Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:41 AM - Re: Off-On-On Switch (Paul Eckenroth)
2. 10:14 AM - Re: Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview Brightness a (William Hunter)
3. 12:06 PM - Re: Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview Brightness a (Eric Page)
4. 12:28 PM - Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview Brightness a (user9253)
5. 12:36 PM - Re: Off-On-On Switch (user9253)
6. 01:03 PM - Re: fluid level sensor (Ken Ryan)
7. 01:06 PM - Re: Re: Off-On-On Switch (Paul Eckenroth)
8. 01:58 PM - Re: Off-On-On Switch (user9253)
9. 02:24 PM - Re: Re: RockRack Switches (Ryan Brown)
10. 02:36 PM - Dynon Intercom question (Airdog77)
11. 02:37 PM - Re: fluid level sensor (Charlie England)
12. 05:42 PM - Re: Re: Off-On-On Switch (Paul Eckenroth)
13. 08:03 PM - Re: Off-On-On Switch (user9253)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Off-On-On Switch |
Thanks everyone for the feedback. It seems like all the switches mentioned
are progressive. Am I interpreting things correctly in that power feed to
the wigwag module will of course cause the lights to wigwag. If power is
applied directly to the lights without removing the power from the wigwag
module then the lights go on steady with no harm done to the wigwag module.
I have the schematic from Aeroelectric for the wigwag/ landing using one
switch 2-10. Can someone explain the need for the bridge rectifier. Also
is there a source somewhere for the individual switch schematics from
Carling. It seems to me that with the information given in the data sheets
you don't really know what you are getting.
Paul
On Mon, Feb 6, 2017 at 8:37 AM, Chuck - Vanc <ChuckGauthier@comcast.net>
wrote:
> This is a configuration that I used. It minimizes the panel space
> requirements.
>
>
> Chuck Gauthier
>
>
> Time: 02:56:48 PM PST US
>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Off-On-On Switch
>
> From: "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com>
>
>
> Possibly B & C part number S700-2-11
>
> http://www.bandc.aero/toggleswitch-doublepole.aspx
>
> or
>
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/
> STG2EE-53/?qs=lk%252bUld%252bvit6bNyz8ck2TZQ%3d%3d
>
> or
>
> http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/copal-electronics-
> inc/ET210PA12-Z/563-1873-ND/5086777
>
> ET210PA12Z Datasheet:
>
> http://www.nidec-copal-electronics.com/e/catalog/switch/et.pdf
>
> ET210PA12Z __ ON ON OFF
>
> ON Connecting terminals: 23 , 56
>
> ON Connecting terminals: 56
>
> OFF Connecting terminals: None
>
>
> You could call B & C and get their advice.
>
>
> --------
>
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465810#465810
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview |
Brightness a
I know that everyone has been waiting in major suspense for this...
(SPOILER ALERT)
I just got my response from Dynon...the ELP101x PWM dimmer will NOT work for
the Skyview remote dimmer function through pin 25. !!!DANG!!!
Pin 25 needs to see a regular, old, boring 0 to 14 VDC signal.
Should I use a rheostat or potentiometer for this signal?
For either device, I need to tap off of an always hot, protected 14 VDC
wire.
I am considering tapping off of the wire that provides the power feed to the
Dynon because if I used another source (such as a landing light feed wire)
and should that devices CB pop then I do not have the dimmer control of the
Dynon and if the pin 25 sees 0 VDC then it will go to minimum brightness.
That could be bad...
Is tapping off of the Dynon power feed what you all would recommend?
Naturally there is a load associated with the variable resistance of the
rheostat/potentiometer however I am not able to calculate that load. The
Dynon CB is only 5 AMPS.
I do not think it necessary to run a completely different CB for this dimmer
circuit...or do I?!?!?
If I install a potentiometer, I think I will need to run that feed wire to
lug #3 of a potentiometer and then connect lug #1 to ground. The center lug
(wiper) will go to pin 25. Is the electrical path of my thinking correct?
THANKS AGAIN!!!
..
Cheers!!!
