Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:28 AM - Re: Re: Z-17 battery/ alternator switch (Stuart Hutchison)
2. 04:55 AM - Re: Re: Z-17 battery/ alternator switch (Jeff Point)
3. 07:35 AM - Re: Z-17 battery/ alternator switch (user9253)
4. 09:15 AM - Re: Re: Z-17 battery/ alternator switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 09:47 AM - Starter Hesitation (RV7ASask)
6. 10:13 AM - Re: Starter Hesitation ()
7. 10:51 AM - Re: Starter Hesitation (user9253)
8. 11:22 AM - Magnetometer Near Transponder Antenna (William Hunter)
9. 11:30 AM - Re: Starter Hesitation (RV7ASask)
10. 12:01 PM - Re: Re: Starter Hesitation (Alec Myers)
11. 12:06 PM - Re: Magnetometer Near Transponder Antenna (Alec Myers)
12. 12:41 PM - Re: Magnetometer Near Transponder Antenna (Kelly McMullen)
13. 12:42 PM - Re: Re: Starter Hesitation (Charlie England)
14. 12:43 PM - Re: Re: Starter Hesitation (Robert McCallum)
15. 01:02 PM - Re: Re: Starter Hesitation (Tim Olson)
16. 01:54 PM - Re: Magnetometer Near Transponder Antenna (William Hunter)
17. 03:29 PM - Re: Re: Starter Hesitation (Ken Ryan)
18. 04:24 PM - Re: Magnetometer Near Transponder Antenna (Kelly McMullen)
19. 05:16 PM - D-Sub Connectors and (William Hunter)
20. 06:04 PM - Re: D-Sub Connectors and (Daniel Hooper)
21. 06:19 PM - Re: D-Sub Connectors and (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
22. 06:30 PM - Re: D-Sub Connectors and (William Hunter)
23. 07:10 PM - Re: Re: Starter Hesitation (edward Clegg)
24. 07:38 PM - Re: Starter Hesitation (RV7ASask)
25. 07:52 PM - Hobbs wiring (Ron Burnett)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Z-17 battery/ alternator switch |
Thanks Joe.
Id be interested to know yours and Bob's thoughts on the legitimacy of an article
I read in the club house a few years back.
The author explained that aeroplane alternators seem have a higher rate of failure
compared to motor vehicle alternators that are also more commonly subjected
to mud, water and dust ingress. His reasoning was that in a car the alternator
field is isolated during the start sequence (as are the lights and most other
power hungry devices that add to the battery load) until the key is released
to its normal position. By contrast, when cranking an aeroplane engine with
the alternator field excited, the voltage regulator senses a substantial sag
in bus voltage and attempts to draw max output from the alternator to fix the
problem before the alternator has sufficient RPM to provide the required output.
I reasoned that this was why some manufacturers have split or separate alternator
switches. Any truth to this concept then?
Cheers, Stu
> On 8 Mar 2017, at 13:11, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Recommended so that the pilot does not forget to turn it on.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466988#466988
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| Subject: | Re: Z-17 battery/ alternator switch |
Thanks for the detailed answer Bob, that makes a lot of sense. One of
my design goals is to keep the switch position and function as similar
as I can to my other airplane, especially the power and ignition
switches. A single throw it will be.
Jeff Point
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| Subject: | Re: Z-17 battery/ alternator switch |
> Thanks Joe. Id be interested to know yours and Bob's thoughts on the legitimacy
of an article I read in the club house a few years back.
I am no expert on alternators. But it would seem to me that maximum field current
for several seconds should not cause premature failure.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467014#467014
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| Subject: | Re: Z-17 battery/ alternator switch |
>The author explained that aeroplane alternators seem have a higher
>rate of failure compared to motor vehicle alternators that are also
>more commonly subjected to mud, water and dust ingress. His
>reasoning was that in a car the alternator field is isolated during
>the start sequence (as are the lights and most other power hungry
>devices that add to the battery load) until the key is released to
>its normal position. By contrast, when cranking an aeroplane engine
>with the alternator field excited, the voltage regulator senses a
>substantial sag in bus voltage and attempts to draw max output from
>the alternator to fix the problem before the alternator has
>sufficient RPM to provide the required output. I reasoned that this
>was why some manufacturers have split or separate alternator
>switches. Any truth to this concept then?
