Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:46 AM - Suggested tool for stripping plug leads (Linda Walker)
2. 05:26 AM - Re: Suggested tool for stripping plug leads (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 07:58 AM - E-Bus Fuse - Advisable? (user9253)
4. 09:11 AM - Re: E-Bus Fuse - Advisable? (Charlie England)
5. 08:04 PM - Re: E-Bus Fuse - Advisable? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 09:10 PM - Z-12 questions (William Greenley)
7. 10:45 PM - Re: Z-12 questions (don van santen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Suggested tool for stripping plug leads |
I have a request for the forum to suggest a suitable tool for the following please:
I am re-wiring the spark plug leads in the cap of a Slick magneto.
The wire has a thin silicone-like sheath around a braided shield.
Next, the insulator is not quite like that found in a RG400 coax cable for instance.
The core is stranded wire.
The rquirements are to trim the cable to the following approximate lengths; shield
.4" and the insulator .7" with the core a further .2".
I have tried a Radioshack coax stripper but this did not work well.
Any other suggestions very welcome.
Thanks.
Patrick Elliott
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Suggested tool for stripping plug leads |
At 03:44 AM 12/10/2016, you wrote:
>
>
>I have a request for the forum to suggest a suitable tool for the
>following please:
>
>I am re-wiring the spark plug leads in the cap of a Slick magneto.
>
>The wire has a thin silicone-like sheath around a braided shield.
>Next, the insulator is not quite like that found in a RG400 coax
>cable for instance.
>The core is stranded wire.
>
>The rquirements are to trim the cable to the following approximate
>lengths; shield .4" and the insulator .7" with the core a further .2".
>I have tried a Radioshack coax stripper but this did not work well.
>
>Any other suggestions very welcome.
>Thanks.
>Patrick Elliott
How many of these do you need to do? There
MIGHT be 3-blade strippers like those used
for coax
Emacs!
These feature adjustments on depth of cut
but the spacing between the blades is fixed
and unique to the mating connectors. Unless
you have a lot of these wires to strip, you
would probably do well to practice making your
cuts with an Xacto knife on some scraps of
wire.
A websearch on spark plug wire strippers
yielded some results . . .
[]
This tool offered by MSD has a blade guide for
manual stripping and also crimps the bear-hug grips
on terminals. I also found what appears to be an adjustable
2-blade tool. Suggest you explore local auto-parts stores
especially speed-shops that cater to the more adventuresome
DIYers.
[]
Emacs!
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | E-Bus Fuse - Advisable? |
There has been a recent discussion on VansAirforce questioning whether or not the
E-Bus should be fused.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=144607
In that thread, I stated that if two fuses or breakers are connected in series,
a hard short circuit can blow both simultaneously, even if one of them is much
larger than the other. Someone questioned whether that is actually true.
What do you think?
In Z-11, both the E-Bus feeder and the Nav/Com are protected by 7 amp fuses.
If there is a hard short in the Nav/Com circuit, which of the two fuses in series
will blow?
Perhaps the E-Bus feeder fuse should be replaced by a relay located near the
source (battery). The same logic used for main power bus can be applied to the
E-Bus. Good workmanship, double insulation, the ability to shut off the power
at its source, and the need for reliable electrical power, are all factors
that suggest that an E-Bus fuse might not be required.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463820#463820
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: E-Bus Fuse - Advisable? |
On Sat, Dec 10, 2016 at 9:57 AM, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> There has been a recent discussion on VansAirforce questioning whether or
> not the E-Bus should be fused.
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=144607
> In that thread, I stated that if two fuses or breakers are connected in
> series, a hard short circuit can blow both simultaneously, even if one of
> them is much larger than the other. Someone questioned whether that is
> actually true.
> What do you think?
> In Z-11, both the E-Bus feeder and the Nav/Com are protected by 7 amp
> fuses. If there is a hard short in the Nav/Com circuit, which of the two
> fuses in series will blow?
> Perhaps the E-Bus feeder fuse should be replaced by a relay located near
> the source (battery). The same logic used for main power bus can be
> applied to the E-Bus. Good workmanship, double insulation, the ability to
> shut off the power at its source, and the need for reliable electrical
> power, are all factors that suggest that an E-Bus fuse might not be
> required.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Hi Joe,
I posted to that thread, as well. My 'must have' stuff (electrically
dependent engine, etc) is on a bus powered from the battery terminal
through a fusible link & hi current switch, with an alternate switched path
off the 'main' bus, which is controlled via the regular master contactor.
As I mentioned on VAF, I never noticed that fuse feeding the endurance bus
in the drawing. I'd have to agree that two 7A fuses in series could result
in either blowing. In that exact setup, it seems more likely that the bus
supply fuse would go 1st, since there are additional loads besides the
radio on the bus feeder fuse.
