Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:57 AM - Re: B&C 200G Alternator (Clive Richards)
2. 07:52 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Ken Ryan)
3. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Ken Ryan)
4. 08:17 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 08:43 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Ken Ryan)
6. 09:03 AM - Re: B&C 200G Alternator (Efraim Otero)
7. 09:05 AM - 12v to 24v (jonlaury)
8. 10:08 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Robert McCallum)
9. 10:43 AM - Re: finding the correct crimper (user9253)
10. 11:06 AM - Re: 12v to 24v (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 11:14 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 12:12 PM - Re: 12v to 24v (Charlie England)
13. 12:26 PM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Ken Ryan)
14. 01:31 PM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 01:39 PM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Ken Ryan)
16. 04:39 PM - airframe ground (bob noffs)
17. 06:02 PM - Re: airframe ground (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: B&C 200G Alternator |
Efraim I have since checked & found we actually fitted the B & C 200G
alternator to our 0200 12.5 amp output not smaller as I thought.
From what you have said your continental starter may be operated by a
mechanical cable pull to start direct to a power switch by the starter, you
could retain this if you wish. I assume this uses battery negative earth as
current systems.
Clive
On 29 April 2016 at 18:25, Efraim Otero <efraim.otero@gmail.com> wrote:
> Dear All:
> I bought a 200G alternador to install a in my wooden celebrity biplane=C2
=B4s
> O200 Continental engine. It has a Skytec Starter that is powered by a
> powersonic 12 V 18 AmpHr Battery.
> I received a schematic drawing for a simple day VFR electrical system
> (attached).
>
>
> I have some very newbie questions:
>
> 1) I received an =9Cinline fuse holder=9D picture also attach
ed. This comes be
>
>
> This goes between and cabled to the alternador B lead to carry that 15
> amp fuse before the firewall and the voltaje regulator?
> If so, how do I connect it_ do I cut the red wire and splice it to the on
e
> coming out of the alternator? What gauge aire should I use as there is no
> mention of any AWG size?
>
> 2) What wire to use between the capacitar and the S8005-1? 14 AWG same as
> ground?
> 3) in the S8005-1 what does that =9CCOM=9D diagram mean?
> 4) The power distribuci=C3=B3n bus: can I use a fuse block with fast on
tabs?
> 5) my battery is conecten directly to the starter. Should I reroute the
> negative pole to ground? What soul I use as ground, the steel firewall? T
he
> steel/aluminum landing gear?
> 6) how/where does the starter fit in this diagram?
>
> Please help as you can see I am clueless about electriza systems
(even
> though I read Bob=C2=B4s bookI feel like I=C2=B4m being taught
in Russian! That is
> obviously my very own weakeness not the book=C2=B4s!!!!)
>
> Thank you all,
>
> Ephraim
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
Thanks Joe.
> Waytek sells the terminals, minimum 50.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
Thanks Stu, I'll give it a try.
On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 8:33 PM, <ashleysc@broadstripe.net> wrote:
>
>
> Hi;
> I suggest the following sequence:
> 1. Strip off about 5/8" to bare the conductor.
> 2. Turn the bare conductor back over the insulation to guarantee good
> contact within the terminal.
> 3. I noticed there is too much flare on your terminals, so close the
> flare to at least parallel with pliers. If you don't do this the terminal
> won't enter the die properly.
> 4. Insert the wire into the terminal with the bare conductor deepest into
> the terminal.
> 5. Crimp the terminal. The final result should look like a U with the
> legs turned inward almost 180 degrees. These turned inward legs probably
> will cut through the insulation and make contact with the conductor.
> They're supposed to, but with the method outlined the connection will
> function regardless.
> Cheers! Stu.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455777#455777
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
At 07:08 PM 5/2/2016, you wrote:
>
>Waytek sells the terminals, minimum 50.
I poked around on there a bit and didn't
find them . . . can you shoot me a link?
Thanks!
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
They are showing a different part number than mouser, but this looks like
them:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/30038/Delphi-12020334-Pack-Con-Female-Loose-Terminal-/
On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 7:16 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 07:08 PM 5/2/2016, you wrote:
>
>
> Waytek sells the terminals, minimum 50.
>
>
> I poked around on there a bit and didn't
> find them . . . can you shoot me a link?
> Thanks!
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: B&C 200G Alternator |
Clive:
Thank you for your feedback. I have an O 200 with a skytec lightweight
starter that came with the plane when I bought it.
