Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:53 AM - Re: Re: Switch quality (Michael Lazarowicz)
2. 08:32 AM - Re: Re: Switch quality (Michael Lazarowicz)
3. 08:44 AM - Two Quick Questions (William Hunter)
4. 09:06 AM - Oops. Wrong solder (Art Zemon)
5. 09:08 AM - Re: Two Quick Questions (Robert Borger)
6. 10:04 AM - Re: Oops. Wrong solder (Eric Page)
7. 11:45 AM - Re: Oops. Wrong solder (Charlie England)
8. 12:02 PM - Re: Oops. Wrong solder (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 12:19 PM - Re: Two Quick Questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 12:34 PM - Re: Re: Switch quality (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 12:41 PM - Re: Oops. Wrong solder (Art Zemon)
12. 12:47 PM - Re: Oops. Wrong solder (Art Zemon)
13. 12:55 PM - Check My Work (Art Zemon)
14. 01:57 PM - Re: Check My Work (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 02:17 PM - Re: Check My Work (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 03:55 PM - Re: Check My Work (Art Zemon)
17. 04:14 PM - Re: Two Quick Questions (William Hunter)
18. 08:17 PM - Re: Check My Work (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Switch quality |
Tanks to everyone fore tier input, I did not mean to start a debate over
screw verses fast on tabs. My real issue was with the Manufacturer quality
of the switches. I have a couple of Carling's and eve though they make
screw on terminals the Honeywell just appeared to be better made. IN the
bis=g scheme of things, the cost of the 7 switches are just a tiny drop
compared to what Garmin has removed from my bank account. This is my
first shot at this kind of wiring. My 1946 T-craft has no electrical and
the Old A7 mag switch is a study in bad design all by its self.
Mike
On Sat, Apr 23, 2016 at 11:57 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
wrote:
> ceengland7@gmail.com>
>
> On 4/23/2016 4:37 PM, donjohnston wrote:
>
>> don@velocity-xl.com>
>>
>>
>> ceengland7(at)gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> On 4/23/2016 7:54 AM, Michael Lazarowicz wrote:Seriously, screw
>>> terminals are more likely to come loose than the fast
>>> on tabs,
>>>
>>
>> Then I better replace my wing bolts, landing gear bolts, elevator bolts,
>> cylinder bolts etc., etc., etc.
>>
>> Because they are all attached with threaded connectors.
>>
>> And all the bolts that attach parts that are subject to rotation have
> castle nuts and cotter keys, right?
>
> My original post was intended to be a bit light hearted, but it's not a
> falsehood. Yes, if everything is done properly, screw terminals will be
> secure. But try half installing a blade terminal on its blade, and half
> tightening a screw on a ring terminal. Then see which is more prone to
> loosening when the wires are wiggled. I know none of us who are perfect
> pilots and perfect a/c assemblers would ever make such a mistake, but
> 'stuff happens'.
>
> The real point is that quality blade connectors are plenty good enough for
> aviation use.
>
> Charlie
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Switch quality |
My fat thumb on small phone . not Tanks but thanks.
On Sunday, April 24, 2016, Michael Lazarowicz <tllaz330@gmail.com> wrote:
> Tanks to everyone fore tier input, I did not mean to start a debate over
> screw verses fast on tabs. My real issue was with the Manufacturer quality
> of the switches. I have a couple of Carling's and eve though they make
> screw on terminals the Honeywell just appeared to be better made. IN the
> bis=g scheme of things, the cost of the 7 switches are just a tiny drop
> compared to what Garmin has removed from my bank account. This is my
> first shot at this kind of wiring. My 1946 T-craft has no electrical and
> the Old A7 mag switch is a study in bad design all by its self.
>
> Mike
>
> On Sat, Apr 23, 2016 at 11:57 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','ceengland7@gmail.com');>> wrote:
>
>> ceengland7@gmail.com
>> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','ceengland7@gmail.com');>>
>>
>> On 4/23/2016 4:37 PM, donjohnston wrote:
>>
>>> don@velocity-xl.com
>>> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','don@velocity-xl.com');>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ceengland7(at)gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 4/23/2016 7:54 AM, Michael Lazarowicz wrote:Seriously, screw
>>>> terminals are more likely to come loose than the fast
>>>> on tabs,
>>>>
>>>
>>> Then I better replace my wing bolts, landing gear bolts, elevator bolts,
>>> cylinder bolts etc., etc., etc.
