Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:33 AM - Re: sizing shared ground wire (Justin Jones)
2. 12:55 AM - Re: Batteries (Justin Jones)
3. 05:06 AM - Re: Batteries (Bill Watson)
4. 08:29 AM - Re: sizing shared ground wire (Ken Ryan)
5. 10:28 AM - Re: Batteries (Mark Donahue)
6. 10:50 AM - Re: Batteries (Justin Jones)
7. 11:26 AM - G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50 ()
8. 12:49 PM - Re: G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50 (Ralph E. Capen)
9. 01:05 PM - Re: Re: Intermittent Battery Failure (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 01:36 PM - Re: G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50 ()
11. 02:18 PM - Re: G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50 (Peter Pengilly)
12. 03:22 PM - Re: Batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 05:31 PM - Re: Switch For Thermocouple Wires (William Hunter)
14. 05:33 PM - Re: Ron Holt (Les Goldner)
15. 05:41 PM - Re: Batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 05:53 PM - Re: G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50 (Ralph E. Capen)
17. 06:14 PM - Re: Switch For Thermocouple Wires (Alec Myers)
18. 06:34 PM - Re: Switch For Thermocouple Wires (William Hunter)
19. 09:01 PM - Re: Switch For Thermocouple Wires (Charlie England)
20. 10:10 PM - Re: Switch For Thermocouple Wires (William Hunter)
21. 10:32 PM - Re: Switch For Thermocouple Wires (Eric Page)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: sizing shared ground wire |
Ken,
I live just north of you and bought my red beacons from Alaska Safety. Super
bright, led, 1 inch hole, and tons of pre programmed flashing codes.
If you ever come up to Wasilla, you should check out the beautiful SuperStol
that Mario's Aircraft Service is building. It is truly impressive and a wor
k of art!
Justin
> On Jul 26, 2016, at 00:54, Ken Ryan <keninalaska@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The airplane is Just SuperSTOL. The light is LED (Aveo Hercules). The grou
nds are shared because the pigtail coming out of the appliance only provides
for one common ground source.
>
> Now for the latest complication. When I read the documentation for the lig
ht, it was of the electronic brochure variety (attached) and when I looked a
t it I failed to note that it was actually for three different models of the
same light. Instead I just scanned down for the information I was looking f
or (amps). Of course the one that came up first was not the one I own, and t
he information was way off.
>
> The actual amperage for the model I have is shown to be 4.2A for taxi and 6
.3A for landing, far more than I originally thought. So, I will be pulling n
ew wires for sure. The wires are about 5 feet long.
>
> Final note, I have wired it so that both lights (when switched on) are alw
ays on the high setting, and the taxi light is always on the wig-wag setting
, and am using two SPST switches, one for landing, one for taxi. In reality t
he light will be used for collision avoidance. (I live in Anchorage and ther
e is a lot of small airplane traffic in this whole area. Mid-air collisions a
re a major concern. I also have two beacons, one on top of the fuselage and o
ne on the bottom.) Probably I will be running just the (flashing) taxi light
most of the time, but it might turn out that running both will be better. I
think only actual testing will determine that.
>
> Ken
>
>> On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 7:09 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@ae
roelectric.com> wrote:
>> At 09:35 AM 7/25/2016, you wrote:
>>
>>> Stu,
>>>
>>> He didn't say but I'm guessing that his landing light is not an incandes
cent. A 50W incandescent is pretty weak. A 50W LED landing light is a flame t
hrower. If it's LED there shouldn't be much if any inrush.
>>
>> Agreed. I'm curious as to why the grounds are shared.
>> In a TC aircraft, we would have independent grounds
>> for each appliance. If the ground is not already
>> pulled in I'd do separate strands. 22AWG is fine
>> for wiring both lamps as long as the lengths are
>> not really big. What kind of airplane?
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>
Message 2
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Mark,
Make sure you verify battery charging voltage. Low charging voltage (in the 1
3s) can cause premature battery failure on the AGM batteries.
Justin
> On Jul 25, 2016, at 16:06, Mark Donahue <marktdonahue@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> My Odyssey PC 680 battery in my RV-9A failed to start the engine after two
years in service. I removed to the dealer and after bench testing the CCA w
ere down to 70 amp. A new battery solved the problem, but I was disappointe
d in the short life. I did not have it on a charger and never ran it down.
It was just past the 24 month warranty.
> Hopefully the new one will last longer.
> Mark Donahue
> RV 9A
> 300 hours.
>
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelect
ric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BobbyPaulk@comcast.net
> Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 12:43 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Batteries
>
> Getting back to the Odessy PC680 for a moment.
