Today's Message Index:
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1. 09:07 AM - Re: US 240v to power EU 240v machine? (jonlaury)
2. 09:48 AM - =?utf-8?Q?Re:__Re:_US_240v_to_power_EU_240v_machine=3F? ()
3. 11:22 AM - Bouncing ammeter question (Dennis A Glaeser)
4. 12:12 PM - Re: Bouncing ammeter question (ARGOLDMAN@aol.com)
5. 01:06 PM - Re: US 240v to power EU 240v machine? (Peter Pengilly)
6. 01:21 PM - Re: Bouncing ammeter question (user9253)
7. 02:16 PM - Re: Bouncing ammeter question (Jim Baker)
8. 04:05 PM - Re: Radio battery voltage? (Ron Burnett)
9. 04:22 PM - Re: Bouncing ammeter question (Deems Herring)
10. 05:05 PM - Re: Bouncing ammeter question (A R Goldman)
11. 06:26 PM - Wig-wag alternator (Jim Baker)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: US 240v to power EU 240v machine? |
WOW!
>From the response to my rather pedestrian dilemma, and with no competing posts,
it sounds like there's a bunch of Aerolectric List junkies needing a fix ! :D
Big THANKS! to all.
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=448087#448087
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Subject: | Re: Q?Re:_AeroElectric-List:_Re:_US_240v_to_power_EU_240v_machine=3F? |
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Message 3
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Subject: | Bouncing ammeter question |
Bob, et.al.,
One of my students bought an AA-1 Yankee which has an 'interesting' issue.
The ammeter needle bounces constantly - has done so since he bought it.
Yesterday when flying I noticed that the backlighting on the LCD radio disp
lay, and the instrument post lights flicker in time with the bouncing needl
e (had to look close to see the flicker in the post lights). No other symp
toms that I have noticed.
I figured it was a VR issue. He recently had a new VR installed, due to a
battery charging issue, and the bouncing is still there. The A&P did volta
ge testing (don't know exactly what) and reported everything works as expec
ted (except for the bouncing needle).
So my questions are:
What can cause that?
What can we look at for further diagnosis?
Thanks,
Dennis Glaeser
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nless a specific statement to the contrary is included in this message.
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mputer.
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Bouncing ammeter question |
Just guessing, however
I seem to remember my Yankee years ago (AA-1 clipper) had an incandescen
t
pulsating beacon on the tip of the rudder. Could it be that this is
creating a pulsating drain which you are seeing as a periodic fluctuation
in bus
voltage? Electrically, the aircraft is quite basic. Originally it was
supplied with a Narco MK 12 with the tube/power supply unit located in,
if I
remember correctly, way aft in the tail cone. The clipper had a gyro inst
rument
panel. I actually got my instrument rating in it in 1969.
check the draw of the beacon.
Rich
In a message dated 10/19/2015 1:23:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
dennis.glaeser@gm.com writes:
Bob, et.al.,
One of my students bought an AA-1 Yankee which has an =98interestin
g=99
issue.
The ammeter needle bounces constantly =93 has done so since he boug
ht it.
Yesterday when flying I noticed that the backlighting on the LCD radio
display, and the instrument post lights flicker in time with the bouncing
needle (had to look close to see the flicker in the post lights). No oth
er
symptoms that I have noticed.
I figured it was a VR issue. He recently had a new VR installed, due to
a
battery charging issue, and the bouncing is still there. The A&P did
voltage testing (don=99t know exactly what) and reported everything
works as
expected (except for the bouncing needle).
So my questions are:
What can cause that?
What can we look at for further diagnosis?
Thanks,
Dennis Glaeser
Nothing in this message is intended to constitute an electronic signature
unless a specific statement to the contrary is included in this message.
Confidentiality Note: This message is intended only for the person or
entity to which it is addressed. It may contain confidential and/or privi
leged
material. Any review, transmission, dissemination or other use, or taking
of any action in reliance upon this message by persons or entities other
than the intended recipient is prohibited and may be unlawful. If you rec
eived
this message in error, please contact the sender and delete it from your
computer.
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Message 5
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Subject: | Re: US 240v to power EU 240v machine? |
> Also depending on the iron content 60 cycle motors may tend to
overheat on 50 cycle.
That's interesting, I bought a large 240v compressor when I lived in the
US. Now trying to run it in the UK it keeps overheating and popping the
thermal cut-out. I guess a new motor is on the cards...
