Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:10 AM - Re: connectors explained? (rampil)
2. 05:01 AM - Re: Re: connectors explained? (Alec Myers)
3. 05:39 AM - Re: Re: connectors explained? (Charlie England)
4. 06:23 AM - Re: Re: connectors explained? (Alec Myers)
5. 07:57 AM - Re: Re: connectors explained? (Dj Merrill)
6. 10:29 AM - Re: connectors explained? (rampil)
7. 10:42 AM - Re: Re: connectors explained? (Ken Ryan)
8. 10:59 AM - Re: Re: connectors explained? (Charlie England)
9. 11:04 AM - Firewall Wire Pass Through (William Hunter)
10. 11:29 AM - Re: Firewall Wire Pass Through (Charlie England)
11. 11:48 AM - Re: Re: connectors explained? (Alec Myers)
12. 11:53 AM - Re: Re: connectors explained? (Bill Watson)
13. 11:57 AM - Re: Re: connectors explained? (Kent or Jackie Ashton)
14. 12:17 PM - Re: Re: connectors explained? (Alec Myers)
15. 03:28 PM - Re: Re: connectors explained? (A R Goldman)
16. 04:52 PM - Use for old ELT batts? (Ron Burnett)
17. 06:16 PM - Re: Use for old ELT batts? (John Morgensen)
18. 07:16 PM - Re: Use for old ELT batts? (Art Zemon)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
The terms you mentioned are brand names, in use 30 or more years each.
Without being condescending, the best way to start learning about these devices
is to google them when a term comes up that you are unfamiliar with, because
you are asking for an encyclopedia.
Selecting links to the manufacturer is probably best (AMP is a manufacturer).
PIDG are connectors for single wires. Molex are (IMHO) cheap, relatively unreliable
connectors for multiple wires whose popularity may have had to do with their
formerly easy availability at Radio Shack.
If, after you give yourself a bit of baseline, this forum would be a great place
to ask detailed questions about aviation applications of the hardware.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=458559#458559
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
What's the basis for the claim that Molex connectors are unreliable?
They're designed to minimise the part cost for mass manufactured products but the
correct tooling is very precise and very expensive. If you use cheap tools
and don't follow the test protocols the connection may well fail prematurely,
but that's not a design flaw in the product.
> On Jul 23, 2016, at 6:08 AM, rampil <ira.rampil@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
>
> The terms you mentioned are brand names, in use 30 or more years each.
> Without being condescending, the best way to start learning about these devices
is to google them when a term comes up that you are unfamiliar with, because
you are asking for an encyclopedia.
>
> Selecting links to the manufacturer is probably best (AMP is a manufacturer).
> PIDG are connectors for single wires. Molex are (IMHO) cheap, relatively unreliable
connectors for multiple wires whose popularity may have had to do with
their formerly easy availability at Radio Shack.
>
> If, after you give yourself a bit of baseline, this forum would be a great place
to ask detailed questions about aviation applications of the hardware.
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=458559#458559
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
I'd have to agree that relative to other style connectors for the same
application, the molex style connectors can be unreliable. Not pointing a
finger at the brand (Molex makes more than one style of connector). But the
most common style referred to as 'molex' often has pins made of
corrosion-prone material, and weak contact pressure between the contacts.
In a 30+ year career dealing with electronics, I've seen frequent (and
repeated) failures in everything from consumer electronics to industrial
equipment costing in the high 6 figures. The failures I'm talking about are
not at the wire/pin junction, but at the pin/pin junction; no tooling
issues there.
Just because you see something used in aviation doesn't mean it's high
quality. Another example is the edge connector used in a lot of older high
end panel mount radios, audio panels, etc.
Charlie
On Sat, Jul 23, 2016 at 6:59 AM, Alec Myers <alec@alecmyers.com> wrote:
>
> What's the basis for the claim that Molex connectors are unreliable?
>
> They're designed to minimise the part cost for mass manufactured products
> but the correct tooling is very precise and very expensive. If you use
> cheap tools and don't follow the test protocols the connection may well
> fail prematurely, but that's not a design flaw in the product.
>
> > On Jul 23, 2016, at 6:08 AM, rampil <ira.rampil@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> >
> >
> > The terms you mentioned are brand names, in use 30 or more years each.
> > Without being condescending, the best way to start learning about these
> devices is to google them when a term comes up that you are unfamiliar
> with, because you are asking for an encyclopedia.
> >
> > Selecting links to the manufacturer is probably best (AMP is a
> manufacturer).
