Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:34 AM - DuaL Fuel Pump Question (Wladimir Kummer)
2. 11:06 AM - Re: Re: mystery coax signal splitter (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 12:01 PM - Coaxial Cable (William Hunter)
4. 12:22 PM - Re: Reedswitch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 01:36 PM - Re: Reedswitch (Bernie Willis)
6. 01:42 PM - Re: Reedswitch (Alec Myers)
7. 02:22 PM - Re: Reedswitch (Charlie England)
8. 02:32 PM - Re: Coaxial Cable (Charlie England)
9. 03:10 PM - Re: Reedswitch (Alec Myers)
10. 03:37 PM - Re: Reedswitch (Charlie England)
11. 03:50 PM - headset matching to radio (Dana)
12. 04:57 PM - Re: headset matching to radio (Eric Page)
13. 05:21 PM - Re: headset matching to radio (Dana)
14. 05:47 PM - Re: headset matching to radio (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 05:48 PM - Re: Coaxial Cable (William Hunter)
16. 06:13 PM - Re: headset matching to radio (Dana)
17. 07:01 PM - Re: Re: headset matching to radio (Charlie England)
18. 09:08 PM - Re: Coaxial Cable (Charlie England)
Message 1
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| Subject: | DuaL Fuel Pump Question |
Hi all,
Im building a Europa XS Motorglider which will be powered by a Cont 0200. The lower
fuse is almost ready to be mated to its upper counterpart. However Im determined
to do as much work as possible before I close it and this includes most
electric installation.
Since my engine does not have a mechanical fuel pump Ill be using a dual electric
fuel pump set up. The pumps are going to be connected hydraulically in series
but Im unsure about the better electric installation. I therefore ask for help.
More info. The pumps are located at mid fuse, unsure about the battery but probably
will have one near the pumps to help with the balance. Pumps are Facet 40106
which are rated @ 1.7amp each.
Ideas?
Wlad
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: mystery coax signal splitter |
>Well, double Duhh...If I'd actually looked at that, I'd have known
>better to even send the message. I pulled an ancient LORAN out of
>the plane after I purchased it about 15 years ago. I wonder if this
>could be residue from that installation. Obviously, it's not a
>VOR/GS splitter, so it's very unlikely to be of any use to me.
Aha! Yes. Those components were physically a
bit 'horsy' for UHF/VHF circuity . . . but
I'm at bit puzzled at how it might function
as an add-on to a legacy aircraft. It couldn't
be used to receive on a vhf comm antenna due
to the need to also transmit throught the same
path. A VOR antenna with no frequency dependent
features (like matching sections or baluns)
MIGHT offer some performance at 100KHz LORAN
levels . . . it's a puzzlement.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Hi All,
I am replacing the coaxial cables for my transponder, ADS-B, Nav, and Comm
antennas.
What kind of coaxial cable, set of crimp tools, and ends do you all
recommend?
..
THANKS!!!
Bill Hunter
Message 4
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At 09:52 PM 2/21/2017, you wrote:
>
>The reed switch is sensitive to magnetic fields. The five turns
>("5T" on the diagram) of wire around the switch act as an inductor,
>creating a magnetic field that will close the switch when the pitot
>heater is drawing current. This will turn on the LED indicator
>without having to directly interrupt the feed to the heater or its
>control relay.
Correct. See http://tinyurl.com/htf4elj
Bob . . .
Message 5
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That=99s a cleaver idea. I put an analog ammeter in the circuit
for the same reason but not as sophisticated.
Bernie
> On Feb 22, 2017, at 11:19 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
> At 09:52 PM 2/21/2017, you wrote:
<edpav8r@yahoo.com>
>>
>> The reed switch is sensitive to magnetic fields. The five turns
("5T" on the diagram) of wire around the switch act as an inductor,
creating a magnetic field that will close the switch when the pitot
heater is drawing current. This will turn on the LED indicator without
having to directly interrupt the feed to the heater or its control
relay.
>
> Correct. See http://tinyurl.com/htf4elj
>
> <http://tinyurl.com/htf4elj> Bob . . .
