---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 05/03/16: 17 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:57 AM - Re: B&C 200G Alternator (Clive Richards) 2. 07:52 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Ken Ryan) 3. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Ken Ryan) 4. 08:17 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 5. 08:43 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Ken Ryan) 6. 09:03 AM - Re: B&C 200G Alternator (Efraim Otero) 7. 09:05 AM - 12v to 24v (jonlaury) 8. 10:08 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Robert McCallum) 9. 10:43 AM - Re: finding the correct crimper (user9253) 10. 11:06 AM - Re: 12v to 24v (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 11. 11:14 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 12. 12:12 PM - Re: 12v to 24v (Charlie England) 13. 12:26 PM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Ken Ryan) 14. 01:31 PM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 15. 01:39 PM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Ken Ryan) 16. 04:39 PM - airframe ground (bob noffs) 17. 06:02 PM - Re: airframe ground (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:57:54 AM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: B&C 200G Alternator From: Clive Richards Efraim I have since checked & found we actually fitted the B & C 200G alternator to our 0200 12.5 amp output not smaller as I thought. From what you have said your continental starter may be operated by a mechanical cable pull to start direct to a power switch by the starter, you could retain this if you wish. I assume this uses battery negative earth as current systems. Clive On 29 April 2016 at 18:25, Efraim Otero wrote: > Dear All: > I bought a 200G alternador to install a in my wooden celebrity biplane=C2 =B4s > O200 Continental engine. It has a Skytec Starter that is powered by a > powersonic 12 V 18 AmpHr Battery. > I received a schematic drawing for a simple day VFR electrical system > (attached). > > > I have some very newbie questions: > > 1) I received an =9Cinline fuse holder=9D picture also attach ed. This comes be > > > This goes between and cabled to the alternador B lead to carry that 15 > amp fuse before the firewall and the voltaje regulator? > If so, how do I connect it_ do I cut the red wire and splice it to the on e > coming out of the alternator? What gauge aire should I use as there is no > mention of any AWG size? > > 2) What wire to use between the capacitar and the S8005-1? 14 AWG same as > ground? > 3) in the S8005-1 what does that =9CCOM=9D diagram mean? > 4) The power distribuci=C3=B3n bus: can I use a fuse block with fast on tabs? > 5) my battery is conecten directly to the starter. Should I reroute the > negative pole to ground? What soul I use as ground, the steel firewall? T he > steel/aluminum landing gear? > 6) how/where does the starter fit in this diagram? > > Please help as you can see I am clueless about electriza systems (even > though I read Bob=C2=B4s bookI feel like I=C2=B4m being taught in Russian! That is > obviously my very own weakeness not the book=C2=B4s!!!!) > > Thank you all, > > Ephraim > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:52:41 AM PST US From: Ken Ryan Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper Thanks Joe. > Waytek sells the terminals, minimum 50. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:53:09 AM PST US From: Ken Ryan Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper Thanks Stu, I'll give it a try. On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 8:33 PM, wrote: > > > Hi; > I suggest the following sequence: > 1. Strip off about 5/8" to bare the conductor. > 2. Turn the bare conductor back over the insulation to guarantee good > contact within the terminal. > 3. I noticed there is too much flare on your terminals, so close the > flare to at least parallel with pliers. If you don't do this the terminal > won't enter the die properly. > 4. Insert the wire into the terminal with the bare conductor deepest into > the terminal. > 5. Crimp the terminal. The final result should look like a U with the > legs turned inward almost 180 degrees. These turned inward legs probably > will cut through the insulation and make contact with the conductor. > They're supposed to, but with the method outlined the connection will > function regardless. > Cheers! Stu. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455777#455777 > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:17:14 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper At 07:08 PM 5/2/2016, you wrote: > >Waytek sells the terminals, minimum 50. I poked around on there a bit and didn't find them . . . can you shoot me a link? Thanks! Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:43:15 AM PST US From: Ken Ryan Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper They are showing a different part number than mouser, but this looks like them: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/30038/Delphi-12020334-Pack-Con-Female-Loose-Terminal-/ On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 7:16 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 07:08 PM 5/2/2016, you wrote: > > > Waytek sells the terminals, minimum 50. > > > I poked around on there a bit and didn't > find them . . . can you shoot me a link? > Thanks! > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:03:50 AM PST US From: Efraim Otero Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: B&C 200G Alternator Clive: Thank you for your feedback. I have an O 200 with a skytec lightweight starter that came with the plane when I bought it. The battery is a powersonic 12 v 18 Ah. I have a starter switch and a battery switch plus a key switch for both mags and start. I just want to charge the battery and run the transponder which dar=C3=A1s about 210 milliamps. I have a coms panel transceiver, Flightline 760 VHF and I am debating whether installing my Sporty=99s SP400 handheld (for VOR and ILS nav crosschecking:). Other than that I need a few USB charging porta for ipad and iphone. No lights. So I think the loads will be light. Any thoughts? Thank you all. E > On May 3, 2016, at 5:54 AM, Clive Richards wrote: > > Efraim I have since checked & found we actually fitted the B & C 200G alternator to our 0200 12.5 amp output not smaller as I thought. =46rom what you have said your continental starter may be operated by a mechanical cable pull to start direct to a power switch by the starter, you could retain this if you wish. I assume this uses battery negative earth as current systems. > Clive > > On 29 April 2016 at 18:25, Efraim Otero > wrote: > Dear All: > I bought a 200G alternador to install a in my wooden celebrity biplane=C2=B4s O200 Continental engine. It has a Skytec Starter that is powered by a powersonic 12 V 18 AmpHr Battery. > I received a schematic drawing for a simple day VFR electrical system (attached). > > > > > I have some very newbie questions: > > 1) I received an =9Cinline fuse holder=9D picture also attached. This comes be > > > > This goes between and cabled to the alternador B lead to carry that 15 amp fuse before the firewall and the voltaje regulator? > If so, how do I connect it_ do I cut the red wire and splice it to the one coming out of the alternator? What gauge aire should I use as there is no mention of any AWG size? > > 2) What wire to use between the capacitar and the S8005-1? 14 AWG same as ground? > 3) in the S8005-1 what does that =9CCOM=9D diagram mean? > 4) The power distribuci=C3=B3n bus: can I use a fuse block with fast on tabs? > 5) my battery is conecten directly to the starter. Should I reroute the negative pole to ground? What soul I use as ground, the steel firewall? The steel/aluminum landing gear? > 6) how/where does the starter fit in this diagram? > > Please help as you can see I am clueless about electriza systems (even though I read Bob=C2=B4s bookI feel like I=C2=B4m being taught in Russian! That is obviously my very own weakeness not the book=C2=B4s!!!!) > > Thank you all, > > Ephraim > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:05:51 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: 12v to 24v From: "jonlaury" What's the simplest way to driving two 24v solenoids of 7w each, from my 12v system? Thanks, John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455802#455802 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 10:08:07 AM PST US From: Robert McCallum Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper Stu; If I interpret your explanation correctly, you're advocating trapping the insulation along with the wire strands in the wire part of the crimp?? If this is the case DO NOT DO IT. The wire part of the crimp is intended to provide a homogeneous gas tight mass of copper for long term electrical continuity. Having insulation material within this portion of the crimp will seriously compromise the integrity of the connection by allowing air and moisture infiltration. The insulation should only be within the insulation portion of the crimp and ONLY the bare copper strands should be in the wire portion of the crimp. Bob McC > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: ashleysc@broadstripe.net > Date: May 3, 2016 at 12:33 AM > > > > Hi; > I suggest the following sequence: > 1. Strip off about 5/8" to bare the conductor. > 2. Turn the bare conductor back over the insulation to guarantee good contact > within the terminal. > 3. I noticed there is too much flare on your terminals, so close the flare to > at least parallel with pliers. If you don't do this the terminal won't enter > the die properly. > 4. Insert the wire into the terminal with the bare conductor deepest into the > terminal. > 5. Crimp the terminal. The final result should look like a U with the legs > turned inward almost 180 degrees. These turned inward legs probably will cut > through the insulation and make contact with the conductor. They're supposed > to, but with the method outlined the connection will function regardless. > Cheers! Stu. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "user9253" > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Sent: Monday, May 2, 2016 5:08:42 PM > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper > > > Waytek sells the terminals, minimum 50. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455777#455777 > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 10:43:26 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper From: "user9253" I agree with Bob McC. Do not crimp insulation and bare wire together. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455812#455812 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 11:06:49 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: 12v to 24v At 11:04 AM 5/3/2016, you wrote: > >What's the simplest way to driving two 24v solenoids of 7w each, >from my 12v system? What kind of solenoids? The 'simplest' is probably to change out for 12v devices. An 'up-converter' is parts intensive and potential radio noise source. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 11:14:11 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper At 10:41 AM 5/3/2016, you wrote: >They are showing a different part number than mouser, but this looks >like them: > >https://www.waytekwire.com/item/30038/Delphi-12020334-Pack-Con-Female-Loose-Terminal-/ aha! thanks. got some on order . . . but my sense is that these are no different than the broad family of open barrel terminals. I'll play with them a bit and perhaps do a comic-book on them . . . and yes . . . gas-tight, metal on metal joints in the wire grip is the design goal. Gentle bear-hug in the insulation grip. Here's a similar process on a smaller scale. http://tinyurl.com/9c444zm Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 12:12:38 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: 12v to 24v From: Charlie England On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 11:04 AM, jonlaury wrote: > > What's the simplest way to driving two 24v solenoids of 7w each, from my > 12v system? > > Thanks, > John > At the risk of sounding flippant, the simplest way is to replace them with 12v solenoids. What do they control; are they mechanical actuators, or contactors for handling higher current than the control can handle? If they are actuators and you can identify them by part number, you might even be able to get 12v coils for them. If all the above fails, google for '12v to 24v converter', or just search ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Converter-Regulator-12V-Step-Up-to-24V-3A-72W-/130539974423?hash=item1e64c9ef17:m:mxx-mrNrqLUZYfP7BAucyNA Charlie ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:26:58 PM PST US From: Ken Ryan Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper Bob, I used your instructions for crimping regular molex terminals and it all worked perfectly, but these thicker, tougher terminals just won't cooperate. Here's a link on delphi to a "crimp information sheet" http://delphi.com/docs/default-source/ecatalog-documents/12131456-crimpinformationsheet-pdf.pdf?Status=Master&sfvrsn=0 I could not find anything helpful on it. On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 10:12 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 10:41 AM 5/3/2016, you wrote: > > They are showing a different part number than mouser, but this looks like > them: > > > https://www.waytekwire.com/item/30038/Delphi-12020334-Pack-Con-Female-Loose-Terminal-/ > > > aha! thanks. got some on order . . . but my sense > is that these are no different than the broad > family of open barrel terminals. I'll play with > them a bit and perhaps do a comic-book on them > > . . . and yes . . . gas-tight, metal on metal > joints in the wire grip is the design goal. > Gentle bear-hug in the insulation grip. Here's > a similar process on a smaller scale. > > http://tinyurl.com/9c444zm > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:31:17 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper At 02:24 PM 5/3/2016, you wrote: >Bob, I used your instructions for crimping regular molex terminals >and it all worked perfectly, but these thicker, tougher terminals >just won't cooperate. Here's a link on delphi to a "crimp information sheet" > >http://delphi.com/docs/default-source/ecatalog-documents/12131456-crimpinformationsheet-pdf.pdf?Status=Master&sfvrsn=0 > >I could not find anything helpful on it. Me neither . . . as soon as my samples are in, I'll get some hands-on calibration for the task. Watch this space . . . Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 01:39:40 PM PST US From: Ken Ryan Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper I've been able to further determine that these terminals are "Series III Pack-Con" variety and have ordered an expensive crimper that is supposed to work on them. Soon I will be opening a lightly used crimper store. On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 9:42 AM, user9253 wrote: > > I agree with Bob McC. Do not crimp insulation and bare wire together. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455812#455812 > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:39:58 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: airframe ground From: bob noffs i am building a rv12 and i am putting a set of led land lights and led nav/ strobes.vans provides airframe grounds for their lights. of course the instructions i got with mine were for wires to ground. no shielded wire as mfgr said not needed. man, those airframe grounds look so easy. am i risking noise? bob noffs ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 06:02:04 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: airframe ground At 06:36 PM 5/3/2016, you wrote: >i am building a rv12 and i am putting a set of led land lights and >led nav/ strobes.vans provides airframe grounds for their lights. of >course the instructions i got with mine were for wires to ground. no >shielded wire as mfgr said not needed. man, those airframe grounds >look so easy. am i risking noise? No. These things are not strong CONDUCTED antagonists and controlling radiated emissions at the landing light's enclosure is stone simple. Follow the instructions . . . 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