Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:32 AM - B&C 200G Alternator (Efraim Otero)
2. 10:40 AM - 24V B&C starter current? (digidocs)
3. 10:47 AM - Re: 24V B&C starter current? (user9253)
4. 11:25 AM - Intermittent Alternator Noise (Justin Jones)
5. 11:44 AM - Re: B&C 200G Alternator (user9253)
6. 12:09 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (John Tipton)
7. 12:22 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (Justin Jones)
8. 12:26 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (Lyle Peterson)
9. 01:12 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (Rene)
10. 01:39 PM - Re: Re: B&C 200G Alternator (Clive Richards)
11. 01:57 PM - Re: diodes (Edwardoc)
12. 02:34 PM - Re: Re: diodes (Charlie England)
13. 02:38 PM - Re: B&C 200G Alternator (user9253)
14. 03:03 PM - Re: diodes (user9253)
15. 03:44 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (Lyle Peterson)
16. 04:23 PM - Re: 24V B&C starter current? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 04:30 PM - Re: B&C 200G Alternator (user9253)
18. 05:07 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (Hal Benjamin)
19. 07:06 PM - Re: diodes (Edwardoc)
20. 07:39 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (user9253)
Message 1
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| Subject: | B&C 200G Alternator |
Dear All:
I bought a 200G alternador to install a in my wooden celebrity
biplane=C2=B4s O200 Continental engine. It has a Skytec Starter that is
powered by a powersonic 12 V 18 AmpHr Battery.
I received a schematic drawing for a simple day VFR electrical system
(attached).
I have some very newbie questions:
1) I received an =9Cinline fuse holder=9D picture also
attached. This comes be
This goes between and cabled to the alternador B lead to carry that 15
amp fuse before the firewall and the voltaje regulator?
If so, how do I connect it_ do I cut the red wire and splice it to the
one coming out of the alternator? What gauge aire should I use as there
is no mention of any AWG size?
2) What wire to use between the capacitar and the S8005-1? 14 AWG same
as ground?
3) in the S8005-1 what does that =9CCOM=9D diagram mean?
4) The power distribuci=C3=B3n bus: can I use a fuse block with fast on
tabs?
5) my battery is conecten directly to the starter. Should I reroute the
negative pole to ground? What soul I use as ground, the steel firewall?
The steel/aluminum landing gear?
6) how/where does the starter fit in this diagram?
Please help as you can see I am clueless about electriza
systems (even though I read Bob=C2=B4s bookI feel like I=C2=B4m
being taught in Russian! That is obviously my very own weakeness not
the book=C2=B4s!!!!)
Thank you all,
Ephraim
Message 2
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| Subject: | 24V B&C starter current? |
Hello AeroElectric,
Does anyone have data on the approximate starting current for the 24V B&C starter?
I spoke with B&C briefly and the best data they have easily available is 250-300A.
This was higher than I was expecting. For example, Skytec claims 85-125A
on their 24V NL/ec starter.
David
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455626#455626
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| Subject: | Re: 24V B&C starter current? |
The current varies greatly with the load and even from millisecond to millisecond
from zero RPM to full cranking speed.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455629#455629
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| Subject: | Intermittent Alternator Noise |
Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise.
My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator (60A Lycoming
alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the EFII programmer
reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8.
When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an intermittent
noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the noise is a low
voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII programmer still
reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes away and the voltage
comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will continue to cycle with no
predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise, the Dynon display voltage drops
and every time the noise goes away the Dynon display voltage rises.
After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and watching this
cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9 volts on the
battery.
The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the Aeroelectric Connection.
Thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks!
Justin
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: B&C 200G Alternator |
Ephraim
1. Yes, cut the red wire and connect one end to the power distribution bus in place
of the circuit breaker that is labeled 15A for 200G. The other end of the
red wire connects to the COM terminal of the relay.
2. Yes, 14 AWG.
3. COM stands for "common" on the relay. The "COM" pole is the moving part of
the relay. It connects to the N.O. terminal when the relay is energized and connects
to the N.C. terminal when the relay is not energized.
4. Yes, use a fuse block. However, if you install a crowbar over-voltage module,
that circuit should have a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. With normal
aircraft loads, a small 12 amp alternator will be working hard to maintain voltage,
let alone producing over-voltage.