"higher rates of failure" is not very descriptive
of cause and effect. While it's true that some
alternators in aircraft have been problematic,
most of my encounters have been grounded in
design or manufacturing defect. We used to break
a lot of brackets on some installations. Piper's
love affair with the Chrysler 'pancake' alternators
led to short service life on attach brackets. An
alternator I conducted failure analysis on a
few months back had press fit diodes pushed into
oversized holes at odd angles using a hand-tool
as opposed to the recommended hydraulic press.
Emacs!
The diodes were deprived of good heat sinking and in
some cases, good electrical conductivity.
The last task I mounted in TC aviation concerned alternators
that wouldn't stay on line . . . a problem I'd worked at
least two previous times over 30 years. Focus
of the investigation was on alternators that had
demonstrated problems over the years, but in this case
it was the regulator's o.v. sense system that was
overly sensitive to normal brush noise from this
alternator . . . they struggled for weeks to "filter"
the field leads (with limited success) while in fact,
it was the regulator that needed to be changed out.
At the same time, alternators supplied by B&C (and
no doubt others) have an exceedingly low return
rate.
The hypothesis offered in the article is without
foundation in physics or practice. If the author
went to the lab, he would not be able to reproduce
a failure by duplication of conditions cited in the
hypothesis.
It's all physics. For every failure there IS a
combination of conditions leading up to that failure.
Proper operations of switches by crew are exceedingly
unlikely to be in the chorus of conditions. Joe is
correct, a few seconds of full-field operation is
of no particular hardship on an alternator.
Bob . . .
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| Subject: | Starter Hesitation |
I posted the questions below on the Lycoming List and received some good advice.
I would like to pose the questions again to my learned friends on the Aeroelectric
List to see if I can get a little more insite.
"I have a Sky-Tec starter on a Lycoming IO360. It has always started the engine
BUT lately when I push the START button there is a pause. Sometimes it is a long
pause then it kicks in. Sometimes I release the button and try again. I have
a fear it will not start one time when I am a long way from maintenance or
from home. Is this a symptom of something worse to come? Should I be concerned?"
Thanks
David Lamb
RV7A C-FLAM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467023#467023
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| Subject: | Starter Hesitation |
"I have a Sky-Tec starter on a Lycoming IO360. It has always started the en
gine BUT lately when I push the START button there is a pause. Sometimes it
is a long pause then it kicks in. Sometimes I release the button and try a
gain. I have a fear it will not start one time when I am a long way from ma
intenance or from home. Is this a symptom of something worse to come? Shoul
d I be concerned?"
When you say =9Cpause=9D, does this mean nothing happens, or t
here is only
a click, or there is a click and the starter spins up but does not engage
the flywheel gear? A bit more explanation is in order.
Yes, it may get worse, and yes you should be concerned.
Roger
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Hesitation |
There could be a mechanical problem with the engine or starter. If those have
been ruled out, next check for voltage drops in the starter circuit. It is much
easier to find bad connections when the circuit is under heavy load. Disconnect
the starter motor and connect a heavy load in its place. While current
is flowing, measure the voltage between the battery positive post and the positive
terminal at the starter end. And then measure voltage between the battery
negative post and starter ground.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467028#467028
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| Subject: | Magnetometer Near Transponder Antenna |
Hi cyber Friends!!!
I am building a composite pusher airplane and due to the rather large size
of the Dynon SV ADAHRS it is it difficult to find a suitable installation
location. Dynon sells a remote magnetometer MAG-236 however the box size
is the same (both units share the exact same box). The Skyview will not
work with another vendors unit because of the proprietary nature of the
network.