Bill Hunter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of user9253
Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 8:09 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon
Skyview Brightness a
It seems that the EPL1012 and the SkyView work the same. They both pulse
the negative supply. Connecting the EPL1012 directly to the SkyView DIM
INPUT (Pin 25) is unlikely to work. But it might be possible to connect
resistors and a capacitor between the output of the EPL1012 and pin 25 of
the SkyView to smooth out the pulses.
It would be a whole lot easier to use a potentiometer instead of the
EPL1012 . Maybe one can be found to fit the hole that you drilled. What
size hole is it?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465825#465825
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview |
Brightness a
Bill,
Pin 25 will almost certainly be an input to either an op-amp buffer or an an
alog-to-digital converter. This means there will be virtually no current fl
ow into Pin 25; it merely "senses" the voltage present. This being the case
, you can use any common potentiometer of 10k ohm or greater to produce the 0
-14V signal, and current through the pot would be 1.4 milliamps (0.0014 amps
) maximum. The exact value of the pot makes no difference; its mechanical d
imensions will be most important to you.
Connect one end of the pot to 14V (the Dynon's supply voltage is fine), the o
pposite end to ground, and the middle (wiper) to Pin 25. If you find that t
he pot works backwards, just swap the 14V and ground connections on the pot.
The mechanical drawing of the ELP1012 dimmer...
http://www.pcarv.com/images/Dimmer/EPL1012%20Mechanical%20Drawing.jpg
...seems to indicate two possible mounting hole sizes: 0.265" or 0.375". Wh
at size hole do you have in your panel? If you'll reply with that, we can h
elp you find a potentiometer that will work, and fit your hole.
Eric
> On Feb 7, 2017, at 10:11 AM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com> w
rote:
>
l@gmail.com>
>
> I know that everyone has been waiting in major suspense for this...
>
> (SPOILER ALERT)
>
> I just got my response from Dynon...the ELP101x PWM dimmer will NOT work f
or
> the Skyview remote dimmer function through pin 25. !!!DANG!!!
>
> Pin 25 needs to see a regular, old, boring 0 to 14 VDC signal.
>
> Should I use a rheostat or potentiometer for this signal?
>
> For either device, I need to tap off of an always hot, protected 14 VDC
> wire.
>
> I am considering tapping off of the wire that provides the power feed to t
he
> Dynon because if I used another source (such as a landing light feed wire)
> and should that devices CB pop then I do not have the dimmer control of th
e
> Dynon and if the pin 25 sees 0 VDC then it will go to minimum brightness.
> That could be bad...
>
> Is tapping off of the Dynon power feed what you all would recommend?
> Naturally there is a load associated with the variable resistance of the
> rheostat/potentiometer however I am not able to calculate that load. The
> Dynon CB is only 5 AMPS.
>
> I do not think it necessary to run a completely different CB for this dimm
er
> circuit...or do I?!?!?
>
> If I install a potentiometer, I think I will need to run that feed wire to
> lug #3 of a potentiometer and then connect lug #1 to ground. The center l
ug
> (wiper) will go to pin 25. Is the electrical path of my thinking correct?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!!!
> ..
>
> Cheers!!!
>
> Bill Hunter
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of user925
3
> Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 8:09 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon
> Skyview Brightness a
>
>
> It seems that the EPL1012 and the SkyView work the same. They both pulse
> the negative supply. Connecting the EPL1012 directly to the SkyView DIM
> INPUT (Pin 25) is unlikely to work. But it might be possible to connect
> resistors and a capacitor between the output of the EPL1012 and pin 25 of
> the SkyView to smooth out the pulses.
> It would be a whole lot easier to use a potentiometer instead of the
> EPL1012 . Maybe one can be found to fit the hole that you drilled. What
> size hole is it?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465825#465825
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview |
Brightness a
Bill, your reasoning is correct. But do NOT use a rheostat because it has low
resistance and will draw too much current. Use a 5K or 10K POT or whatever Dynon
recommends. The pot will only draw a couple of milliamps. You could get
12 volts from SV-EMS-220 pin 15 or any convenient place. Pin 15 probably has
internal over-current protection. The SkyView fuse can be increased in size from
5 to 7.5 amps, not because of the pot, but because a 5 amp fuse can blow under
certain conditions. A friend of mine was on a long cross country when his
SkyView display went dark because the 5 amp fuse blew. He replaced the fuse
in flight, and the replacement fuse also blew. Luckily it was a daytime VFR
flight. The reason the fuse blew was that, prior to the flight, he had been running
the SkyView from its backup battery and ran it down. While on the cross
country flight, the SkyView was drawing maximum current to both operate the
EFIS and to charge the backup battery. He called Dynon because he thought the
SkyView was defective. They recommended that he power the SkyView through a
7.5 amp fuse. He did and no more problems. If your plane has circuit breakers,
not fuses, a 5 amp breaker will probably be adequate because circuit breakers
are slower to trip than fuses.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465872#465872
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| Subject: | Re: Off-On-On Switch |
Paul,
You asked about the bridge rectifier. Can you post the schematic or a link to
it?
