Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:57 AM - Re: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 10:57 AM - Re: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!? (William Hunter)
3. 12:26 PM - Re: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!? (Charlie England)
4. 12:47 PM - Re: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!? (Robert McCallum)
5. 05:51 PM - Re: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!? (William Hunter)
6. 10:45 PM - Re: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!? (William Hunter)
7. 10:52 PM - Re: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!? (William Hunter)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation |
For A Plunger Switch?!?!?
>
>So=85getting back to the switch=85it needs to have the following
attributes:
>
>-Plunger type switch that has a very light
>spring that forces the switch plunger to the extended position.
>-When the switch is pushed in the contacts need
>to be open and when the switch is allowed to
>extend the contacts need to close so my indicator light will illuminate.
>-The threaded shaft of the switch should be about =BD inch long.
>-Threaded shaft is made of plastic
>
>My goal is to install the switch from the
>outside so that the switch body is on the
>outside of the box and only the plunger assembly
>is inserted into the sidewall mounting hole just
>long enough so that the switch will be pressed
>in when the flapper valve is closed. If the
>threaded shaft is plastic then I can use epoxy
>to glue the switch threads into the sidewall of
>the air box and therefore it would not need a
>nut on the inside wall of the air box so there
>would be no worry about the nut falling into the engine intake.
>
>Here is a picture of a switch that could work=85I
>would not use the nuts and I would also prefer
>that the body and the plunger were made
>of plastic and I have no way of knowing how strong the spring is.
Emacs!
The switch you have illustrated is a Honeywell product used extensively
in aviation for harsh environment limit switching . . . like landing
gear.
When disassembled, you find two basic switches inside a weathertight
housing. There is a spring in the threaded barrel that gives this
switch a VERY high operating force. Then, you will find that
this product is expensive . . . in fact, I don't think they are
catalog items. Examples I encountered at Raytheon/Beech were
custom built to our specs for stroke, over-travel, force,
and style of basic switch.
If you want to go with a 'hard' switch, check out the
range of options offered here:
http://tinyurl.com/y7lnmvpu
There are products adaptable to your task but you'll have
to figure out mounting and actuator configurations.
Charlie's suggestion for non-contact sensing is excellent
too. A button magnet or metalic target bonded to the door
and sensed by some form of proximity device. Some
examples:
http://tinyurl.com/yd3vzncr
The later options are essentially zero-actuation-force,
and usually very robust in crappy environments.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation |
For A Plunger Switch?!?!?
THANKS for the feedback.
A plastic plunger magnetic sensing switch would be great. The
fiberglass
air box base and the flapper valve each have a magnet installed so when
the
flapper is moved away from the air box base there will still be a magnet
located directly next to the proximity switch so do you supposed that
would
affect the switch action?
Whoa=85Digikey sure has a bunch of switches. I tried to use the filter
function however I did not know what to select for the various filters.
If I have to stick with a =93hard=94 snap action switch I assume the one
I need
will be a SP ST NC switch? The NC part I am unsure of=85If the flapper
door
is closed and pushing down on the plunger switch then I want the
contacts to
be open and then when the door opens the plunger will be extended so I
want
the contacts to be closed so I believe this is called a NC switch.
Should I
select =93MOM-OFF=94 or =93ON MOM=94in the filter?
The Judco Manufacturing Inc. 40-4819-00 switch looks like it will work
https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Judco%20PDFs/40-4819-00.pdf
How can one (me) determine how strong the spring is?
..
THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP!!!
Bill Hunter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Friday, June 9, 2017 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A
Recommendation
For A Plunger Switch?!?!?
So=85getting back to the switch=85it needs to have the following
attributes:
-Plunger type switch that has a very light spring that forces the switch
plunger to the extended position.
-When the switch is pushed in the contacts need to be open and when the
switch is allowed to extend the contacts need to close so my indicator
light
will illuminate.
-The threaded shaft of the switch should be about =BD inch long.