In the nose I have a landing light, autopilot servos, and an electric trim
motor. In the tail I have an engine with electronic ignition and strobe
power box.
The the most convenient location for my SV-ADAHRS-200 is under the back
seat and I could install it onto the ground plane of the transponder ...
the transponder antenna is mounted onto this aluminum ground plane and then
the transponder antenna is stuck straight down through the airplane
floorboard so that it sticks out from the belly of the airplane so this
ground olane would be a convenient installation rack.
Would the transponder antenna cause magnetic interference if mounted in
this manner? The cable to the transponder will of course be shielded.
The kids will be seated back there and they will have all of their various
digital gear (iPads, etc) fired up and chargers plugged in however I do not
know much magnetic interference the iPads and chargers will cause 2 feet
away from the unit under their seat.
Any suggestions?
THANKS!!!
Bill Hunter
On Mar 8, 2017 10:59 AM, "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
There could be a mechanical problem with the engine or starter. If those
have been ruled out, next check for voltage drops in the starter circuit.
It is much easier to find bad connections when the circuit is under heavy
load. Disconnect the starter motor and connect a heavy load in its place.
While current is flowing, measure the voltage between the battery positive
post and the positive terminal at the starter end. And then measure
voltage between the battery negative post and starter ground.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467028#467028
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Hesitation |
The "pause" is absolute silence. Nothing. It could be as long as four or five seconds
then rotation.
David
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467031#467031
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Hesitation |
I had something a little similar: it turned out to be a weak battery. I surmised
that the starter was trying to turn the engine against the oil bead, or static
friction of the pistons. Perhaps differentiating it from your case, sometimes
it would stall after half a revolution for a second or two, until the compression
in the cylinders was released.
Try moving the prop by hand back and forth a quarter turn before starting, see
if that eases the situation. That might give you a clue. And if not a weak battery,
then excessive voltage drop in the lines.
On 8Mar2017, at 2:27 PM, RV7ASask <rv7alamb@sasktel.net> wrote:
The "pause" is absolute silence. Nothing. It could be as long as four or five seconds
then rotation.
David
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467031#467031
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| Subject: | Re: Magnetometer Near Transponder Antenna |
It's not just electrical currents you have to watch out for. Any item with an appreciable
amount of soft iron content will cause issues. Aside from it's own
residual magnetic field the mere presence of a local magnetically permeable object
distorts the direction of the very weak Earth's field that your magentometer
is trying to sense.
Something that might cause an issue, for instance, would be a toolbox put on the
back seat.
There will be some kind of self-calibration procedure, but that won't help much
if the putative toolbox moves in flight.
On 8Mar2017, at 2:18 PM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi cyber Friends!!!
I am building a composite pusher airplane and due to the rather large size of the
Dynon SV ADAHRS it is it difficult to find a suitable installation location.
Dynon sells a remote magnetometer MAG-236 however the box size is the same
(both units share the exact same box). The Skyview will not work with another
vendors unit because of the proprietary nature of the network.
In the nose I have a landing light, autopilot servos, and an electric trim motor.
In the tail I have an engine with electronic ignition and strobe power box.
The the most convenient location for my SV-ADAHRS-200 is under the back seat and
I could install it onto the ground plane of the transponder ... the transponder
antenna is mounted onto this aluminum ground plane and then the transponder
antenna is stuck straight down through the airplane floorboard so that it sticks
out from the belly of the airplane so this ground olane would be a convenient
installation rack.
Would the transponder antenna cause magnetic interference if mounted in this manner?
The cable to the transponder will of course be shielded.
The kids will be seated back there and they will have all of their various digital
gear (iPads, etc) fired up and chargers plugged in however I do not know much
magnetic interference the iPads and chargers will cause 2 feet away from the
unit under their seat.
Any suggestions?
THANKS!!!