Peter
Do not archive
On 18/10/2015 23:53, Bob McCallum wrote:
>
> The original question was for the "simplest" way to operate the UK device on
> a North American power system. The "Simplest" way is what I described. No
> transformer is required. A 240 volt device is a 240 volt device no matter
> which side of the ocean it resides on. In the UK (or Europe) 240 volt single
> phase devices are connected between a "hot" line and a "neutral" (grounded)
> line. In North America that same 240 volt single phase device would be
> connected between the two live line connections (L1, L2, as you've
> described) and not connected to the "neutral" (grounded) connection. In
> either case the actual "ground" (earth) connection would be made as usual.
>
> My original description in no way suggested connecting together the two
> "line" connections creating a direct short as you seem to have interpreted.
> Maybe I should have said "Connect your two North American 240 volt hot lines
> to the "line" and
> "neutral" RESPECTIVLY of the British plug and ground to ground of course and
> you're good
> to go" to make it clearer.
>
> If that British supply cord were cut open you would find a Brown conductor
> which you would connect to L1 of the North American system, a blue conductor
> which you would connect to L2, and a green/yellow striped conductor which
> you would connect to ground. (green or bare in the American system).
>
> The transformer connections you describe are correct and would work, but the
> transformer is not necessary. Simply connect directly to the 240 lines plus
> ground.
>
> The only slight difference, as someone else pointed out, is frequency, which
> in North America is 60 Hertz and most of the rest of the planet 50 hertz.
> This will make a difference in the speed of motors which will be faster on
> 60 and slower on 50. Also depending on the iron content 60 cycle motors may
> tend to overheat on 50 cycle.
>
> Respectfully
> Bob McC
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Putney
>> Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2015 5:22 PM
>> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: US 240v to power EU 240v machine?
>>
>>
>> Ouch! So, in the U.S. on single phase services, the usual arrangement is
>> 120V (L1) -neutral-120V (L2) and a separate protective ground that is
>> tied to neutral at the load panel. A 240V to 240V isolation transformer
>> can be used to make the connection you need. On the U.S. side, L1 and L2
>> are connected to the transformer's primary and on the U.K. side connect
>> one leg of the transformer to neutral and one leg to 240V hot. Pass the
>> protective ground through.
>>
>> If you connect the L1 and L2 of the U.S. system together you will make a
>> lot of sparks and pop the circuit breaker! L1 and L2 are 2 120V legs
>> 180 out of phase. Don't connect them!
>>
>> For just a 150W device I think you'll find an "International Step-up
>> Transformer" is probably the simplest solution. Forget the U.S. 240V
>> circuit all together. For $35 on Amazon I don't think you can buy all
>> the connectors and stuff you need to build a solution for that price.
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/Dynastar-Converter-Transformer-Lifetime-5-Year-
>> Warranty/dp/B00KAJ8KG2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1445203102&sr=8-
>> 6&keywords=international+transformer
>>
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> On 10/18/15 13:09, Bob McCallum wrote:
>> <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
>>> The plug you've pictured is actually "British Standard" not EU, but
> simply
>>> connect your two North American 240 volt hot lines to the "line" and
>>> "neutral" of the British plug and ground to ground of course and you're
> good
>>> to go. (Ignore/don't connect, the North American neutral.) As someone
> else
>>> mentioned if this is a permanent conversion, cut off the British plug,
>>> attach a NEMA 6-15 North American plug http://tinyurl.com/nfrrzrx the
>>> matching receptacle such as this http://tinyurl.com/pags86c , and you're
>>> set.
>>>
>>> If you don't wish to modify the existing plug, here's the matching
> British
>>> receptacle. http://tinyurl.com/qcqqd9p
>>> By the way the British plugs are internally fused @ 13 Amps so the
> concern
>>> for connecting to a North American dryer or stove circuit is minimal as
> long
>>> as you retain the existing plug. (you can actually see the fuse in your
>>> photo)
>>>
>>> Bob McC
>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
>>>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jonlaury
>>>> Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2015 2:45 PM
>>>> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: US 240v to power EU 240v machine?
>>>>
> <jonlaury@impulse.net>
>>>> During the lull in aerolectric posts...
>>>>
>>>> What's the simplest way to use US 240v to power a EU 240v @ 150w
> machine.
>>> The EU
>>>> machine uses a single hot leg, neutral and ground through the plug in
> the
>>> picture
>>>> attached.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=448050#448050
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Attachments:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03159_small_173.jpg
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Bouncing ammeter question |
There could be an intermittent bad connection in the alternator field circuit.