-Threaded shaft is made of plastic
My goal is to install the switch from the outside so that the switch
body is
on the outside of the box and only the plunger assembly is inserted into
the
sidewall mounting hole just long enough so that the switch will be
pressed
in when the flapper valve is closed. If the threaded shaft is plastic
then
I can use epoxy to glue the switch threads into the sidewall of the air
box
and therefore it would not need a nut on the inside wall of the air box
so
there would be no worry about the nut falling into the engine intake.
Here is a picture of a switch that could work=85I would not use the nuts
and I
would also prefer that the body and the plunger were made of plastic
and I
have no way of knowing how strong the spring is.
The switch you have illustrated is a Honeywell product used
extensively
in aviation for harsh environment limit switching . . . like landing
gear.
When disassembled, you find two basic switches inside a weathertight
housing. There is a spring in the threaded barrel that gives this
switch a VERY high operating force. Then, you will find that
this product is expensive . . . in fact, I don't think they are
catalog items. Examples I encountered at Raytheon/Beech were
custom built to our specs for stroke, over-travel, force,
and style of basic switch.
If you want to go with a 'hard' switch, check out the
range of options offered here:
http://tinyurl.com/y7lnmvpu
There are products adaptable to your task but you'll have
to figure out mounting and actuator configurations.
Charlie's suggestion for non-contact sensing is excellent
too. A button magnet or metalic target bonded to the door
and sensed by some form of proximity device. Some
examples:
http://tinyurl.com/yd3vzncr
The later options are essentially zero-actuation-force,
and usually very robust in crappy environments.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For |
A Plunger Switch?!?!?
Burglar alarm switches typically activate with around a 1/2" gap, max. Just
order a SPDT surface mount window contact, glue the magnet to the door and
mount the switch on the perimeter of the opening. The SPDT allows you to
wire NO or NC; your choice.
https://www.elvessupply.com/Honeywell-Sensors-7939-2WH-Surface-Mount-Contac
t-Spdt-Wh_p_337005.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwjunJBRDzl6iCpoKS4G0SJACJAx-VG9UBele
MqS-_LAKOkZ6xb8EjYY_HWPEU9mHkZIxe6BoC6BPw_wcB
Something like that will many times more reliable than any snap action
switch you can purchase. The last time I did burg alarm install work, my
supplier offered a 5 for 1 replacement warranty against *anything*
including lightning damage. The 'contacts' are in an inert gas filled,
sealed glass chamber, and the mounting is more compact than any plunger
you're likely to find. Google 'reed switch' to see what's inside.
Just don't try to drive some 5 amp siren through it. :-)
Charlie
On Fri, Jun 9, 2017 at 12:57 PM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com
>
wrote:
>
>
> THANKS for the feedback.
>
>
> A plastic plunger magnetic sensing switch would be great. The fiberglass
> air box base and the flapper valve each have a magnet installed so when t
he
> flapper is moved away from the air box base there will still be a magnet
> located directly next to the proximity switch so do you supposed that wou
ld
> affect the switch action?
>
>
> WhoaDigikey sure has a bunch of switches. I tried to use the fi
lter
> function however I did not know what to select for the various filters.
>
>
> If I have to stick with a =9Chard=9D snap action switch I ass
ume the one I
> need will be a SP ST NC switch? The NC part I am unsure ofIf th
e flapper
> door is closed and pushing down on the plunger switch then I want the
> contacts to be open and then when the door opens the plunger will be
> extended so I want the contacts to be closed so I believe this is called
a
> NC switch. Should I select =9CMOM-OFF=9D or =9CON MOM
=9Din the filter?
>
>
> The Judco Manufacturing Inc. 40-4819-00 switch looks like it will work
> https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Judco%20PDFs/40-4819-00.pdf
>
>
> How can one (me) determine how strong the spring is?
>
>
> ..
>
>
> THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP!!!
>
>
> Bill Hunter
>
>
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert L.
> Nuckolls, III
> *Sent:* Friday, June 9, 2017 7:57 AM
> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A
> Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!?
>
>
> Sogetting back to the switchit needs to have the follow
ing attributes:
>
> -Plunger type switch that has a very light spring that forces the switch
> plunger to the extended position.