Bill Hunter
On Mar 8, 2017 10:59 AM, "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
There could be a mechanical problem with the engine or starter. If those have
been ruled out, next check for voltage drops in the starter circuit. It is much
easier to find bad connections when the circuit is under heavy load. Disconnect
the starter motor and connect a heavy load in its place. While current
is flowing, measure the voltage between the battery positive post and the positive
terminal at the starter end. And then measure voltage between the battery
negative post and starter ground.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467028#467028
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| Subject: | Re: Magnetometer Near Transponder Antenna |
While it can be challenging to find magnetically quiet areas on certain
aircraft, the Dynon Skyview ADAHRS is NOT large in size. The units are
smaller than a pack of cigarettes. Usually the separate magnetometer can
be located near a wing tip if there isn't a quiet area in the fuselage.
I built a shelf at the top of my fuselage to keep mine away from moving
cables, flight controls and other electrics.
On 3/8/2017 1:03 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>
> It's not just electrical currents you have to watch out for. Any item with an
appreciable amount of soft iron content will cause issues. Aside from it's own
residual magnetic field the mere presence of a local magnetically permeable
object distorts the direction of the very weak Earth's field that your magentometer
is trying to sense.
>
> Something that might cause an issue, for instance, would be a toolbox put on
the back seat.
>
> There will be some kind of self-calibration procedure, but that won't help much
if the putative toolbox moves in flight.
>
>
> On 8Mar2017, at 2:18 PM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi cyber Friends!!!
>
> I am building a composite pusher airplane and due to the rather large size of
the Dynon SV ADAHRS it is it difficult to find a suitable installation location.
Dynon sells a remote magnetometer MAG-236 however the box size is the same
(both units share the exact same box). The Skyview will not work with another
vendors unit because of the proprietary nature of the network.
>
> In the nose I have a landing light, autopilot servos, and an electric trim motor.
In the tail I have an engine with electronic ignition and strobe power box.
>
> The the most convenient location for my SV-ADAHRS-200 is under the back seat
and I could install it onto the ground plane of the transponder ... the transponder
antenna is mounted onto this aluminum ground plane and then the transponder
antenna is stuck straight down through the airplane floorboard so that it
sticks out from the belly of the airplane so this ground olane would be a convenient
installation rack.
>
> Would the transponder antenna cause magnetic interference if mounted in this
manner? The cable to the transponder will of course be shielded.
>
> The kids will be seated back there and they will have all of their various digital
gear (iPads, etc) fired up and chargers plugged in however I do not know
much magnetic interference the iPads and chargers will cause 2 feet away from
the unit under their seat.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> THANKS!!!
>
> Bill Hunter
>
>
> On Mar 8, 2017 10:59 AM, "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> There could be a mechanical problem with the engine or starter. If those have
been ruled out, next check for voltage drops in the starter circuit. It is
much easier to find bad connections when the circuit is under heavy load. Disconnect
the starter motor and connect a heavy load in its place. While current
is flowing, measure the voltage between the battery positive post and the positive
terminal at the starter end. And then measure voltage between the battery
negative post and starter ground.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467028#467028
>
>
> ===================================
> -
> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ===================================
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Hesitation |
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Hesitation |
David;
Sounds like a faulty starter switch/button which is not sending the "start"
signal to the solenoid. If the start signal was going to the solenoid you'd at
least have a "click". With absolutely nothing, dead silence, the circuit must be
open before the solenoid somewhere. The most likely suspect being the starter
button/switch. OR, possibly a ground issue for the solenoid. where it isn't
being grounded properly and therefore not pulling in. Sometimes dirty switch
contacts or dubious grounds "make" on their own after a short period as tiny
currents, clean or burn away the high resistance connection allowing the
necessary current to then flow.
Bob McC
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: RV7ASask <rv7alamb@sasktel.net>
> Date: March 8, 2017 at 2:27 PM
>
>
>
> The "pause" is absolute silence. Nothing. It could be as long as four or
> five seconds then rotation.