5. Are both positive and negative battery terminals connected directly to the starter?
If you are talking about only the negative, then leave it attached to
the starter. Install an additional ground wire from the battery negative to
the firewall. Use a brass bolt and install a forest of ground tabs on the other
side of the firewall connected to that same brass bolt.
6. See diagram Z-11 in Bob's book for connecting the starter to the battery. If
your plane does not have a master contactor, then the starter contactor can
be connected directly to the battery positive. Although it is recommended to
also have a master contactor. Z-11 also shows the magneto switches which also
connect to the starter contactor. From the main power bus, follow the wire from
the "START 7A" fuse.
A 12 amp alternator is not very big. Do you have another larger alternator too?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455632#455632
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| Subject: | Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise |
What's a 'fluke meter'
John
Sent from my iPad
----x--O--x----
> On 29 Apr 2016, at 07:18 pm, Justin Jones <jmjones2000@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>
> Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise.
>
> My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator (60A
Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the EFII programmer
reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8.
>
> When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an intermittent
noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the noise is a
low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII programmer still
reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes away and the voltage
comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will continue to cycle with no
predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise, the Dynon display voltage drops
and every time the noise goes away the Dynon display voltage rises.
>
> After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and watching
this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9 volts on the
battery.
>
> The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the Aeroelectric
Connection.
>
> Thoughts or suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Justin
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise |
> On Apr 29, 2016, at 11:07, John Tipton <jmtipton@btopenworld.com> wrote:
>
>
> What's a 'fluke meter'
>
> John
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ----x--O--x----
It is a Fluke brand digital multimeter.
Justin
>
>> On 29 Apr 2016, at 07:18 pm, Justin Jones <jmjones2000@mindspring.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise.
>>
>> My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator (60A
Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the EFII programmer
reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8.
>>
>> When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an intermittent
noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the noise is
a low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII programmer still
reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes away and the voltage
comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will continue to cycle with
no predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise, the Dynon display voltage
drops and every time the noise goes away the Dynon display voltage rises.
>>
>> After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and watching
this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9 volts on the
battery.
>>
>> The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the Aeroelectric
Connection.
>>
>> Thoughts or suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Justin
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise |
Fluke is a brand of a series of multi-meters usually considered to be of
high quality.
On 4/29/2016 2:07 PM, John Tipton wrote:
>
> What's a 'fluke meter'
>
> John
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ----x--O--x----
>
>> On 29 Apr 2016, at 07:18 pm, Justin Jones <jmjones2000@mindspring.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise.
>>
>> My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator (60A
Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the EFII programmer
reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8.
>>
>> When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an intermittent
noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the noise is
a low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII programmer still
reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes away and the voltage
comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will continue to cycle with
no predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise, the Dynon display voltage
drops and every time the noise goes away the Dynon display voltage rises.
>>
>> After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and watching
this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9 volts on the
battery.
>>
>> The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the Aeroelectric
Connection.
>>
>> Thoughts or suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Justin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Intermittent Alternator Noise |
It is what you call a bad multi-meter when you are in mixed company. :)
Do not archive.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lyle
Peterson
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2016 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise
--> <lyleap@centurylink.net>
Fluke is a brand of a series of multi-meters usually considered to be of
high quality.
On 4/29/2016 2:07 PM, John Tipton wrote:
<jmtipton@btopenworld.com>
>
> What's a 'fluke meter'
>
> John
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ----x--O--x----
>
>> On 29 Apr 2016, at 07:18 pm, Justin Jones <jmjones2000@mindspring.com>
wrote:
>>
<jmjones2000@mindspring.com>
>>
>> Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise.
>>
>> My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator
(60A Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the
EFII programmer reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8.
>>
>> When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an
intermittent noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the
noise is a low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII
programmer still reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes
away and the voltage comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will
continue to cycle with no predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise,
the Dynon display voltage drops and every time the noise goes away the Dynon
display voltage rises.
>>
>> After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and
watching this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9
volts on the battery.
>>
>> The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the
Aeroelectric Connection.
