Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:10 AM - Re: airframe ground (bob noffs)
2. 08:13 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (ashleysc@broadstripe.net)
3. 08:29 AM - WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff (Art Zemon)
4. 10:52 AM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (Charlie England)
5. 01:48 PM - Re: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff (don van santen)
6. 02:32 PM - Re: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff (Charlie England)
7. 02:50 PM - Re: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff (Rene)
8. 03:02 PM - Re: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff (Art Zemon)
9. 03:31 PM - Re: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff (Stein Bruch)
10. 07:10 PM - Re: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff (Kelly McMullen)
11. 07:24 PM - Re: Re: finding the correct crimper (ashleysc@broadstripe.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: airframe ground |
hot dog!
thanks bob
On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 8:00 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 06:36 PM 5/3/2016, you wrote:
>
> i am building a rv12 and i am putting a set of led land lights and led
> nav/ strobes.vans provides airframe grounds for their lights. of course the
> instructions i got with mine were for wires to ground. no shielded wire as
> mfgr said not needed. man, those airframe grounds look so easy. am i
> risking noise?
>
>
> No. These things are not strong CONDUCTED
> antagonists and controlling radiated emissions
> at the landing light's enclosure is stone
> simple. Follow the instructions . . .
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
Hi Bob;
I may have entered the conversation late, but was commenting on ignition wires.
I will recheck mine and see if I have done anything wrong.
Cheers! Stu.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 3, 2016 10:06:51 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper
Stu;
If I interpret your explanation correctly, you're advocating trapping the
insulation along with the wire strands in the wire part of the crimp?? If this
is the case DO NOT DO IT. The wire part of the crimp is intended to provide a
homogeneous gas tight mass of copper for long term electrical continuity. Having
insulation material within this portion of the crimp will seriously compromise
the integrity of the connection by allowing air and moisture infiltration. The
insulation should only be within the insulation portion of the crimp and ONLY
the bare copper strands should be in the wire portion of the crimp.
Bob McC
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: ashleysc@broadstripe.net
> Date: May 3, 2016 at 12:33 AM
>
>
>
> Hi;
> I suggest the following sequence:
> 1. Strip off about 5/8" to bare the conductor.
> 2. Turn the bare conductor back over the insulation to guarantee good contact
> within the terminal.
> 3. I noticed there is too much flare on your terminals, so close the flare to
> at least parallel with pliers. If you don't do this the terminal won't enter
> the die properly.
> 4. Insert the wire into the terminal with the bare conductor deepest into the
> terminal.
> 5. Crimp the terminal. The final result should look like a U with the legs
> turned inward almost 180 degrees. These turned inward legs probably will cut
> through the insulation and make contact with the conductor. They're supposed
> to, but with the method outlined the connection will function regardless.
> Cheers! Stu.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, May 2, 2016 5:08:42 PM
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper
>
>
> Waytek sells the terminals, minimum 50.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455777#455777
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff |
Folks,
I was about to order tools but thought that I ought to check here first,
and see if any of you want to shed an excess tool or two. So far, I know
that I need:
- Wire stripper such as the Stripmaster that strips 16-26 AWG
- Coax connector crimper, specifically to put connectors on RG-58
I am part way through building a wire book so I don't have definite lengths
for various kinds of wire but here is what I have so far:
- RG-58, roughly 70 feet
- 18 AWG red and black wire, a bunch
- 22 AWG (or so) signal wire, single strand, twisted pairs, whatever, a
bunch more
- Faston connectors, solder type, a bunch
Let me know if I can help you clean out your basement :-)
-- Art Z.
--
http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <http://cheerfulcurmudgeon.com/>
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff |
No tools for sale, but a few suggestions.
1 replace the rg58 with rg400. 58 IIRC is solid core and breaks easily from
vibration.
2 replace solder on fast on with real AMP crimp on faston. The solder on
are hard to keep the solder from wicking up the wire resulting in a hard
point that will break from vibration.
Just my .02 cents worth.
On May 4, 2016 8:37 AM, "Art Zemon" <art@zemon.name> wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I was about to order tools but thought that I ought to check here first,
> and see if any of you want to shed an excess tool or two. So far, I know
> that I need:
>
> - Wire stripper such as the Stripmaster that strips 16-26 AWG
> - Coax connector crimper, specifically to put connectors on RG-58
>
> I am part way through building a wire book so I don't have definite
> lengths for various kinds of wire but here is what I have so far:
>
> - RG-58, roughly 70 feet
> - 18 AWG red and black wire, a bunch
> - 22 AWG (or so) signal wire, single strand, twisted pairs, whatever,
> a bunch more
> - Faston connectors, solder type, a bunch
>
> Let me know if I can help you clean out your basement :-)
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <http://cheerfulcurmudgeon.com/>
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff |
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Message 7
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| Subject: | WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff |
I would like to vote for the crimp. Properly done aircraft quality
faston all but totally eliminate the stress risers and are much easier
to get right for the normal person. I used a lot of Solder in my
airplane and I worry about those connections much more than my fastons.
But there is a time and place for everything. Pick the best solution
you can for each task.
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Charlie England
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2016 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff
Neither is precisely correct. RG58 is available both solid & stranded,
and crimps have stress risers just like soldered connectors. Crimps are
a lot faster (and more expensive), though.
-------- Original message --------
From: don van santen
Date:05/04/2016 3:45 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff
No tools for sale, but a few suggestions.
1 replace the rg58 with rg400. 58 IIRC is solid core and breaks easily
from vibration.
2 replace solder on fast on with real AMP crimp on faston. The solder on
are hard to keep the solder from wicking up the wire resulting in a hard
point that will break from vibration.
Just my .02 cents worth.
