Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:43 AM - Powering "minor" devices (Carlos Trigo)
2. 04:44 AM - Re: Powering "minor" devices (ARGOLDMAN@aol.com)
3. 05:21 AM - SHT3x Digital/Analog Humidity Sensors - Sensirion | DigiKey (Stuart Hutchison)
4. 05:40 AM - Re: Powering "minor" devices (C&K)
5. 05:45 AM - Re: SHT3x Digital/Analog Humidity Sensors - Sensirion | DigiKey (C&K)
6. 06:42 AM - Re: SHT3x Digital/Analog Humidity Sensors - Sensirion | DigiKey (Kent or Jackie Ashton)
7. 07:30 AM - Re: Powering "minor" devices (Stein Bruch)
8. 08:26 AM - Re: Powering "minor" devices (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 08:28 AM - Re: Powering "minor" devices (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 10:03 AM - Re: Powering "minor" devices (user9253)
11. 10:10 AM - Re: Powering "minor" devices (Carlos Trigo)
12. 10:41 AM - Re: Powering "minor" devices (Carlos Trigo)
13. 10:42 AM - Re: Powering "minor" devices (Carlos Trigo)
14. 12:14 PM - GNS 430 Intermittent Screen, Cooling? (Jared Yates)
15. 01:30 PM - Re: GNS 430 Intermittent Screen, Cooling? (John B)
16. 02:59 PM - Re: Powering "minor" devices (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 03:40 PM - Re: Powering "minor" devices (Stein Bruch)
18. 04:43 PM - Re: Powering "minor" devices (user9253)
Message 1
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Subject: | Powering "minor" devices |
Bob and all
I have to get power to 5 or 6 critters who will live in my instrument panel (instruments'
lights, LED strip, USB socket, warning lights, etc.).
I don't want to have a dedicated circuit breaker (or fuse - please don't start
a CB versus Fuse war again...), so I decided to use a small buss, powered from
a single CB, and then connect all those devices to this small buss.
Questions:
- is this the right and elegant solution to this particular need?
- which kind of buss should I use, a single bolt/screw, or a small bar?
- as for the circuit-breaker, should I use a 2A, which would be what each circuit
would need, or should I "upgrade" it to, say 5A, to protect all wires for
the case all of them are simultaneously transporting energy?
Regards
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Powering "minor" devices |
Carlos, consider individual poly fuses for those. a short in one of the
"minors" will not effect the others and you have protection.
Practice Safe sparks.
Rich
In a message dated 4/26/2016 3:44:28 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
trigo@mail.telepac.pt writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Carlos Trigo
<trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
Bob and all
I have to get power to 5 or 6 critters who will live in my instrument
panel (instruments' lights, LED strip, USB socket, warning lights, etc.).
I don't want to have a dedicated circuit breaker (or fuse - please don't
start a CB versus Fuse war again...), so I decided to use a small buss,
powered from a single CB, and then connect all those devices to this small buss.
Questions:
- is this the right and elegant solution to this particular need?
- which kind of buss should I use, a single bolt/screw, or a small bar?
- as for the circuit-breaker, should I use a 2A, which would be what each
circuit would need, or should I "upgrade" it to, say 5A, to protect all
wires for the case all of them are simultaneously transporting energy?
Regards
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
Message 3
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Subject: | SHT3x Digital/Analog Humidity Sensors - Sensirion | |
DigiKey
G=99day Bob,
Do you reckon it would be easy to build a circuit accommodating these
new humidity sensors (digital and analogue options) for an engine
dehumidifier that automatically switches between an aquarium pump and an
incandescent heat bulb dry out the silica desicant?
