Today's Message Index:
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1. 06:21 AM - Re: Intermittent Battery Failure (user9253)
2. 09:16 AM - Tin contact finish (Jim Brewer)
3. 12:02 PM - Using the "Poor man's 4-wire milliohmmeter" (Kent or Jackie Ashton)
4. 12:29 PM - PM Alternator (BobbyPaulk@comcast.net)
5. 02:14 PM - Re: Using the "Poor man's 4-wire milliohmmeter" (user9253)
6. 05:07 PM - Re: Using the "Poor man's 4-wire milliohmmeter" (user9253)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Intermittent Battery Failure |
There are lots of owners of Rotax powered aircraft in the USA who would replace
the Ducati regulator with a Silent Hektik if they could find a dealer willing
to sell to USA customers.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=459089#459089
Message 2
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| Subject: | Tin contact finish |
To answer the question, "Why a tin contact finish." According to Jim
Weir, of Kitplanes Magazine, at a Oshkosh forum this week, the
explanation was that you have "wiping contact" that will not corrode.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Using the "Poor man's 4-wire milliohmmeter" |
Hi Bob,
I made one of these to troubleshoot a sluggish starter on a Long-EZ from your excellent discussion here http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grnding.pdf I suspect I have some bad solder joints in connectors on copper-clad aluminum cables and thinking of the best way to test for excessive resistance. I am thinking:
I could test each connector joint by isolating the cable & connector and probing
between the clean bare cable and the connector, or
Alternatively, perhaps I could test the entire cable run and the solenoids by
disconnecting the cable it at the battery and the starter, activating the master
and starter solenoids with a portable battery and probing between the battery-end
and the starter-end.
Or could I disconnect the starter cable at the starter, active the master and
starter solenoids with the usual switchology and probe between the battery post
and the starter-end of the cables. Does connection to the battery affect the
test?
Whats your preferred strategy here? Thanks.
-Kent
Message 4
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Bob,
Several months ago I sent you the burned coils from my Jabiru 3300 PM alternator.
At the time I had not removed the rare earth magnet rotor??
I have since replaced it with a 40 amp alternator and it is a much better system.
I soon forgot about it due to age related whatever.
Anyway I ran across it today ( while looking for something else ) and was wondering
if you were interested in it I would send it to you.
I vaguely remember you stating you were working with PM Alts.
Bobby
Jabiru 3300 260 hrs.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Using the "Poor man's 4-wire milliohmmeter" |
Disconnect the starter and replace it with a high wattage load. Connect the negative
side of the high wattage load to the starter housing. Turn on the battery
contactor and the starter contactor. Connect the RED voltmeter lead to the
POSITIVE battery post. Then using the black voltmeter probe, measure the voltage
drop at various points between the positive battery post and the high wattage
load. Harbor Freight sells a 100 amp battery load tester for $22.
http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html
Read the reviews before buying it.
Repeat the above test measuring voltage drop between the negative battery post
and the starter housing.
Disclaimer: I have never had to perform this test.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=459126#459126
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Using the "Poor man's 4-wire milliohmmeter" |
Kent,
Of the three methods that you posted, I like #2 the best except that I suggest
you disconnect the aircraft battery negative terminal, not the positive terminal.
That will allow you to test the positive battery connection too.
Method 3 has the problem of aircraft battery current flowing through the cable
under test between the battery and the master contactor. That current will affect
the test.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=459129#459129
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