> -When the switch is pushed in the contacts need to be open and when the
> switch is allowed to extend the contacts need to close so my indicator
> light will illuminate.
> -The threaded shaft of the switch should be about =C2=BD inch long.
> -Threaded shaft is made of plastic
>
> My goal is to install the switch from the outside so that the switch body
> is on the outside of the box and only the plunger assembly is inserted in
to
> the sidewall mounting hole just long enough so that the switch will be
> pressed in when the flapper valve is closed. If the threaded shaft is
> plastic then I can use epoxy to glue the switch threads into the sidewall
> of the air box and therefore it would not need a nut on the inside wall o
f
> the air box so there would be no worry about the nut falling into the
> engine intake.
>
> Here is a picture of a switch that could workI would not use the
nuts and
> I would also prefer that the body and the plunger were made of plastic a
nd
> I have no way of knowing how strong the spring is.
>
>
> [image: Emacs!]
>
>
> The switch you have illustrated is a Honeywell product used extensively
> in aviation for harsh environment limit switching . . . like landing
> gear.
>
> When disassembled, you find two basic switches inside a weathertight
> housing. There is a spring in the threaded barrel that gives this
> switch a VERY high operating force. Then, you will find that
> this product is expensive . . . in fact, I don't think they are
> catalog items. Examples I encountered at Raytheon/Beech were
> custom built to our specs for stroke, over-travel, force,
> and style of basic switch.
>
> If you want to go with a 'hard' switch, check out the
> range of options offered here:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/y7lnmvpu
>
> There are products adaptable to your task but you'll have
> to figure out mounting and actuator configurations.
>
> Charlie's suggestion for non-contact sensing is excellent
> too. A button magnet or metalic target bonded to the door
> and sensed by some form of proximity device. Some
> examples:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/yd3vzncr
>
> The later options are essentially zero-actuation-force,
> and usually very robust in crappy environments.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For |
A Plunger Switch?!?!?
William;
Why the insistence on a "plunger" style where you need to be concerned with
spring pressure and possibly weather resistance?? Why not take the earlier
replies suggestion of an inductive "PROXIMITY" switch which detects the
closeness of a piece or ferrous metal and is generally sealed against all
external environmental influence? (NOT switched by a magnet as someone
suggested. Switches responding to magnets are usually "reed" switches) You
then
don't need to worry about how strong the "spring" is as there isn't one. Wh
en
the little piece of steel you embed in your fiberglass door is adjacent to
the
switch the switch is either "open" or "closed" depending upon whether you s
elect
a NO or NC switch. "Normal" by the way refers to the switches condition sit
ting
in space without activation, the switch "switches" to the opposite state wh
en
the ferrous target is close. Would make choice and installation a whole lot
simpler. Just bring your door adjacent to the switch and, Bingo, it switche
s.
Alternatively move your door away from the switch and it switches the other
way.
No contact, moving parts, or forces involved.
Bob McC
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com>
> Date: June 9, 2017 at 1:57 PM
>
>
>
>
> THANKS for the feedback.
>
>
>
> A plastic plunger magnetic sensing switch would be great. The fibergl
ass
> air box base and the flapper valve each have a magnet installed so when t
he
> flapper is moved away from the air box base there will still be a magnet
> located directly next to the proximity switch so do you supposed that wou
ld
> affect the switch action?
>
>
>
> WhoaDigikey sure has a bunch of switches. I tried to use the
filter
> function however I did not know what to select for the various filters.
>
>
>
> If I have to stick with a =9Chard=9D snap action switch I
assume the one I
> need will be a SP ST NC switch? The NC part I am unsure ofIf the
flapper door
> is closed and pushing down on the plunger switch then I want the contacts
to
> be open and then when the door opens the plunger will be extended so I wa
nt
> the contacts to be closed so I believe this is called a NC switch. Should
I
> select =9CMOM-OFF=9D or =9CON MOM=9Din the filter
?