>>
>> Thoughts or suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Justin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: B&C 200G Alternator |
Joe Ref item 1 Efraim drawing shows the inline fuse in the alternator AC
output wire before the regulator I would put it their with a 15 fuse on the
distribution block connecting to the relay com as his drawing.
Efraim I would twist the AC wires from the alternator output to the
regulator as your note 2. as I assume this is a simple aircraft with very
little load this alternator should be large enough we use a smaller one on
our 0200 with no problem (we have MAGS, Mechanical Fuel Pump ,Icom A22
radio, trig transponder, backup electric fuel pump,strobes)
Clive
On 29 April 2016 at 19:42, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Ephraim
>
> 1. Yes, cut the red wire and connect one end to the power distribution bus
> in place of the circuit breaker that is labeled 15A for 200G. The other
> end of the red wire connects to the COM terminal of the relay.
>
> 2. Yes, 14 AWG.
>
> 3. COM stands for "common" on the relay. The "COM" pole is the moving
> part of the relay. It connects to the N.O. terminal when the relay is
> energized and connects to the N.C. terminal when the relay is not energized.
>
> 4. Yes, use a fuse block. However, if you install a crowbar over-voltage
> module, that circuit should have a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. With
> normal aircraft loads, a small 12 amp alternator will be working hard to
> maintain voltage, let alone producing over-voltage.
>
> 5. Are both positive and negative battery terminals connected directly to
> the starter? If you are talking about only the negative, then leave it
> attached to the starter. Install an additional ground wire from the
> battery negative to the firewall. Use a brass bolt and install a forest of
> ground tabs on the other side of the firewall connected to that same brass
> bolt.
>
> 6. See diagram Z-11 in Bob's book for connecting the starter to the
> battery. If your plane does not have a master contactor, then the starter
> contactor can be connected directly to the battery positive. Although it
> is recommended to also have a master contactor. Z-11 also shows the
> magneto switches which also connect to the starter contactor. From the
> main power bus, follow the wire from the "START 7A" fuse.
>
> A 12 amp alternator is not very big. Do you have another larger
> alternator too?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455632#455632
>
>
Message 11
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At the risk of being shot I have a question concerning how to hook a diode to my
new starter contact. I am replacing the one that came from Vans in 2005 with
a Lamar brand contractor but the coil lugs are not labeled S & I like the old
one. I think I have figured out which side of the coil is the 12-V input and
the other one I think hooks to ground. Lamar web site shows two types of hookups
depending on a negative or positive switching but not sure where to hook
the diode to for the positive switching wiring. On the old contractor one of
the coil lugs was internally grounded but on the Lamar neither one is. Any inputs.
Couldn't find anything in my searches.
After reading about contractors and voltage spikes, I may have some burned contacts
on my key starting switch as I did not install a diode on the starter contractor
on 2006 and have been having trouble on and off for two years with my
starter acting like it is getting low voltage even though all the voltages check
OK under load. Starter has been rebuilt by SkyTec.
The problem is on some starts the pinion gear moves forward on the Sky Tec LS starter
but not with enough force to engage the gears on the flywheel and thus
the starter motor does not turn. Sometimes holding the key on will cause it to
finally engage and start. Other times it works fine both hot and cold engine.
Other times it will not engage at all unless someone moves the prop slightly
while I hold the starter key on and then it engages and the starter cranks
the engine fine.
Changing the contractor just to eliminate that as a cause before replacing the
key starter switch. 8)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455644#455644
Message 12
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On Fri, Apr 29, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Edwardoc <Rv8tor@mac.com> wrote:
>
> At the risk of being shot I have a question concerning how to hook a diode
> to my new starter contact. I am replacing the one that came from Vans in
> 2005 with a Lamar brand contractor but the coil lugs are not labeled S & I
> like the old one. I think I have figured out which side of the coil is the
> 12-V input and the other one I think hooks to ground. Lamar web site shows
> two types of hookups depending on a negative or positive switching but not
> sure where to hook the diode to for the positive switching wiring. On the
> old contractor one of the coil lugs was internally grounded but on the
> Lamar neither one is. Any inputs. Couldn't find anything in my searches.
>
> After reading about contractors and voltage spikes, I may have some burned
> contacts on my key starting switch as I did not install a diode on the
> starter contractor on 2006 and have been having trouble on and off for two
> years with my starter acting like it is getting low voltage even though all
> the voltages check OK under load. Starter has been rebuilt by SkyTec.