For Carling schematics, try a Google search for "carling switch pinout".
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465873#465873
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| Subject: | Re: fluid level sensor |
Thanks for the responses. I'll probably use the Gems but it's good to know
there are other options.
On Mon, Feb 6, 2017 at 3:48 PM, <jim@poogiebearranch.com> wrote:
>
> One other potential approach for your consideration... Belite
> Electronics makes lightweight, low-cost instrumentation for ultralight
> and experimental aircraft. They have developed a line of fuel sensors
> and gauges that are pretty cool. You can go to
> http://www.beliteaircraft.com, then go to their "electronics" page to
> see all the gauges.
>
> They sell capacitance fuel probes that are much lighter and less
> expensive than the "commercial" ones, and will custom make them to your
> length if desired. And they make several different single- and dual-tank
> gauges (including the "Radiant" gauges that were featured in Kitplanes
> and AvWeb feature articles).
>
> But the one I really like is the "Low Profile Fuel Probe," which is a
> MEMS-based "pressure-reading" transducer that effectively measures the
> mass of the fuel in the tank. It can be purchased with a "fuel computer"
> that calibrates and translates the fuel probe's output into 0.0 volts
> (empty) to 5.0 volts (full), with intermediate calibration points at
> 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 levels. It can also be purchased without the fuel
> computer, for use with the "Radiant" fuel gauges that already have the
> calibration/translation feature built in.
>
> I plan to use the low-profile fuel probe (without computer - $100) and
> the Radiant dual-tank gauge ($300) as the primary fuel level indicator
> for the Bearhawk Patrol I'm building. I'll have sight glass tubes as a
> backup, but they are harder to see from the pilot's seat. The two probes
> and the gauge together will add only a few ounces to the empty weight -
> probably about as much as the wiring from panel to wing tanks!
>
> But that solution would probably be major overkill for your intended
> purpose of monitoring the fuel level in the header tank. For that, I
> would use the Low Profile Fuel Probe (with fuel computer - $200) and the
> single-display Fuel Gauge ($80).
>
> Some of you are probably be creative (and skilled) enough to forgo the
> fuel computer or even the gauge, creating your own circuit to measure
> the sensor output and decide when to turn on a "warning light" when the
> level drops below your desired level. But me =93 I'm too much of a
> "newb" to even attempt such a thing, so I'll stick to a "professionally
> designed" system.
>
> Jim Parker
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Off-On-On Switch |
Joe
Here is a link to the Aeroelectric article. The schematic is page 3,
single source, single switch.
Paul
On Tue, Feb 7, 2017 at 3:34 PM, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Paul,
> You asked about the bridge rectifier. Can you post the schematic or a
> link to it?
> For Carling schematics, try a Google search for "carling switch pinout".
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465873#465873
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Off-On-On Switch |
The link is missing.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465876#465876
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| Subject: | Re: RockRack Switches |
Aren't these just carling contura switches with fancy labels?
http://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/V-Series-IV-V-VII_datasheet.pdf
On Sun, Feb 5, 2017 at 4:48 PM donjohnston <don@velocity-xl.com> wrote:
> don@velocity-xl.com>
>
> Is this what you're looking for?
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/RockRack-connections.pdf
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465813#465813
>
>
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| Subject: | Dynon Intercom question |
Hi folks,
I was dong some research when I ran across a Dynon forum post with one of the Dynon
guys saying that they no longer recommend using the SV-INTERCOM-2S intercom
with a switch (as it was specifically designed to do) for switching between
two different com radios.