Charlie
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: E-Bus Fuse - Advisable? |
At 11:09 AM 12/10/2016, you wrote:
>On Sat, Dec 10, 2016 at 9:57 AM, user9253
><<mailto:fransew@gmail.com>fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
><<mailto:fransew@gmail.com>fransew@gmail.com>
>
>There has been a recent discussion on VansAirforce questioning
>whether or not the E-Bus should be fused.
<snip> I've read it . . . and there are several pieces
of spaghetti getting wrapped around unrelated axles.
I'm updating Z-11 and working on the supporting narrative.
Watch this space . . .
In the mean time, please encourage participants
in the VAF forum to bring the discussion to the
AeroElectric-List. Wayyyyy back when, there was a
time that I tried to play electro-whizzy hop-scotch
across a half dozen forums and it became totally
unwieldy.
If a Z-figure is being discussed, please bring the
conversation here where analysis and resolution can
be archived on the AEC-List and appropriate changes
made to Z-figures and supporting documentation.
Thanks!
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Building an RV-10 and working on wiring following Z-12 with 60 amp main
alternator from B & C, and 30A backup alternator also from B&C. Planning on
using the mythical 6-cyl P-Mags, but in the meantime will be setting up
shower of sparks as I have that on hand. A couple of questions regarding
switches. As I look at the endurance bus, I am trying to figure out what is
an appropriate switch to use, I am looking at putting the GTN 650, a G3X
display, flap motor, fuel pump, and landing lights on the endurance bus.
While the 650 can be a large draw, that is only while transmitting, similar
with the fuel pump and flap motor. Lights would only be for a few minutes on
landing. But in total these could be a large draw for short periods of time,
what is an appropriate switch to use for the endurance bus, typical toggle
switches I see are rated at no more that 15 - 20 amps. I really don't want
to use one of the pull switches.
A similar question for an avionics bus, while I know this is not needed to
protect the avionics, I have been advised it is a good idea so that there is
minimal battery drain while starting the plane, after start you flip the
avionics master to turn on the majority of the avionics. Some items like one
display, and the engine sensors would be powered on with the main battery
switch. It seems like this switch could be asked to handle a lot of amps,
with radio, transponder, etc. What are your thoughts on an avionics bus for
this reason, and also what is an appropriate switch to use?
Bill Greenley
Build an RV-10 in SW Michigan
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Z-12 questions |
William,
The EBus should be switched with a relay. The avionics switch is not a good
idea as it introduces a single point of failure. I believe that you might
be misunderstanding the EBus concept. It is designed to power only
essential items such as in an electric ac one efis one com and maybe the
pmags. The idea is that you can easily reduce the electrical load such that
the available fuel is the only determining factor as to when you will need
to land. Switching the master off reduces the load to the point that your
standby alternator can power the remaining load till you arrive at your
destination. You could then switch the master back on and hve your entire
panel for the landing. Fuel pump and flaps are not required for cruise
flight although they do draw any current when switched off, so they are not
against the EBus concept. Hope this helps. I have an RV7 with Z12-8 from
day one and it works perfectly as designed. My standby alternator is the
B%C SD8.
On Sat, Dec 10, 2016 at 9:09 PM, William Greenley <wgreenley@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Building an RV-10 and working on wiring following Z-12 with 60 amp main
> alternator from B & C, and 30A backup alternator also from B&C. Planning
on
> using the mythical 6-cyl P-Mags, but in the meantime will be setting up
> shower of sparks as I have that on hand. A couple of questions regarding
> switches. As I look at the endurance bus, I am trying to figure out what
is
> an appropriate switch to use, I am looking at putting the GTN 650, a G3X
> display, flap motor, fuel pump, and landing lights on the endurance bus.
> While the 650 can be a large draw, that is only while transmitting, simil
ar
> with the fuel pump and flap motor. Lights would only be for a few minutes
> on landing. But in total these could be a large draw for short periods of
> time, what is an appropriate switch to use for the endurance bus, typical
> toggle switches I see are rated at no more that 15 =93 20 amps. I r
eally
> don=99t want to use one of the pull switches.
>
>
> A similar question for an avionics bus, while I know this is not needed t
o
> protect the avionics, I have been advised it is a good idea so that there
> is minimal battery drain while starting the plane, after start you flip t
he
> avionics master to turn on the majority of the avionics. Some items like
> one display, and the engine sensors would be powered on with the main
> battery switch. It seems like this switch could be asked to handle a lot
of
> amps, with radio, transponder, etc. What are your thoughts on an avionics
> bus for this reason, and also what is an appropriate switch to use?
>
> Bill Greenley
>
> Build an RV-10 in SW Michigan
>
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