Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:44 AM - Re: USB (rampil)
2. 04:36 AM - USB (BobbyPaulk@comcast.net)
3. 05:53 AM - Re: Re: USB (Charlie England)
4. 06:43 AM - Re: USB ()
5. 08:26 AM - Re: Securing Split PVC Conduit (ashleysc@broadstripe.net)
6. 09:19 AM - Re: Re: USB (Eric Page)
7. 12:00 PM - Re: Re: USB (Jared Yates)
8. 12:24 PM - Re: Re: USB (Daniel Hooper)
9. 01:10 PM - Re: Re: USB (Dj Merrill)
10. 01:48 PM - Re: Re: USB (Daniel Hooper)
11. 02:48 PM - Re: Re: USB (Dj Merrill)
12. 03:10 PM - Re: Re: USB (Dj Merrill)
13. 03:12 PM - Re: Re: USB (Daniel Hooper)
14. 03:21 PM - Re: Re: USB (Daniel Hooper)
15. 04:29 PM - Re: Re: USB (Dj Merrill)
16. 05:00 PM - Re: Re: USB (Daniel Hooper)
17. 05:36 PM - Re: Re: USB (Jared Yates)
18. 06:33 PM - Re: Audio Isolation Amplifier Boards (don van santen)
19. 06:43 PM - Re: Audio Isolation Amplifier Boards (don van santen)
20. 11:12 PM - Re: Re: USB (Eric Page)
Message 1
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At least in the Apple world, the resistor network which informs the
device to be charged of the charger's capability and compatibility is
actually in the charging cord. If I remember the tech specs, the amperage
capacity is detected by voltage drop across the resistor.
Bottom Line: If you want to charge an iPad or iPhone use a "genuine" Lightning
cord.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464480#464480
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Thank you Bob and Eric for the explanations.
Great information for an old geezer.
bobby
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On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 5:43 AM, rampil <ira.rampil@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> At least in the Apple world, the resistor network which informs the
> device to be charged of the charger's capability and compatibility is
> actually in the charging cord. If I remember the tech specs, the amperage
> capacity is detected by voltage drop across the resistor.
> Bottom Line: If you want to charge an iPad or iPhone use a "genuine"
> Lightning cord.
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
> Or, simply stay away from that world....
;-)
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Earlier today, someone said that to charge an Apple device, you had to
use an Apple lightning coord. That is partially true, in that a cord
sourced from Apple WILL work, but there are alternatives - and some are
much better than Apple's own lightning cords. The "trick" is to
purchase only "Apple MFi Certified" lightning cords.
My personal choice for the supplier is Anker - sold through Amazon. They
make MFi certified cords (complete with the unique authorization chip
like Apple uses) that work beautifully with all Apple devices, are
available in multiple lengths (1,3, 6, and 10 feet) and in several
colors (red, white, blue, gold, space gray), all for very reasonable
prices (much lower than Apple's own flimsy cables). I've never seen the
"unapproved charging cable" notice when using an Anker cable.
My favorite is the double-braided nylon-sheathed PowerLine+ cables. I
use a "space gray" 6-ft version to charge my iPad Mini in flight, so
that the cable 'disappears' when laid across my gray glareshield cover.
I like the longer cable for this purpose, because my charging port
(cigar lighter with an Anker 2-port USB adapter) is on the right side,
but mounting the iPad there would interfere with entry/egress, so I have
to mount it on the opposite side of the airplane.
These double-braided nylon sheathed cables are very durable, far more
flexible than standard cables, and they don't seem to tangle as much.
They even come with a magnet-closed "cover" to keep the cord neat when
not in use. I know it probably seems crazy to be this enthusiastic
about such a trivial product, but after spending $20 on "genuine Apple"
lightning cables, only to have the ends rip off, or the insulation
covers develop holes that lead to kinks and shorts, finding a
much-less-expensive alternative that not only works well, but is
virtually indestructible just makes my day. I've given many of these
cables as "stocking stuffer" gifts to my kids and family, and everyone
just loves them.
For those of you who use non-Apple devices, Anker also makes standard
Micro USB and USB-C cables (with all the same options) for those devices
(most Android phones and tablets). They also make a pretty nice 2-port
USB adapter for you cigar lighter that will charge two 2.1A devices
simultaneously (2 iPads, or 1 iPad and 1 iPhone, as I use).
