Today's Message Index:
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1. 08:24 AM - BATTERY FUSE (user9253)
2. 10:21 AM - Re: BATTERY FUSE (C&K)
3. 11:03 AM - Re: BATTERY FUSE (user9253)
4. 12:23 PM - Re: Re: BATTERY FUSE (Kelly McMullen)
5. 03:40 PM - ACS wire harness (dj45)
Message 1
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A friend of mine is building a plane with an 8 cylinder automotive engine. I noticed
that he had installed a 100 amp ANL fuse in series with the battery cable.
The fuse is located 6 inches from the battery and all battery current will
go through that fuse including starter current. I asked my friend if that 100
amp ANL will handle the starter current. His response was, "It's a 35 amp
battery." I told him that a 100 amp ANL might not handle starting current. He
said that if it doesn't, he will replace it with a 150 amp.
I think that the fuse will need to be bigger, like 200 amp or more. Actually
I do not think that there should be a fuse in series with the battery cable at
all. It is one more thing to fail and it adds resistance to the battery cranking
circuit. How can I convince my friend that fuse is not necessary or even
desired? If he will not change his mind, what size ANL fuse should he use?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466858#466858
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: BATTERY FUSE |
Tell him to crank it for 20 seconds and check the temperature of the ANL??
If he was serious about "It's a 35 amp battery", the larger implications
are scary for someone trying to run an automotive engine!
A few guys put the blinders on by putting all their dollars and faith in
a particular vendor who may not be giving the best advice, they may be
unreceptive to any other ideas. Some guys just have to learn the hard
way but assure him that an ANL in the ground circuit is not standard
practice. And don't put yourself in the position where a friend or
lawyer will claim you oversaw the project.
Does his second engine ground path provide a current path to the
alternator? That reduces the chance that he will notice if the ANL pops
during a successful engine start though. He does have a second heavy
grounding strap/wire on his electric dependent engine??
FWIW with a crude meter I used to see well over 100 amps cranking sixes
and eights although it pulses heavily at each compression stroke. DC
(no typo) clamp on meters can be had for under $20. these days on ebay
but they are not very useful for pulsating loads like a starter. The 100
ANL will probably work ...for awhile. And hopefully he'll be on the
ground when it goes bad. I've also seen some 4 cylinder engines that
turn over faster and draw more current than the slower cranking larger
engines.
Ken
On 04/03/2017 11:21 AM, user9253 wrote:
>
> A friend of mine is building a plane with an 8 cylinder automotive engine. I
noticed that he had installed a 100 amp ANL fuse in series with the battery cable.
The fuse is located 6 inches from the battery and all battery current will
go through that fuse including starter current. I asked my friend if that
100 amp ANL will handle the starter current. His response was, "It's a 35 amp
battery." I told him that a 100 amp ANL might not handle starting current.
He said that if it doesn't, he will replace it with a 150 amp.
> I think that the fuse will need to be bigger, like 200 amp or more. Actually
I do not think that there should be a fuse in series with the battery cable
at all. It is one more thing to fail and it adds resistance to the battery
cranking circuit. How can I convince my friend that fuse is not necessary or
even desired? If he will not change his mind, what size ANL fuse should he use?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466858#466858
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: BATTERY FUSE |
I should have been more specific about the battery cable. He put the ANL in the
positive cable, not the ground cable.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466862#466862
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: BATTERY FUSE |
The battery cable doesn't need protection. If it shorts, it will be a
very short term welding cable. As I'm sure you are trying to persuade,
the ANL should go in the alternator power output cable, and be sized
appropriate to the alternator capacity. Battery size is mostly irrelevant.
The battery/starter cables only need to carry big current during
cranking, and fusing that circuit makes zero sense. If they fail during
cranking, it will be on the ground, and not a hazard to pilot or pax.
On 3/4/2017 12:00 PM, user9253 wrote:
>
> I should have been more specific about the battery cable. He put the ANL in
the positive cable, not the ground cable.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466862#466862
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | ACS wire harness |
I purchased a wire harness for a Micro air 760 radio (rev. Q). Due to unavailability
of Micro air products, I changed to Trig.
Thinking that most of the Micro air harness would be usable, I started to look
it over for whatever changes might need to be made. Well after three jumper wires
pulled out of their joints, I opened up all of them. All but ONE were cold
joints, held together with heat shrink.
If you have one of these, it would be to your advantage to take a very close look
at it..
--------
Do not archive
Dan Stanton
N801S CH 801
N226BS CH701
N24DS CH750
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466870#466870
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