> My first one was purchased in late 2006, removed in 2011 on general princi
pal ( over 4 yrs old. ).
> I removed it and installed it in my lawn mower and it is still going stron
g ( 10 years ).
> I just removed my second one over 5 years old because it was too weak to c
rank after years of cranking a very hard starting engine. Many times I ran i
t down and had to re-charge it in cooler weather. I fixed the hard starting s
o I do not anticipate any similar problems.
> Odyssey says 3 ~ 10 years service life so we will see.
>
> Bobby ( age 77 )
> Zodiac 601 XL "B"
> Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
> Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
> Status - Flying 268 hrs.
>
> Do Not Archive
Message 3
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I would 2nd that suggestion having had a lot of experience ruining
multiple Odyssey 680s.
My RV10 carries 2 of them. I had one operating on a bus that ran at
13.4 volts and one on a buss that runs at 14.5+. The batteries on the
13.4 volt circuit lived less than 2 years - an early but slow death.
You can also slowly kill discharged 680s by putting them on a low amp (2
amp charger) but that's well documented in the spec sheets and the AeroE
archives.
They are great batteries (light, powerful, long lasting) but the
charging requirements are a bit different than plain lead acid batts.
Bill "looking for more 680s to kill" Watson
On 7/26/2016 3:54 AM, Justin Jones wrote:
> Mark,
>
> Make sure you verify battery charging voltage. Low charging voltage
> (in the 13s) can cause premature battery failure on the AGM batteries.
>
> Justin
>
> On Jul 25, 2016, at 16:06, Mark Donahue <marktdonahue@comcast.net
> <mailto:marktdonahue@comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>> My Odyssey PC 680 battery in my RV-9A failed to start the engine
>> after two years in service. I removed to the dealer and after bench
>> testing the CCA were down to 70 amp. A new battery solved the
>> problem, but I was disappointed in the short life. I did not have it
>> on a charger and never ran it down. It was just past the 24 month
>> warranty.
>>
>> Hopefully the new one will last longer.
>>
>> Mark Donahue
>>
>> RV 9A
>>
>> 300 hours.
>>
>> *From:*owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com>
>> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
>> *BobbyPaulk@comcast.net <mailto:BobbyPaulk@comcast.net>
>> *Sent:* Monday, July 25, 2016 12:43 PM
>> *To:* aeroelectric-list
>> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: Batteries
>>
>> Getting back to the Odessy PC680 for a moment.
>>
>> My first one was purchased in late 2006, removed in 2011 on general
>> principal ( over 4 yrs old. ).
>>
>> I removed it and installed it in my lawn mower and it is still going
>> strong ( 10 years ).
>>
>> I just removed my second one over 5 years old because it was too weak
>> to crank after years of cranking a very hard starting engine. Many
>> times I ran it down and had to re-charge it in cooler weather. I
>> fixed the hard starting so I do not anticipate any similar problems.
>>
>> Odyssey says 3 ~ 10 years service life so we will see.
>>
>> Bobby ( age 77 )
>> Zodiac 601 XL "B"
>> Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
>> Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
>> Status - Flying 268 hrs.
>>
>> Do Not Archive
>>
---
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Message 4
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Subject: | Re: sizing shared ground wire |
Hi Justin, I never thought of buying beacons from Alaska Safety. Probably
would have saved a lot of money. I have heard of Mario's SuperSTOL. I
believe he is using the same fabric (Oratex) that I am (no painting
required). One thing I learned about the Oratex silver colored fabric that
I am using is that they say that you cannot put antennas inside the
aircraft. Normally on the SuperSTOL guys put the ELT antenna inside the
tail section but I had to come up with a different location because Oratex
folks said I couldn't do that with their silver fabric.
On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 7:22 PM, Justin Jones <jmjones2000@mindspring.com>
wrote:
> Ken,
> I live just north of you and bought my red beacons from Alaska Safety.
> Super bright, led, 1 inch hole, and tons of pre programmed flashing codes.
>
> If you ever come up to Wasilla, you should check out the beautiful
> SuperStol that Mario's Aircraft Service is building. It is truly impressive
> and a work of art!
>
> Justin
>
> On Jul 26, 2016, at 00:54, Ken Ryan <keninalaska@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The airplane is Just SuperSTOL. The light is LED (Aveo Hercules). The
> grounds are shared because the pigtail coming out of the appliance only
> provides for one common ground source.