Since I bought one of these units over a year ago, I was wondering if anyone has
installed one and used it successfully for switching between two com radios?
Apparently the issue is that there is no interlock, so there's crosstalk going
on between the com channels.
If there's a lack of any actionable intel, I was hoping Bob or one of you other
electrically smart guys might have an idea for a work around.
I spoke with Dynon and they will work with me to get a refund, but since I've already
integrated it into my panel plans and have reserved a spot specifically
for its dimensions (I'm in a Long-EZ and space is TIGHT), I would like to see
if I could make this work before going a different route. Thanks!
Regards,
Wade
--------
Airdog
Wade Parton
Building Long-EZ 916WP
www.longezpush.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465879#465879
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| Subject: | Re: fluid level sensor |
Don't forget to check ebay before purchasing; there are often much
better deals there on the Gems type sensors.
Charlie
On 2/7/2017 3:00 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:
> Thanks for the responses. I'll probably use the Gems but it's good to
> know there are other options.
>
> On Mon, Feb 6, 2017 at 3:48 PM, <jim@poogiebearranch.com
> <mailto:jim@poogiebearranch.com>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:jim@poogiebearranch.com>>
>
> One other potential approach for your consideration... Belite
> Electronics makes lightweight, low-cost instrumentation for ultralight
> and experimental aircraft. They have developed a line of fuel sensors
> and gauges that are pretty cool. You can go to
> http://www.beliteaircraft.com, then go to their "electronics" page to
> see all the gauges.
>
> They sell capacitance fuel probes that are much lighter and less
> expensive than the "commercial" ones, and will custom make them to
> your
> length if desired. And they make several different single- and
> dual-tank
> gauges (including the "Radiant" gauges that were featured in Kitplanes
> and AvWeb feature articles).
>
> But the one I really like is the "Low Profile Fuel Probe," which is a
> MEMS-based "pressure-reading" transducer that effectively measures the
> mass of the fuel in the tank. It can be purchased with a "fuel
> computer"
> that calibrates and translates the fuel probe's output into 0.0 volts
> (empty) to 5.0 volts (full), with intermediate calibration points at
> 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 levels. It can also be purchased without the fuel
> computer, for use with the "Radiant" fuel gauges that already have the
> calibration/translation feature built in.
>
> I plan to use the low-profile fuel probe (without computer - $100) and
> the Radiant dual-tank gauge ($300) as the primary fuel level indicator
> for the Bearhawk Patrol I'm building. I'll have sight glass tubes as a
> backup, but they are harder to see from the pilot's seat. The two
> probes
> and the gauge together will add only a few ounces to the empty
> weight -
> probably about as much as the wiring from panel to wing tanks!
>
> But that solution would probably be major overkill for your intended
> purpose of monitoring the fuel level in the header tank. For that, I
> would use the Low Profile Fuel Probe (with fuel computer - $200)
> and the
> single-display Fuel Gauge ($80).
>
> Some of you are probably be creative (and skilled) enough to forgo the
> fuel computer or even the gauge, creating your own circuit to measure
> the sensor output and decide when to turn on a "warning light"
> when the
> level drops below your desired level. But me I'm too much of a
> "newb" to even attempt such a thing, so I'll stick to a
> "professionally
> designed" system.
>
> Jim Parker
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Off-On-On Switch |
Let me try that again. Need to make the slight extra effort to add the
link.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf
Paul
On Tue, Feb 7, 2017 at 4:04 PM, Paul Eckenroth <N509RV@eckenroth.com> wrote:
> Joe
>
> Here is a link to the Aeroelectric article. The schematic is page 3,
> single source, single switch.
>
> Paul
>
> On Tue, Feb 7, 2017 at 3:34 PM, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Paul,
>> You asked about the bridge rectifier. Can you post the schematic or a
>> link to it?
>> For Carling schematics, try a Google search for "carling switch pinout".
>>
>> --------
>> Joe Gores
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465873#465873
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Off-On-On Switch |
OK, I looked at the schematic. The reason for the bridge diode is to isolate flasher
terminals 2 and 3. Without the diodes, terminals 2 and 3 would be connected
together and the lights would never wig-wag. They would both be on at the
same time.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465884#465884
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