And, just for the record, I don't work for, or have any interest in
Anker other than as a very satisfied customer.
Jim Parker
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Subject: | Re: Securing Split PVC Conduit |
Hi Neal and Art;
Google "wire ties with mounting holes."
Morris Products makes several types.
Cheers! Stu.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neal George" <neal.george@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 9:11:53 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Securing Split PVC Conduit
A dab of RTV?
Neal George
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 26, 2016, at 10:05 PM, Art Zemon < art@zemon.name > wrote:
Folks,
I am using some split PVC conduit in my plane and two of the runs are pretty close
to vertical, about 4 feet long. Sitting in my garage, with the wires not yet
secured at the bottom, the conduit keeps trying to slide downward in the 2
inch square channels through which it runs. I think that I ought to secure it
somehow and wonder if you have any ideas that will keep it in place.
Maybe I can wrap a thin cable tie around it and get it to slip into a groove?
Or maybe wrap it with silicone self-sealing tape and the put an AN742 clamp around
it?
Thanks,
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I?
And if not now, when?" Hillel
Message 6
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There's no way a cord could know the capability of a plug adapter unless the adapter
signals it in some way. The device in Apple's charging cords (and, as Jim
pointed out, in MiFi Certified cords) is an integrated circuit used for authentication.
It still looks for the signaling voltages on D+ and D-, which current
Apple plug adapters provide. The plug adapters are still using simple resistor
dividers to generate the 2.75V signals.
Eric
> On Dec 30, 2016, at 3:43 AM, rampil <ira.rampil@gmail.com> wrote:
> At least in the Apple world, the resistor network which informs the device to
be charged of the charger's capability and compatibility is actually in the charging
cord. If I remember the tech specs, the amperage capacity is detected
by voltage drop across the resistor. Bottom Line: If you want to charge an
iPad or iPhone use a "genuine" Lightning cord.
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
Message 7
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Is this contrary to Joe's advice about sensing voltage across the two USB
data pins, or in addition to it?
On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 6:43 AM, rampil <ira.rampil@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> At least in the Apple world, the resistor network which informs the
> device to be charged of the charger's capability and compatibility is
> actually in the charging cord. If I remember the tech specs, the amperage
> capacity is detected by voltage drop across the resistor.
> Bottom Line: If you want to charge an iPad or iPhone use a "genuine"
> Lightning cord.
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464480#464480
>
>
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This is not correct. The charging resistor network is in the charger.
However if you use a super-cheap charging cord, the wire gauge may not
be large enough.
When the iPhone (or whatever) detects the charger voltage drop below a
certain voltage (maybe 4.8V?) it will back off until the voltage comes
back up.
So based on the resistance of the cable, the device may not be able to
charge as quickly as it otherwise would.
Both pieces have to be in place for an optimal charge time.
> On Dec 30, 2016, at 5:43 AM, rampil <ira.rampil@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> At least in the Apple world, the resistor network which informs the
> device to be charged of the charger's capability and compatibility is
> actually in the charging cord
Message 9
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> On Dec 30, 2016, at 3:23 PM, Daniel Hooper <enginerdy@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> This is not correct. The charging resistor network is in the charger.
>
This is not correct. The charging resistor network is in the cord, not the charger.
You can take a charger that provides a USB powered port, plug a cord without the
resistor network into it, and the Apple device will not charge. Use the same
charger with a cord that does have the resistor network, and it will charge
fine.
The amp rating of the charger does have an effect on the rate of charge, but the
resistor network is not in the charger, it is in the cord.
-Dj
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Maybe this is what you=99re talking about?
http://appleinsider.com/articles/12/09/25/apples_lightning_port_dynamicall
y_assigns_pins_to_allow_for_reversible_use
<http://appleinsider.com/articles/12/09/25/apples_lightning_port_dynamical
ly_assigns_pins_to_allow_for_reversible_use>
It=99s a bad idea to use a non-MFI Lightning cable in any case,
for this reason.
But the D+/D- line bias network that tells the phone how fast it is
allowed to charge is DEFINITELY located inside the charger.