>
> Now for the latest complication. When I read the documentation for the
> light, it was of the electronic brochure variety (attached) and when I
> looked at it I failed to note that it was actually for three different
> models of the same light. Instead I just scanned down for the information I
> was looking for (amps). Of course the one that came up first was not the
> one I own, and the information was way off.
>
> The actual amperage for the model I have is shown to be 4.2A for taxi and
> 6.3A for landing, far more than I originally thought. So, I will be pulling
> new wires for sure. The wires are about 5 feet long.
>
> Final note, I have wired it so that both lights (when switched on) are
> always on the high setting, and the taxi light is always on the wig-wag
> setting, and am using two SPST switches, one for landing, one for taxi. In
> reality the light will be used for collision avoidance. (I live in
> Anchorage and there is a lot of small airplane traffic in this whole area.
> Mid-air collisions are a major concern. I also have two beacons, one on top
> of the fuselage and one on the bottom.) Probably I will be running just the
> (flashing) taxi light most of the time, but it might turn out that running
> both will be better. I think only actual testing will determine that.
>
> Ken
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 7:09 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
>> At 09:35 AM 7/25/2016, you wrote:
>>
>> Stu,
>>
>> He didn't say but I'm guessing that his landing light is not an
>> incandescent. A 50W incandescent is pretty weak. A 50W LED landing light is
>> a flame thrower. If it's LED there shouldn't be much if any inrush.
>>
>>
>> Agreed. I'm curious as to why the grounds are shared.
>> In a TC aircraft, we would have independent grounds
>> for each appliance. If the ground is not already
>> pulled in I'd do separate strands. 22AWG is fine
>> for wiring both lamps as long as the lengths are
>> not really big. What kind of airplane?
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>
>
Message 5
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My voltage gauge indicates over 14 volts when the engine is running. I
will put my multimeter on it to confirm.
Thanks for the feedback.
Mark
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Watson
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 5:05 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Batteries
I would 2nd that suggestion having had a lot of experience ruining
multiple Odyssey 680s.
My RV10 carries 2 of them. I had one operating on a bus that ran at
13.4 volts and one on a buss that runs at 14.5+. The batteries on the
13.4 volt circuit lived less than 2 years - an early but slow death.
You can also slowly kill discharged 680s by putting them on a low amp (2
amp charger) but that's well documented in the spec sheets and the AeroE
archives.
They are great batteries (light, powerful, long lasting) but the
charging requirements are a bit different than plain lead acid batts.
Bill "looking for more 680s to kill" Watson
On 7/26/2016 3:54 AM, Justin Jones wrote:
Mark,
Make sure you verify battery charging voltage. Low charging voltage (in
the 13s) can cause premature battery failure on the AGM batteries.
Justin
On Jul 25, 2016, at 16:06, Mark Donahue <marktdonahue@comcast.net
<mailto:marktdonahue@comcast.net> > wrote:
My Odyssey PC 680 battery in my RV-9A failed to start the engine after
two years in service. I removed to the dealer and after bench testing
the CCA were down to 70 amp. A new battery solved the problem, but I
was disappointed in the short life. I did not have it on a charger and
never ran it down. It was just past the 24 month warranty.
Hopefully the new one will last longer.
Mark Donahue
RV 9A
300 hours.
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BobbyPaulk@comcast.net <mailto:BobbyPaulk@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 12:43 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Batteries
Getting back to the Odessy PC680 for a moment.
My first one was purchased in late 2006, removed in 2011 on general
principal ( over 4 yrs old. ).
I removed it and installed it in my lawn mower and it is still going
strong ( 10 years ).
I just removed my second one over 5 years old because it was too weak to
crank after years of cranking a very hard starting engine. Many times I
ran it down and had to re-charge it in cooler weather. I fixed the hard
starting so I do not anticipate any similar problems.
Odyssey says 3 ~ 10 years service life so we will see.
Bobby ( age 77 )
Zodiac 601 XL "B"
Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
Status - Flying 268 hrs.
Do Not Archive
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Message 6
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Maybe someone will correct me if I am wrong but it needs to be somewhere ver
y close to 14.4.
Justin
> On Jul 26, 2016, at 09:26, Mark Donahue <marktdonahue@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> My voltage gauge indicates over 14 volts when the engine is running. I wi
ll put my multimeter on it to confirm.
> Thanks for the feedback.
> Mark
>
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelect
ric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 5:05 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Batteries
>
> I would 2nd that suggestion having had a lot of experience ruining multipl
e Odyssey 680s.
>
> My RV10 carries 2 of them. I had one operating on a bus that ran at 13.4
volts and one on a buss that runs at 14.5+. The batteries on the 13.4 vol
t circuit lived less than 2 years - an early but slow death.