>
http://www.digikey.com.au/en/product-highlight/s/sensirion/sht3x-digital-a
nd-analog-humidity-sensors?WT.v_sub=6908894&WT.mc_id=em_NPA1604B.AU.Se
nd&WT.z_email=6249_NPA1604BI0AU_supplier6image--1649-Sensirion&mkt_tok=
eyJpIjoiTmprME9HVXlaR0pqWVRjeiIsInQiOiJlSGlHNGpRbzFVMVwvbmJHMFppZmNUSG9INm
phQnJWZjRlWWRHZ09uWGNONWxPcVlGaStzRFpGVGZSMTdBZ1FpVVFNQUxhZHRYU0UwVjBQME41
Wng2VFwvZEg5ajI3YWZoNk9BdlJLZk5oNTJzPSJ9
<http://www.digikey.com.au/en/product-highlight/s/sensirion/sht3x-digital-
and-analog-humidity-sensors?WT.v_sub=6908894&WT.mc_id=em_NPA1604B.AU.S
end&WT.z_email=6249_NPA1604BI0AU_supplier6image--1649-Sensirion&mkt_tok=
eyJpIjoiTmprME9HVXlaR0pqWVRjeiIsInQiOiJlSGlHNGpRbzFVMVwvbmJHMFppZmNUSG9INm
phQnJWZjRlWWRHZ09uWGNONWxPcVlGaStzRFpGVGZSMTdBZ1FpVVFNQUxhZHRYU0UwVjBQME41
Wng2VFwvZEg5ajI3YWZoNk9BdlJLZk5oNTJzPSJ9>
Cheers, Stu
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Powering "minor" devices |
I would use a single bolt and 5 amp protection with awg22 wire.
I would also daisy chain anywhere that made sense. ie if not convenient
to bring some wires back to the CB then split them off from any of the
downstream connections.
Don't drop down to smaller wires though as the 5 amp CB might not
properly protect some smaller wires.
Ken
On 26/04/2016 6:41 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Bob and all
>
> I have to get power to 5 or 6 critters who will live in my instrument panel (instruments'
lights, LED strip, USB socket, warning lights, etc.).
> I don't want to have a dedicated circuit breaker (or fuse - please don't start
a CB versus Fuse war again...), so I decided to use a small buss, powered from
a single CB, and then connect all those devices to this small buss.
>
> Questions:
> - is this the right and elegant solution to this particular need?
> - which kind of buss should I use, a single bolt/screw, or a small bar?
> - as for the circuit-breaker, should I use a 2A, which would be what each circuit
would need, or should I "upgrade" it to, say 5A, to protect all wires for
the case all of them are simultaneously transporting energy?
>
> Regards
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: SHT3x Digital/Analog Humidity Sensors - Sensirion |
| DigiKey
Stu
Much cheaper and easier to pick up little circuit assemblies marketed
for arduino projects or similar on ebay. There are several versions of
humidity sensors for a couple of dollars. I'd use a $3. arduino pro mini
as the controller. Similarly there are power relays that interface for a
couple of $.
Ken
On 26/04/2016 8:20 AM, Stuart Hutchison wrote:
> Gday Bob,
>
> Do you reckon it would be easy to build a circuit accommodating these
> new humidity sensors (digital and analogue options) for an engine
> dehumidifier that automatically switches between an aquarium pump and
> an incandescent heat bulb dry out the silica desicant?
>
>> http://www.digikey.com.au/en/product-highlight/s/sensirion/sht3x-digital-and-analog-humidity-sensors?WT.v_sub=6908894&WT.mc_id=em_NPA1604B.AU.Send&WT.z_email=6249_NPA1604BI0AU_supplier6image--1649-Sensirion&mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiTmprME9HVXlaR0pqWVRjeiIsInQiOiJlSGlHNGpRbzFVMVwvbmJHMFppZmNUSG9INmphQnJWZjRlWWRHZ09uWGNONWxPcVlGaStzRFpGVGZSMTdBZ1FpVVFNQUxhZHRYU0UwVjBQME41Wng2VFwvZEg5ajI3YWZoNk9BdlJLZk5oNTJzPSJ9
>
> Cheers, Stu
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: SHT3x Digital/Analog Humidity Sensors - Sensirion |
| DigiKey
Pardon me for sidestepping your question but it might be simpler to make
a dehydrator with an ammo can, the aquarium pump you mention, and use a
light timer for a few hours a day. The silica will work for months and
can be dried in the oven fairly quickly and reused. Pics below. I have
had to replace a low-time cam and lifters due to rust. When I come back
from flying, I blow the moisture out of the engine with a small
air-mattress pump and hook up the dehydrator. I wrapped the pump in
screen wire and put it in a bag to breath; cover it with the silica gel.