The battery is a powersonic 12 v 18 Ah. I have a starter switch and a
battery switch plus a key switch for both mags and start. I just want to
charge the battery and run the transponder which dar=C3=A1s about 210
milliamps. I have a coms panel transceiver, Flightline 760 VHF and I am
debating whether installing my Sporty=99s SP400 handheld (for VOR
and ILS nav crosschecking:). Other than that I need a few USB
charging porta for ipad and iphone. No lights. So I think the loads will
be light.
Any thoughts?
Thank you all.
E
> On May 3, 2016, at 5:54 AM, Clive Richards
<stephencliverichards@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Efraim I have since checked & found we actually fitted the B & C 200G
alternator to our 0200 12.5 amp output not smaller as I thought.
=46rom what you have said your continental starter may be operated by a
mechanical cable pull to start direct to a power switch by the starter,
you could retain this if you wish. I assume this uses battery negative
earth as current systems.
> Clive
>
> On 29 April 2016 at 18:25, Efraim Otero <efraim.otero@gmail.com
<mailto:efraim.otero@gmail.com>> wrote:
> Dear All:
> I bought a 200G alternador to install a in my wooden celebrity
biplane=C2=B4s O200 Continental engine. It has a Skytec Starter that is
powered by a powersonic 12 V 18 AmpHr Battery.
> I received a schematic drawing for a simple day VFR electrical system
(attached).
>
>
> <IMG_3825.jpg>
>
> I have some very newbie questions:
>
> 1) I received an =9Cinline fuse holder=9D picture also
attached. This comes be
>
> <IMG_0209.JPG>
>
> This goes between and cabled to the alternador B lead to carry that
15 amp fuse before the firewall and the voltaje regulator?
> If so, how do I connect it_ do I cut the red wire and splice it to the
one coming out of the alternator? What gauge aire should I use as there
is no mention of any AWG size?
>
> 2) What wire to use between the capacitar and the S8005-1? 14 AWG same
as ground?
> 3) in the S8005-1 what does that =9CCOM=9D diagram mean?
> 4) The power distribuci=C3=B3n bus: can I use a fuse block with fast
on tabs?
> 5) my battery is conecten directly to the starter. Should I reroute
the negative pole to ground? What soul I use as ground, the steel
firewall? The steel/aluminum landing gear?
> 6) how/where does the starter fit in this diagram?
>
> Please help as you can see I am clueless about electriza
systems (even though I read Bob=C2=B4s bookI feel like I=C2=B4m
being taught in Russian! That is obviously my very own weakeness not
the book=C2=B4s!!!!)
>
> Thank you all,
>
> Ephraim
>
>
Message 7
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|
What's the simplest way to driving two 24v solenoids of 7w each, from my 12v system?
Thanks,
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455802#455802
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
Stu;
If I interpret your explanation correctly, you're advocating trapping the
insulation along with the wire strands in the wire part of the crimp?? If this
is the case DO NOT DO IT. The wire part of the crimp is intended to provide a
homogeneous gas tight mass of copper for long term electrical continuity. Having
insulation material within this portion of the crimp will seriously compromise
the integrity of the connection by allowing air and moisture infiltration. The
insulation should only be within the insulation portion of the crimp and ONLY
the bare copper strands should be in the wire portion of the crimp.
Bob McC
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: ashleysc@broadstripe.net
> Date: May 3, 2016 at 12:33 AM
>
>
>
> Hi;
> I suggest the following sequence:
> 1. Strip off about 5/8" to bare the conductor.
> 2. Turn the bare conductor back over the insulation to guarantee good contact
> within the terminal.
> 3. I noticed there is too much flare on your terminals, so close the flare to
> at least parallel with pliers. If you don't do this the terminal won't enter
> the die properly.
> 4. Insert the wire into the terminal with the bare conductor deepest into the
> terminal.
> 5. Crimp the terminal. The final result should look like a U with the legs
> turned inward almost 180 degrees. These turned inward legs probably will cut
> through the insulation and make contact with the conductor. They're supposed
> to, but with the method outlined the connection will function regardless.
> Cheers! Stu.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, May 2, 2016 5:08:42 PM
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper
>
>
> Waytek sells the terminals, minimum 50.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455777#455777
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
I agree with Bob McC. Do not crimp insulation and bare wire together.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455812#455812
Message 10
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At 11:04 AM 5/3/2016, you wrote:
>
>What's the simplest way to driving two 24v solenoids of 7w each,
>from my 12v system?