>
> You can also slowly kill discharged 680s by putting them on a low amp (2 a
mp charger) but that's well documented in the spec sheets and the AeroE arch
ives.
>
> They are great batteries (light, powerful, long lasting) but the charging r
equirements are a bit different than plain lead acid batts.
>
> Bill "looking for more 680s to kill" Watson
>
> On 7/26/2016 3:54 AM, Justin Jones wrote:
> Mark,
>
> Make sure you verify battery charging voltage. Low charging voltage (in th
e 13s) can cause premature battery failure on the AGM batteries.
>
> Justin
>
> On Jul 25, 2016, at 16:06, Mark Donahue <marktdonahue@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> My Odyssey PC 680 battery in my RV-9A failed to start the engine after two
years in service. I removed to the dealer and after bench testing the CCA w
ere down to 70 amp. A new battery solved the problem, but I was disappointe
d in the short life. I did not have it on a charger and never ran it down.
It was just past the 24 month warranty.
> Hopefully the new one will last longer.
> Mark Donahue
> RV 9A
> 300 hours.
>
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelect
ric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BobbyPaulk@comcast.net
> Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 12:43 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Batteries
>
> Getting back to the Odessy PC680 for a moment.
> My first one was purchased in late 2006, removed in 2011 on general princi
pal ( over 4 yrs old. ).
> I removed it and installed it in my lawn mower and it is still going stron
g ( 10 years ).
> I just removed my second one over 5 years old because it was too weak to c
rank after years of cranking a very hard starting engine. Many times I ran i
t down and had to re-charge it in cooler weather. I fixed the hard starting s
o I do not anticipate any similar problems.
> Odyssey says 3 ~ 10 years service life so we will see.
>
> Bobby ( age 77 )
> Zodiac 601 XL "B"
> Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
> Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
> Status - Flying 268 hrs.
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
> <~WRD000.jpg>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
>
>
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Subject: | G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50 |
Hi all,
The S-Tec Sys 50 Auto Pilot has a dedicated DG for heading mode and a dedicated
TC for leveling.
The new Garmin G5 interfaces with Garmin's GMC 30X AP interface.
Does anyone know, if G5 (used as stand alone) can interface with Sys 50 AP in terms
of steering Sys 50 via the heading bug (Sys 50 heading mode) and to serve
as its Turn Coordinator ?
Rumen
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Subject: | Re: G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50 |
Good question,
I am looking for a HSI replacement for my Century NSD1000 - this looks like it
has great potential...The heading bug is the critical path to full functionality
in my implementation.
If it outputs the same ARINC command strings as their 400W/500W series GPS units,
it will be compatible with S-Tec autopilots via the GPSS interface. I have
a S-Tec 30 working with my 420W using the GPSS interface. The GPSS interface
is also optional for the fifty series.
Let me know if you get a response from Garmin on this one as I am interested as
well!
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: rd2@dejazzd.com
>Sent: Jul 26, 2016 2:25 PM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50
>
>
>Hi all,
>
>The S-Tec Sys 50 Auto Pilot has a dedicated DG for heading mode and a dedicated
TC for leveling.
>
>The new Garmin G5 interfaces with Garmin's GMC 30X AP interface.
>
>Does anyone know, if G5 (used as stand alone) can interface with Sys 50 AP in
terms of steering Sys 50 via the heading bug (Sys 50 heading mode) and to serve
as its Turn Coordinator ?
>
>Rumen
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Intermittent Battery Failure |
At 06:47 PM 7/25/2016, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>I sent the battery along with a note. If the battery appears to be
>dead, wait and check it again the next day. Or apply pressure to
>the front and back side of the case. There seems to be an
>intermittent internal open circuit.
It didn't want to 'work' out of the box.
I'll let it set for awhile. I was hoping
to evaluate the state-of-the-chemistry
but perhaps the stresses of shipping were
too much. I'm imagining an internal weld
fracture. We'll massage it a bit before
I cut the case open.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50 |
Tx for the feedback, Ralph.
I don't know about a response from Garmin (for this this particular application),
as their primary purpose was to interface the G5 with their G3X. But it seems
like a little gem with potential and has RS-232 and CAN communication interfaces.
I'll keep digging, hopefully will get the info we need.
Rumen
do not archive
---- "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net> wrote:
============
Good question,
I am looking for a HSI replacement for my Century NSD1000 - this looks like it
has great potential...The heading bug is the critical path to full functionality
in my implementation.
