Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:35 AM - Re: Re: Warm Extension Cord (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 12:12 PM - B and C SD-8 dynamo problem (Gautier, Thomas N (3262))
3. 04:03 PM - Klixon CB Nuts (William Hunter)
4. 04:31 PM - Re: Klixon CB Nuts (Robert Borger)
5. 04:46 PM - Re: B and C SD-8 dynamo problem (user9253)
6. 10:52 PM - Re: Klixon CB Nuts (William Hunter)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Warm Extension Cord |
At 06:24 PM 5/15/2016, you wrote:
>
>Years ago I took a college course on the National Electrical
>Code. The instructor was an electrical inspector. He told about
>inspecting the electrical installation in a commercial
>building. The installer had done a very neat job with all of the
>white neutral wires in one conduit and all of the hot wires in
>another conduit coming from the electrical service panel. After the
>building was occupied, the tenant called the inspector complaining
>about hot conduits. The installer had to come back and rewire the
>panel with the hot and neutral wires from each circuit sharing the
>same conduit.
Makes sense. If you imagine just a short piece
of conduit . . . say 1" long with a number of
wires through it. The conduit couples to the
wires just like a torroid transformer core
except the steel in the conduit was never
intended for transformer duties . . . high
eddy-current losses. While each conductor might not
carry a lot of current (keeping I(squared)R
losses low) the sum of many conductors could
be putting tens of ampere-turns of energy
into the 'core' which can do nothing with it
but get warmer. Keeping the outbound and return
electron paths paired through the very long
"core" is the secret to getting more power
to the other end and keeping the "core"
cooler.
Bob . . .
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | B and C SD-8 dynamo problem |
Bob,
I am getting to the final stages of my RV-10 project for which I
selected Z-13/8 as the electrical system model. My system design is
essential identical to Z-13/8 rev Q from Appendix Z Rev.12A change 4,
except that I am using ordinary mags for ignition.
Its time to install the SD-8 dynamo on the engine so I finally, some
years after wiring it, got around to testing the control circuit for the
dynamo. I mounted the dynamo in a drill press to operate at about 2400 rpm
and arranged to load the dynamo/control circuit up to a maximum of 8A
using some modified electric toaster heating elements. I started with no
load.
My test set produces no output voltage. When I turn on the drill press
the voltage at the positive terminal of the capacitor rises to 3.1v over a
period of 10 or 15 seconds and stays there. The dynamo is producing over
20vac and the voltage at the negative terminal of the bridge rectifier is
about -13v.
I am in the process of wringing out my circuit construction to find the
problem but I would like your advice on a couple of issues. 1) Can you
suggest a definitive test of the voltage regulator module isolated from
the rest of the circuit? And 2) Can I test the control circuit without the
dynamo, perhaps with a DC supply for input power? If I can test it with DC
what voltage should I use? I imagine 16 or 17 volts would be right for
full 8A load. Would higher voltage be useful for lighter loads? I would
like to stress test my heat sinking arrangement for an hour or two but I
dont really like the idea of running the dynamo with the drill press for
that long. Also Id like to get the dynamo mounted on the engine.
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Nick Gautier
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Does anybody know of a source for the black nuts that attach the Klixon
circuit breakers to the panel?
Bill Hunter
+1 408-464-1902
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Klixon CB Nuts |
Bill,
http://www.bandc.aero/circuit-protective-devices.aspx
<http://www.bandc.aero/circuit-protective-devices.aspx>
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com <mailto:rlborger@mac.com>
> On May 16, 2016, at 6:01 PM, William Hunter
<billhuntersemail@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Does anybody know of a source for the black nuts that attach the
Klixon circuit breakers to the panel?
>
> Bill Hunter
> +1 408-464-1902
>
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: B and C SD-8 dynamo problem |
When the dynamo is rotating, both it and the regulator should be outputting voltage,
regardless of whether the relay is energized or not.
What regulator are you using? It should be mounted using heat-conductive paste.
Is the regulator grounded to the airframe during these tests?
We need to know exactly where both voltmeter leads are connected for each measurement.
The dynamo does not have to be rotating to test the relay. An easy test is to
put a 12 volt battery in the aircraft wired according to Z-13/8. Connect a
high wattage automotive lamp across the capacitor, then turn the AUX/ALT switch
on and off. If the lamp turns on and off, then the relay circuit is working.
The relay should always be energized with 12 volts nominal (14 is OK), never
with 16 or 17 volts.
The problem might be the test setup and not a component problem. The best test
is to install everything and go fly the plane. Stick-on temperature strips
can be affixed to the regulator to see how hot it gets.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456318#456318
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Klixon CB Nuts |
Thanks Bob... GREATLY APPRECIATED
Bill Hunter
+1 408-464-1902
On May 16, 2016 4:37 PM, "Robert Borger" <rlborger@mac.com> wrote:
> Bill,
>
> http://www.bandc.aero/circuit-protective-devices.aspx
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
> Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117
> rlborger@mac.com
>
> On May 16, 2016, at 6:01 PM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Does anybody know of a source for the black nuts that attach the Klixon
> circuit breakers to the panel?
>
> Bill Hunter
> +1 408-464-1902
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|