>
Message 6
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...and the meter in series inserts extra points of failure.
The reed switch is such a smart idea because it's a parallel circuit, but one that's
sensitive to the heat-providing current flowing.
On 22Feb2017, at 4:32 PM, Bernie Willis <arcticarrow@gmail.com> wrote:
Thats a cleaver idea. I put an analog ammeter in the circuit for the same reason
but not as sophisticated.
Bernie
> On Feb 22, 2017, at 11:19 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
wrote:
>
> At 09:52 PM 2/21/2017, you wrote:
>>
>> The reed switch is sensitive to magnetic fields. The five turns ("5T" on the
diagram) of wire around the switch act as an inductor, creating a magnetic field
that will close the switch when the pitot heater is drawing current. This
will turn on the LED indicator without having to directly interrupt the feed
to the heater or its control relay.
>
> Correct. See http://tinyurl.com/htf4elj
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 7
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Not heat; magnetism. The coil generates a magnetic field around the reed
switch, closing it.
On 2/22/2017 3:39 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>
> ...and the meter in series inserts extra points of failure.
> The reed switch is such a smart idea because it's a parallel circuit, but one
that's sensitive to the heat-providing current flowing.
> On 22Feb2017, at 4:32 PM, Bernie Willis <arcticarrow@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thats a cleaver idea. I put an analog ammeter in the circuit for the same reason
but not as sophisticated.
>
> Bernie
>> On Feb 22, 2017, at 11:19 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
wrote:
>>
>> At 09:52 PM 2/21/2017, you wrote:
>>>
>>> The reed switch is sensitive to magnetic fields. The five turns ("5T" on the
diagram) of wire around the switch act as an inductor, creating a magnetic
field that will close the switch when the pitot heater is drawing current. This
will turn on the LED indicator without having to directly interrupt the feed
to the heater or its control relay.
>> Correct. See http://tinyurl.com/htf4elj
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Coaxial Cable |
On 2/22/2017 1:56 PM, William Hunter wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am replacing the coaxial cables for my transponder, ADS-B, Nav, and
> Comm antennas.
>
> What kind of coaxial cable, set of crimp tools, and ends do you all
> recommend?
>
> ..
>
> THANKS!!!
>
> Bill Hunter
>
Are they bad? UV damaged insulation? Cut? Pinched? "If it ain't broke,
don't fix it." (It might get broke. :-) )
If you just gotta do it, RG400 is 'better' than RG58 stranded (good
enough). But never forget; better is the enemy of good enough. Look at
prices. Look at ease of field maintenance if you can get to a consumer
electronics store on a weekend for RG58 crimp connectors, but can't get
RG400 crimp connectors until Tuesday.
Look at B&C
http://www.bandc.aero/aircraft-electrical-tools.aspx
or Stein
http://www.steinair.com/product-category/tools/crimpers/
for tools
Coax & BNC connectors, as well.
Charlie
Message 9
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It's a pitot heat circuit, right? We're sensing the current that generates the
heat in the pitot head. I-squared R and all that.
> On Feb 22, 2017, at 5:19 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Not heat; magnetism. The coil generates a magnetic field around the reed switch,
closing it.
>
>> On 2/22/2017 3:39 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>>
>> ...and the meter in series inserts extra points of failure.
>> The reed switch is such a smart idea because it's a parallel circuit, but one
that's sensitive to the heat-providing current flowing.
>> On 22Feb2017, at 4:32 PM, Bernie Willis <arcticarrow@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Thats a cleaver idea. I put an analog ammeter in the circuit for the same reason
but not as sophisticated.
>>
>> Bernie
>>> On Feb 22, 2017, at 11:19 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
wrote:
>>>
>>> At 09:52 PM 2/21/2017, you wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The reed switch is sensitive to magnetic fields. The five turns ("5T" on
the diagram) of wire around the switch act as an inductor, creating a magnetic
field that will close the switch when the pitot heater is drawing current. This
will turn on the LED indicator without having to directly interrupt the feed
to the heater or its control relay.
>>> Correct. See http://tinyurl.com/htf4elj
>>>
>>> Bob . . .