If it outputs the same ARINC command strings as their 400W/500W series GPS units,
it will be compatible with S-Tec autopilots via the GPSS interface. I have
a S-Tec 30 working with my 420W using the GPSS interface. The GPSS interface
is also optional for the fifty series.
Let me know if you get a response from Garmin on this one as I am interested as
well!
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: rd2@dejazzd.com
>Sent: Jul 26, 2016 2:25 PM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50
>
>
>Hi all,
>
>The S-Tec Sys 50 Auto Pilot has a dedicated DG for heading mode and a dedicated
TC for leveling.
>
>The new Garmin G5 interfaces with Garmin's GMC 30X AP interface.
>
>Does anyone know, if G5 (used as stand alone) can interface with Sys 50 AP in
terms of steering Sys 50 via the heading bug (Sys 50 heading mode) and to serve
as its Turn Coordinator ?
>
>Rumen
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50 |
Garmin says the G5 is not designed to interface with 3rd party autopilots
...
On 26 Jul 2016 19:46, <rd2@dejazzd.com> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> The S-Tec Sys 50 Auto Pilot has a dedicated DG for heading mode and a
> dedicated TC for leveling.
>
> The new Garmin G5 interfaces with Garmin's GMC 30X AP interface.
>
> Does anyone know, if G5 (used as stand alone) can interface with Sys 50 AP
> in terms of steering Sys 50 via the heading bug (Sys 50 heading mode) and
> to serve as its Turn Coordinator ?
>
> Rumen
>
>
Message 12
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At 12:49 PM 7/26/2016, you wrote:
>Maybe someone will correct me if I am wrong but it needs to be
>somewhere very close to 14.4.
>
Enersys is 'happy' with anything between
14.1 and 14.7 volts. See:
http://tinyurl.com/hb4s7c4
. . . in particular Figure 6 and first
paragraph on page 13.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Switch For Thermocouple Wires |
Thanks Charlie,
>Don't forget that your alarm setting in the Dynon may cause false alarms
if there's a big difference in 'normal' temps between the two sensors.)
I am somewhat interested in knowing how hot a fire is... The plan would be
to install the Thermocouple on the firewall above the fuel hoses as these
are arguably the likely suspects. Then I would have a temperature read out
(just numerical value) displayed somewhere on the screen below the engine
"guages".
The idea being the display would be white digits until the temperature
indication raises above a predetermined values and then turn red.
Any recommendations on that value should be so as to avoid faulse readings?
Bill Hunter
On Jul 24, 2016 4:57 PM, "Charlie England" <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:
ceengland7@gmail.com>
On 7/24/2016 5:35 PM, William Hunter wrote:
>
> I do not have sufficient pins left over in my Dynon EMS for my temperature
> monitoring needs.
>
> One of the items I do not need to monitor on a regular basis is the
> turbocharger intercooler outlet temperature (the actual temperature of the
> air entering the engine inlet) as I just really need to see that on a very
> hot day.
>
> Since this airplane is a pusher there is no visual indication of smoke or
> fire like on a tractor airplane so I would really like to have an internal
> engine cowling temperature indication using a thermocouple. I envision
> setting up the Skyview to trigger a red indication and a warning if a fire
> develops in the engine compartment and the temperature exceeds a preset
> limit and then I can react faster than waiting for the really bad day to
> develop.
>
> Since the engine inlet temperature is a NICE to know item and the engine
> cowling is a NEED to know... I was thinking about installing two
> thermocouples one in the inlet and one in the engine compartment and then
> wire each pair of wires to a DPST switch and then this switch would remain
> in the position to sence the NEED to know information 99 percent of the
> time and then flicked to the NICE to know position when it is becomes nice
> to know.
>
> Other than the usual solid connectors and quality switch requirements is
> there anything special to consider with thermocouple wires?
>
> THANKS!!!
>
> Bill Hunter
>
> To keep accuracy, you need to switch both leads. If you're just switching
between 2 sensors, use a DPDT switch, so that the meter sees either both
wires from one, or both wires from the other. Reason for switching both
leads is that any 'junction' (connector, switch terminals, etc),
particularly when the metal changes, like it would going through a switch,
causes errors in measurement. If both leads are switched in the same space
(meaning same temperature), then the errors cancel each other.
(Don't forget that your alarm setting in the Dynon may cause false alarms
if there's a big difference in 'normal' temps between the two sensors.)