>
>
>
> The Judco Manufacturing Inc. 40-4819-00 switch looks like it will wor
k
> https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Judco%20PDFs/40-4819-00.pdf
>
>
>
> How can one (me) determine how strong the spring is?
>
>
>
> ..
>
>
>
> THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP!!!
>
>
>
> Bill Hunter
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
L.
> Nuckolls, III
> Sent: Friday, June 9, 2017 7:57 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A
> Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!?
>
>
>
> > >
> >
> > Sogetting back to the switchit needs to have
the following
> > attributes:
> >
> > -Plunger type switch that has a very light spring that forces t
he
> > switch plunger to the extended position.
> > -When the switch is pushed in the contacts need to be open and
when
> > the switch is allowed to extend the contacts need to close so my indica
tor
> > light will illuminate.
> > -The threaded shaft of the switch should be about 1=81=842 i
nch long.
> > -Threaded shaft is made of plastic
> >
> > My goal is to install the switch from the outside so that the s
witch
> > body is on the outside of the box and only the plunger assembly is inse
rted
> > into the sidewall mounting hole just long enough so that the switch wil
l be
> > pressed in when the flapper valve is closed. If the threaded shaft is
> > plastic then I can use epoxy to glue the switch threads into the sidewa
ll of
> > the air box and therefore it would not need a nut on the inside wall of
the
> > air box so there would be no worry about the nut falling into the engin
e
> > intake.
> >
> > Here is a picture of a switch that could workI would n
ot use the
> > nuts and I would also prefer that the body and the plunger were made of
> > plastic and I have no way of knowing how strong the spring is.
> >
> > >
>
>
>
>
> The switch you have illustrated is a Honeywell product used extensi
vely
> in aviation for harsh environment limit switching . . . like landin
g
> gear.
>
> When disassembled, you find two basic switches inside a weathertigh
t
> housing. There is a spring in the threaded barrel that gives this
> switch a VERY high operating force. Then, you will find that
> this product is expensive . . . in fact, I don't think they are
> catalog items. Examples I encountered at Raytheon/Beech were
> custom built to our specs for stroke, over-travel, force,
> and style of basic switch.
>
> If you want to go with a 'hard' switch, check out the
> range of options offered here:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/y7lnmvpu
>
> There are products adaptable to your task but you'll have
> to figure out mounting and actuator configurations.
>
> Charlie's suggestion for non-contact sensing is excellent
> too. A button magnet or metalic target bonded to the door
> and sensed by some form of proximity device. Some
> examples:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/yd3vzncr
>
> The later options are essentially zero-actuation-force,
> and usually very robust in crappy environments.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For |
A Plunger Switch?!?!?
> Why the insistence on a "plunger" style where you need to be concerned
with spring pressure and possibly weather resistance?? Why not take the
earlier replies suggestion of an inductive "PROXIMITY" switch which
detects the closeness of a piece or ferrous metal and is generally
sealed against all external environmental influence? (NOT switched by a
magnet as someone suggested. Switches responding to magnets are usually
"reed" switches)
I am not insisting on a plunger switchthe proximity switch
sounds like a superior idealess moving parts to fall into the
engine if the switch falls apart.
If I install a proximity switch directly next to a magnet (meaning side
by side) will it work? In other wordsmy flapper door has a
magnet and so does the air box structure and the two magnets pulling
toward each other is mostly what keeps the flapper door closed (these
are really strong magnets). The only practical place to install a
switch is side by side with the magnet that is installed in the air box
structure so therefore the proximity switch will only be 1 inch away
from the magnet installed in the structure of the air boxyes
the magnet that is connected to the flapper door will move away with the
flapper door and so will the ferrous metal =9Ctarget=9D that
is installed next to the magnet in the flapper door however the
proximity switch is still just one inch away from the magnet in the
structure.
