---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 04/29/16: 20 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 10:32 AM - B&C 200G Alternator (Efraim Otero) 2. 10:40 AM - 24V B&C starter current? (digidocs) 3. 10:47 AM - Re: 24V B&C starter current? (user9253) 4. 11:25 AM - Intermittent Alternator Noise (Justin Jones) 5. 11:44 AM - Re: B&C 200G Alternator (user9253) 6. 12:09 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (John Tipton) 7. 12:22 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (Justin Jones) 8. 12:26 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (Lyle Peterson) 9. 01:12 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (Rene) 10. 01:39 PM - Re: Re: B&C 200G Alternator (Clive Richards) 11. 01:57 PM - Re: diodes (Edwardoc) 12. 02:34 PM - Re: Re: diodes (Charlie England) 13. 02:38 PM - Re: B&C 200G Alternator (user9253) 14. 03:03 PM - Re: diodes (user9253) 15. 03:44 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (Lyle Peterson) 16. 04:23 PM - Re: 24V B&C starter current? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 17. 04:30 PM - Re: B&C 200G Alternator (user9253) 18. 05:07 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (Hal Benjamin) 19. 07:06 PM - Re: diodes (Edwardoc) 20. 07:39 PM - Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise (user9253) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 10:32:31 AM PST US From: Efraim Otero Subject: AeroElectric-List: B&C 200G Alternator Dear All: I bought a 200G alternador to install a in my wooden celebrity biplane=C2=B4s O200 Continental engine. It has a Skytec Starter that is powered by a powersonic 12 V 18 AmpHr Battery. I received a schematic drawing for a simple day VFR electrical system (attached). I have some very newbie questions: 1) I received an =9Cinline fuse holder=9D picture also attached. This comes be This goes between and cabled to the alternador B lead to carry that 15 amp fuse before the firewall and the voltaje regulator? If so, how do I connect it_ do I cut the red wire and splice it to the one coming out of the alternator? What gauge aire should I use as there is no mention of any AWG size? 2) What wire to use between the capacitar and the S8005-1? 14 AWG same as ground? 3) in the S8005-1 what does that =9CCOM=9D diagram mean? 4) The power distribuci=C3=B3n bus: can I use a fuse block with fast on tabs? 5) my battery is conecten directly to the starter. Should I reroute the negative pole to ground? What soul I use as ground, the steel firewall? The steel/aluminum landing gear? 6) how/where does the starter fit in this diagram? Please help as you can see I am clueless about electriza systems (even though I read Bob=C2=B4s bookI feel like I=C2=B4m being taught in Russian! That is obviously my very own weakeness not the book=C2=B4s!!!!) Thank you all, Ephraim ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 10:40:36 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: 24V B&C starter current? From: "digidocs" Hello AeroElectric, Does anyone have data on the approximate starting current for the 24V B&C starter? I spoke with B&C briefly and the best data they have easily available is 250-300A. This was higher than I was expecting. For example, Skytec claims 85-125A on their 24V NL/ec starter. David Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455626#455626 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 10:47:25 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: 24V B&C starter current? From: "user9253" The current varies greatly with the load and even from millisecond to millisecond from zero RPM to full cranking speed. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455629#455629 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 11:25:17 AM PST US From: Justin Jones Subject: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise. My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator (60A Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the EFII programmer reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8. When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an intermittent noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the noise is a low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII programmer still reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes away and the voltage comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will continue to cycle with no predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise, the Dynon display voltage drops and every time the noise goes away the Dynon display voltage rises. After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and watching this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9 volts on the battery. The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the Aeroelectric Connection. Thoughts or suggestions? Thanks! Justin ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 11:44:14 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: B&C 200G Alternator From: "user9253" Ephraim 1. Yes, cut the red wire and connect one end to the power distribution bus in place of the circuit breaker that is labeled 15A for 200G. The other end of the red wire connects to the COM terminal of the relay. 2. Yes, 14 AWG. 3. COM stands for "common" on the relay. The "COM" pole is the moving part of the relay. It connects to the N.O. terminal when the relay is energized and connects to the N.C. terminal when the relay is not energized. 4. Yes, use a fuse block. However, if you install a crowbar over-voltage module, that circuit should have a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. With normal aircraft loads, a small 12 amp alternator will be working hard to maintain voltage, let alone producing over-voltage. 