Charlie
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CiAgICAKwqBXb3VsZCBoYXZlIGJlZW4gZ2xhZCB0byBhc3Npc3QsIGJ1dCBhbSBpbiBPc2hrb3No
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bGQgYmUgZ3JlYXRUaGFua3MgYW5kIEkgaG9wZSB5b3UgYXJlIGhhdmluZyBmdW5SaWNoYXJk
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At 05:21 PM 7/26/2016, you wrote:
>At 12:49 PM 7/26/2016, you wrote:
>>Maybe someone will correct me if I am wrong but it needs to be
>>somewhere very close to 14.4.
>
>
> Enersys is 'happy' with anything between
> 14.1 and 14.7 volts. See:
>
>
>http://tinyurl.com/hb4s7c4
>
> . . . in particular Figure 6 and first
> paragraph on page 13.
P.S. On page 4 of the same document we find this
Emacs!
It seems that voltages from 13.5 to 15.0
will 'safely' charge an Odyssey (and probably
any other lead-acid technology) with preferences
based on type of service. I've been running some
data plots on a pair of SVLA batteries. Here's a
small excerpt of that data set.
Emacs!
The lower of these 5 plots is performance of a
battery charged at 13.2 volts. The energy stored
is 78% of the upper curve (charged at 14.6v).
Moving up from the bottom we have 13.2v charge,
A Battery Tender recharge, a 13.5v charge, a 14.2v
charge and finally 14.6v charge.
Without going into all the features of the test (a
report will be published), we can see that 13.5 to
14.6v charge potentials produce a well charged
device with an 11% differential in stored energy. What
is not obvious from these plots is the TIME it takes
to reach maximum transfer of recharge energy . . . I
think it took about 6 hours for the 13.5 volt test
charge to drop to 5% of max charge (2.00 amps).
The take away from these experiments combined with the
information from the Odyssey tech manual is that
13.4 is probably way too low for cyclic service (moderate
to heavy use over a few hours interspersed with perhaps
days of idle time). But it seems likely that the battery
feed from the 13.4v bus was chronically undercharged.
If you're still running two batteries with this
same disparity of recharge voltage, it would be
interesting to cap-check the two devices. Sufice
it to say that the performance of any lead-acid
product would perform pretty close to expectations
in aircraft when charged at the legacy 14.2 plus
or minus 0.2 volts. Further, running a bus voltage
as high as 15.0 in cyclic duty doesn't give
Enersys any heartburn.
Is there any way you can get both batteries to operated
at 14.5 volts?
Bob . . .
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50 |
It's a shame they're blind in the foresight department:
This device could replace every $12,000 HSI installation when the internal gyros
fail.
This device could get every homebuilder into glass screens.
This device could salvage Garmin's monopolistic reputation...
Remember IBM's MicroChannel architecture - and the Sony BetaMax VCR's...both were
proprietary monopolistic versions of other devices that nearly cost these companies
their existence.
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Pengilly
Sent: Jul 26, 2016 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: G5 <-> S-Tec Sys 50
Garmin says the G5 is not designed to interface with 3rd party autopilots ...
On 26 Jul 2016 19:46, <rd2@dejazzd.com> wrote:
Hi all,
The S-Tec Sys 50 Auto Pilot has a dedicated DG for heading mode and a dedicated
TC for leveling.
The new Garmin G5 interfaces with Garmin's GMC 30X AP interface.
Does anyone know, if G5 (used as stand alone) can interface with Sys 50 AP in terms
of steering Sys 50 via the heading bug (Sys 50 heading mode) and to serve
as its Turn Coordinator ?
Rumen
==========
-
Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
==========
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eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
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errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
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rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Switch For Thermocouple Wires |
No suggestions from me about a good temperature threshold for the fire alarm
except that it's just begging for some experimentation :-)
> On Jul 26, 2016, at 8:29 PM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com> w
rote:
>
> Thanks Charlie,
>
> >Don't forget that your alarm setting in the Dynon may cause false alarms i
f there's a big difference in 'normal' temps between the two sensors.)
>
> I am somewhat interested in knowing how hot a fire is... The plan would be
to install the Thermocouple on the firewall above the fuel hoses as these a
re arguably the likely suspects. Then I would have a temperature read out (j
ust numerical value) displayed somewhere on the screen below the engine "gua
ges".
>
> The idea being the display would be white digits until the temperature ind
ication raises above a predetermined values and then turn red.
>
> Any recommendations on that value should be so as to avoid faulse readings
?
>
> Bill Hunter
>
> On Jul 24, 2016 4:57 PM, "Charlie England" <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:
.com>
>
>
>> On 7/24/2016 5:35 PM, William Hunter wrote:
>>
>> I do not have sufficient pins left over in my Dynon EMS for my temperatur
e monitoring needs.