> > PIDG are connectors for single wires. Molex are (IMHO) cheap, relatively
> unreliable connectors for multiple wires whose popularity may have had to
> do with their formerly easy availability at Radio Shack.
> >
> > If, after you give yourself a bit of baseline, this forum would be a
> great place to ask detailed questions about aviation applications of the
> hardware.
> >
> > --------
> > Ira N224XS
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=458559#458559
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
If you want more corrosion resistance, use (and pay for) the gold plated con
tacts. I believe Molex manufacture the 062 and 093 series pins in brass plat
ed with two different thicknesses of gold too - your choice. On the other ha
nd if you want pins at 2 cents each then that's your choice too.
Either way the connectors aren't designed for frequent disconnects - 100 cyc
les only is the design limit. Beyond that the contact pressure will fail.
Every single PC manufactured since the original IBM PC has used some kind of
Molex or AMP crimped pin connection with a nylon housing for things like po
wer supply and floppy disc connectors. That's a lot of opportunities for fai
lure and a lot of time to get things right.
> On Jul 23, 2016, at 8:37 AM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'd have to agree that relative to other style connectors for the same app
lication, the molex style connectors can be unreliable. Not pointing a finge
r at the brand (Molex makes more than one style of connector). But the most c
ommon style referred to as 'molex' often has pins made of corrosion-prone ma
terial, and weak contact pressure between the contacts. In a 30+ year career
dealing with electronics, I've seen frequent (and repeated) failures in eve
rything from consumer electronics to industrial equipment costing in the hig
h 6 figures. The failures I'm talking about are not at the wire/pin junction
, but at the pin/pin junction; no tooling issues there.
>
> Just because you see something used in aviation doesn't mean it's high qua
lity. Another example is the edge connector used in a lot of older high end p
anel mount radios, audio panels, etc.
>
> Charlie
>
>> On Sat, Jul 23, 2016 at 6:59 AM, Alec Myers <alec@alecmyers.com> wrote:
>>
>> What's the basis for the claim that Molex connectors are unreliable?
>>
>> They're designed to minimise the part cost for mass manufactured products
but the correct tooling is very precise and very expensive. If you use chea
p tools and don't follow the test protocols the connection may well fail pre
maturely, but that's not a design flaw in the product.
>>
>> > On Jul 23, 2016, at 6:08 AM, rampil <ira.rampil@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>> >
>
>> >
>> > The terms you mentioned are brand names, in use 30 or more years each.
>> > Without being condescending, the best way to start learning about these
devices is to google them when a term comes up that you are unfamiliar with
, because you are asking for an encyclopedia.
>> >
>> > Selecting links to the manufacturer is probably best (AMP is a manufact
urer).
>> > PIDG are connectors for single wires. Molex are (IMHO) cheap, relativel
y unreliable connectors for multiple wires whose popularity may have had to d
o with their formerly easy availability at Radio Shack.
>> >
>> > If, after you give yourself a bit of baseline, this forum would be a gr
eat place to ask detailed questions about aviation applications of the hardw
are.
>> >
>> > --------
>> > Ira N224XS
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=458559#458559
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -
>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> ==========
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
On 7/23/2016 7:59 AM, Alec Myers wrote:
> What's the basis for the claim that Molex connectors are unreliable?
I was wondering the same thing. I've been using these types of
connectors for some 30+ years in a wide variety of applications, and it
is pretty rare to see a failure.
The ones that have seen issues were typically due to a bad crimp
installation. Needle nose pliers aren't the proper crimp tool, despite
application by many backyard mechanics... :-)
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
The basis for my opinion regarding molex standard power 0.062 and 0.093 connectors
is based on nearly 50 years experience in electronic/homebrew fab. That includes
five aircraft and big pile of med lab equipment.
The problems I have seen (more than once) is that they corrode and that the pin/socket
combos are not always well fixed in their nylon housings - they pull
out. The wire to contact crimps also occasionally let go on a pull test. And that
is with reasonably expensive hand crimp tooling. When I use molex, I have
for many years felt the need to solder after crimping.
Yes, you can buy gold-plated contacts, but not locally sourced at ACS, Fry's, Rat
Shack, etc. The reason these connectors are used is that they are locally
available, consumer grade, inexpensive products. In their favor, they also will
handle more current than a submini DB connector. In my aircraft I use metal
shell circular connectors through the firewall and CPC connectors from Panel to
fuselage. Inside the panel I use mostly submini DBs and few Molex for multiwire
applications, where I accept the molex issues for minor subsystems.