>
> David
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467031#467031
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Hesitation |
This same sort of thing just happened to me. Turn the key, and
nothing but the firewall solenoid clunking. Turn it a couple
more times and everything was great.
I replaced the starter and then things were fine, but, I did
one thing in the meantime. The old starter was wired per
Van's plans where you have both the fat wire and the other
wire running from the firewall solenoid to the starter solenoid.
So one big terminal and one small terminal on each end...jumper
removed on the starter.
The new starter I wired with just the single fat wire.
Since it was an NL starter, you have to wire them with
just the fat wire.
With that, everything works fine.
And, bench testing the starter for both the solenoid action,
and the combined solenoid+spin worked just fine many many
times during the test.
So ultimately I'm guessing I wasn't making good contact
on the small terminal of the firewall solenoid. I can't
remember if that was the "S" terminal or not off hand as I
type this.
Anyway, just something to consider.
Tim
On 03/08/2017 02:32 PM, Charlie England wrote:
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: RV7ASask
> Date:03/08/2017 2:27 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Starter Hesitation
>
>
> The "pause" is absolute silence. Nothing. It could be as long as four or
> five seconds then rotation.
>
> David
>
> If not even a click, that points to the start switch, or a sticking
> start solenoid.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467031#467031
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Magnetometer Near Transponder Antenna |
Kelly,
Thanks for the information. Are you running a Skyview?
The Skyview system has a remote mounted ADAHRS-200 box (both attitude and
compass) and also an optional SV-MAG-236 remote mounted magnetic compass for
challenging installations where the location of the ADAHRS is too
magnetically noisy.
Sadly, both boxes listed above use the exact same design case and its
dimensions are 2.60 inches front/back (plus some for the serial connector),
4.71 inches side to side, and 1.22 inches tall. If they offered a cigarette
box sixed gizmo then I would be super happy however the SV-MAG-236 is all
they have to offer and the space I have out at my strake end is too small.
I really do not want to have to get involved in carving out a chunk of my
wing foam...that would suck.
..
Cheers!!!
Bill Hunter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, March 8, 2017 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Magnetometer Near Transponder Antenna
--> <kellym@aviating.com>
While it can be challenging to find magnetically quiet areas on certain
aircraft, the Dynon Skyview ADAHRS is NOT large in size. The units are
smaller than a pack of cigarettes. Usually the separate magnetometer can be
located near a wing tip if there isn't a quiet area in the fuselage.
I built a shelf at the top of my fuselage to keep mine away from moving
cables, flight controls and other electrics.
On 3/8/2017 1:03 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
> --> <alec@alecmyers.com>
>
> It's not just electrical currents you have to watch out for. Any item with
an appreciable amount of soft iron content will cause issues. Aside from
it's own residual magnetic field the mere presence of a local magnetically
permeable object distorts the direction of the very weak Earth's field that
your magentometer is trying to sense.
>
> Something that might cause an issue, for instance, would be a toolbox put
on the back seat.
>
> There will be some kind of self-calibration procedure, but that won't help
much if the putative toolbox moves in flight.
>
>
> On 8Mar2017, at 2:18 PM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
> Hi cyber Friends!!!
>
> I am building a composite pusher airplane and due to the rather large size
of the Dynon SV ADAHRS it is it difficult to find a suitable installation
location. Dynon sells a remote magnetometer MAG-236 however the box size is
the same (both units share the exact same box). The Skyview will not work
with another vendors unit because of the proprietary nature of the network.
>
> In the nose I have a landing light, autopilot servos, and an electric trim
motor. In the tail I have an engine with electronic ignition and strobe
power box.
>
> The the most convenient location for my SV-ADAHRS-200 is under the back
seat and I could install it onto the ground plane of the transponder ... the
transponder antenna is mounted onto this aluminum ground plane and then the
transponder antenna is stuck straight down through the airplane floorboard
so that it sticks out from the belly of the airplane so this ground olane
would be a convenient installation rack.