500g silica packs are pretty cheap on ebay.
-Kent
> On Apr 26, 2016, at 8:20 AM, Stuart Hutchison
<stuart@stuarthutchison.com.au> wrote:
>
> G=99day Bob,
>
> Do you reckon it would be easy to build a circuit accommodating these
new humidity sensors
Message 7
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Subject: | Powering "minor" devices |
Not debating your rationale, but I will still give you my 2 cents and that
is not to do what you're doing....because I'm wondering what/how you're
going to size your protection device at? Will it be sized for the 2-4A USB
charger, or the .2A LED strip, or the warning lights, or the combination of
all of them (in which case the device would potentially be too large to
protect the wiring to any single one of them)? At this point in your build,
don't step over a dollar to pick up a dime.
One of the easiest solutions to that conundrum is a small fuse block with a
single input that has 6+ circuits that you can individually fuse. You could
still hide it behind a screen where it has easy access, but it'd be much
simpler and much more elegant in my opinion....plus the quickest and easiest
to wire up yet still allowing you the option for multiple protected circuits
quite easy and cleanly.
If you're still dead set against protecting each device/circuit (which I
stress would be the proper method), I'd say use either a smaller terminal
strip with jumpers or a remade buss bar with either bolts or screws on it.
Again, the goal here is to keep it simple, clean and have the least amount
of "failure points" in the system.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos
Trigo
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2016 5:41 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Powering "minor" devices
--> <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
Bob and all
I have to get power to 5 or 6 critters who will live in my instrument panel
(instruments' lights, LED strip, USB socket, warning lights, etc.).
I don't want to have a dedicated circuit breaker (or fuse - please don't
start a CB versus Fuse war again...), so I decided to use a small buss,
powered from a single CB, and then connect all those devices to this small
buss.
Questions:
- is this the right and elegant solution to this particular need?
- which kind of buss should I use, a single bolt/screw, or a small bar?
- as for the circuit-breaker, should I use a 2A, which would be what each
circuit would need, or should I "upgrade" it to, say 5A, to protect all
wires for the case all of them are simultaneously transporting energy?
Regards
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Powering "minor" devices |
At 05:41 AM 4/26/2016, you wrote:
>
>Bob and all
>
>I have to get power to 5 or 6 critters who will live in my
>instrument panel (instruments' lights, LED strip, USB socket,
>warning lights, etc.).
>I don't want to have a dedicated circuit breaker (or fuse - please
>don't start a CB versus Fuse war again...), so I decided to use a
>small buss, powered from a single CB, and then connect all those
>devices to this small buss.
It's entirely rational. It's done on a larger scale
in TC aircraft.
Consider the distribution tree and its branches.
A similar thing is in operation all over your
house. Any one appliance, like a hair dryer,
may have a current/overheat protector built
in. The breaker feeding the outlet comes from
a bus in your breaker box. A transformer behind
your house probably has a protective device on
the hv primary feeder . . . and so it goes up
the line until you get to a steam driven turbine
somewhere that powers a whole lot of hair dryers.
The goal in designing distribution is to protect
branches with devices robust enough to not be
nuisance tripped by anticipated load and fault
conditions downstream. For example, the main
breaker for your house should not operate when
every branch is loaded to capacity and only
one branch is faulted causing its particular
breaker to open. Hence, a short in nobody's
hair dryer should turn out the lights in the
the room, much less the whole neighborhood.
A Hawker or King Air has multiple busses
with feeders from heavier upstream sources.
In every instance, a bus feeder is selected
to be free of nuisance tripping due to
smaller faults downstream. There have been
a number of suggestions for selection of
protective devices . . . the choices are
several and combinations are many. But one
simple design rule applies: Don't let any
single fault event propagate into other
systems. Hence, you can use a fuse, cb,
current limiter or automatic solid-state
wire-protection gee-whizz at the source
end of any feeder . . . just make sure it
is sized for DYNAMIC performance to grunt
the load of any single downstream fault.
Breakers are very slow compared to fuses.