There are a decent number of standards between the various Apple
configurations, newer USB standards, and a Chinese standard, so having
an MFI cable for you phone and a Samsung charger is no guarantee of
success.
There are chips (ICs) made for chargers out there that can (somehow)
sense which kind of device is attached and adjust its resistor network
to allow the maximum charging for any type, but it is difficult to tell
whether this chip was designed into the charger.
> On Dec 30, 2016, at 3:09 PM, Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>> On Dec 30, 2016, at 3:23 PM, Daniel Hooper <enginerdy@gmail.com>
wrote:
>>
>> This is not correct. The charging resistor network is in the charger.
>>
>
> This is not correct. The charging resistor network is in the cord,
not the charger.
>
> You can take a charger that provides a USB powered port, plug a cord
without the resistor network into it, and the Apple device will not
charge. Use the same charger with a cord that does have the resistor
network, and it will charge fine.
>
> The amp rating of the charger does have an effect on the rate of
charge, but the resistor network is not in the charger, it is in the
cord.
>
> -Dj
>
>
>
>
>
>
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On 12/30/2016 4:47 PM, Daniel Hooper wrote:
> But the D+/D- line bias network that tells the phone how fast it is
> allowed to charge is DEFINITELY located inside the charger.
If you buy a cable that is supposed to plug into a USB port, the
resistor network is most definitely inside the cable, if for no other
reason than your computer USB port (ie, the charger aka power source) is
not customized for Apple devices. This is true for both the older style
plugs (iphone 4s and earlier for example) and the new lightning
connector for the later devices. In addition, the newer lightning
connector has other circuitry built into it like the MFi authorization chip.
You might be able to buy a charger that has the resistive network built
into it, but from what I've seen it is common to put this inside the
cable such that the cable can then be used with any charger that offers
a USB port.
Here is an example of a lightning cable that has it built in:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Lightning-Certified-Charger/dp/B013JMBAMC/
Here is an example of an older iPhone 4s cable that has it built in:
https://www.amazon.com/iPhone-JETech-3-Pack-Certified-Charging/dp/B015V7XB5C/
I haven't seen a charger that has the resistive network built into it,
and didn't find one from a quick search on Amazon. Can you offer a link
that has this in the charger itself, and not the cable?
Thanks,
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
Message 12
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To make it even more confusing, there are differences in USB 1, 2, and
DCP (Dedicated Charging Port) which also have different resistor
networks across D+ and D-. However, Apple, in its infinite wisdom
(sarcasm) didn't use the standards, thus causing one to have to buy
special USB cables to be recognized as one that would actually charge
the device, otherwise you get "Charging is not supported with this
accessory" or similar message on the iPhone.
That special resistor network built into the cables what we are
referring to, if that helps to clarify things.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
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If you buy genuine Apple cables they do not have this built in =94
that is a special cable that potentially tells the iPhone that it can
draw more current than the charger may be capable of.
I suspect those items counterfeit MFI for that reason =94 highly
nonstandard. It=99s possible that they have loosened the standards
for accessory products, but in my experience they keep the leash pretty
taut.
The truth is that the resistor network is in EVERY charger that is
intended for Apple devices, and some configuration or other (USB
charging standard or Chinese charging standard) is present in nearly
every other one. Some chargers, as I mentioned before, have a chip that
can switch between the standards automatically.
Here is the evidence in Ken Sherriff=99s Apple charger teardown:
http://www.righto.com/2012/05/apple-iphone-charger-teardown-quality.html
<http://www.righto.com/2012/05/apple-iphone-charger-teardown-quality.html>
In the schematic he drew from examination,
http://static.righto.com/files/charger-schematic.pdf
<http://static.righto.com/files/charger-schematic.pdf>
you can see the ID network there on page 2 of the schematic, R5, R6, R7,
and R9.
There are also many reference designs for USB chargers that include
these or some similar configuration of resistors.
> On Dec 30, 2016, at 4:47 PM, Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net> wrote:
>
>
> On 12/30/2016 4:47 PM, Daniel Hooper wrote:
>> But the D+/D- line bias network that tells the phone how fast it is
>> allowed to charge is DEFINITELY located inside the charger.
