Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:02 AM - Re: Re: Ducatti R/R deficiencies (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 12:28 PM - Isolating the Rotax alternator (spcialeffects)
3. 05:16 PM - Re: Isolating the Rotax alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:26 PM - Heads-up on eBay Ni-Mh offering (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:24 PM - Re: Heads-up on eBay Ni-Mh offering (Jim Baker)
6. 07:31 PM - Re: Alternator failure mode (David Saylor)
7. 07:52 PM - Re: Alternator failure mode (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 07:53 PM - Alternator failure mode (David Saylor)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Ducatti R/R deficiencies |
At 06:36 PM 9/7/2016, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>You have a few misconceptions about the Rotax regulator. All the
>power components are screwed to the case, heatsink compound is used.
>Rotax does not depend on the potting compound for heatsinking the
>power components. In your photo, item 1 and 2 are SCRs
>(MCR16N). Item 3 is a MOSFET to drive the fault lamp. The power
>diodes (button case) are not shown, they would attach between the
>plate on the left side and the two leads on the lower left side of
>the PCB. This version is obsolete since late 2009.
Interesting! Yes I missed that. This EMT studies
thing has been a profound distraction.
Dave had alluded to solder problems
with the design as well. I'm a bit amazed by your
findings . . . solder? Gee . . . soldering is as
generic to electronics manufacturing as water
is to fish. Yet the problems you've identified
suggest that some of Ducatti's fish are flopping
around on the bank.
It's unfortunate that Silent-Hektik is not more
widely distributed. I had one in my shop to
evaluate (but didn't have access to the drive
stand). Nonetheless, it exudes an air of
quality.
I've got a customer project to get off the bench
this week and then I'll finish up my drive stand
for pad-driven alternators. The machine work
for the proof of concept package I posted a
few days ago is done, I'll pick up the parts
in Wichita today or tomorrow.
This really isn't rocket science. It's like
baking a cake . . . there are benefits to be
secured by following time-tested recipes
for success. We'll get some real numbers off
of a R/R fabricated from robust parts intimately
acquainted with capable heat-sinking . . . assembled
with Kester 63/37 solder!
Thanks for sharing your discoveries . . .
Bob . . .
Message 2
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Subject: | Isolating the Rotax alternator |
Hi all. I am building a europa with a rotax 914 engine. I am having quite a few
electrical goodies and for this reason i am having/need 2 alternators which will
run together, the rotax alternator will run an essential bus bar and the auxiliary
b&c 420 alternator will run a load shed bus bar. Also the batteries (2)
I'm having are the Li-5 Red Top Lithium Phosphate. As part of the LAA here
in the UK the modification to use these batteries requires a means of isolating
both batteries AND both alternators.
I'm using Mr Knuckles mother of all electrical systems as my main platform.
In the cockpit I'm using 2 cessna duel rocker switches, 1 for each system and
a carlin toggle switch for the cross over feed. Now the auxiliary alternator
i can isolate using the field wire but the rotax alternator doesn't have one.
I spoke to my rotax engineer and he said i could interrupt one of the ac yellow
wires, before it goes to the regulator, which by the way is a Schicke GR6,
and put a 40amp relay in which i can switch on and off. I would just like to
confirm with those of you much more capable than me, if this is correct.
This side of my build, electrics, is by far the most challenging discipline
i have tried to understand.
Many thanks Frank
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460361#460361
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Isolating the Rotax alternator |
At 02:26 PM 9/8/2016, you wrote:
><spcialeffects@aol.com>
>
>Hi all. I am building a europa with a rotax 914 engine. I am having
>quite a few electrical goodies and for this reason i am having/need
>2 alternators which will run together, the rotax alternator will run
>an essential bus bar and the auxiliary b&c 420 alternator will run a
>load shed bus bar. Also the batteries (2) I'm having are the Li-5
>Red Top Lithium Phosphate. As part of the LAA here in the UK the
>modification to use these batteries requires a means of isolating
>both batteries AND both alternators.
> I'm using Mr Knuckles mother of all electrical systems as my
> main platform. In the cockpit I'm using 2 cessna duel rocker
> switches, 1 for each system and a carlin toggle switch for the
> cross over feed. Now the auxiliary alternator i can isolate using
> the field wire but the rotax alternator doesn't have one. I spoke
> to my rotax engineer and he said i could interrupt one of the ac
> yellow wires, before it goes to the regulator, which by the way is
> a Schicke GR6, and put a 40amp relay in which i can switch on and
> off. I would just like to confirm with those of you much more
> capable than me, if this is correct.
That would be my recommendation
> This side of my build, electrics, is by far the most
> challenging discipline i have tried to understand.
>
>
>Many thanks Frank
You're most welcome.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | Heads-up on eBay Ni-Mh offering |
I've tested a LOT of batteries of all stripe purchased off the
Internet. Sadly, more than half of those claiming extra-ordinary
capacity will not deliver even a large fraction of claimed capacity.