What kind of solenoids? The 'simplest' is probably
to change out for 12v devices. An 'up-converter'
is parts intensive and potential radio noise
source.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
At 10:41 AM 5/3/2016, you wrote:
>They are showing a different part number than mouser, but this looks
>like them:
>
><https://www.waytekwire.com/item/30038/Delphi-12020334-Pack-Con-Female-Loose-Terminal-/>https://www.waytekwire.com/item/30038/Delphi-12020334-Pack-Con-Female-Loose-Terminal-/
aha! thanks. got some on order . . . but my sense
is that these are no different than the broad
family of open barrel terminals. I'll play with
them a bit and perhaps do a comic-book on them
. . . and yes . . . gas-tight, metal on metal
joints in the wire grip is the design goal.
Gentle bear-hug in the insulation grip. Here's
a similar process on a smaller scale.
http://tinyurl.com/9c444zm
Bob . . .
Message 12
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On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 11:04 AM, jonlaury <jonlaury@impulse.net> wrote:
>
> What's the simplest way to driving two 24v solenoids of 7w each, from my
> 12v system?
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
At the risk of sounding flippant, the simplest way is to replace them with
12v solenoids.
What do they control; are they mechanical actuators, or contactors for
handling higher current than the control can handle? If they are actuators
and you can identify them by part number, you might even be able to get 12v
coils for them.
If all the above fails, google for '12v to 24v converter', or just search
ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Converter-Regulator-12V-Step-Up-to-24V-3A-72W-/130539974423?hash=item1e64c9ef17:m:mxx-mrNrqLUZYfP7BAucyNA
Charlie
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
Bob, I used your instructions for crimping regular molex terminals and it
all worked perfectly, but these thicker, tougher terminals just won't
cooperate. Here's a link on delphi to a "crimp information sheet"
http://delphi.com/docs/default-source/ecatalog-documents/12131456-crimpinformationsheet-pdf.pdf?Status=Master&sfvrsn=0
I could not find anything helpful on it.
On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 10:12 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 10:41 AM 5/3/2016, you wrote:
>
> They are showing a different part number than mouser, but this looks like
> them:
>
>
> https://www.waytekwire.com/item/30038/Delphi-12020334-Pack-Con-Female-Loose-Terminal-/
>
>
> aha! thanks. got some on order . . . but my sense
> is that these are no different than the broad
> family of open barrel terminals. I'll play with
> them a bit and perhaps do a comic-book on them
>
> . . . and yes . . . gas-tight, metal on metal
> joints in the wire grip is the design goal.
> Gentle bear-hug in the insulation grip. Here's
> a similar process on a smaller scale.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/9c444zm
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
At 02:24 PM 5/3/2016, you wrote:
>Bob, I used your instructions for crimping regular molex terminals
>and it all worked perfectly, but these thicker, tougher terminals
>just won't cooperate. Here's a link on delphi to a "crimp information sheet"
>
><http://delphi.com/docs/default-source/ecatalog-documents/12131456-crimpinformationsheet-pdf.pdf?Status=Master&sfvrsn=0>http://delphi.com/docs/default-source/ecatalog-documents/12131456-crimpinformationsheet-pdf.pdf?Status=Master&sfvrsn=0
>
>I could not find anything helpful on it.
Me neither . . . as soon as my samples
are in, I'll get some hands-on calibration
for the task. Watch this space . . .
Bob . . .
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
I've been able to further determine that these terminals are "Series III
Pack-Con" variety and have ordered an expensive crimper that is supposed to
work on them. Soon I will be opening a lightly used crimper store.
On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 9:42 AM, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I agree with Bob McC. Do not crimp insulation and bare wire together.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455812#455812
>
>
Message 16
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i am building a rv12 and i am putting a set of led land lights and led nav/
strobes.vans provides airframe grounds for their lights. of course the
instructions i got with mine were for wires to ground. no shielded wire as
mfgr said not needed. man, those airframe grounds look so easy. am i
risking noise?
bob noffs
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: airframe ground |
At 06:36 PM 5/3/2016, you wrote:
>i am building a rv12 and i am putting a set of led land lights and
>led nav/ strobes.vans provides airframe grounds for their lights. of
>course the instructions i got with mine were for wires to ground. no
>shielded wire as mfgr said not needed. man, those airframe grounds
>look so easy. am i risking noise?
No. These things are not strong CONDUCTED
antagonists and controlling radiated emissions
at the landing light's enclosure is stone
simple. Follow the instructions . . .
Bob . . .
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