>>
>> One of the items I do not need to monitor on a regular basis is the turbo
charger intercooler outlet temperature (the actual temperature of the air en
tering the engine inlet) as I just really need to see that on a very hot day
.
>>
>> Since this airplane is a pusher there is no visual indication of smoke or
fire like on a tractor airplane so I would really like to have an internal e
ngine cowling temperature indication using a thermocouple. I envision settin
g up the Skyview to trigger a red indication and a warning if a fire develop
s in the engine compartment and the temperature exceeds a preset limit and t
hen I can react faster than waiting for the really bad day to develop.
>>
>> Since the engine inlet temperature is a NICE to know item and the engine c
owling is a NEED to know... I was thinking about installing two thermocouple
s one in the inlet and one in the engine compartment and then wire each pair
of wires to a DPST switch and then this switch would remain in the position
to sence the NEED to know information 99 percent of the time and then flic
ked to the NICE to know position when it is becomes nice to know.
>>
>> Other than the usual solid connectors and quality switch requirements is t
here anything special to consider with thermocouple wires?
>>
>> THANKS!!!
>>
>> Bill Hunter
> To keep accuracy, you need to switch both leads. If you're just switching b
etween 2 sensors, use a DPDT switch, so that the meter sees either both wire
s from one, or both wires from the other. Reason for switching both leads is
that any 'junction' (connector, switch terminals, etc), particularly when t
he metal changes, like it would going through a switch, causes errors in mea
surement. If both leads are switched in the same space (meaning same tempera
ture), then the errors cancel each other.
>
> (Don't forget that your alarm setting in the Dynon may cause false alarms i
f there's a big difference in 'normal' temps between the two sensors.)
>
> Charlie
>
> ==========
> -
> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Switch For Thermocouple Wires |
I'll light the fuse and let you know
Bill Hunter
On Jul 26, 2016 6:22 PM, "Alec Myers" <alec@alecmyers.com> wrote:
> No suggestions from me about a good temperature threshold for the fire
> alarm except that it's just begging for some experimentation :-)
>
> On Jul 26, 2016, at 8:29 PM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Thanks Charlie,
>
> >Don't forget that your alarm setting in the Dynon may cause false alarms
> if there's a big difference in 'normal' temps between the two sensors.)
>
> I am somewhat interested in knowing how hot a fire is... The plan would be
> to install the Thermocouple on the firewall above the fuel hoses as these
> are arguably the likely suspects. Then I would have a temperature read out
> (just numerical value) displayed somewhere on the screen below the engine
> "guages".
>
> The idea being the display would be white digits until the temperature
> indication raises above a predetermined values and then turn red.
>
> Any recommendations on that value should be so as to avoid faulse
> readings?
>
> Bill Hunter
>
> On Jul 24, 2016 4:57 PM, "Charlie England" <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ceengland7@gmail.com>
>
>
> On 7/24/2016 5:35 PM, William Hunter wrote:
>
>>
>> I do not have sufficient pins left over in my Dynon EMS for my
>> temperature monitoring needs.
>>
>> One of the items I do not need to monitor on a regular basis is the
>> turbocharger intercooler outlet temperature (the actual temperature of the
>> air entering the engine inlet) as I just really need to see that on a very
>> hot day.
>>
>> Since this airplane is a pusher there is no visual indication of smoke or
>> fire like on a tractor airplane so I would really like to have an internal
>> engine cowling temperature indication using a thermocouple. I envision
>> setting up the Skyview to trigger a red indication and a warning if a fire
>> develops in the engine compartment and the temperature exceeds a preset
>> limit and then I can react faster than waiting for the really bad day to
>> develop.
>>
>> Since the engine inlet temperature is a NICE to know item and the engine
>> cowling is a NEED to know... I was thinking about installing two
>> thermocouples one in the inlet and one in the engine compartment and then
>> wire each pair of wires to a DPST switch and then this switch would remain
>> in the position to sence the NEED to know information 99 percent of the
>> time and then flicked to the NICE to know position when it is becomes nice
>> to know.
>>
>> Other than the usual solid connectors and quality switch requirements is
>> there anything special to consider with thermocouple wires?
>>
>> THANKS!!!
>>
>> Bill Hunter
>>
>> To keep accuracy, you need to switch both leads. If you're just switching
> between 2 sensors, use a DPDT switch, so that the meter sees either both
> wires from one, or both wires from the other. Reason for switching both
> leads is that any 'junction' (connector, switch terminals, etc),
> particularly when the metal changes, like it would going through a switch,
> causes errors in measurement. If both leads are switched in the same space
> (meaning same temperature), then the errors cancel each other.
