Today's Message Index:
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1. 10:25 AM - Re: Re: B&C 200G Alternator (Efraim Otero)
2. 01:39 PM - Re: Re: B&C 200G Alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 02:24 PM - finding the correct crimper (Ken Ryan)
4. 03:26 PM - Re: Re: B&C 200G Alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 03:31 PM - Re: finding the correct crimper (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 03:45 PM - Re: finding the correct crimper (Ken Ryan)
7. 05:10 PM - Re: finding the correct crimper (user9253)
8. 09:35 PM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (ashleysc@broadstripe.net)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: B&C 200G Alternator |
Joe:
Many thanks for the advice. Yes, the idea is to power a Flightline 760
VHF radio, a Sandia STX transponder and a dual plug cigarrette lighter
plus for iphone and ipad Plain day vfr.
> On Apr 29, 2016, at 3:37 PM, Clive Richards
<stephencliverichards@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Joe Ref item 1 Efraim drawing shows the inline fuse in the alternator
AC output wire before the regulator I would put it their with a 15 fuse
on the distribution block connecting to the relay com as his drawing.
>
> Efraim I would twist the AC wires from the alternator output to the
regulator as your note 2. as I assume this is a simple aircraft with
very little load this alternator should be large enough we use a smaller
one on our 0200 with no problem (we have MAGS, Mechanical Fuel Pump
,Icom A22 radio, trig transponder, backup electric fuel pump,strobes)
> Clive
>
> On 29 April 2016 at 19:42, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com
<mailto:fransew@gmail.com>> wrote:
<mailto:fransew@gmail.com>>
>
> Ephraim
>
> 1. Yes, cut the red wire and connect one end to the power distribution
bus in place of the circuit breaker that is labeled 15A for 200G. The
other end of the red wire connects to the COM terminal of the relay.
>
> 2. Yes, 14 AWG.
>
> 3. COM stands for "common" on the relay. The "COM" pole is the moving
part of the relay. It connects to the N.O. terminal when the relay is
energized and connects to the N.C. terminal when the relay is not
energized.
>
> 4. Yes, use a fuse block. However, if you install a crowbar
over-voltage module, that circuit should have a circuit breaker instead
of a fuse. With normal aircraft loads, a small 12 amp alternator will
be working hard to maintain voltage, let alone producing over-voltage.
>
> 5. Are both positive and negative battery terminals connected directly
to the starter? If you are talking about only the negative, then leave
it attached to the starter. Install an additional ground wire from the
battery negative to the firewall. Use a brass bolt and install a forest
of ground tabs on the other side of the firewall connected to that same
brass bolt.
>
> 6. See diagram Z-11 in Bob's book for connecting the starter to the
battery. If your plane does not have a master contactor, then the
starter contactor can be connected directly to the battery positive.
Although it is recommended to also have a master contactor. Z-11 also
shows the magneto switches which also connect to the starter contactor.
=46rom the main power bus, follow the wire from the "START 7A" fuse.
>
> A 12 amp alternator is not very big. Do you have another larger
alternator too?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455632#455632
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455632#455632>
>
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: B&C 200G Alternator |
At 12:23 PM 5/2/2016, you wrote:
>Joe:
>Many thanks for the advice. Yes, the idea is to
>power a Flightline 760 VHF radio, a Sandia STX
>transponder and a dual plug cigarrette lighter
>plus for iphone and ipad=85 Plain day vfr.
I'll suggest figure z-16 as a baseline architecture
for your airplane.
http://tinyurl.com/7vp9g4e
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | finding the correct crimper |
Attached are two pictures, one shows the type of terminals I am trying to
crimp, the other shows the three crimpers I have bought, none of which
works on these terminals.
The terminals, as best I can determine, are Delphi AF Female Unsealed
#12131456 (for wire 18-22). They are to be used in a fuse block with the
terminal being the output side of the fuse holder.
The blue handled crimper is the one sold to me when I bought the fuse block
and terminals. The red handled crimper is one that I bought from SteinAir
after the red ones didn't work. The other crimper is a Delphi that I bought
from Mouser after researching the terminals (and failing with the SteinAir
crimper). None of these crimpers even comes close to working. I am
inexperienced, but I have crimped "regular" Molex type terminals using the
blue handled crimpers, no problem. Everything worked just as expected with
the ears turning to dive into the wire strands, etc. But I have ruined at
least 10-15 terminals trying to get a satisfactory crimp with these three
tools, and none of them seems to work properly. Please see attached
pictures. Thanks for any help and advice.