Can I see a show of hands of homebuilders who have access to the automated, precision
molex crimp fixtures for their homebuilt aircraft? I would submit that
a connector product that requires that amount of care and precision crimping
in fabrication is not a good fit for OBAM aircraft. I would also observe that
in homebuilding and restoring aircraft, that the number of cycles in connecting
and de-mating connectors is far more than a handful and not comparable at all
to a Dell boat anchor where the power cables to the motherboard and drives
are inserted once and (hopefully, but I suppose wishfully in a Dell) never touched
again.
Sorry for being long winded, but I have tried to explain the basis for my opinions.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=458571#458571
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
I need to put a connector in the tail section to connect the electric trim
servo (Ray Allen). The wires are small, 22 or 24. What would be the best
choice for a connector in this situation? It would be possible to use a
service loop and splices, but is there a good connector for this
application?
On Sat, Jul 23, 2016 at 9:26 AM, rampil <ira.rampil@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The basis for my opinion regarding molex standard power 0.062 and 0.093
> connectors is based on nearly 50 years experience in electronic/homebrew
> fab. That includes five aircraft and big pile of med lab equipment.
>
> The problems I have seen (more than once) is that they corrode and that
> the pin/socket combos are not always well fixed in their nylon housings -
> they pull out. The wire to contact crimps also occasionally let go on a
> pull test. And that is with reasonably expensive hand crimp tooling. When I
> use molex, I have for many years felt the need to solder after crimping.
>
> Yes, you can buy gold-plated contacts, but not locally sourced at ACS,
> Fry's, Rat Shack, etc. The reason these connectors are used is that they
> are locally available, consumer grade, inexpensive products. In their
> favor, they also will handle more current than a submini DB connector. In
> my aircraft I use metal shell circular connectors through the firewall and
> CPC connectors from Panel to fuselage. Inside the panel I use mostly
> submini DBs and few Molex for multiwire applications, where I accept the
> molex issues for minor subsystems.
>
> Can I see a show of hands of homebuilders who have access to the
> automated, precision molex crimp fixtures for their homebuilt aircraft? I
> would submit that a connector product that requires that amount of care and
> precision crimping in fabrication is not a good fit for OBAM aircraft. I
> would also observe that in homebuilding and restoring aircraft, that the
> number of cycles in connecting and de-mating connectors is far more than a
> handful and not comparable at all to a Dell boat anchor where the power
> cables to the motherboard and drives are inserted once and (hopefully, but
> I suppose wishfully in a Dell) never touched again.
>
> Sorry for being long winded, but I have tried to explain the basis for my
> opinions.
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=458571#458571
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
I'd consider using the machined sub-d crimp pins, with heat shrink over
the joint. Details are in the -Connection book.
If you have other lines to the same general location (LED tail light,
etc), and a fairly open path for the connector to pass through, you
could just use a 9 pin sub-d connector.
Charlie
(interesting that Ira & I share the same experiences with both molex's
and Dells)
On 7/23/2016 12:40 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:
> I need to put a connector in the tail section to connect the electric
> trim servo (Ray Allen). The wires are small, 22 or 24. What would be
> the best choice for a connector in this situation? It would be
> possible to use a service loop and splices, but is there a good
> connector for this application?
>
> On Sat, Jul 23, 2016 at 9:26 AM, rampil <ira.rampil@gmail.com
> <mailto:ira.rampil@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> <ira.rampil@gmail.com <mailto:ira.rampil@gmail.com>>
>
> The basis for my opinion regarding molex standard power 0.062 and
> 0.093 connectors is based on nearly 50 years experience in
> electronic/homebrew fab. That includes five aircraft and big pile
> of med lab equipment.
>
> The problems I have seen (more than once) is that they corrode and
> that the pin/socket combos are not always well fixed in their
> nylon housings - they pull out. The wire to contact crimps also
> occasionally let go on a pull test. And that is with reasonably
> expensive hand crimp tooling. When I use molex, I have for many
> years felt the need to solder after crimping.
>
> Yes, you can buy gold-plated contacts, but not locally sourced at
> ACS, Fry's, Rat Shack, etc. The reason these connectors are used
> is that they are locally available, consumer grade, inexpensive
> products. In their favor, they also will handle more current than
> a submini DB connector. In my aircraft I use metal shell circular
> connectors through the firewall and CPC connectors from Panel to
> fuselage. Inside the panel I use mostly submini DBs and few Molex
> for multiwire applications, where I accept the molex issues for
> minor subsystems.