>>>
>>> Because they are all attached with threaded connectors.
>>>
>>> And all the bolts that attach parts that are subject to rotation have
>> castle nuts and cotter keys, right?
>>
>> My original post was intended to be a bit light hearted, but it's not a
>> falsehood. Yes, if everything is done properly, screw terminals will be
>> secure. But try half installing a blade terminal on its blade, and half
>> tightening a screw on a ring terminal. Then see which is more prone to
>> loosening when the wires are wiggled. I know none of us who are perfect
>> pilots and perfect a/c assemblers would ever make such a mistake, but
>> 'stuff happens'.
>>
>> The real point is that quality blade connectors are plenty good enough
>> for aviation use.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Two Quick Questions |
I decided to go with the =9CMaxi fuse=9D method of
protecting the electrical bus feed.
http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-HHX-Maxi-Line-Holder/dp/B000CZ2Z92?ie=UT
F8
<http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-HHX-Maxi-Line-Holder/dp/B000CZ2Z92?ie=U
TF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01>
&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01
I was real surprised by the thickness of this inline fuse case and wire
as it is much bigger in person than on the screen.
What is the best method to splice a 6 AWG wire to a 8 AWG wire?
Also, what is the best method to cut 2 AWG Tefzel cable (and other heavy
duty cable)?
..
Tanks!!!
Bill Hunter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Michael Lazarowicz
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Switch quality
My fat thumb on small phone . not Tanks but thanks.
On Sunday, April 24, 2016, Michael Lazarowicz <tllaz330@gmail.com
<mailto:tllaz330@gmail.com> > wrote:
Tanks to everyone fore tier input, I did not mean to start a debate
over screw verses fast on tabs. My real issue was with the Manufacturer
quality of the switches. I have a couple of Carling's and eve though
they make screw on terminals the Honeywell just appeared to be better
made. IN the bis=g scheme of things, the cost of the 7 switches are
just a tiny drop compared to what Garmin has removed from my bank
account. This is my first shot at this kind of wiring. My 1946 T-craft
has no electrical and the Old A7 mag switch is a study in bad design all
by its self.
Mike
On Sat, Apr 23, 2016 at 11:57 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com
<javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','ceengland7@gmail.com');> > wrote:
<ceengland7@gmail.com
<javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','ceengland7@gmail.com');> >
On 4/23/2016 4:37 PM, donjohnston wrote:
<don@velocity-xl.com
<javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','don@velocity-xl.com');> >
ceengland7(at)gmail.com <http://gmail.com> wrote:
On 4/23/2016 7:54 AM, Michael Lazarowicz wrote:Seriously, screw
terminals are more likely to come loose than the fast
on tabs,
Then I better replace my wing bolts, landing gear bolts, elevator bolts,
cylinder bolts etc., etc., etc.
Because they are all attached with threaded connectors.
And all the bolts that attach parts that are subject to rotation have
castle nuts and cotter keys, right?
My original post was intended to be a bit light hearted, but it's not a
falsehood. Yes, if everything is done properly, screw terminals will be
secure. But try half installing a blade terminal on its blade, and half
tightening a screw on a ring terminal. Then see which is more prone to
loosening when the wires are wiggled. I know none of us who are perfect
pilots and perfect a/c assemblers would ever make such a mistake, but
'stuff happens'.
The real point is that quality blade connectors are plenty good enough
for aviation use.
Charlie
-
Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
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eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
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errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
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Message 4
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Subject: | Oops. Wrong solder |
Folks,
I went over to the local electronics supply store yesterday and bought a
Weller WES51 and some DB-9 connectors and some solder so that I could make
a practice project. The good news is that my practice worked and I ended up
with a good cable and I learned a lot. The bad news is that I had a brain
fart while in the store and bought a pound of Kester 60/40 solder instead
of 63/37. Is this a $38 mistake? Or can I use 63/37 for my plane? I'm
inclined to replace the solder in order to reduce the likelihood of cold
solder joints.