>
>
> If you buy a cable that is supposed to plug into a USB port, the
resistor network is most definitely inside the cable, if for no other
reason than your computer USB port (ie, the charger aka power source) is
not customized for Apple devices. This is true for both the older style
plugs (iphone 4s and earlier for example) and the new lightning
connector for the later devices. In addition, the newer lightning
connector has other circuitry built into it like the MFi authorization
chip.
>
> You might be able to buy a charger that has the resistive network
built into it, but from what I've seen it is common to put this inside
the cable such that the cable can then be used with any charger that
offers a USB port.
>
> Here is an example of a lightning cable that has it built in:
>
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Lightning-Certified-Charger/dp/B013
JMBAMC/
>
> Here is an example of an older iPhone 4s cable that has it built in:
>
https://www.amazon.com/iPhone-JETech-3-Pack-Certified-Charging/dp/B015V7XB
5C/
>
> I haven't seen a charger that has the resistive network built into it,
and didn't find one from a quick search on Amazon. Can you offer a link
that has this in the charger itself, and not the cable?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87
> Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
> Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
>
>
>
>
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Read what this guy has to say about it. I haven=99t used his
products, so I can=99t vouch for them, but I heard him give a talk
at Oshkosh about USB charging and it was right on.
These products you have here are what he calls a =9Ccheater
cable=9D.
He even has an =9Cintelligent charger=9D module that (I
believe) has the smart resistor switching IC in it.
http://www.commitlift.com/usbchargers.html
<http://www.commitlift.com/usbchargers.html>
Sidenote: =9CAdaptive Fast Charging=9D that he talks about
is a whole different mess.
> On Dec 30, 2016, at 4:47 PM, Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net> wrote:
>
>
> On 12/30/2016 4:47 PM, Daniel Hooper wrote:
>> But the D+/D- line bias network that tells the phone how fast it is
>> allowed to charge is DEFINITELY located inside the charger.
>
>
> If you buy a cable that is supposed to plug into a USB port, the
resistor network is most definitely inside the cable, if for no other
reason than your computer USB port (ie, the charger aka power source) is
not customized for Apple devices. This is true for both the older style
plugs (iphone 4s and earlier for example) and the new lightning
connector for the later devices. In addition, the newer lightning
connector has other circuitry built into it like the MFi authorization
chip.
>
> You might be able to buy a charger that has the resistive network
built into it, but from what I've seen it is common to put this inside
the cable such that the cable can then be used with any charger that
offers a USB port.
>
> Here is an example of a lightning cable that has it built in:
>
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Lightning-Certified-Charger/dp/B013
JMBAMC/
>
> Here is an example of an older iPhone 4s cable that has it built in:
>
https://www.amazon.com/iPhone-JETech-3-Pack-Certified-Charging/dp/B015V7XB
5C/
>
> I haven't seen a charger that has the resistive network built into it,
and didn't find one from a quick search on Amazon. Can you offer a link
that has this in the charger itself, and not the cable?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87
> Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
> Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
>
>
>
>
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On 12/30/2016 6:11 PM, Daniel Hooper wrote:
> If you buy genuine Apple cables they do not have this built in
My curiosity was piqued so I conducted a couple of experiments.
I took a genuine Apple cable that works with my Apple charger for an
iPhone 4s, and plugged it into a Windows 7 PC USB port. It seems to
work fine, and charges the iPhone 4s without displaying any error
messages on the screen.
I repeated the same test with an Apple lightning cable and Iphone SE
with the same results.
If there wasn't anything built into the cable, how did this work
properly? Let's find out.
This video gives a good explanation of how the Apple protocol works with
regards to the resistive network used for the iPhone 4s:
https://learn.adafruit.com/minty-boost/icharging?embeds=allow
We know that the different USB ports (USB 1, 2, 3, etc) offer different
power ratings (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB). The power rating is
identified by using different resistances related to the two data pins,
(D+ and D-).
It would appear that the iPhone recognizes the standard USB
identification resistances, and can therefore use a standard USB port to
charge. In addition, Apple has another set of proprietary resistances
that identify power ratings that are different than the USB standard,
and they use these in their chargers.