>>>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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Sorry; the phrasing tricked me. I mis-read it as saying the reed switch
was sensitive to the heat.
On 2/22/2017 5:05 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>
> It's a pitot heat circuit, right? We're sensing the current that generates the
heat in the pitot head. I-squared R and all that.
>
>> On Feb 22, 2017, at 5:19 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Not heat; magnetism. The coil generates a magnetic field around the reed switch,
closing it.
>>
>>> On 2/22/2017 3:39 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>>>
>>> ...and the meter in series inserts extra points of failure.
>>> The reed switch is such a smart idea because it's a parallel circuit, but one
that's sensitive to the heat-providing current flowing.
>>> On 22Feb2017, at 4:32 PM, Bernie Willis <arcticarrow@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Thats a cleaver idea. I put an analog ammeter in the circuit for the same
reason but not as sophisticated.
>>>
>>> Bernie
>>>> On Feb 22, 2017, at 11:19 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
wrote:
>>>>
>>>> At 09:52 PM 2/21/2017, you wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> The reed switch is sensitive to magnetic fields. The five turns ("5T" on
the diagram) of wire around the switch act as an inductor, creating a magnetic
field that will close the switch when the pitot heater is drawing current.
This will turn on the LED indicator without having to directly interrupt the feed
to the heater or its control relay.
>>>> Correct. See http://tinyurl.com/htf4elj
>>>>
>>>> Bob . . .
>>>>
Message 11
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| Subject: | headset matching to radio |
I could use some help on headset and microphone wiring.
I just purchased a Starduster One, which is currently 1000 miles from my home.
I plan to fly it home in a month or so. Before I do that, I need to get the
communications worked out.
The plane has a King KY97A radio installed, with the typical 1/4 and 3/16" jacks
for a headset. The owner's headset works fine, but he's keeping it and I don't
own one (or not a standard one).
In my current plane, I've been using an Icom A24 with a homemade headset consisting
of consumer stereo earbuds and an electret microphone salvaged from an old
computer headset. This works just fine. I have also used a Comtronics helmet
with the Icom radio, and it worked fine as well (aside from the Icom transmit
squeal, which is a separate issue that I solved).
Anyway, my question is, will the homemade setup, which works with the Icom, work
with the King or will I need some additional matching electronics? The Icom
specs say 100kohm mic, 8ohm earphones, whereas the King installation manual says
"Standard carbon or dynamic mic containing transistor-ized preamp. Must provide
100 mVrms into 100 ohm load," and receiver output "100 mW minimum into 500
ohms or 4 W into 4 ohms". I presume the 4 ohm is for a cabin mounted speaker
and the 500 ohm is for a headset, which means I'd need an impedance matching
transformer for the earbuds? As for the microphone, if it's looking for a dynamic
mike with a preamp, it should work with an electret as is?
The problem is with the airplane 1000 miles away, I have to prep everything here
at home, and it needs to "just work" when I pick the plane up as I won't have
much time to fool around with it before departing.
Thanks for any help.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466515#466515
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: headset matching to radio |
This isn't an answer to your question, but...
Do your hearing a favor and get a proper noise-attenuating aviation headset.
There are inexpensive options available if that's the issue, but *any* hea
dset is $hundreds$ cheaper than your first set of hearing aids when you suff
er hearing loss from noise exposure. This is especially critical in an open
cockpit.
If you like in-ear headsets, I can heartily recommend Clarity Aloft:
https://www.clarityaloft.com/
I've been using one in commercial flying for years and I love it. It's quie
ter than my old David-Clark H10-80 that was upgraded with an ANR kit, and I c
an wear it for hours with no discomfort.
Another very similar but cheaper option is the Quiet Technologies Halo:
http://www.quiettechnologies.com/
Eric
> On Feb 22, 2017, at 3:47 PM, Dana <d-m-hague@comcast.net> wrote:
> I could use some help on headset and microphone wiring.
>
> I just purchased a Starduster One, which is currently 1000 miles from my h
ome. I plan to fly it home in a month or so. Before I do that, I need to g
et the communications worked out.