-- Art Z.
--
http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <http://cheerfulcurmudgeon.com/>
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Two Quick Questions |
Bill,
The best tool for cutting fat wire is:
http://www.bandc.aero/heavydutycablecutter.aspx
Not terribly expensive and will easily cut fat wire all day. Might also
try Amazon and see if they have a better price.
Splicing 6 AWG to 8 AWG is a bit more of a chore. Check with companies
like McMaster/Carr ( mcmaster.com ), Grainger ( grainger.com ), Fastenal
( fastenal.com)or even Amazon.com. I=99m sure one or more of them
will have 6 AWG butt splices which can probably be used to connect 6 to
8. Most likely will take a heavy duty crimper though.
Another alternative is:
http://www.bandc.aero/electrical-terminals-splices.aspx
The ring terminals at the bottom for 6 & 8 AWG wire with a suitable
short bolt to connect and lots of heavy shrink to cover.
Again, this will require a heavy duty crimper of some sort.
These are off the top of my head. Others may have better ideas.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Apr 24, 2016, at 10:43 AM, William Hunter
<billhuntersemail@gmail.com> wrote:
I decided to go with the =9CMaxi fuse=9D method of
protecting the electrical bus feed. <>
http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-HHX-Maxi-Line-Holder/dp/B000CZ2Z92?ie=UTF
8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01
<http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-HHX-Maxi-Line-Holder/dp/B000CZ2Z92?ie=UT
F8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01>
I was real surprised by the thickness of this inline fuse case and wire
as it is much bigger in person than on the screen.
What is the best method to splice a 6 AWG wire to a 8 AWG wire?
Also, what is the best method to cut 2 AWG Tefzel cable (and other heavy
duty cable)?
..
Tanks!!!
Bill Hunter
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Oops. Wrong solder |
You did fine. The only thing magic about 63/37 (tin/lead) solder is that it
transitions directly from solid to liquid states (at 183=C2=B0C) without pa
ssing through a plastic state -- a so-called eutectic composition. 60/40 so
lder has a slightly higher melting point (186=C2=B0C) and passes through a b
rief plastic state between solid and liquid. 60/40 has fractionally lower t
ensile strength than 63/37, but for our purposes it makes no difference. Pe
rsonally, I buy whichever is cheaper on the day I'm looking.
Eric
> On Apr 24, 2016, at 9:05 AM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
> The bad news is that I had a brain fart while in the store and bought a po
und of Kester 60/40 solder instead of 63/37. Is this a $38 mistake? Or can I
use 63/37 for my plane? I'm inclined to replace the solder in order to redu
ce the likelihood of cold solder joints.
>
> -- Art Z.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Oops. Wrong solder |
On 4/24/2016 11:05 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I went over to the local electronics supply store yesterday and bought
> a Weller WES51 and some DB-9 connectors and some solder so that I
> could make a practice project. The good news is that my practice
> worked and I ended up with a good cable and I learned a lot. The bad
> news is that I had a brain fart while in the store and bought a pound
> of Kester 60/40 solder instead of 63/37. Is this a $38 mistake? Or can
> I use 63/37 for my plane? I'm inclined to replace the solder in order
> to reduce the likelihood of cold solder joints.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <http://cheerfulcurmudgeon.com/>
>
> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
I was an electronics tech in a couple of previous 'lives', & never had
any problems using 60/40 solder. It's still electronics grade solder.
Just keep the joint stable & let it cool naturally (don't blow on it).
It will still cool quickly so that's not a big deal.
Either will work fine, as long as it's rosin core for electronics work,
and not acid core for plumbing. Not likely that you would have gotten
plumbing solder at an electronics supply house.
BTW, I've enjoyed prowling through your build site. Looking forward to
seeing you fly the BD-4C; I owned an old trigear BD-4 for a while &
might have kept it if it had been a C model (not available back then).