5. Are both positive and negative battery terminals connected directly to the starter? If you are talking about only the negative, then leave it attached to the starter. Install an additional ground wire from the battery negative to the firewall. Use a brass bolt and install a forest of ground tabs on the other side of the firewall connected to that same brass bolt. 6. See diagram Z-11 in Bob's book for connecting the starter to the battery. If your plane does not have a master contactor, then the starter contactor can be connected directly to the battery positive. Although it is recommended to also have a master contactor. Z-11 also shows the magneto switches which also connect to the starter contactor. From the main power bus, follow the wire from the "START 7A" fuse. A 12 amp alternator is not very big. Do you have another larger alternator too? -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455632#455632 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 12:09:08 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise From: John Tipton What's a 'fluke meter' John Sent from my iPad ----x--O--x---- > On 29 Apr 2016, at 07:18 pm, Justin Jones wrote: > > > Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise. > > My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator (60A Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the EFII programmer reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8. > > When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an intermittent noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the noise is a low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII programmer still reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes away and the voltage comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will continue to cycle with no predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise, the Dynon display voltage drops and every time the noise goes away the Dynon display voltage rises. > > After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and watching this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9 volts on the battery. > > The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the Aeroelectric Connection. > > Thoughts or suggestions? > > Thanks! > > Justin > > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 12:22:35 PM PST US From: Justin Jones Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise > On Apr 29, 2016, at 11:07, John Tipton wrote: > > > What's a 'fluke meter' > > John > > Sent from my iPad > > ----x--O--x---- It is a Fluke brand digital multimeter. Justin > >> On 29 Apr 2016, at 07:18 pm, Justin Jones wrote: >> >> >> Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise. >> >> My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator (60A Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the EFII programmer reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8. >> >> When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an intermittent noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the noise is a low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII programmer still reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes away and the voltage comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will continue to cycle with no predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise, the Dynon display voltage drops and every time the noise goes away the Dynon display voltage rises. >> >> After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and watching this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9 volts on the battery. >> >> The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the Aeroelectric Connection. >> >> Thoughts or suggestions? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Justin > > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 12:26:37 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise From: Lyle Peterson Fluke is a brand of a series of multi-meters usually considered to be of high quality. On 4/29/2016 2:07 PM, John Tipton wrote: > > What's a 'fluke meter' > > John > > Sent from my iPad > > ----x--O--x---- > >> On 29 Apr 2016, at 07:18 pm, Justin Jones wrote: >> >> >> Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise. >> >> My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator (60A Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the EFII programmer reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8. >> >> When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an intermittent noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the noise is a low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII programmer still reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes away and the voltage comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will continue to cycle with no predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise, the Dynon display voltage drops and every time the noise goes away the Dynon display voltage rises. >> >> After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and watching this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9 volts on the battery. >> >> The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the Aeroelectric Connection. >> >> Thoughts or suggestions? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Justin >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 01:12:47 PM PST US From: "Rene" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise It is what you call a bad multi-meter when you are in mixed company. :) Do not archive. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lyle Peterson Sent: Friday, April 29, 2016 1:25 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise --> Fluke is a brand of a series of multi-meters usually considered to be of high quality. On 4/29/2016 2:07 PM, John Tipton wrote: > > What's a 'fluke meter' > > John > > Sent from my iPad > > ----x--O--x---- > >> On 29 Apr 2016, at 07:18 pm, Justin Jones wrote: >> >> >> Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise. >> >> My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator (60A Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the EFII programmer reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8. >> >> When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an intermittent noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the noise is a low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII programmer still reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes away and the voltage comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will continue to cycle with no predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise, the Dynon display voltage drops and every time the noise goes away the Dynon display voltage rises. >> >> After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and watching this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9 volts on the battery. >> >> The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the Aeroelectric Connection. >> >> Thoughts or suggestions? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Justin >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 01:39:40 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: B&C 200G Alternator From: Clive Richards Joe Ref item 1 Efraim drawing shows the inline fuse in the alternator AC output wire before the regulator I would put it their with a 15 fuse on the distribution block connecting to the relay com as his drawing. Efraim I would twist the AC wires from the alternator output to the regulator as your note 2. as I assume this is a simple aircraft with very little load this alternator should be large enough we use a smaller one on our 0200 with no problem (we have MAGS, Mechanical Fuel Pump ,Icom A22 radio, trig transponder, backup electric fuel pump,strobes) Clive On 29 April 2016 at 19:42, user9253 wrote: > > Ephraim > > 1. Yes, cut the red wire and connect one end to the power distribution bus > in place of the circuit breaker that is labeled 15A for 200G. The other > end of the red wire connects to the COM terminal of the relay. > > 2. Yes, 14 AWG. > > 3. COM stands for "common" on the relay. The "COM" pole is the moving > part of the relay. It connects to the N.O. terminal when the relay is > energized and connects to the N.C. terminal when the relay is not energized. > > 4. Yes, use a fuse block. However, if you install a crowbar over-voltage > module, that circuit should have a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. With > normal aircraft loads, a small 12 amp alternator will be working hard to > maintain voltage, let alone producing over-voltage. > > 5. Are both positive and negative battery terminals connected directly to > the starter? If you are talking about only the negative, then leave it > attached to the starter. Install an additional ground wire from the > battery negative to the firewall. Use a brass bolt and install a forest of > ground tabs on the other side of the firewall connected to that same brass > bolt. > > 6. See diagram Z-11 in Bob's book for connecting the starter to the > battery. If your plane does not have a master contactor, then the starter > contactor can be connected directly to the battery positive. Although it > is recommended to also have a master contactor. Z-11 also shows the > magneto switches which also connect to the starter contactor. From the > main power bus, follow the wire from the "START 7A" fuse. > > A 12 amp alternator is not very big. Do you have another larger > alternator too? > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455632#455632 > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:57:39 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: diodes From: "Edwardoc" At the risk of being shot I have a question concerning how to hook a diode to my new starter contact. I am replacing the one that came from Vans in 2005 with a Lamar brand contractor but the coil lugs are not labeled S & I like the old one. I think I have figured out which side of the coil is the 12-V input and the other one I think hooks to ground. Lamar web site shows two types of hookups depending on a negative or positive switching but not sure where to hook the diode to for the positive switching wiring. On the old contractor one of the coil lugs was internally grounded but on the Lamar neither one is. Any inputs. Couldn't find anything in my searches. After reading about contractors and voltage spikes, I may have some burned contacts on my key starting switch as I did not install a diode on the starter contractor on 2006 and have been having trouble on and off for two years with my starter acting like it is getting low voltage even though all the voltages check OK under load. Starter has been rebuilt by SkyTec. The problem is on some starts the pinion gear moves forward on the Sky Tec LS starter but not with enough force to engage the gears on the flywheel and thus the starter motor does not turn. Sometimes holding the key on will cause it to finally engage and start. Other times it works fine both hot and cold engine. Other times it will not engage at all unless someone moves the prop slightly while I hold the starter key on and then it engages and the starter cranks the engine fine. Changing the contractor just to eliminate that as a cause before replacing the key starter switch. 8) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455644#455644 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 02:34:32 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: diodes From: Charlie England On Fri, Apr 29, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Edwardoc wrote: > > At the risk of being shot I have a question concerning how to hook a diode > to my new starter contact. I am replacing the one that came from Vans in > 2005 with a Lamar brand contractor but the coil lugs are not labeled S & I > like the old one. I think I have figured out which side of the coil is the > 12-V input and the other one I think hooks to ground. Lamar web site shows > two types of hookups depending on a negative or positive switching but not > sure where to hook the diode to for the positive switching wiring. On the > old contractor one of the coil lugs was internally grounded but on the > Lamar neither one is. Any inputs. Couldn't find anything in my searches. > > After reading about contractors and voltage spikes, I may have some burned > contacts on my key starting switch as I did not install a diode on the > starter contractor on 2006 and have been having trouble on and off for two > years with my starter acting like it is getting low voltage even though all > the voltages check OK under load. Starter has been rebuilt by SkyTec. > The problem is on some starts the pinion gear moves forward on the Sky Tec > LS starter but not with enough force to engage the gears on the flywheel > and thus the starter motor does not turn. Sometimes holding the key on > will cause it to finally engage and start. Other times it works fine both > hot and cold engine. Other times it will not engage at all unless someone > moves the prop slightly while I hold the starter key on and then it engages > and the starter cranks the engine fine. > Changing the contractor just to eliminate that as a cause before replacing > the key starter switch. 8) > > > If the pinion teeth actually engage the flywheel teeth, but it doesn't turn, then either the starter motor is defective (unlikely, if intermittent) or it isn't seeing full battery voltage. That can be caused by dirty/corroded crimps, terminals, etc, anywhere between the battery positive post and the battery negative post. In other words, don't forget to check the ground path, too. It can also be caused by defective contacts in the solenoid that's mounted on the starter itself. Make yourself an extension wire & hook one end to the heavy B+ terminal on the starter and the other end to your volt meter positive lead. hold the meter negative *directly* on the battery negative post (not on the connector). Push the start button. You should see 8-10 volts on the meter if the prop turns. If it doesn't turn, and you see less than 9 volts, you've got either a bad connection somewhere or a bad battery. Use the ohm meter function to check the separate starter contactor. It should have 2 big & 1 or 2 small terminals. Measure resistance from the metal frame to each small terminal. If one of them is tied to the frame, it will read near zero ohms on your meter. The other would then read ~4-6 ohms to ground. If one reads 4-6 ohms to the frame, and the other reads open circuit (infinite resistance), then you've got a contactor with S & I terminals. In either case, hook up your diode so the arrow points toward the terminal that reads 4-6 ohms to ground. That is also where you'll hook your control line from your starter switch. B+ from bus to switch to contactor terminal. The other end of the diode goes to ground/frame. Note that if neither terminal shows low/no resistance to ground, but you read 15-20 ohms between the small terminals, you probably don't have a starter contactor. It's likely a master contactor. Will maybe work for a while, but life may be short. ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 02:38:13 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: B&C 200G Alternator From: "user9253" Clive, you are correct that there is a fuse in the alternator AC output. I did not notice that before. However, a fuse at that location serves no useful purpose in my opinion and is an unnecessary failure point. The fuse at the power bus will protect the battery and will protect wires going to the charging system. A permanent magnet alternator is self current limiting. Equal size fuses in series is not recommended. There are hundreds of Rotax powered RV-12s that have no fuse located in the dynamo AC output. Van's Aircraft designed the electrical system and RV-12s must be wired exactly per the plans if registered as E-LSA. Bob's Z-16 does not have a fuse in the AC output. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455648#455648 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 03:03:23 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: diodes From: "user9253" Connect the diode directly across the two small terminals on the Lamar contactor with the arrow (banded end) pointing towards positive. As far as polarity of the small terminals, it does not matter. (if I am looking at the correct datasheet) http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/lamarsolenoidinstall.pdf Check terminals for tightness and corrosion on all fat wires between the battery and starter, both positive and negative (ground). -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455650#455650 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:44:37 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise From: Lyle Peterson It is a meter that measures the number of flukes in a given period of time. On 4/29/2016 3:10 PM, Rene wrote: > > It is what you call a bad multi-meter when you are in mixed company. :) > > Do not archive. > > Rene' > 801-721-6080 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lyle > Peterson > Sent: Friday, April 29, 2016 1:25 PM > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise > > --> > > Fluke is a brand of a series of multi-meters usually considered to be of > high quality. > > > On 4/29/2016 2:07 PM, John Tipton wrote: > >> What's a 'fluke meter' >> >> John >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> ----x--O--x---- >> >>> On 29 Apr 2016, at 07:18 pm, Justin Jones > wrote: > >>> Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise. >>> >>> My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator > (60A Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the > EFII programmer reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8. >>> When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an > intermittent noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the > noise is a low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII > programmer still reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes > away and the voltage comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will > continue to