> The problem is on some starts the pinion gear moves forward on the Sky Tec
> LS starter but not with enough force to engage the gears on the flywheel
> and thus the starter motor does not turn. Sometimes holding the key on
> will cause it to finally engage and start. Other times it works fine both
> hot and cold engine. Other times it will not engage at all unless someone
> moves the prop slightly while I hold the starter key on and then it engages
> and the starter cranks the engine fine.
> Changing the contractor just to eliminate that as a cause before replacing
> the key starter switch. 8)
>
>
> If the pinion teeth actually engage the flywheel teeth, but it doesn't
turn, then either the starter motor is defective (unlikely, if
intermittent) or it isn't seeing full battery voltage. That can be caused
by dirty/corroded crimps, terminals, etc, anywhere between the battery
positive post and the battery negative post. In other words, don't forget
to check the ground path, too. It can also be caused by defective contacts
in the solenoid that's mounted on the starter itself. Make yourself an
extension wire & hook one end to the heavy B+ terminal on the starter and
the other end to your volt meter positive lead. hold the meter negative
*directly* on the battery negative post (not on the connector). Push the
start button. You should see 8-10 volts on the meter if the prop turns. If
it doesn't turn, and you see less than 9 volts, you've got either a bad
connection somewhere or a bad battery.
Use the ohm meter function to check the separate starter contactor. It
should have 2 big & 1 or 2 small terminals. Measure resistance from the
metal frame to each small terminal. If one of them is tied to the frame, it
will read near zero ohms on your meter. The other would then read ~4-6 ohms
to ground.
If one reads 4-6 ohms to the frame, and the other reads open circuit
(infinite resistance), then you've got a contactor with S & I terminals.
In either case, hook up your diode so the arrow points toward the terminal
that reads 4-6 ohms to ground. That is also where you'll hook your control
line from your starter switch. B+ from bus to switch to contactor terminal.
The other end of the diode goes to ground/frame.
Note that if neither terminal shows low/no resistance to ground, but you
read 15-20 ohms between the small terminals, you probably don't have a
starter contactor. It's likely a master contactor. Will maybe work for a
while, but life may be short.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: B&C 200G Alternator |
Clive, you are correct that there is a fuse in the alternator AC output. I did
not notice that before. However, a fuse at that location serves no useful purpose
in my opinion and is an unnecessary failure point. The fuse at the power
bus will protect the battery and will protect wires going to the charging system.
A permanent magnet alternator is self current limiting. Equal size fuses
in series is not recommended. There are hundreds of Rotax powered RV-12s that
have no fuse located in the dynamo AC output. Van's Aircraft designed the
electrical system and RV-12s must be wired exactly per the plans if registered
as E-LSA.
Bob's Z-16 does not have a fuse in the AC output.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455648#455648
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Connect the diode directly across the two small terminals on the Lamar contactor
with the arrow (banded end) pointing towards positive. As far as polarity of
the small terminals, it does not matter. (if I am looking at the correct datasheet)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/lamarsolenoidinstall.pdf
Check terminals for tightness and corrosion on all fat wires between the battery
and starter, both positive and negative (ground).
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455650#455650
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise |
It is a meter that measures the number of flukes in a given period of time.
On 4/29/2016 3:10 PM, Rene wrote:
>
> It is what you call a bad multi-meter when you are in mixed company. :)
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lyle
> Peterson
> Sent: Friday, April 29, 2016 1:25 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise
>
> --> <lyleap@centurylink.net>
>
> Fluke is a brand of a series of multi-meters usually considered to be of
> high quality.
>
>
> On 4/29/2016 2:07 PM, John Tipton wrote:
> <jmtipton@btopenworld.com>
>> What's a 'fluke meter'
>>
>> John
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> ----x--O--x----
>>
>>> On 29 Apr 2016, at 07:18 pm, Justin Jones <jmjones2000@mindspring.com>
> wrote:
> <jmjones2000@mindspring.com>
>>> Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise.
>>>
>>> My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator
> (60A Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the
> EFII programmer reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8.