Here is a switch that might work:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SENSOR-PLASTIC-BARREL-M8-NO-Proximity-Sensors-S
N36555-/381449156652?hash=item58d024382c:g:yKwAAOSwl9BWLjvd
<http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SENSOR-PLASTIC-BARREL-M8-NO-Proximity-Sensors-
SN36555-/381449156652?hash=item58d024382c:g:yKwAAOSwl9BWLjvd&_trksid=
p2349526.m3874.l7936> &_trksid=p2349526.m3874.l7936
It says =9CNO=9D however would I not need a
=9CNC=9D switch so that when the target is close to the
proximity sensor the contacts are open and then when the target moves
away the from the sensor (the Normal state of the sensor) the contacts
will close?
The window sensors are a great idea however I do not have enough room.
AgainI GREATLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP!!!
..
Cheers!!!
Bill Hunter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert McCallum
Sent: Friday, June 9, 2017 12:46 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A
Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!?
William;
Why the insistence on a "plunger" style where you need to be concerned
with spring pressure and possibly weather resistance?? Why not take the
earlier replies suggestion of an inductive "PROXIMITY" switch which
detects the closeness of a piece or ferrous metal and is generally
sealed against all external environmental influence? (NOT switched by a
magnet as someone suggested. Switches responding to magnets are usually
"reed" switches) You then don't need to worry about how strong the
"spring" is as there isn't one. When the little piece of steel you embed
in your fiberglass door is adjacent to the switch the switch is either
"open" or "closed" depending upon whether you select a NO or NC switch.
"Normal" by the way refers to the switches condition sitting in space
without activation, the switch "switches" to the opposite state when the
ferrous target is close. Would make choice and installation a whole lot
simpler. Just bring your door adjacent to the switch and, Bingo, it
switches. Alternatively move your door away from the switch and it
switches the other way. No contact, moving parts, or forces involved.
Bob McC
---------- Original Message ----------
From: William Hunter <billhuntersemail@gmail.com
<mailto:billhuntersemail@gmail.com> >
THANKS for the feedback.
A plastic plunger magnetic sensing switch would be great. The fiberglass
air box base and the flapper valve each have a magnet installed so when
the flapper is moved away from the air box base there will still be a
magnet located directly next to the proximity switch so do you supposed
that would affect the switch action?
WhoaDigikey sure has a bunch of switches. I tried to use the
filter function however I did not know what to select for the various
filters.
If I have to stick with a =9Chard=9D snap action switch I
assume the one I need will be a SP ST NC switch? The NC part I am unsure
ofIf the flapper door is closed and pushing down on the plunger
switch then I want the contacts to be open and then when the door opens
the plunger will be extended so I want the contacts to be closed so I
believe this is called a NC switch. Should I select
=9CMOM-OFF=9D or =9CON MOM=9Din the filter?
The Judco Manufacturing Inc. 40-4819-00 switch looks like it will work
https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Judco%20PDFs/40-4819-00.pdf
How can one (me) determine how strong the spring is?
..
THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP!!!
Bill Hunter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Friday, June 9, 2017 7:57 AM
<mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A
Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!?
Sogetting back to the switchit needs to have the
following attributes:
-Plunger type switch that has a very light spring that forces the switch
plunger to the extended position.
-When the switch is pushed in the contacts need to be open and when the
switch is allowed to extend the contacts need to close so my indicator
light will illuminate.
-The threaded shaft of the switch should be about 1=81=842 inch long.
-Threaded shaft is made of plastic
My goal is to install the switch from the outside so that the switch
body is on the outside of the box and only the plunger assembly is
inserted into the sidewall mounting hole just long enough so that the
switch will be pressed in when the flapper valve is closed. If the
threaded shaft is plastic then I can use epoxy to glue the switch
threads into the sidewall of the air box and therefore it would not need
a nut on the inside wall of the air box so there would be no worry about
the nut falling into the engine intake.
Here is a picture of a switch that could workI would not use
the nuts and I would also prefer that the body and the plunger were made
of plastic and I have no way of knowing how strong the spring is.
The switch you have illustrated is a Honeywell product used
extensively
in aviation for harsh environment limit switching . . . like landing
gear.