So, the answer to my question above is that it worked because in all of
my test cases there were resistors across the data lines, both in the
USB ports and the Apple charger.
I stand corrected, and the only explanation is that the resistive
network indeed exists within the charger, not the cable. The "cheater
cables" you refer to were for using non-Apple chargers, whether wall
chargers or the "cigarette lighter" variety that had no resistance
across the data lines, and the resistors were added in the cable so the
iPhone would work. I actually built one of these cables years ago, and
made the incorrect conclusion that the resistive network identifier was
in all the cables.
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
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Thank you for taking the time to understand what is going on here.
It=99s fairly complicated and the non-standard hardware that
people use to get around all sorts of issues only makes it worse.
For what it=99s worth, Apple has been using the line bias
resistors since before there was a USB charging standard.
There=99s one last point that you=99ve got a little wonky:
> On Dec 30, 2016, at 6:28 PM, Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net> wrote:
>
> It would appear that the iPhone recognizes the standard USB
identification resistances
Your test by plugging your phone into a computer doesn=99t tell
you everything you want to know.
Computer ports have a fully digital power-negotiation protocol that is
built into the original USB 1.0 standard (up to 500mA). Because of this
extra hardware, the computer port does not need charger ID resistors.
There are SOME computers that have a type of dedicated charging port
that can serve even when the computer is turned off, but this is not a
typical setup.
In some cases you may get a charging indication with a simple 5V power
supply (no USB 2.0 communication, no ID resistors). BUT the phone will
only draw around 500mA if it does anything. This is not enough current
to keep the battery charged with the screen on, so the battery will
slowly run down even though it is indicating a charge.
What the ID resistors do is tell the phone =9Chey, go nuts! I=99
ve got 1A (or 2A or 2.1A) for you here!=9D, which will charge the
phone with various levels of speed.
The real struggle is getting the optimum charging rate out of your
charger, no matter what device you have. That=99s the holy grail,
and you have to spend a few bucks to get that functionality in a
charger. (also assuming you aren=99t using a crappy cable)
There=99s no great way to test for this function as a consumer and
there=99s no real standard way for manufacturers to communicate
that functionality effectively, since so many of the cheap ones lie
about what they do.
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This has all been really useful discussion, thank you! To take it from the
theoretical to the actionable (I'm ready to get out my soldering iron), do
we have a specific list of resistors and a schematic to get the appropriate
volts on the data pins if we use something like the 5v power supply that
Joe linked in the beginning of the discussion? It seems that there's no
need for all of us to do the trial and error if we have the same volts
coming in and the same device connected to the plug.
On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 7:59 PM, Daniel Hooper <enginerdy@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thank you for taking the time to understand what is going on here.
>
> It=99s fairly complicated and the non-standard hardware that people
use to
> get around all sorts of issues only makes it worse.
>
> For what it=99s worth, Apple has been using the line bias resistors
since
> before there was a USB charging standard.
>
> There=99s one last point that you=99ve got a little wonky:
>
> On Dec 30, 2016, at 6:28 PM, Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net> wrote:
>
> It would appear that the iPhone recognizes the standard USB identificatio
n
> resistances
>
>
> Your test by plugging your phone into a computer doesn=99t tell you
> everything you want to know.
>
> Computer ports have a fully digital power-negotiation protocol that is
> built into the original USB 1.0 standard (up to 500mA). Because of this
> extra hardware, the computer port does not need charger ID resistors.
>
> There are SOME computers that have a type of dedicated charging port that
> can serve even when the computer is turned off, but this is not a typical
> setup.
>
>
> In some cases you may get a charging indication with a simple 5V power
> supply (no USB 2.0 communication, no ID resistors). BUT the phone will on
ly
> draw around 500mA if it does anything. This is not enough current to keep
> the battery charged with the screen on, so the battery will slowly run do
wn
> even though it is indicating a charge.
>
> What the ID resistors do is tell the phone =9Chey, go nuts! I
=99ve got 1A (or
> 2A or 2.1A) for you here!=9D, which will charge the phone with vari
ous levels
> of speed.