>
> Can I see a show of hands of homebuilders who have access to the
> automated, precision molex crimp fixtures for their homebuilt
> aircraft? I would submit that a connector product that requires
> that amount of care and precision crimping in fabrication is not a
> good fit for OBAM aircraft. I would also observe that in
> homebuilding and restoring aircraft, that the number of cycles in
> connecting and de-mating connectors is far more than a handful and
> not comparable at all to a Dell boat anchor where the power cables
> to the motherboard and drives are inserted once and (hopefully,
> but I suppose wishfully in a Dell) never touched again.
>
> Sorry for being long winded, but I have tried to explain the basis
> for my opinions.
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=458571#458571
>
>
> ==========
> -
> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Firewall Wire Pass Through |
Hi all,
On my airplane there are two rectangular/square holes that wire bundles
pass through. One hole is 1 inch by 2 inches and the other is a square 1
inch by 1 inch hole.
What is a best practice and also cost effective way to Fire block these
rather large holes?
Aircraft Spruce has a contraption for this purpose however it is only a 1
inch by 1 inch so it would not be applicable to my larger whole and there
product is a bit pricey.
The previous installation simply had red RTV silicone squirted in between
the wires
Thanks for your help!
Bill Hunter
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Wire Pass Through |
On 7/23/2016 1:02 PM, William Hunter wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> On my airplane there are two rectangular/square holes that wire
> bundles pass through. One hole is 1 inch by 2 inches and the other is
> a square 1 inch by 1 inch hole.
>
> What is a best practice and also cost effective way to Fire block
> these rather large holes?
>
> Aircraft Spruce has a contraption for this purpose however it is only
> a 1 inch by 1 inch so it would not be applicable to my larger whole
> and there product is a bit pricey.
>
> The previous installation simply had red RTV silicone squirted in
> between the wires
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Bill Hunter
>
The 1x2 is a bit big; do you need that much area?
FWIW, you can duplicate the pricey Spruce kit by buying a stainless grab
bar & cutting it about 1-2" out from the flanges (a 2fer). Various
diameters typically available from big box stores, or ebay/amazon. I've
also seen 1" stainless flanges on ebay for a reasonable price. Instead
of RTV, use intumescent caulk.
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=intumescent%20caulk
You can get the latex based stuff at big box stores, or the better stuff
at ACS. (either is probably good enough, and a lot better than RTV.)
Instead of squirting it in the hole (messy if you need to add/remove
wires), squirt 'strings' of it on a non-stick surface & let them cure.
Then stuff the empty space with the strings.
You'll still need the firesleeve & stainless clamps to finish the job.
Charlie
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
>>The reason these connectors are used is that they are locally available, consumer
grade, inexpensive products.
There's the problem. Using a product because it's locally available rather than
the right item for the job is of course going to give you the impression the
product is no good.
There should be a clue in the fact that although the pins are available for a few
cents each the Molex 093 tool is something like $300, and the AMP mate-n-lok
equivalent hand tool is about $500. And those are hand tools for field repair
and prototyping only, not suitable for manufacture.
If you use decent tooling, have the correct pin for the size of wire, which itself
is correctly stripped to precisely the right length per the manufacturer's
specification and then correctly positioned in the tool which is fully cycled
- they don't fail pull tests. If you insert them into the shells - and remove
them - with the correct tooling only, and only a strictly limited number of times,
then they don't fall out of the shells. If you stick to the design limit
of connect/disconnect cycles, they don't lose grip. But if you can't meet those
parameters, then yes, they'll be "unreliable".
> On Jul 23, 2016, at 13:26, rampil <ira.rampil@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> grade, inexpensive products.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
No expert here but I'd agree, especially for 22-24 gauge wires.
If you want a plug connector, use a 9 pin sub-d. For inline
applications, I zip tie the two plugs together. Cut and retie as
needed. That's what I did in my RV10's tail. Otherwise fabricate a
small mount which I've done for other applications.
If you need to splice individual wires, just use the sub-d pins without
the plug. heat shrink over the joint. Removable with some effort but
otherwise very secure and compact.
All of these connector types require professional grade crimpers and/or
development of some technique to get reliable connections in all
situations. For example, I have a less-than-pro crimper that required
some modification to work reliably. I recall doubling the stripped ends
of 24 gauge wire worked well as well.