>
> The plane has a King KY97A radio installed, with the typical 1/4 and 3/16"
jacks for a headset. The owner's headset works fine, but he's keeping it a
nd I don't own one (or not a standard one).
>
> In my current plane, I've been using an Icom A24 with a homemade headset c
onsisting of consumer stereo earbuds and an electret microphone salvaged fro
m an old computer headset. This works just fine. I have also used a Comtro
nics helmet with the Icom radio, and it worked fine as well (aside from the I
com transmit squeal, which is a separate issue that I solved).
>
> Anyway, my question is, will the homemade setup, which works with the Icom
, work with the King or will I need some additional matching electronics? T
he Icom specs say 100kohm mic, 8ohm earphones, whereas the King installation
manual says "Standard carbon or dynamic mic containing transistor-ized prea
mp. Must provide 100 mVrms into 100 ohm load," and receiver output "100 mW m
inimum into 500 ohms or 4 W into 4 ohms". I presume the 4 ohm is for a cabi
n mounted speaker and the 500 ohm is for a headset, which means I'd need an i
mpedance matching transformer for the earbuds? As for the microphone, if it
's looking for a dynamic mike with a preamp, it should work with an electret
as is?
>
> The problem is with the airplane 1000 miles away, I have to prep everythin
g here at home, and it needs to "just work" when I pick the plane up as I wo
n't have much time to fool around with it before departing.
>
> Thanks for any help.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: headset matching to radio |
I should have been more clear; I'm using noise canceling earbuds, not ordinary
ones.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466522#466522
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: headset matching to radio |
At 05:47 PM 2/22/2017, you wrote:
>
>I could use some help on headset and microphone wiring.
>
>I just purchased a Starduster One, which is currently 1000 miles
>from my home. I plan to fly it home in a month or so. Before I do
>that, I need to get the communications worked out.
>
>The plane has a King KY97A radio installed, with the typical 1/4 and
>3/16" jacks for a headset. The owner's headset works fine, but he's
>keeping it and I don't own one (or not a standard one).
>
>In my current plane, I've been using an Icom A24 with a homemade
>headset consisting of consumer stereo earbuds and an electret
>microphone salvaged from an old computer headset. This works just
>fine. I have also used a Comtronics helmet with the Icom radio, and
>it worked fine as well (aside from the Icom transmit squeal, which
>is a separate issue that I solved).
>
>Anyway, my question is, will the homemade setup, which works with
>the Icom, work with the King or will I need some additional matching
>electronics? The Icom specs say 100kohm mic, 8ohm earphones,
>whereas the King installation manual says "Standard carbon or
>dynamic mic containing transistor-ized preamp. Must provide 100
>mVrms into 100 ohm load," and receiver output "100 mW minimum into
>500 ohms or 4 W into 4 ohms". I presume the 4 ohm is for a cabin
>mounted speaker and the 500 ohm is for a headset, which means I'd
>need an impedance matching transformer for the earbuds? As for the
>microphone, if it's looking for a dynamic mike with a preamp, it
>should work with an electret as is?
>
>The problem is with the airplane 1000 miles away, I have to prep
>everything here at home, and it needs to "just work" when I pick the
>plane up as I won't have much time to fool around with it before departing.
Your DIY audio rig is not legacy compatible for
aircraft. Virtually ALL off-the-shelf mic/headsets
for aircraft are electret elements fitted with
the amplifier described. Suggest you borrow a
legacy headset to get the airplane home where
your efforts to adapt the DIY system will are
easier to accomplish.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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> If you just gotta do it,
Yep.when ya gotta.ya just gotta.
This is a new install of transponder and ADS-B.
Thanks for the advice. I definitely need to measure out the EXACT length of
cable that I need (plus a little bit more for mama and the kids) as the
RG400 is kinda pricey. Hmmm, I guess the higher number of RG's means the
more money it costs?!?!? I was hoping for more like an RG4.
Anyhoo, thanks for the advice.
..
Cheers!!!
Bill Hunter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie
England
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Coaxial Cable
On 2/22/2017 1:56 PM, William Hunter wrote:
Hi All,
I am replacing the coaxial cables for my transponder, ADS-B, Nav, and Comm
antennas.