>
> The real struggle is getting the optimum charging rate out of your
> charger, no matter what device you have. That=99s the holy grail, a
nd you
> have to spend a few bucks to get that functionality in a charger. (also
> assuming you aren=99t using a crappy cable)
>
> There=99s no great way to test for this function as a consumer and
there=99s
> no real standard way for manufacturers to communicate that functionality
> effectively, since so many of the cheap ones lie about what they do.
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Audio Isolation Amplifier Boards |
Bob,
Just noticed this. Would this be a good way to connect an xm roady music
receiver to my audio panel?
Background, The roady has no volume control and is intended to plug into a
cassette player using the supplied adapter. I wired it directly to my
Garmin audio panel. It worked fine except The volume was lower than needed.
I am changing to a PS Engineering PDA 360XR audio panel that has music
input volume controls. I am not sure that the new install will have
adequate volume. Any ideas on how to increase the volume?
On Thu, Dec 8, 2016 at 1:00 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> I've had a number of folks express and interst in
> acquiring the boards to the DIY audio Isolation
> amplifier.
>
> Interested purchases can be made from our
> website at:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/cgr42l5
>
> Put your order details in the Commends/Special Rquests
> box at the bottom of the form. The boards are $22 ea
> plus first class postage of $2.25
>
> I'll plan on ordering boards on Monday . . .
>
>
> Assembly instructions for this project are available
> at:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ngoo6hc
>
>
> [image: Emacs!]
>
> Perhaps the better term is 'unpopulated'. It looks
> like this when you're done.
>
> [image: Emacs!]
>
>
> Bob . . . <http://??.htm>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 11/27/16
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Re: Audio Isolation Amplifier Boards |
Bob,
Just noticed this. Would this be a good way to connect an xm roady music
receiver to my audio panel?
Background, The roady has no volume control and is intended to plug into a
cassette player using the supplied adapter. I wired it directly to my
Garmin audio panel. It worked fine except The volume was lower than needed.
I am changing to a PS Engineering PDA 360XR audio panel that has music
input volume controls. I am not sure that the new install will have
adequate volume. Any ideas on how to increase the volume?
On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 6:32 PM, don van santen <donvansanten@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Bob,
> Just noticed this. Would this be a good way to connect an xm roady music
> receiver to my audio panel?
> Background, The roady has no volume control and is intended to plug into a
> cassette player using the supplied adapter. I wired it directly to my
> Garmin audio panel. It worked fine except The volume was lower than needed.
> I am changing to a PS Engineering PDA 360XR audio panel that has music
> input volume controls. I am not sure that the new install will have
> adequate volume. Any ideas on how to increase the volume?
>
> On Thu, Dec 8, 2016 at 1:00 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
>> I've had a number of folks express and interst in
>> acquiring the boards to the DIY audio Isolation
>> amplifier.
>>
>> Interested purchases can be made from our
>> website at:
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/cgr42l5
>>
>> Put your order details in the Commends/Special Rquests
>> box at the bottom of the form. The boards are $22 ea
>> plus first class postage of $2.25
>>
>> I'll plan on ordering boards on Monday . . .
>>
>>
>> Assembly instructions for this project are available
>> at:
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/ngoo6hc
>>
>>
>> [image: Emacs!]
>>
>> Perhaps the better term is 'unpopulated'. It looks
>> like this when you're done.
>>
>> [image: Emacs!]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob . . . <http://??.htm>
>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 11/27/16
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>
>
Message 20
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|
Jared,
This thread was somehow split from the original post on this subject a few d
ays ago. If you look at the original thread, here...
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=16765274
...in the 6th message I described exactly the info you're looking for.
Another option, if you have the ability to lay out and solder a circuit boar
d using surface mount components, is to use an IC like the Texas Instruments
TPS2513A or TPS2514A:
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps2514.pdf
Eric
> On Dec 30, 2016, at 5:34 PM, Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.com> wrote:
> This has all been really useful discussion, thank you! To take it from the
theoretical to the actionable (I'm ready to get out my soldering iron), do w
e have a specific list of resistors and a schematic to get the appropriate v
olts on the data pins if we use something like the 5v power supply that Joe l
inked in the beginning of the discussion? It seems that there's no need for a
ll of us to do the trial and error if we have the same volts coming in and t
he same device connected to the plug.
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