>
> (Don't forget that your alarm setting in the Dynon may cause false alarms
> if there's a big difference in 'normal' temps between the two sensors.)
>
> Charlie
>
> ==========
> -
> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Switch For Thermocouple Wires |
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Subject: | Switch For Thermocouple Wires |
> What I meant was that measuring different temp ranges (inlet vs cowl),
they're likely to have different normal ranges. So, setting up the alarm
point in the efis would be different for each source.
Thanksthe plan would be for the selector switch to live in the
COWL TEMP setting 99.3 percent of the time (watching for an engine fire)
so the cowl temp predetermined trigger point is really all that I am
interested inI guess I can just SWAG 500F as the trigger point
for the white to red digits in Dynon and after watching the digits
during some normal very hot day operations I can see what the usual
engine cowl internal temps will be (and the rate of increase) and then
adjust accordingly. I wonder if I can teach the nice Dynon girl to say
=9CWarning=9D or =9CEngine Fire=9D or
somethinga calm British accent would be really cool?!?!?
The engine turbo intercooler exhaust is simply a Gee Wizz indication for
the remainder 0.7 percent so no real concern for the trigger, colors, or
British babe voice.
..
Cheers!!!
Bill Hunter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Charlie England
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch For Thermocouple Wires
Sorry; no idea. What I meant was that measuring different temp ranges
(inlet vs cowl), they're likely to have different normal ranges. So,
setting up the alarm point in the efis would be different for each
source.
-------- Original message --------
From: William Hunter
Date:07/26/2016 7:29 PM (GMT-06:00)
<mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch For Thermocouple Wires
Thanks Charlie,
>Don't forget that your alarm setting in the Dynon may cause false
alarms if there's a big difference in 'normal' temps between the two
sensors.)
I am somewhat interested in knowing how hot a fire is... The plan would
be to install the Thermocouple on the firewall above the fuel hoses as
these are arguably the likely suspects. Then I would have a temperature
read out (just numerical value) displayed somewhere on the screen below
the engine "guages".
The idea being the display would be white digits until the temperature
indication raises above a predetermined values and then turn red.
Any recommendations on that value should be so as to avoid faulse
readings?
Bill Hunter
On Jul 24, 2016 4:57 PM, "Charlie England" <ceengland7@gmail.com
<mailto:ceengland7@gmail.com> > wrote:
<ceengland7@gmail.com <mailto:ceengland7@gmail.com> >
On 7/24/2016 5:35 PM, William Hunter wrote:
I do not have sufficient pins left over in my Dynon EMS for my
temperature monitoring needs.
One of the items I do not need to monitor on a regular basis is the
turbocharger intercooler outlet temperature (the actual temperature of
the air entering the engine inlet) as I just really need to see that on
a very hot day.
Since this airplane is a pusher there is no visual indication of smoke
or fire like on a tractor airplane so I would really like to have an
internal engine cowling temperature indication using a thermocouple. I
envision setting up the Skyview to trigger a red indication and a
warning if a fire develops in the engine compartment and the temperature
exceeds a preset limit and then I can react faster than waiting for the
really bad day to develop.
Since the engine inlet temperature is a NICE to know item and the engine
cowling is a NEED to know... I was thinking about installing two
thermocouples one in the inlet and one in the engine compartment and
then wire each pair of wires to a DPST switch and then this switch would
remain in the position to sence the NEED to know information 99 percent
of the time and then flicked to the NICE to know position when it is
becomes nice to know.
Other than the usual solid connectors and quality switch requirements is
there anything special to consider with thermocouple wires?
THANKS!!!
Bill Hunter
To keep accuracy, you need to switch both leads. If you're just
switching between 2 sensors, use a DPDT switch, so that the meter sees
either both wires from one, or both wires from the other. Reason for
switching both leads is that any 'junction' (connector, switch
terminals, etc), particularly when the metal changes, like it would
going through a switch, causes errors in measurement. If both leads are
switched in the same space (meaning same temperature), then the errors
cancel each other.
(Don't forget that your alarm setting in the Dynon may cause false
alarms if there's a big difference in 'normal' temps between the two
sensors.)
Charlie
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Subject: | Re: Switch For Thermocouple Wires |
On Jul 26, 2016, at 5:29 PM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com> wro
te:
> I am somewhat interested in knowing how hot a fire is...
>
For gasoline, ignition temp is 232=C2=B0C and flame temp varies from ~945=C2
=B0C to 1,950=C2=B0C depending on conditions.
Eric
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