this collection of stuff in my flight
bag has a 99.9 probability of getting me where
I want to go even if the whole panel is dark.
http://tinyurl.com/ok7sjzt
Just make sure the batteries are all FRESH.
I put new cells in at the beginning of every
long x-c flight . . . they're cheap.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: crimping question |
Thanks so very much for the replies and links...I have a sense on how to proceed
now. This forum is an amazing asset to have available!!
Dave
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445650#445650
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Contactor or master switch problem? |
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Contactor or master switch problem? |
Why the content was lost on the previous submission, I don't know. Here it is
again hopefully with the content intact.
Thanks to all who replied to my battery contactor --master switch problem.
I checked the wiring for security as suggested and found that the positive battery
terminal was a little loose. It wasn't floppy loose, but just loose enough
so that the ring terminal could be pushed around by moderate finger pressure.
Whether that was enough to cause the problems I experienced, I don't know.
For peace of mind, I also swapped out the contactor. I flew the plane this
morning with no issues with the starter or panel, so I think the problem is solved.
Thanks again for all the help,
Sheldon Olesen
Do not archive
Sent from my iPad
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