>>> When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an
> intermittent noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the
> noise is a low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII
> programmer still reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes
> away and the voltage comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will
> continue to cycle with no predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise,
> the Dynon display voltage drops and every time the noise goes away the Dynon
> display voltage rises.
>>> After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and
> watching this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9
> volts on the battery.
>>> The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the
> Aeroelectric Connection.
>>> Thoughts or suggestions?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Justin
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: 24V B&C starter current? |
At 12:35 PM 4/29/2016, you wrote:
>
>Hello AeroElectric,
>
>Does anyone have data on the approximate starting current for the
>24V B&C starter?
>
>I spoke with B&C briefly and the best data they have easily
>available is 250-300A. This was higher than I was expecting. For
>example, Skytec claims 85-125A on their 24V NL/ec starter.
Depending on the size of the engine, temperatures
and engine condition, both figures may be correct . . .
but different for another engine/wiring combination.
As a general rule, we don't concern ourselves with
the actual numbers for cranking current . . . because
it varies so much on an airplane by airplane basis.
What we DO concentrate on is battery condition. A
fresh, off-the-shelf 18 a.h. SLVA battery shouldn't
even breath hard to dump 600-700 amps at 9v.
Keeping voltage drops in the cranking current
circuits low is the secret to getting the most
from what ever battery you choose . . .
If I were asked to put a figure of merit on
starter A vs. starter B vs. starter C. I'd
have to load them with a constant torque
representative of a worst case engine (6 cycl
lyc cold soaked) then measure rpm at load
and watt-seconds consumed for some benchmark
cranking interval . . . say 10 seconds.
But after posting figures for the three devices,
I'm betting the percentage of market share for
the different offerings would not change materially.
Compared to boat-anchor Prestolites, the cranking
performance for all modern starters is so much
better for less weight that energy consumed
is irrelevant.
No starter will require more than 5% of total
energy contained in an 18 a.h. battery to
get a well tuned engine running. So if the
three samples took 1.8, 2.3 and 2.9 percent
of total energy, it's more likely that
the builder would choose the least expensive
with an acceptable field performance as opposed
to any choices about conserving watt-seconds.
What is the basis for your concerns?
Bob . . .
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: B&C 200G Alternator |
Now that I see that B&C intended that inline fuse to be installed in
the alternator AC output, I am changing my advice to not use at all.
A fuse located at the main power bus (fuseblock) is all that is needed.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455657#455657
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise |
Fluke is a good meter....Sorta like a Simpson meter was before Bart came along!
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 29, 2016, at 6:43 PM, Lyle Peterson <lyleap@centurylink.net> wrote:
>
>
> It is a meter that measures the number of flukes in a given period of time.
>
>
>> On 4/29/2016 3:10 PM, Rene wrote:
>>
>> It is what you call a bad multi-meter when you are in mixed company. :)
>>
>> Do not archive.
>>
>> Rene'
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lyle
>> Peterson
>> Sent: Friday, April 29, 2016 1:25 PM
>> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise
>>
>> --> <lyleap@centurylink.net>
>>
>> Fluke is a brand of a series of multi-meters usually considered to be of
>> high quality.
>>
>>
>>> On 4/29/2016 2:07 PM, John Tipton wrote:
>> <jmtipton@btopenworld.com>
>>> What's a 'fluke meter'
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> ----x--O--x----
>>>
>>>> On 29 Apr 2016, at 07:18 pm, Justin Jones <jmjones2000@mindspring.com>
>> wrote:
>> <jmjones2000@mindspring.com>
>>>> Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise.
>>>>
>>>> My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator
>> (60A Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the
>> EFII programmer reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8.
>>>> When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an
>> intermittent noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the
>> noise is a low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII
>> programmer still reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes
>> away and the voltage comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will
>> continue to cycle with no predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise,
>> the Dynon display voltage drops and every time the noise goes away the Dynon
>> display voltage rises.
>>>> After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and
>> watching this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9
>> volts on the battery.
>>>> The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the
>> Aeroelectric Connection.
>>>> Thoughts or suggestions?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> Justin
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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Thanks much. Now I understand. :D
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455660#455660
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise |
The vast majority of electrical problems are caused by bad connections. So check
every connection for corrosion and tightness.
Try interchanging the two voltage regulators to see what happens.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455663#455663
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