Charlie
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Oops. Wrong solder |
At 11:05 AM 4/24/2016, you wrote:
>Folks,
>
>I went over to the local electronics supply store yesterday and
>bought a Weller WES51 and some DB-9 connectors and some solder so
>that I could make a practice project. The good news is that my
>practice worked and I ended up with a good cable and I learned a
>lot. The bad news is that I had a brain fart while in the store and
>bought a pound of Kester 60/40 solder instead of 63/37. Is this a
>$38 mistake? Or can I use 63/37 for my plane? I'm inclined to
>replace the solder in order to reduce the likelihood of cold solder joints.
That will be just fine . . . there is very little differnce.
Just don't let a wet joint wiggle as it crosses the cooling
fence between molten and solid . . . an this is exceedingly
EASY to do.
I wish you'd hollered about needing some solder. Many
Listers have designs that will install a few components
that use/favor soldered joints. But few OBAM aviation projects
will need more than an ounce of solder . . . except if you're
installing honking terminals on fat wires . . . then you might
need 2-3 ounces of solder.
I've got a lifetime supply (residuals from busier soldering
days) and I'd be pleased to donate project-sized bits of
'the good stuff' to my reader's project.
In any case, 60/40 is what I used for 25 or so years before
I had ready access to a more refined product . . . 60/40 is
okay.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Two Quick Questions |
>
>What is the best method to splice a 6 AWG wire to a 8 AWG wire?
Any sort of manufactured splicing product will
add considerable 'bulk' to the wire. My personal
favorite for a trim joint is to strip about 5/8"
insulation off both ends to be mated. Fan out the
strands on the 6AWG and use a sharp nosed wire
cutter to trim out about 1/3 to 1/2 of its strands.
Fan the strands on the 8AWG then interleave them
into the stands of the larger wire and form the
expanded strands back into a tight bundle.
You can wrap the interleaved strands with some
small wire . . . strip off a chunk of 22AWG
to use the bare wires for 'binding' . . .
then solder the joint. Cover with shrink when
cooled.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Switch quality |
At 10:31 AM 4/24/2016, you wrote:
>My fat thumb on small phone . =C2 not Tanks but thanks.
>
>On Sunday, April 24, 2016, Michael Lazarowicz
><<mailto:tllaz330@gmail.com>tllaz330@gmail.com> wrote:
>Tanks to everyone fore tier input,=C2 I did not
>mean to start a debate over screw verses fast on tabs.
There isn't really a 'debate' . . . it's a 'choice' for
achieving design goals. Different goals call for different
choices. My observations and experience with fast-ons
in general aviation dates back to Cessna's incorporation
of the Carling Rockers in the 60's.
They proved to be an acceptable solution to Cessna's
design goals for a satisfactory yet inexpensive alternative
to the legacy screw-terminal devices which greatly
improved manufacturing labor costs.
I began promoting the fast-on switches and fuse-blocks into
OBAM aviation about 1990 . . . it took hold and I don't
think anyone has looked back. The really cool thing about
a fast-on switch is that you can replace it literally
by feel alone. No itty-bitty short screw with lock washer
and screwdriver slot to thread through a ring terminal
that just won't hold still.
Without a doubt, the Honeywell products are fine
switches that have a history dating back much
further than the transition to fast-ons in the
single engine market. In terms of MTBF,
the Honeywells may well have a greater laboratory
service life that the Carling . . . but when the
average light aircraft switch gets operated perhaps
200 times a year, is your money well spent to get
a switch 'rated' for 30,000 cycles as opposed to
20,000 cycles?
Further, if your design is failure tolerant, then
the switch replacement is a cost-of-ownership as
opposed to a risk issue . . . on that train of
thought, the Carlings with fast-ons are way out front.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Oops. Wrong solder |
Well that's a relief :-) I found a local electronics store (not many of
them left, sadly) and decided to support them rather than buying my stuff
online. I sure didn't realize that an ounce or three would have been
sufficient, though. Ah well....
-- Art Z.