Learning about different connector types and learning to use them has
been fun and satisfying for this builder.
On 7/23/2016 2:01 PM, Charlie England wrote:
> I'd consider using the machined sub-d crimp pins, with heat shrink
> over the joint. Details are in the -Connection book.
>
> If you have other lines to the same general location (LED tail light,
> etc), and a fairly open path for the connector to pass through, you
> could just use a 9 pin sub-d connector.
>
> Charlie
> (interesting that Ira & I share the same experiences with both molex's
> and Dells)
>
> On 7/23/2016 12:40 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:
>> I need to put a connector in the tail section to connect the electric
>> trim servo (Ray Allen). The wires are small, 22 or 24. What would be
>> the best choice for a connector in this situation? It would be
>> possible to use a service loop and splices, but is there a good
>> connector for this application?
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 23, 2016 at 9:26 AM, rampil <ira.rampil@gmail.com
>> <mailto:ira.rampil@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>> <ira.rampil@gmail.com <mailto:ira.rampil@gmail.com>>
>>
>> The basis for my opinion regarding molex standard power 0.062 and
>> 0.093 connectors is based on nearly 50 years experience in
>> electronic/homebrew fab. That includes five aircraft and big pile
>> of med lab equipment.
>>
>> The problems I have seen (more than once) is that they corrode
>> and that the pin/socket combos are not always well fixed in their
>> nylon housings - they pull out. The wire to contact crimps also
>> occasionally let go on a pull test. And that is with reasonably
>> expensive hand crimp tooling. When I use molex, I have for many
>> years felt the need to solder after crimping.
>>
>> Yes, you can buy gold-plated contacts, but not locally sourced at
>> ACS, Fry's, Rat Shack, etc. The reason these connectors are used
>> is that they are locally available, consumer grade, inexpensive
>> products. In their favor, they also will handle more current than
>> a submini DB connector. In my aircraft I use metal shell circular
>> connectors through the firewall and CPC connectors from Panel to
>> fuselage. Inside the panel I use mostly submini DBs and few Molex
>> for multiwire applications, where I accept the molex issues for
>> minor subsystems.
>>
>> Can I see a show of hands of homebuilders who have access to the
>> automated, precision molex crimp fixtures for their homebuilt
>> aircraft? I would submit that a connector product that requires
>> that amount of care and precision crimping in fabrication is not
>> a good fit for OBAM aircraft. I would also observe that in
>> homebuilding and restoring aircraft, that the number of cycles in
>> connecting and de-mating connectors is far more than a handful
>> and not comparable at all to a Dell boat anchor where the power
>> cables to the motherboard and drives are inserted once and
>> (hopefully, but I suppose wishfully in a Dell) never touched again.
>>
>> Sorry for being long winded, but I have tried to explain the
>> basis for my opinions.
>>
>> --------
>> Ira N224XS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=458571#458571
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>> -
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>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
Male and female D-sub crimp pins with a bit of shrink wrap seem like the most elegant
solution to me. Less elegant but OK: two Fast-on tabs. It is almost as
good just to twist and solder a small splice. If you ever need to remove the
device, cut the splice and resolder.
-Kent
> On Jul 23, 2016, at 1:40 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I need to put a connector in the tail section to connect the electric trim servo
(Ray Allen). The wires are small, 22 or 24. What would be the best choice
for a connector in this situation? It would be possible to use a service loop
and splices, but is there a good connector for this application?
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
DINFor information, on research, I see the Molex 093 pins are rated for a maximum
of 25 connection cycles only.
AMP documentation says their circular mil-style connectors are rated for 25 cycles
(tin plated) and 500 cycles (gold plated).
A brief review of Amphenol and ITT Canon Subminiature D connector shows the option
of DIN41652 Class I (500 mating cycles) or Class II (200 mating cycles) depending
on contact material.
On Jul 23, 2016, at 14:57, Kent or Jackie Ashton <kjashton@vnet.net> wrote:
Male and female D-sub crimp pins with a bit of shrink wrap seem like the most elegant
solution to me. Less elegant but OK: two Fast-on tabs. It is almost as
good just to twist and solder a small splice. If you ever need to remove the
device, cut the splice and resolder.
-Kent
> On Jul 23, 2016, at 1:40 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I need to put a connector in the tail section to connect the electric trim servo
(Ray Allen). The wires are small, 22 or 24. What would be the best choice
for a connector in this situation? It would be possible to use a service loop
and splices, but is there a good connector for this application?