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: B&C 200G Alternator |
At 12:23 PM 5/2/2016, you wrote:
>Joe:
>Many thanks for the advice. Yes, the idea is to
>power a Flightline 760 VHF radio, a Sandia STX
>transponder and a dual plug cigarrette lighter
>plus for iphone and ipad=85 Plain day vfr.
I'll suggest figure z-16 as a baseline architecture
for your airplane.
http://tinyurl.com/7vp9g4e
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
At 04:22 PM 5/2/2016, you wrote:
>Attached are two pictures, one shows the type of
>terminals I am trying to crimp, the other shows
>the three crimpers I have bought, none of which works on these terminals.
>
>The terminals, as best I can determine, are
>Delphi AF Female Unsealed #12131456 (for wire
>18-22). They are to be used in a fuse block with
>the terminal being the output side of the fuse holder.=C2
>
>The blue handled crimper is the one sold to me
>when I bought the fuse block and terminals. The
>red handled crimper is one that I bought from
>SteinAir after the red ones didn't work. The
>other crimper is a Delphi that I bought from
>Mouser after researching the terminals (and
>failing with the SteinAir crimper). None of
>these crimpers even comes close to working. I am
>inexperienced, but I have crimped "regular"
>Molex type terminals using the blue handled
>crimpers, no problem. Everything worked just as
>expected with the ears turning to dive into the
>wire strands, etc. But I have ruined at least
>10-15 terminals trying to get a satisfactory
>crimp with these three tools, and none of them
>seems to work properly. Please see attached
>pictures. Thanks for any help and advice.
Getting the perfect 'curl-over' with b-crimps
is a bit problematic . . . especially if the
terminal material is thick. My friend Dave
Swartzendruber used to sell that fuse block
to Ford Bronco restoration enthusiasts . . .
I'll drop Dave a note and see what his
experience was with those parts.
Do you have or can you get any extra terminals
as loose parts?
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
I still have a few extra terminals. Mouser seems to have a minimum order of
20,000 pieces!
On Monday, May 2, 2016, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 04:22 PM 5/2/2016, you wrote:
>
> Attached are two pictures, one shows the type of terminals I am trying to
> crimp, the other shows the three crimpers I have bought, none of which
> works on these terminals.
>
> The terminals, as best I can determine, are Delphi AF Female Unsealed
> #12131456 (for wire 18-22). They are to be used in a fuse block with the
> terminal being the output side of the fuse holder.=C3=82
>
> The blue handled crimper is the one sold to me when I bought the fuse
> block and terminals. The red handled crimper is one that I bought from
> SteinAir after the red ones didn't work. The other crimper is a Delphi th
at
> I bought from Mouser after researching the terminals (and failing with th
e
> SteinAir crimper). None of these crimpers even comes close to working. I
am
> inexperienced, but I have crimped "regular" Molex type terminals using th
e
> blue handled crimpers, no problem. Everything worked just as expected wit
h
> the ears turning to dive into the wire strands, etc. But I have ruined at
> least 10-15 terminals trying to get a satisfactory crimp with these three
> tools, and none of them seems to work properly. Please see attached
> pictures. Thanks for any help and advice.
>
>
> Getting the perfect 'curl-over' with b-crimps
> is a bit problematic . . . especially if the
> terminal material is thick. My friend Dave
> Swartzendruber used to sell that fuse block
> to Ford Bronco restoration enthusiasts . . .
> I'll drop Dave a note and see what his
> experience was with those parts.
>
> Do you have or can you get any extra terminals
> as loose parts?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
Waytek sells the terminals, minimum 50.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455777#455777
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
Hi;
I suggest the following sequence:
1. Strip off about 5/8" to bare the conductor.
2. Turn the bare conductor back over the insulation to guarantee good contact
within the terminal.
3. I noticed there is too much flare on your terminals, so close the flare to
at least parallel with pliers. If you don't do this the terminal won't enter
the die properly.
4. Insert the wire into the terminal with the bare conductor deepest into the
terminal.
5. Crimp the terminal. The final result should look like a U with the legs turned
inward almost 180 degrees. These turned inward legs probably will cut through
the insulation and make contact with the conductor. They're supposed to,
but with the method outlined the connection will function regardless.
Cheers! Stu.
----- Original Message -----
From: "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, May 2, 2016 5:08:42 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper
Waytek sells the terminals, minimum 50.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455777#455777
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