The alternator field switch is a common problem as is the alternator connector.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=448100#448100
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Subject: | Re: Bouncing ammeter question |
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SDAwMm5hbWNvcnBnbWNfLS0KCgoKCg=
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Radio battery voltage? |
Thanks to all for explaining my battery challenge. I have followed the suggestion
of keeping the backup battery in the glove box.
Ron Burnett
Sent from my iPad
May you have the blessings of the Lord today.
> On Sep 14, 2015, at 9:05 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>> On 9/14/2015 7:53 PM, Ron Burnett wrote:
>>
>> I have a Luscombe and use an ICOM radio/VOR on a Quantum rechargeable battery.
On the radio I also use a 10 cell AA attached battery which measures 16 volts
with new cells in it.
>>
>> My question is does this high battery voltage "trump" my 12.6 rechargeable?
It seems to as my batteries keep needing to be replaced and I rarely need to
charge the rechargeable.
>>
>> Inquiring minds want to know.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Ron Burnett N1131B Luscombe 8A
>> N524RB RV-6A
>
> Are you saying that you're using an Icom portable, with a 10 cell internal battery
pack, and you're supplying 12V to the same portable through its external
power jack?
>
> If so, then 'it depends'. Some portables will charge the internal pack from the
external power jack; some won't. But 12V won't charge a 16V battery pack, in
any case. Some portables actually disconnect the internal battery pack when
powered off the external power jack.
>
> Why not simply remove the battery pack & run off the 12V battery. If you lose
the battery, reinstall the internal pack.
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Bouncing ammeter question |
Is it a 1969 AA-1 Yankee or is it 1A=2C 1B or 1C? The wiring diagrams are s
lightly different depending on the year.Does the needle behavior change whe
n the beacon is turned on or off? The power supply is actually for a top an
d bottom beacon. It normally has a resistor on the unused side.
Deems Herring owner AA-1B N1491R
From: dennis.glaeser@gm.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bouncing ammeter question
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
Bob=2C et.al.=2C=0A
=0A
One of my students bought an AA-1 Yankee which has an =91interesting=92 iss
ue. =0A
=0A
The ammeter needle bounces constantly ' has done so since he bought it.
=0A
=0A
Yesterday when flying I noticed that the backlighting on the LCD radio disp
lay=2C and the instrument post lights flicker in time with the bouncing nee
dle (had to look close to see the flicker in the post lights). No other sy
mptoms that I=0A
have noticed. =0A
I figured it was a VR issue. He recently had a new VR installed=2C due to
a battery charging issue=2C and the bouncing is still there. The A&P did v
oltage testing (don=92t know exactly what) and reported everything works as
expected (except=0A
for the bouncing needle).=0A
So my questions are: =0A
What can cause that? =0A
What can we look at for further diagnosis?=0A
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Bouncing ammeter question |
69 should be the straight AA1. That was the year that I had also. Unless the
N number was changed you can tell the sequence in which it was made. They s
tarted with "56" and then the sequence number. Followed by a letter mine was
"L" and was the 48 th one made. They went to the "a etched designation with
a change in the wing to make it tamer. It was great just the way it was imn
sho
Rich
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 19, 2015, at 6:21 PM, Deems Herring <dsleepy47@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Is it a 1969 AA-1 Yankee or is it 1A, 1B or 1C? The wiring diagrams are sl
ightly different depending on the year.
> Does the needle behavior change when the beacon is turned on or off? The p
ower supply is actually for a top and bottom beacon. It normally has a resis
tor on the unused side.
>
>
> Deems Herring owner AA-1B N1491R
>
> From: dennis.glaeser@gm.com
> To: AeroElectric-List@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bouncing ammeter question
> Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 18:20:27 +0000
>
> Bob, et.al.,
>
>
>
> One of my students bought an AA-1 Yankee which has an =98interesting
=99 issue.
>
> The ammeter needle bounces constantly =93 has done so since he bough
t it.
>
> Yesterday when flying I noticed that the backlighting on the LCD radio dis
play, and the instrument post lights flicker in time with the bouncing needl
e (had to look close to see the flicker in the post lights). No other sympt
oms that I have noticed.
>
> I figured it was a VR issue. He recently had a new VR installed, due to a
battery charging issue, and the bouncing is still there. The A&P did volta
ge testing (don=99t know exactly what) and reported everything works a
s expected (except for the bouncing needle).
>
> So my questions are:
>
> What can cause that?
>
> What can we look at for further diagnosis?
>
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Wig-wag alternator |
Go to the Zeftronics site ( alternator controller ). The problem is probably high
resistance in the field circuit. They have a whole article on the wig-wag issue.
Jim Baker
405 426 5377
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