>
> Would the transponder antenna cause magnetic interference if mounted in
this manner? The cable to the transponder will of course be shielded.
>
> The kids will be seated back there and they will have all of their various
digital gear (iPads, etc) fired up and chargers plugged in however I do not
know much magnetic interference the iPads and chargers will cause 2 feet
away from the unit under their seat.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> THANKS!!!
>
> Bill Hunter
>
>
> On Mar 8, 2017 10:59 AM, "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
> --> <fransew@gmail.com>
>
> There could be a mechanical problem with the engine or starter. If those
have been ruled out, next check for voltage drops in the starter circuit.
It is much easier to find bad connections when the circuit is under heavy
load. Disconnect the starter motor and connect a heavy load in its place.
While current is flowing, measure the voltage between the battery positive
post and the positive terminal at the starter end. And then measure voltage
between the battery negative post and starter ground.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467028#467028
>
>
> ===================================
> -
> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ===================================
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Hesitation |
I don't know if this helps, but it is a characteristic of LiFePO4 batteries
that under some conditions performance will improve when a load is applied.
Presumably the load warms things up, resistance drops, and voltage rises,
but that explanation is just this neophyte's guess. So, given this
behavior.....
.....it is possible that the battery is heating up from the load, and then
finally reaching the point where it will spin the prop. A fresh battery
would be the answer
On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 11:59 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> This same sort of thing just happened to me. Turn the key, and
> nothing but the firewall solenoid clunking. Turn it a couple
> more times and everything was great.
>
> I replaced the starter and then things were fine, but, I did
> one thing in the meantime. The old starter was wired per
> Van's plans where you have both the fat wire and the other
> wire running from the firewall solenoid to the starter solenoid.
> So one big terminal and one small terminal on each end...jumper
> removed on the starter.
>
> The new starter I wired with just the single fat wire.
> Since it was an NL starter, you have to wire them with
> just the fat wire.
>
> With that, everything works fine.
>
> And, bench testing the starter for both the solenoid action,
> and the combined solenoid+spin worked just fine many many
> times during the test.
>
> So ultimately I'm guessing I wasn't making good contact
> on the small terminal of the firewall solenoid. I can't
> remember if that was the "S" terminal or not off hand as I
> type this.
>
> Anyway, just something to consider.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 03/08/2017 02:32 PM, Charlie England wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: RV7ASask
>> Date:03/08/2017 2:27 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Starter Hesitation
>>
>> >
>>
>> The "pause" is absolute silence. Nothing. It could be as long as four or
>> five seconds then rotation.
>>
>> David
>>
>> If not even a click, that points to the start switch, or a sticking
>> start solenoid.
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467031#467031
>>
>>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Magnetometer Near Transponder Antenna |
Yes, I have a Skyview system. Yes, the box is a little fatter than
cigarette pack, but not by much. I have both the ADAHRS-200 and 201 for
redundancy. I don't know how you would package them much smaller,
especially the ADAHRS to make the necessary static and pitot connections.
On 3/8/2017 2:52 PM, William Hunter wrote:
>
> Kelly,
>
> Thanks for the information. Are you running a Skyview?
>
> The Skyview system has a remote mounted ADAHRS-200 box (both attitude and
> compass) and also an optional SV-MAG-236 remote mounted magnetic compass for
> challenging installations where the location of the ADAHRS is too
> magnetically noisy.
>
> Sadly, both boxes listed above use the exact same design case and its
> dimensions are 2.60 inches front/back (plus some for the serial connector),
> 4.71 inches side to side, and 1.22 inches tall. If they offered a cigarette
> box sixed gizmo then I would be super happy however the SV-MAG-236 is all
> they have to offer and the space I have out at my strake end is too small.
> I really do not want to have to get involved in carving out a chunk of my
> wing foam...that would suck.
>
> ..
>
> Cheers!!!