On May 4, 2016 8:37 AM, "Art Zemon" <art@zemon.name> wrote:
Folks,
I was about to order tools but thought that I ought to check here first,
and see if any of you want to shed an excess tool or two. So far, I know
that I need:
* Wire stripper such as the Stripmaster that strips 16-26 AWG
* Coax connector crimper, specifically to put connectors on RG-58
I am part way through building a wire book so I don't have definite
lengths for various kinds of wire but here is what I have so far:
* RG-58, roughly 70 feet
* 18 AWG red and black wire, a bunch
* 22 AWG (or so) signal wire, single strand, twisted pairs, whatever, a
bunch more
* Faston connectors, solder type, a bunch
Let me know if I can help you clean out your basement :-)
-- Art Z.
--
<http://cheerfulcurmudgeon.com/> http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff |
Please folks... I'm not trying to start arguments about construction
materials or techniques. Unless you have self-installing cable or
connectors... you know, the ones where you pour them onto the floor and
drink beer while they assemble themselves into a flawless wiring harness...
pre-installed inside the airplane. :-)
Seriously, I'm just looking to buy stuff, not debate anything.
Thanks,
-- Art Z.
On Wed, May 4, 2016 at 3:45 PM, don van santen <donvansanten@gmail.com>
wrote:
> No tools for sale, but a few suggestions.
>
--
http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <http://cheerfulcurmudgeon.com/>
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 9
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| Subject: | WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff |
Hey----we have those! All it takes is a small monetary
consideration :)
Cheers,
Stein
Do not archive
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Art
Zemon
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2016 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff
..Unless you have self-installing cable or
connectors... you know, the ones where you pour them onto the floor and
drink beer while they assemble themselves into a flawless wiring
harness... pre-installed inside the airplane. :-)
Thanks,
-- Art Z.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: WTB Wiring Tools & Stuff |
RG-58 comes in both versions, solid and braided. In most cases, properly
supported cable has next to no flexing. It is a fine, and much cheaper
solution for VHF frequencies unless there is a noise generator nearby.
Insulation material isn't as good as RG-400, and only single shield.
however I have seen many a type certified aircraft with factory original
RG-58 that is still performing fine.
However, for transponders, DME and GPS you need better materials, better
shielding because they are operating in the 1 Ghz freq range. RG-142 was
used for a long time, with, IIRC solid core.
RG-400 is braided, more flexible, lighter and well shielded.
Just depends on your budget and application. about 50 cents vs 3-4 bucks
a foot.
On 5/4/2016 1:45 PM, don van santen wrote:
> No tools for sale, but a few suggestions.
> 1 replace the rg58 with rg400. 58 IIRC is solid core and breaks easily
> from vibration.
> 2 replace solder on fast on with real AMP crimp on faston. The solder on
> are hard to keep the solder from wicking up the wire resulting in a hard
> point that will break from vibration.
>
> Just my .02 cents worth.
>
> On May 4, 2016 8:37 AM, "Art Zemon" <art@zemon.name
> <mailto:art@zemon.name>> wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> I was about to order tools but thought that I ought to check here
> first, and see if any of you want to shed an excess tool or two. So
> far, I know that I need:
>
> * Wire stripper such as the Stripmaster that strips 16-26 AWG
> * Coax connector crimper, specifically to put connectors on RG-58
>
> I am part way through building a wire book so I don't have definite
> lengths for various kinds of wire but here is what I have so far:
>
> * RG-58, roughly 70 feet
> * 18 AWG red and black wire, a bunch
> * 22 AWG (or so) signal wire, single strand, twisted pairs,
> whatever, a bunch more
> * Faston connectors, solder type, a bunch
>
> Let me know if I can help you clean out your basement :-)
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <http://cheerfulcurmudgeon.com/>
>
> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for
> myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: finding the correct crimper |
Hi Bob;
Thanks.
Cheers!=C2-=C2- Stu.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland7@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 4, 2016 10:50:49 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper
Those are fuse terminals.
-------- Original message --------
From: ashleysc@broadstripe.net
Date:05/04/2016 10:11 AM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper
Hi Bob;
I may have entered the conversation late, but was commenting on ignition wi
res.=C2- I will recheck mine and see if I have done anything wrong.
Cheers!=C2-=C2- Stu.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 3, 2016 10:06:51 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper
sympatico.ca>
Stu;
If I interpret your explanation correctly, you're advocating trapping the
insulation along with the wire strands in the wire part of the crimp?? If t
his
is the case DO NOT DO IT. The wire part of the crimp is intended to provide
a
homogeneous gas tight mass of copper for long term electrical continuity. H
aving
insulation material within this portion of the crimp will seriously comprom
ise
the integrity of the connection by allowing air and moisture infiltration.
The
insulation should only be within the insulation portion of the crimp and ON
LY
the bare copper strands should be in the wire portion of the crimp.
Bob McC
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: ashleysc@broadstripe.net
> Date: May 3, 2016 at 12:33 AM
>
>
>
> Hi;
> I suggest the following sequence:
> 1. Strip off about 5/8" to bare the conductor.
> 2. Turn the bare conductor back over the insulation to guarantee good con
tact
> within the terminal.
> 3. I noticed there is too much flare on your terminals, so close the flar
e to
> at least parallel with pliers. If you don't do this the terminal won't en
ter
> the die properly.
> 4. Insert the wire into the terminal with the bare conductor deepest into
the
> terminal.
> 5. Crimp the terminal. The final result should look like a U with the leg
s
> turned inward almost 180 degrees. These turned inward legs probably will
cut
> through the insulation and make contact with the conductor. They're suppo
sed
> to, but with the method outlined the connection will function regardless.
> Cheers! Stu.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, May 2, 2016 5:08:42 PM
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: finding the correct crimper
>
>
> Waytek sells the terminals, minimum 50.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455777#455777
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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