On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 2:00 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 11:05 AM 4/24/2016, you wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> I went over to the local electronics supply store yesterday and bought a
> Weller WES51 and some DB-9 connectors and some solder so that I could make
> a practice project. The good news is that my practice worked and I ended up
> with a good cable and I learned a lot. The bad news is that I had a brain
> fart while in the store and bought a pound of Kester 60/40 solder instead
> of 63/37. Is this a $38 mistake? Or can I use 63/37 for my plane? I'm
> inclined to replace the solder in order to reduce the likelihood of cold
> solder joints.
>
>
> That will be just fine . . . there is very little differnce.
> Just don't let a wet joint wiggle as it crosses the cooling
> fence between molten and solid . . . an this is exceedingly
> EASY to do.
>
> I wish you'd hollered about needing some solder. Many
> Listers have designs that will install a few components
> that use/favor soldered joints. But few OBAM aviation projects
> will need more than an ounce of solder . . . except if you're
> installing honking terminals on fat wires . . . then you might
> need 2-3 ounces of solder.
>
> I've got a lifetime supply (residuals from busier soldering
> days) and I'd be pleased to donate project-sized bits of
> 'the good stuff' to my reader's project.
>
> In any case, 60/40 is what I used for 25 or so years before
> I had ready access to a more refined product . . . 60/40 is
> okay.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
--
http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <http://cheerfulcurmudgeon.com/>
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Oops. Wrong solder |
On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 1:46 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Either will work fine, as long as it's rosin core for electronics work,
> and not acid core for plumbing. Not likely that you would have gotten
> plumbing solder at an electronics supply house.
>
Thank you for the encouragement, Charlie.
> BTW, I've enjoyed prowling through your build site. Looking forward to
> seeing you fly the BD-4C; I owned an old trigear BD-4 for a while & might
> have kept it if it had been a C model (not available back then).
>
You and I are both looking forward to seeming me fly my BD-4C :-D
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
--
http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <http://cheerfulcurmudgeon.com/>
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 13
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|
I found some old dogbone connectors in the basement and have been doing
some practicing. Googling didn't turn up any examples of a well soldered
joint so please give me some feedback. (I did find a YouTube video of
someone teaching soldering... he had a roll of electrical tape!) The wire
is 20 AWG in this sample:
Is that how it should look?
BTW, it is a pure delight to use the WES51. I have never bought anything
better than a $25 soldering pencil for myself. I wish I could have afforded
something like this back when I was in junior high and in high school and
was building lots o' stuff.
Thanks,
-- Art Z.
--
http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <http://cheerfulcurmudgeon.com/>
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Check My Work |
At 02:53 PM 4/24/2016, you wrote:
>I found some old dogbone connectors in the basement and have been
>doing some practicing. Googling didn't turn up any examples of a
>well soldered joint so please give me some feedback. (I did find a
>YouTube video of someone teaching soldering... he had a roll of
>electrical tape!) The wire is 20 AWG in this sample:
That joint is probably quite adequate. There
are some signs of 'beading' for the molten
solder at the interface with the terminal . . .
an effect of terminals exposed to the air
and moisture for some time . . . solder
has difficulty getting an aggressive wetting.
The really BIG difference in solders has more
to do with flux than the alloy. There are
really 'active' fluxes that would produce
a more wetted joint but I wouldn't be afraid
of what you've produced.
One thing you might 'practice' with is a technique
I call "flushing" the joint. Put some heat to the
terminal as if you were going to 'tin' the
end . . . but push some solder into the melt
until it drips, then wipe it off with rag before
it cools. Some solders I have are very active
flux and the excess melt+flux goes a long
way to preparing the base metal to accept
the soldered wire. You wind up using perhaps
2x to 3x of solder necessary to complete
the joint but the act of flushing with some
excess melt + flux can be useful to the
finished joint on 'stale' surfaces.