>
> Bill Hunter
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
> McMullen
> Sent: Wednesday, March 8, 2017 12:29 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Magnetometer Near Transponder Antenna
>
> --> <kellym@aviating.com>
>
> While it can be challenging to find magnetically quiet areas on certain
> aircraft, the Dynon Skyview ADAHRS is NOT large in size. The units are
> smaller than a pack of cigarettes. Usually the separate magnetometer can be
> located near a wing tip if there isn't a quiet area in the fuselage.
> I built a shelf at the top of my fuselage to keep mine away from moving
> cables, flight controls and other electrics.
>
>
> On 3/8/2017 1:03 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>> --> <alec@alecmyers.com>
>>
>> It's not just electrical currents you have to watch out for. Any item with
> an appreciable amount of soft iron content will cause issues. Aside from
> it's own residual magnetic field the mere presence of a local magnetically
> permeable object distorts the direction of the very weak Earth's field that
> your magentometer is trying to sense.
>>
>> Something that might cause an issue, for instance, would be a toolbox put
> on the back seat.
>>
>> There will be some kind of self-calibration procedure, but that won't help
> much if the putative toolbox moves in flight.
>>
>>
>> On 8Mar2017, at 2:18 PM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>>
>> Hi cyber Friends!!!
>>
>> I am building a composite pusher airplane and due to the rather large size
> of the Dynon SV ADAHRS it is it difficult to find a suitable installation
> location. Dynon sells a remote magnetometer MAG-236 however the box size is
> the same (both units share the exact same box). The Skyview will not work
> with another vendors unit because of the proprietary nature of the network.
>>
>> In the nose I have a landing light, autopilot servos, and an electric trim
> motor. In the tail I have an engine with electronic ignition and strobe
> power box.
>>
>> The the most convenient location for my SV-ADAHRS-200 is under the back
> seat and I could install it onto the ground plane of the transponder ... the
> transponder antenna is mounted onto this aluminum ground plane and then the
> transponder antenna is stuck straight down through the airplane floorboard
> so that it sticks out from the belly of the airplane so this ground olane
> would be a convenient installation rack.
>>
>> Would the transponder antenna cause magnetic interference if mounted in
> this manner? The cable to the transponder will of course be shielded.
>>
>> The kids will be seated back there and they will have all of their various
> digital gear (iPads, etc) fired up and chargers plugged in however I do not
> know much magnetic interference the iPads and chargers will cause 2 feet
> away from the unit under their seat.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> THANKS!!!
>>
>> Bill Hunter
>>
>>
>> On Mar 8, 2017 10:59 AM, "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>> --> <fransew@gmail.com>
>>
>> There could be a mechanical problem with the engine or starter. If those
> have been ruled out, next check for voltage drops in the starter circuit.
> It is much easier to find bad connections when the circuit is under heavy
> load. Disconnect the starter motor and connect a heavy load in its place.
> While current is flowing, measure the voltage between the battery positive
> post and the positive terminal at the starter end. And then measure voltage
> between the battery negative post and starter ground.
>>
>> --------
>> Joe Gores
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467028#467028
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ===================================
>> -
>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | D-Sub Connectors and |
Hi All,
I am wiring my Infinity Grips to my panel and I want to install them with a
connector as opposed to hard wired.
I bought this D-Sub 15 pin connector:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R2JGOU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie
=UTF8&psc=1
I do not like the connectors with the metal tap on something so small (makes
me use too many bad words in the process) so I would greatly prefer to use
the M39029/58-360 and M39029/57-354 connectors because I already have the
Eclipse crimp tool.
Does anyone know if these connectors will insert into the D-Sub 15 pin
connector I purchased? If not what connector should I buy to use with the
M39029/XXXX?
THANKS!!!
Bill Hunter
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: D-Sub Connectors and |
I am not recommending this for your airplane, but when I have to take small-gauge
wire into a screw terminal, I strip twice the length, double it back, and give
it a gentle twist.
That way you're working with twice the amount of wire as before for the screw to
grab.