A breaker protected 'buss feeder' to a
fuse block is a perfectly rational thing
to consider. You may want to size the bus
feeder and wire not so much for temperature
effects of maximum anticipated loads . . .
but from the perspective of staying put
when your GPS feeder fuse is called upon
to operate. A 30A breaker driving a 10AWG
feeder to a block of ten, 1A fuses may
be a bit overkill . . . but it does
not violate the first rule of feeder
protection - protect the feeder but ignore
downstream faults.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Powering "minor" devices |
>
>
>If you're still dead set against protecting each device/circuit (which I
>stress would be the proper method),
RIGHT ON!
Bob . . .
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Powering "minor" devices |
How minor are those items? Do you care if they all stop working at once? If they
all go dead, will it be a non event that can wait until landing? If not,
follow Stein's advice. Install a 4 or 6 position fuse block. It does not necessarily
have to be in-flight accessible. The fuse block can be mounted out of
sight. You are better off waiting until safely on the ground before replacing
a fuse. I think that each and every electrical load should have its own fuse.
If one blows, you will know exactly which load is the problem. Fuses are
cheap.
Years ago an airliner crashed because the pilot and copilot were distracted trying
to replace an indicator lamp.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455490#455490
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Powering "minor" devices |
Bob
Thanks for your answer, but to be frank you got a little bit too much philos
ophical, so in the end I think I did not quite got your message
Could you please be a little more specific on answering my 3 questions?
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 26/04/2016, =C3-s 16:25, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aero
electric.com> escreveu:
> At 05:41 AM 4/26/2016, you wrote:
.pt>
>>
>> Bob and all
>>
>> I have to get power to 5 or 6 critters who will live in my instrument pan
el (instruments' lights, LED strip, USB socket, warning lights, etc.).
>> I don't want to have a dedicated circuit breaker (or fuse - please don't s
tart a CB versus Fuse war again...), so I decided to use a small buss, power
ed from a single CB, and then connect all those devices to this small buss.
>
> It's entirely rational. It's done on a larger scale
> in TC aircraft.
>
> Consider the distribution tree and its branches.
> A similar thing is in operation all over your
> house. Any one appliance, like a hair dryer,
> may have a current/overheat protector built
> in. The breaker feeding the outlet comes from
> a bus in your breaker box. A transformer behind
> your house probably has a protective device on
> the hv primary feeder . . . and so it goes up
> the line until you get to a steam driven turbine
> somewhere that powers a whole lot of hair dryers.
>
> The goal in designing distribution is to protect
> branches with devices robust enough to not be
> nuisance tripped by anticipated load and fault
> conditions downstream. For example, the main
> breaker for your house should not operate when
> every branch is loaded to capacity and only
> one branch is faulted causing its particular
> breaker to open. Hence, a short in nobody's
> hair dryer should turn out the lights in the
> the room, much less the whole neighborhood.
>
> A Hawker or King Air has multiple busses
> with feeders from heavier upstream sources.
> In every instance, a bus feeder is selected
> to be free of nuisance tripping due to
> smaller faults downstream. There have been
> a number of suggestions for selection of
> protective devices . . . the choices are
> several and combinations are many. But one
> simple design rule applies: Don't let any
> single fault event propagate into other
> systems. Hence, you can use a fuse, cb,
> current limiter or automatic solid-state
> wire-protection gee-whizz at the source
> end of any feeder . . . just make sure it
> is sized for DYNAMIC performance to grunt
> the load of any single downstream fault.
>
> Breakers are very slow compared to fuses.
> A breaker protected 'buss feeder' to a
> fuse block is a perfectly rational thing
> to consider. You may want to size the bus
> feeder and wire not so much for temperature
> effects of maximum anticipated loads . . .
> but from the perspective of staying put
> when your GPS feeder fuse is called upon
> to operate. A 30A breaker driving a 10AWG
> feeder to a block of ten, 1A fuses may
> be a bit overkill . . . but it does
> not violate the first rule of feeder
> protection - protect the feeder but ignore
> downstream faults.
>
>
> Bob . . .
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Powering "minor" devices |
Thank you Stein
I will consider your solution.
CT
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 26/04/2016, s 15:28, Stein Bruch <stein@steinair.com> escreveu:
>
> Not debating your rationale, but I will still give you my 2 cents and that
> is not to do what you're doing....because I'm wondering what/how you're
> going to size your protection device at? Will it be sized for the 2-4A USB
> charger, or the .2A LED strip, or the warning lights, or the combination of
> all of them (in which case the device would potentially be too large to
> protect the wiring to any single one of them)? At this point in your build,
> don't step over a dollar to pick up a dime.