cycle with no predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise, > the Dynon display voltage drops and every time the noise goes away the Dynon > display voltage rises. >>> After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and > watching this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9 > volts on the battery. >>> The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the > Aeroelectric Connection. >>> Thoughts or suggestions? >>> >>> Thanks! >>> >>> Justin >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:23:16 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: 24V B&C starter current? At 12:35 PM 4/29/2016, you wrote: > >Hello AeroElectric, > >Does anyone have data on the approximate starting current for the >24V B&C starter? > >I spoke with B&C briefly and the best data they have easily >available is 250-300A. This was higher than I was expecting. For >example, Skytec claims 85-125A on their 24V NL/ec starter. Depending on the size of the engine, temperatures and engine condition, both figures may be correct . . . but different for another engine/wiring combination. As a general rule, we don't concern ourselves with the actual numbers for cranking current . . . because it varies so much on an airplane by airplane basis. What we DO concentrate on is battery condition. A fresh, off-the-shelf 18 a.h. SLVA battery shouldn't even breath hard to dump 600-700 amps at 9v. Keeping voltage drops in the cranking current circuits low is the secret to getting the most from what ever battery you choose . . . If I were asked to put a figure of merit on starter A vs. starter B vs. starter C. I'd have to load them with a constant torque representative of a worst case engine (6 cycl lyc cold soaked) then measure rpm at load and watt-seconds consumed for some benchmark cranking interval . . . say 10 seconds. But after posting figures for the three devices, I'm betting the percentage of market share for the different offerings would not change materially. Compared to boat-anchor Prestolites, the cranking performance for all modern starters is so much better for less weight that energy consumed is irrelevant. No starter will require more than 5% of total energy contained in an 18 a.h. battery to get a well tuned engine running. So if the three samples took 1.8, 2.3 and 2.9 percent of total energy, it's more likely that the builder would choose the least expensive with an acceptable field performance as opposed to any choices about conserving watt-seconds. What is the basis for your concerns? Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 04:30:13 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: B&C 200G Alternator From: "user9253" Now that I see that B&C intended that inline fuse to be installed in the alternator AC output, I am changing my advice to not use at all. A fuse located at the main power bus (fuseblock) is all that is needed. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455657#455657 ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 05:07:08 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise From: Hal Benjamin Fluke is a good meter....Sorta like a Simpson meter was before Bart came along! Sent from my iPad > On Apr 29, 2016, at 6:43 PM, Lyle Peterson wrote: > > > It is a meter that measures the number of flukes in a given period of time. > > >> On 4/29/2016 3:10 PM, Rene wrote: >> >> It is what you call a bad multi-meter when you are in mixed company. :) >> >> Do not archive. >> >> Rene' >> 801-721-6080 >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lyle >> Peterson >> Sent: Friday, April 29, 2016 1:25 PM >> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Alternator Noise >> >> --> >> >> Fluke is a brand of a series of multi-meters usually considered to be of >> high quality. >> >> >>> On 4/29/2016 2:07 PM, John Tipton wrote: >> >>> What's a 'fluke meter' >>> >>> John >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> >>> ----x--O--x---- >>> >>>> On 29 Apr 2016, at 07:18 pm, Justin Jones >> wrote: >> >>>> Need help troubleshooting an intermittent noise. >>>> >>>> My aircraft is wired per Bob's 13-8 diagram. When the primary alternator >> (60A Lycoming alternator) is running, all is well. Everything works, the >> EFII programmer reads 14.3-14.5 volts and the Dynon EMS-D180 reads 13.8. >>>> When I turn off the main alternator and test the B&C-410H there is an >> intermittent noise (wine and static in the intercom). Associated with the >> noise is a low voltage indication on the Dynon (11.5 volts) but the EFII >> programmer still reads 14.3-14.5 volts. After a few minutes, the noise goes >> away and the voltage comes up to 13.8 on the Dynon. The situation will >> continue to cycle with no predictable pattern. Every time I get the noise, >> the Dynon display voltage drops and every time the noise goes away the Dynon >> display voltage rises. >>>> After performing an hour long test flight on the B&C alternator and >> watching this cycle, I shut the aircraft down and a fluke meter showed 12.9 >> volts on the battery. >>>> The regulators are both solid state VR166 as Bob suggests in the >> Aeroelectric Connection. >>>> Thoughts or suggestions? >>>> >>>> Thanks! >>>> >>>> Justin > > > > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 07:06:28 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: diodes From: "Edwardoc" Thanks much. Now I understand. :D Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455660#455660 ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 07:39:03 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Intermittent Alternator Noise From: "user9253" The vast majority of electrical problems are caused by bad connections. So check every connection for corrosion and tightness. Try interchanging the two voltage regulators to see what happens. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455663#455663 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message aeroelectric-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.