That's something you can play with but what
you've shown us is certainly adequate.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Check My Work |
At 03:56 PM 4/24/2016, you wrote:
>At 02:53 PM 4/24/2016, you wrote:
>>I found some old dogbone connectors in the basement and have been
>>doing some practicing. Googling didn't turn up any examples of a
>>well soldered joint so please give me some feedback. (I did find a
>>YouTube video of someone teaching soldering... he had a roll of
>>electrical tape!) The wire is 20 AWG in this sample:
>
> That joint is probably quite adequate. There
> are some signs of 'beading' for the molten
> solder at the interface with the terminal . . .
> an effect of terminals exposed to the air
> and moisture for some time . . . solder
> has difficulty getting an aggressive wetting.
You're looking for something more like this:
Emacs!
Bob . . .
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Check My Work |
Bob,
Flushing... never heard of it. I just tried it on one of those old
connectors and I did get a much better joint.
My practice connectors, BTW, have been in my basement for more than 20
years. They are heavily oxidized. I wouldn't put them into my plane but
they are proving worthy experimentation fodder.
Oh... before I forget again... some of the photos on Poor Man's Solder
Sleeves
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/PM_Solder_Sleeve/PM_Solder_Sleeve.html>
don't load. I was able to make a very satisfactory splice following your
instructions on that page. I am now ready to cut and extend the CAN bus
link cable that came with my MGL autopilot servo.
Thank you for your mentoring and encouragement.
-- Art Z.
On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> One thing you might 'practice' with is a technique
> I call "flushing" the joint. Put some heat to the
> terminal as if you were going to 'tin' the
> end . . . but push some solder into the melt
> until it drips, then wipe it off with rag before
> it cools. Some solders I have are very active
> flux and the excess melt+flux goes a long
> way to preparing the base metal to accept
> the soldered wire. You wind up using perhaps
> 2x to 3x of solder necessary to complete
> the joint but the act of flushing with some
> excess melt + flux can be useful to the
> finished joint on 'stale' surfaces.
>
--
http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <http://cheerfulcurmudgeon.com/>
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 17
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Subject: | Two Quick Questions |
Thanks for the advice!!!
Here is an interesting product.
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-2287PT-Electrical-Connector-Package/dp/B001R6IB1Q
?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
I will report back on it.
..
Cheers!!!
Bill Hunter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 12:18 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Two Quick Questions
What is the best method to splice a 6 AWG wire to a 8 AWG wire?
Any sort of manufactured splicing product will
add considerable 'bulk' to the wire. My personal
favorite for a trim joint is to strip about 5/8"
insulation off both ends to be mated. Fan out the
strands on the 6AWG and use a sharp nosed wire
cutter to trim out about 1/3 to 1/2 of its strands.
Fan the strands on the 8AWG then interleave them
into the stands of the larger wire and form the
expanded strands back into a tight bundle.
You can wrap the interleaved strands with some
small wire . . . strip off a chunk of 22AWG
to use the bare wires for 'binding' . . .
then solder the joint. Cover with shrink when
cooled.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Check My Work |
At 05:54 PM 4/24/2016, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>Flushing... never heard of it.
You wouldn't . . . in the higher order
environs of manufacturing with bright,
new components. But for those of us who
date back to 6v mobile rigs running
vibrators and PE-103 dynamoters all
scrounged from WWII military surplus,
a few 'tricks of the trade' were
discovered.
> I just tried it on one of those old connectors
> and I did get a much better joint.=C2
>
>My practice connectors, BTW, have been in my
>basement for more than 20 years. They are
>heavily oxidized. I wouldn't put them into my
>plane but they are proving worthy experimentation fodder.
Sure . . . but should you wish to use
one, pulling the soldered end out of a
firm grip in ScotchBright will improve
the wetting too.
>Oh... before I forget again... some of the
>photos on
><http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/PM_Solder_Sleeve/PM_Solder_Sleeve.htm
l>Poor
>Man's Solder Sleeves don't load. I was able to
>make a very satisfactory splice following your
>instructions on that page. I am now ready to cut
>and extend the CAN bus link cable that came with my MGL autopilot servo.
I just checked them here and they came
down alright . . . sorry you're having
difficulty.
>Thank you for your mentoring and encouragement.
Thank us here on the List by getting better
at what you do . . . but you are indeed
most welcome.
Bob . . .
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