>
> One of the easiest solutions to that conundrum is a small fuse block with a
> single input that has 6+ circuits that you can individually fuse. You could
> still hide it behind a screen where it has easy access, but it'd be much
> simpler and much more elegant in my opinion....plus the quickest and easiest
> to wire up yet still allowing you the option for multiple protected circuits
> quite easy and cleanly.
>
> If you're still dead set against protecting each device/circuit (which I
> stress would be the proper method), I'd say use either a smaller terminal
> strip with jumpers or a remade buss bar with either bolts or screws on it.
> Again, the goal here is to keep it simple, clean and have the least amount
> of "failure points" in the system.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos
> Trigo
> Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2016 5:41 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Powering "minor" devices
>
> --> <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
>
> Bob and all
>
> I have to get power to 5 or 6 critters who will live in my instrument panel
> (instruments' lights, LED strip, USB socket, warning lights, etc.).
> I don't want to have a dedicated circuit breaker (or fuse - please don't
> start a CB versus Fuse war again...), so I decided to use a small buss,
> powered from a single CB, and then connect all those devices to this small
> buss.
>
> Questions:
> - is this the right and elegant solution to this particular need?
> - which kind of buss should I use, a single bolt/screw, or a small bar?
> - as for the circuit-breaker, should I use a 2A, which would be what each
> circuit would need, or should I "upgrade" it to, say 5A, to protect all
> wires for the case all of them are simultaneously transporting energy?
>
> Regards
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Powering "minor" devices |
Thank you Ken
You did answer all my questions.
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 26/04/2016, s 13:38, C&K <yellowduckduo@gmail.com> escreveu:
>
> I would use a single bolt and 5 amp protection with awg22 wire.
> I would also daisy chain anywhere that made sense. ie if not convenient to bring
some wires back to the CB then split them off from any of the downstream connections.
> Don't drop down to smaller wires though as the 5 amp CB might not properly protect
some smaller wires.
> Ken
>
>> On 26/04/2016 6:41 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>>
>> Bob and all
>>
>> I have to get power to 5 or 6 critters who will live in my instrument panel
(instruments' lights, LED strip, USB socket, warning lights, etc.).
>> I don't want to have a dedicated circuit breaker (or fuse - please don't start
a CB versus Fuse war again...), so I decided to use a small buss, powered from
a single CB, and then connect all those devices to this small buss.
>>
>> Questions:
>> - is this the right and elegant solution to this particular need?
>> - which kind of buss should I use, a single bolt/screw, or a small bar?
>> - as for the circuit-breaker, should I use a 2A, which would be what each circuit
would need, or should I "upgrade" it to, say 5A, to protect all wires for
the case all of them are simultaneously transporting energy?
>>
>> Regards
>> Carlos
>>
>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | GNS 430 Intermittent Screen, Cooling? |
I've been using a Garmin 430 for about 2 years. It worked fine for a while,
but around a year ago I started to notice the screen would become
unreadable at times. I don't have a photo of the condition, but I'd
describe it as blotchy and a little scrambled. Googling has led me to
believe that it is overheating. If that is the case, I figured it is likely
due to the sun shining on the glare shield above the unit. I've tried a few
heat mitigation efforts there, such as installing a passive vent above the
unit, and insulation on the underside of the glare shield. Most recently I
installed a 3/4" blast tube that blows a portion of my cabin vent air onto
the unit. I don't have a control to know if these efforts have reduced the
problem, but they have not eliminated it.
For those who know more about these boxes, here are some questions I can
think of:
Is the cooling fan supposed to run all the time? I can hear it running,
but I can also hear it stop running sometimes.
I could set up some data collection to see what kind of temperatures I'm
actually seeing if it would be worthwhile. Where should I measure, and at
what temperatures should it be able to operate normally?
I never had the problem before I took it to the local shop for an internal
battery replacement. How plausible is it that in that process they might
have introduced a fan-related problem? Are local shops able to fix this
kind of thing, or does it have to go back to Garmin?