Hope someone can answer your pin contact question, but just throwing that out for
future consideration.
Daniel
> On Mar 8, 2017, at 7:07 PM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am wiring my Infinity Grips to my panel and I want to install them with a
> connector as opposed to hard wired.
>
> I bought this D-Sub 15 pin connector:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R2JGOU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie
> =UTF8&psc=1
>
> I do not like the connectors with the metal tap on something so small (makes
> me use too many bad words in the process) so I would greatly prefer to use
> the M39029/58-360 and M39029/57-354 connectors because I already have the
> Eclipse crimp tool.
>
> Does anyone know if these connectors will insert into the D-Sub 15 pin
> connector I purchased? If not what connector should I buy to use with the
> M39029/XXXX?
>
> THANKS!!!
>
>
> Bill Hunter
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: D-Sub Connectors and |
At 07:07 PM 3/8/2017, you wrote:
><billhuntersemail@gmail.com>
>
>Hi All,
>
>I am wiring my Infinity Grips to my panel and I want to install them with a
>connector as opposed to hard wired.
>
>I bought this D-Sub 15 pin connector:
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R2JGOU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie
>=UTF8&psc=1
>
>I do not like the connectors with the metal tap on something so small (makes
>me use too many bad words in the process) so I would greatly prefer to use
>the M39029/58-360 and M39029/57-354 connectors because I already have the
>Eclipse crimp tool.
>
>Does anyone know if these connectors will insert into the D-Sub 15 pin
>connector I purchased? If not what connector should I buy to use with the
>M39029/XXXX?
>
It should be fine . . .
Bob . . .
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: D-Sub Connectors and |
That is the answer I was looking for. Thanks Bob!!! That is the answer I
was looking for. Thanks Bob!!
Bill Hunter
On Mar 8, 2017 6:25 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 07:07 PM 3/8/2017, you wrote:
>
> billhuntersemail@gmail.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am wiring my Infinity Grips to my panel and I want to install them with a
> connector as opposed to hard wired.
>
> I bought this D-Sub 15 pin connector:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R2JGOU/ref=oh_aui_
> search_detailpage?ie
> =UTF8&psc=1
>
> I do not like the connectors with the metal tap on something so small
> (makes
> me use too many bad words in the process) so I would greatly prefer to use
> the M39029/58-360 and M39029/57-354 connectors because I already have the
> Eclipse crimp tool.
>
> Does anyone know if these connectors will insert into the D-Sub 15 pin
> connector I purchased? If not what connector should I buy to use with the
> M39029/XXXX?
>
>
> It should be fine . . .
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Hesitation |
Let me ask this. Does this happen only when the engine is hot?
If so I'll relate my 2 cents
Ed Clegg
On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 1:59 PM user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> There could be a mechanical problem with the engine or starter. If those
> have been ruled out, next check for voltage drops in the starter circuit.
> It is much easier to find bad connections when the circuit is under heavy
> load. Disconnect the starter motor and connect a heavy load in its place.
> While current is flowing, measure the voltage between the battery positive
> post and the positive terminal at the starter end. And then measure
> voltage between the battery negative post and starter ground.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467028#467028
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Hesitation |
"Let me ask this. Does this happen only when the engine is hot?
If so I'll relate my 2 cents"
No, the last start, a couple of days ago, was the first for a couple of months
and there was a long "pause". Last year this pause was happening with both a hot
and a cold engine,
David
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467086#467086
Message 25
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Although I have this engine time on my GRT EIS I would like to have this alr
eady installed additional system on my RV-6A which has a zero time rebuilt L
ycoming.
I have a master key and start button which I believe should be spliced into t
he starter switch from the lamp, which being red when engine isn't running w
ill also serve as a reminder to shut it off after the flight.
Then I should wire from the Hobbs meter to my fuse panel. Could someone ple
ase confirm for my pace of mind?
Thanks,
RonBurnett
May you have the Lord's blessings today!
Sent from my iPad
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