Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:24 AM - Magneto Toggle Switches (ameyer)
2. 08:52 AM - Re: Magneto Toggle Switches (John B)
3. 09:17 AM - Re: Magneto Toggle Switches (John Tipton)
4. 01:43 PM - Re: New EarthX battery (Ralph E. Capen)
Message 1
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Subject: | Magneto Toggle Switches |
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Magneto Toggle Switches |
Make this easy! Use one switch for the non-impulse mag. After start, turn
the non-impulse mag on.
If you really need to conserve the panel space, use a momentary on toggle
for the left mag/start. Off-On-Start. The key switches have been known to
ground out, and they are complex to wire. They are look goofy. The
airplane industry was attempting to emulate the auto industry...
To check your mags, turn off, (actually ground,) the mag you are not
checking.
This the simplest way! Cost effective!
Actually, one switch for each mag and a separate starter button is the way
to go. Simple to wire. Individual components are cheap and easy to
replace if they ever fail.
On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 8:49 AM, ameyer <ameyer@mil-amax.com> wrote:
> Another reason not to do this is the dynamics of starting... I tend to
> release the starter before the engine reaches idle. You don't want to be
> firing the non impulse mag at rpms below idle. (after you release the
> starter)
> Also, on a failed start, if the non impulse mag catches while the prop
> is still turning, you fire before TDC and will have a kick back.
> Wait until idle before you turn on your non impulse mag. With the push
> key types, you have a small delay, where as with these switches, it'll
> be almost instant. I've got two switches and a push button to start. Put
> a safety over the starter switch. It'll be about as safe as telling so one
> not to push two switches in the same direction at the same time. Or,
> reverse the wiring on the non impulse mag switch... Down to crank,
> middle is mag grounded, and up is mag hot. Then, twist the switches (left
> up, right down) to start, then raise the right mag to turn it on.
>
> Happy Flyin'!
>
> Andy
>
>
> Time: 07:47:45 AM PST US
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Magneto Toggle Switches
> From: Paul Millner <millner@me.com>
>
>
> On 2/5/2016 4:47 PM, user9253 wrote:
> > If I was to use 2 toggle switches (left mag switch would have momentary
> position
> for starter) for my magnetos, how could I wire it so that it would operate
> like a keyed ignition switch, i.e., shut the right mag down during start,
> but
> automatically come online after I release the starter?
>
> Seems like you'd want the starter on the RIGHT mag toggle switch... and
> in the "start" position it grounds the right mag P-lead.
>
> Paul
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452646#452646
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Magneto Toggle Switches |
Wow ---
Sent from my iPad
----x--O--x----
> On 7 Feb 2016, at 03:49 pm, ameyer <ameyer@mil-amax.com> wrote:
>
> Another reason not to do this is the dynamics of starting... I tend to rel
ease the starter before the engine reaches idle. You don't want to be firin
g the non impulse mag at rpms below idle. (after you release the starter)
> Also, on a failed start, if the non impulse mag catches while the prop i
s still turning, you fire before TDC and will have a kick back.
> Wait until idle before you turn on your non impulse mag. With the push ke
y types, you have a small delay, where as with these switches, it'll be a
lmost instant. I've got two switches and a push button to start. Put a saf
ety over the starter switch. It'll be about as safe as telling so one not t
o push two switches in the same direction at the same time. Or, reverse th
e wiring on the non impulse mag switch... Down to crank, middle is mag gro
unded, and up is mag hot. Then, twist the switches (left up, right down) t
o start, then raise the right mag to turn it on.
>
> Happy Flyin'!
>
> Andy
>
>
>
>
>
> Time: 07:47:45 AM PST US
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Magneto Toggle Switches
> From: Paul Millner <millner@me.com>
>
>
>
> On 2/5/2016 4:47 PM, user9253 wrote:
> > If I was to use 2 toggle switches (left mag switch would have momentary p
osition
> for starter) for my magnetos, how could I wire it so that it would operate
> like a keyed ignition switch, i.e., shut the right mag down during start, b
ut
> automatically come online after I release the starter?
>
> Seems like you'd want the starter on the RIGHT mag toggle switch... and
> in the "start" position it grounds the right mag P-lead.
>
> Paul
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452646#452646
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | New EarthX battery |
I threw one full turn to the adjuster on the backup regulator - that did the
trick to get it started.
Next I'll measure the voltage at the battery while things are running so I
can optimize it as indicated below.
I had installed them without checking or adjusting them for the original
PC680 - my AFS3400 showed the voltage at 13.8 with the usual stuff running..
Thanks!
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2016 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: New EarthX battery
At 11:24 AM 1/31/2016, you wrote:
Takes up less space, weighs a lot less and spins the engine like crazy!
Even though I had an Odyssey PC680 previously, I went with the EarthX
ETX900.
Here's my question.:
First startup with the new battery was fine - engine came to life
immediately.
My usual process is to bring the backup alternator (20 amp vacuum pad
mounted) on line first - then the primary.
The backup alternator did not come on line - the primary did when I selected
it.
Is it possible that the new battery tried to take so much power to recharge
after the start sequence that is shredded the coupling?
I haven't pulled it yet so I don't know if that was the failure mode.
What is the setpoint voltage on your standby
alternator? It may be that it's set LOWER
than the voltage delivered by the LiFePo
battery . . . so it 'thinks' everything is
okay and doesn't fails to get the alternator
out of bed.
The higher and flatter discharge curve of
the LiFePo battery may call for an adjustment
of the setup on the stand-by regulators.
I think we used to set those at 13.0 . . .
certainly it needs to be HIGHER than the
battery's delivery voltage . . . the whole
idea behind the standby system is to hold
all of the battery energy in reserve for
approach to landing.
The LiFePo cells just barely begin to accept
a charge at 3.3 volts per cell but will achieve
full charge at 3.4 volts per cell. 4 x 3.4 is
13.6 volts so I think I would set the standby
altenator at 13.8 and the main alternator at
14.2v
Bob . . .
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