What kind of coaxial cable, set of crimp tools, and ends do you all
recommend?
..
THANKS!!!
Bill Hunter
Are they bad? UV damaged insulation? Cut? Pinched? "If it ain't broke, don't
fix it." (It might get broke. :-) )
If you just gotta do it, RG400 is 'better' than RG58 stranded (good enough).
But never forget; better is the enemy of good enough. Look at prices. Look
at ease of field maintenance if you can get to a consumer electronics store
on a weekend for RG58 crimp connectors, but can't get RG400 crimp connectors
until Tuesday.
Look at B&C
http://www.bandc.aero/aircraft-electrical-tools.aspx
or Stein
http://www.steinair.com/product-category/tools/crimpers/
for tools
Coax & BNC connectors, as well.
Charlie
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: headset matching to radio |
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
>
> Your DIY audio rig is not legacy compatible for
> aircraft. Virtually ALL off-the-shelf mic/headsets
> for aircraft are electret elements fitted with
> the amplifier described. Suggest you borrow a
> legacy headset to get the airplane home where
> your efforts to adapt the DIY system will are
> easier to accomplish.
That's probably what I'll do, unless I can get something together and tested here.
I have a month or two.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466529#466529
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: headset matching to radio |
On 2/22/2017 8:08 PM, Dana wrote:
>
>
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
>> Your DIY audio rig is not legacy compatible for
>> aircraft. Virtually ALL off-the-shelf mic/headsets
>> for aircraft are electret elements fitted with
>> the amplifier described. Suggest you borrow a
>> legacy headset to get the airplane home where
>> your efforts to adapt the DIY system will are
>> easier to accomplish.
>
> That's probably what I'll do, unless I can get something together and tested
here. I have a month or two.
>
>
Just plug your rig into an airport neighbor's plane with the same or
similar age radio. You'll know fairly quickly if it's compatible or not.
Message 18
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My neighbor installs adsb's in certified a/c as a dealer/repair station. He uses
RG58 coax exclusively. Check the specs.
'Better is the enemy of good enough.'
Charlie
On Feb 22, 2017, 7:56 PM, at 7:56 PM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com>
wrote:
>> If you just gotta do it,
>
>
>
>Yep.when ya gotta.ya just gotta.
>
>
>
>This is a new install of transponder and ADS-B.
>
>
>
>Thanks for the advice. I definitely need to measure out the EXACT
>length of
>cable that I need (plus a little bit more for mama and the kids) as the
>RG400 is kinda pricey. Hmmm, I guess the higher number of RG's means
>the
>more money it costs?!?!? I was hoping for more like an RG4.
>
>
>
>Anyhoo, thanks for the advice.
>
>
>
>..
>
>
>
>Cheers!!!
>
>
>
>Bill Hunter
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>Charlie
>England
>Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 2:31 PM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Coaxial Cable
>
>
>
>On 2/22/2017 1:56 PM, William Hunter wrote:
>
>Hi All,
>
>
>
>I am replacing the coaxial cables for my transponder, ADS-B, Nav, and
>Comm
>antennas.
>
>
>
>What kind of coaxial cable, set of crimp tools, and ends do you all
>recommend?
>
>
>
>..
>
>
>
>THANKS!!!
>
>
>
>Bill Hunter
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Are they bad? UV damaged insulation? Cut? Pinched? "If it ain't broke,
>don't
>fix it." (It might get broke. :-) )
>
>If you just gotta do it, RG400 is 'better' than RG58 stranded (good
>enough).
>But never forget; better is the enemy of good enough. Look at prices.
>Look
>at ease of field maintenance if you can get to a consumer electronics
>store
>on a weekend for RG58 crimp connectors, but can't get RG400 crimp
>connectors
>until Tuesday.
>
>Look at B&C
>http://www.bandc.aero/aircraft-electrical-tools.aspx
> or Stein
>http://www.steinair.com/product-category/tools/crimpers/
>for tools
>
>Coax & BNC connectors, as well.
>
>Charlie
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