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: connectors explained? |
Lesser the two main problems with the molex type connectors seem to be the c
rimp connection and the corrosion potential of the connectors.
I
I use them somewhat extensively but I try to circumvent these two problems b
y the following
1. Use the proper crimping tool
2. Solder the crimp
3 use heat shrink tubing for strain relief
4 use an antioxidant paste in the connectors
I even use this goo in gold plated (usually flash) pinned connectors as well
as fast -ins
!vm
Gold
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 23, 2016, at 7:37 AM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'd have to agree that relative to other style connectors for the same app
lication, the molex style connectors can be unreliable. Not pointing a finge
r at the brand (Molex makes more than one style of connector). But the most c
ommon style referred to as 'molex' often has pins made of corrosion-prone ma
terial, and weak contact pressure between the contacts. In a 30+ year career
dealing with electronics, I've seen frequent (and repeated) failures in eve
rything from consumer electronics to industrial equipment costing in the hig
h 6 figures. The failures I'm talking about are not at the wire/pin junction
, but at the pin/pin junction; no tooling issues there.
>
> Just because you see something used in aviation doesn't mean it's high qua
lity. Another example is the edge connector used in a lot of older high end p
anel mount radios, audio panels, etc.
>
> Charlie
>
>> On Sat, Jul 23, 2016 at 6:59 AM, Alec Myers <alec@alecmyers.com> wrote:
>>
>> What's the basis for the claim that Molex connectors are unreliable?
>>
>> They're designed to minimise the part cost for mass manufactured products
but the correct tooling is very precise and very expensive. If you use chea
p tools and don't follow the test protocols the connection may well fail pre
maturely, but that's not a design flaw in the product.
>>
>> > On Jul 23, 2016, at 6:08 AM, rampil <ira.rampil@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>> >
>
>> >
>> > The terms you mentioned are brand names, in use 30 or more years each.
>> > Without being condescending, the best way to start learning about these
devices is to google them when a term comes up that you are unfamiliar with
, because you are asking for an encyclopedia.
>> >
>> > Selecting links to the manufacturer is probably best (AMP is a manufact
urer).
>> > PIDG are connectors for single wires. Molex are (IMHO) cheap, relativel
y unreliable connectors for multiple wires whose popularity may have had to d
o with their formerly easy availability at Radio Shack.
>> >
>> > If, after you give yourself a bit of baseline, this forum would be a gr
eat place to ask detailed questions about aviation applications of the hardw
are.
>> >
>> > --------
>> > Ira N224XS
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=458559#458559
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -
>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
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n
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>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Use for old ELT batts? |
I have 3 ELT batts that have expired legally but still put out reasonable voltage.
Any suggested uses with an easily rigged or wired solution? Especially for
a potential emergency (grid down, etc) use.
Thanks in advance
Ron Burnett
Luscombe 8A
Rv-6A
Sent from my iPad
May you have the blessings of the Lord today.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Use for old ELT batts? |
Flashlight. The hideously expensive batteries in my 406 ELT are "D" size
but put out 3 volts. Replaced the bulb with an LED in a $5 flashlight
and re-purposed the expired batteries.
john
On 7/23/2016 4:49 PM, Ron Burnett wrote:
>
> I have 3 ELT batts that have expired legally but still put out reasonable voltage.
Any suggested uses with an easily rigged or wired solution? Especially
for a potential emergency (grid down, etc) use.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Ron Burnett
> Luscombe 8A
> Rv-6A
>
> Sent from my iPad
> May you have the blessings of the Lord today.
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Use for old ELT batts? |
Too funny!
-- Art Z.
Sent from my phone so please excuse typos and brevity.
On Jul 23, 2016 8:55 PM, "John Morgensen" <john@morgensen.com> wrote:
> john@morgensen.com>
>
> Flashlight. The hideously expensive batteries in my 406 ELT are "D" size
> but put out 3 volts. Replaced the bulb with an LED in a $5 flashlight and
> re-purposed the expired batteries.
>
> john
>
>
> On 7/23/2016 4:49 PM, Ron Burnett wrote:
>
>> ronburnett@charter.net>
>>
>> I have 3 ELT batts that have expired legally but still put out reasonable
>> voltage. Any suggested uses with an easily rigged or wired solution?
>> Especially for a potential emergency (grid down, etc) use.
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>>
>> Ron Burnett
>> Luscombe 8A
>> Rv-6A
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> May you have the blessings of the Lord today.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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