Tenergy products tested in my lab are the exception. Both the 10Ah (D
size) and 3800mAh (subC-size) cells delivered very close to nameplate
ratings. I gave them 4 stars only because the jury is still out on
service life . . . but I am optimistic.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Heads-up on eBay Ni-Mh offering |
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Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Alternator failure mode |
Several weeks ago I posted about an alternator failure. Here are a few
more details.
I tested the field circuit as Bob recommended, and it all checked out.
After un/plugging the alternator connector several times, I noticed that
the terminal within the connector that supplies the low voltage light had
failed. Part was still crimped to the airframe wire, and part was held
fast in the connector. I replaced the connector, and since all the wiring
checked out, and since the alternator had last been working, I tried the
alternator again.
This time it had a hard failure. Zero amps, and just battery voltage on
the bus. There wasn't any odd behavior this time. It just didn't work.
So I rechecked all the wiring, and it all checked out. I installed a new
alternator and it works fine.
I took the back cover off the failed alternator and found it as shown in
the pictures.
I think undamaged terminal is the ground. It seems to attach to the
alternator case. The failed terminal connects to what I assume is the
regulator.
The only explanation I can offer is that I lightly washed the alternator in
solvent while it was removed for other engine work. I might have
contaminated the brush/commutator interface. I didn't soak it--just a
light external cleaning.
Any guesses as to how an impending failure like this could have given me
the overvoltage without opening the field breaker? I hope this was a
one-in-a-zillion and that Plane Power's overvoltage protection is useful.
--Dave
On Sat, Jul 30, 2016 at 6:47 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
> Yes, the breaker is the only control. Otherwise the alternator comes on
> with the battery. I had the breaker pulled before start because of of som
e
> extended battery-on tests.=C3=82
>
>
> Okay . . . it would be a good lick to open the
> breaker, clip an ammeter across the breaker,
> battery on, engine not running. CONFIRM that
> what appears to be field excitation current
> is running through the breaker.
>
>
> Again, it didn't last long but it was very strange to see the OV and the
> breaker popped--I had to tell myself to shut down instead of analyze,
> before the magic smoke came out...
>
>
> Good move . . .
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Alternator failure mode |
>
>The only explanation I can offer is that I
>lightly washed the alternator in solvent while
>it was removed for other engine work.=C2 I might
>have contaminated the brush/commutator
>interface.=C2 I didn't soak it--just a light external cleaning.
>
>Any guesses as to how an impending failure like
>this could have given me the overvoltage without
>opening the field breaker?=C2 I hope this was a
>one-in-a-zillion and that Plane Power's overvoltage protection is useful.
I'm not privy to the intimate details of
the Plain Power approach to modifying the
stock alternator for external control of the
field circuit. All I have to go on is based
on a telephone conversation with PP right
after the crow-bar mod came on the market.
Do you still have the whole alternator and
all it's pieces? I wouldn't mind doing a
autopsy on it. I'd pay postage both ways.
What I can see in the pictures doesn't give me
a clear notion of what might have failed first
but it would be interesting to see if that
fact is discoverable.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Subject: | Alternator failure mode |
Several weeks ago I posted about an alternator failure. Here are a few
more details.
I tested the field circuit as Bob recommended, and it all checked out.
After un/plugging the alternator connector several times, I noticed that
the terminal within the connector that supplies the low voltage light had
failed. Part was still crimped to the airframe wire, and part was held
fast in the connector. I replaced the connector, and since all the wiring
checked out, and since the alternator had last been working, I tried the
alternator again.
This time it had a hard failure. Zero amps, and just battery voltage on
the bus. There wasn't any odd behavior this time. It just didn't work.
So I rechecked all the wiring, and it all checked out. I installed a new
alternator and it works fine.
I took the back cover off the failed alternator and found it as shown in
the pictures.
I think undamaged terminal is the ground. It seems to attach to the
alternator case. The failed terminal connects to what I assume is the
regulator.
The only explanation I can offer is that I lightly washed the alternator in
solvent while it was removed for other engine work. I might have
contaminated the brush/commutator interface. I didn't soak it--just a
light external cleaning.
Any guesses as to how an impending failure like this could have given me
the overvoltage without opening the field breaker? I hope this was a
one-in-a-zillion and that Plane Power's overvoltage protection is useful.
--Dave
On Sat, Jul 30, 2016 at 6:47 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
> Yes, the breaker is the only control. Otherwise the alternator comes on
> with the battery. I had the breaker pulled before start because of of som
e
> extended battery-on tests.=C3=82
>
>
> Okay . . . it would be a good lick to open the
> breaker, clip an ammeter across the breaker,
> battery on, engine not running. CONFIRM that
> what appears to be field excitation current
> is running through the breaker.
>
>
> Again, it didn't last long but it was very strange to see the OV and the
> breaker popped--I had to tell myself to shut down instead of analyze,
> before the magic smoke came out...
>
>
> Good move . . .
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
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