If I have a unit-specific problem, I'm more inclined to have it repaired or
upgraded to a 430w, but I'd hate to go through all of that expense if my
problem is actually an airframe/installation problem.
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: GNS 430 Intermittent Screen, Cooling? |
Jared-
Is this condition present when the Garmin is first powered? If the answer
is "yes," then send it back or upgrade the unit. If the screen-viewing
issue appears after the Garmin warms up/gets hot, then it is likely heat
related. If it were my installation, I'd wire the avionics cooling to run
whenever any avionics are powered, via the avionics master switch, if you
have one installed. Upgrading the unit sounds like a good idea, either way.
Thank you.
On Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 12:10 PM, Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.com> wrote:
> I've been using a Garmin 430 for about 2 years. It worked fine for a
> while, but around a year ago I started to notice the screen would become
> unreadable at times. I don't have a photo of the condition, but I'd
> describe it as blotchy and a little scrambled. Googling has led me to
> believe that it is overheating. If that is the case, I figured it is likely
> due to the sun shining on the glare shield above the unit. I've tried a few
> heat mitigation efforts there, such as installing a passive vent above the
> unit, and insulation on the underside of the glare shield. Most recently I
> installed a 3/4" blast tube that blows a portion of my cabin vent air onto
> the unit. I don't have a control to know if these efforts have reduced the
> problem, but they have not eliminated it.
>
> For those who know more about these boxes, here are some questions I can
> think of:
>
> Is the cooling fan supposed to run all the time? I can hear it running,
> but I can also hear it stop running sometimes.
>
> I could set up some data collection to see what kind of temperatures I'm
> actually seeing if it would be worthwhile. Where should I measure, and at
> what temperatures should it be able to operate normally?
>
> I never had the problem before I took it to the local shop for an internal
> battery replacement. How plausible is it that in that process they might
> have introduced a fan-related problem? Are local shops able to fix this
> kind of thing, or does it have to go back to Garmin?
>
> If I have a unit-specific problem, I'm more inclined to have it repaired
> or upgraded to a 430w, but I'd hate to go through all of that expense if my
> problem is actually an airframe/installation problem.
>
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Subject: | Re: Powering "minor" devices |
At 12:09 PM 4/26/2016, you wrote:
>Bob
>
>Thanks for your answer, but to be frank you got a little bit too
>much philosophical, so in the end I think I did not quite got your message
>Could you please be a little more specific on answering my 3 questions?
If it were my airplane:
Select a fuse-block (which becomes your minor-items bus)
with sufficient number of slots to power planned devices
plus a few spares . . . perhaps a 10-slot block.
Wire this 'fuse bus' to your main bus through a
robust feeder, say 14AWG.
Put a 15A breaker or 20A fuse at the main bus
end of this feeder.
Populate the minor items bus with fuses no
greater than say 3A so each item enjoys
its own, protected source.
Bob . . .
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Subject: | Powering "minor" devices |
My exact recommendation as well! Cheap, easy, light and accomplishes
exactly what you want/need whilst still be serviceable and proper.
Cheers,
Stein
Do not archive.
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2016 4:58 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Powering "minor" devices
At 12:09 PM 4/26/2016, you wrote:
Bob
Thanks for your answer, but to be frank you got a little bit too much
philosophical, so in the end I think I did not quite got your message
Could you please be a little more specific on answering my 3 questions?
If it were my airplane:
Select a fuse-block (which becomes your minor-items bus)
with sufficient number of slots to power planned devices
plus a few spares . . . perhaps a 10-slot block.
Wire this 'fuse bus' to your main bus through a
robust feeder, say 14AWG.
Put a 15A breaker or 20A fuse at the main bus
end of this feeder.
Populate the minor items bus with fuses no
greater than say 3A so each item enjoys
its own, protected source.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Powering "minor" devices |
When trying to decide which is the best way to accomplish a task, I ask myself
what is best in the long run, not what is the easiest or least expensive at the
moment. In this particular case, Stein and Bob have suggested the right and
elegant long term solution. A few years from now when one of those fuses blow,
you will be thankful that 5 other electrical loads still work. And you will
know which device caused the fuse to blow.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455510#455510
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