When disassembled, you find two basic switches inside a weathertight
housing. There is a spring in the threaded barrel that gives this
switch a VERY high operating force. Then, you will find that
this product is expensive . . . in fact, I don't think they are
catalog items. Examples I encountered at Raytheon/Beech were
custom built to our specs for stroke, over-travel, force,
and style of basic switch.
If you want to go with a 'hard' switch, check out the
range of options offered here:
http://tinyurl.com/y7lnmvpu
There are products adaptable to your task but you'll have
to figure out mounting and actuator configurations.
Charlie's suggestion for non-contact sensing is excellent
too. A button magnet or metalic target bonded to the door
and sensed by some form of proximity device. Some
examples:
http://tinyurl.com/yd3vzncr
The later options are essentially zero-actuation-force,
and usually very robust in crappy environments.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For |
A Plunger Switch?!?!?
How about a =9CCapacitance Proximity Switch=9D
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Capacitance-Proximity-Sensor-Switch/dp/B005
42U3M4/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8
<https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Capacitance-Proximity-Sensor-Switch/dp/B00
542U3M4/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1497072880&sr=8-12&keywords=pro
ximity+switch> &qid=1497072880&sr=8-12&keywords=proximity+switch
If I understand this correctlyI would need to provide a 12 VDC
power wire, a ground, and then the third wire would be the 12VDC signal
wire to my EFIS input.
It seems this gizmo will sense plastic being close of if it is moved
away.
I understand the concept of Normally Open with respect to a regular old
push button switchwhen the button is not pushed then that is
the =9Cnormal=9D condition (switch out in space with nothing
touching it) however with respect to proximity switches is the normal
condition when the target is close or away?
..
Cheers!!!
Bill Hunter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Charlie England
Sent: Friday, June 9, 2017 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A
Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!?
Burglar alarm switches typically activate with around a 1/2" gap, max.
Just order a SPDT surface mount window contact, glue the magnet to the
door and mount the switch on the perimeter of the opening. The SPDT
allows you to wire NO or NC; your choice.
https://www.elvessupply.com/Honeywell-Sensors-7939-2WH-Surface-Mount-Cont
act-Spdt-Wh_p_337005.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwjunJBRDzl6iCpoKS4G0SJACJAx-VG9U
BeleMqS-_LAKOkZ6xb8EjYY_HWPEU9mHkZIxe6BoC6BPw_wcB
Something like that will many times more reliable than any snap action
switch you can purchase. The last time I did burg alarm install work, my
supplier offered a 5 for 1 replacement warranty against *anything*
including lightning damage. The 'contacts' are in an inert gas filled,
sealed glass chamber, and the mounting is more compact than any plunger
you're likely to find. Google 'reed switch' to see what's inside.
Just don't try to drive some 5 amp siren through it. :-)
Charlie
On Fri, Jun 9, 2017 at 12:57 PM, William Hunter
<billhuntersemail@gmail.com <mailto:billhuntersemail@gmail.com> > wrote:
THANKS for the feedback.
A plastic plunger magnetic sensing switch would be great. The
fiberglass air box base and the flapper valve each have a magnet
installed so when the flapper is moved away from the air box base there
will still be a magnet located directly next to the proximity switch so
do you supposed that would affect the switch action?
WhoaDigikey sure has a bunch of switches. I tried to use the
filter function however I did not know what to select for the various
filters.
If I have to stick with a =9Chard=9D snap action switch I
assume the one I need will be a SP ST NC switch? The NC part I am
unsure ofIf the flapper door is closed and pushing down on the
plunger switch then I want the contacts to be open and then when the
door opens the plunger will be extended so I want the contacts to be
closed so I believe this is called a NC switch. Should I select
=9CMOM-OFF=9D or =9CON MOM=9Din the filter?
The Judco Manufacturing Inc. 40-4819-00 switch looks like it will work
https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Judco%20PDFs/40-4819-00.pdf
How can one (me) determine how strong the spring is?
..
THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP!!!
Bill Hunter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> ] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Friday, June 9, 2017 7:57 AM
<mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A
Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!?
Sogetting back to the switchit needs to have the
following attributes:
-Plunger type switch that has a very light spring that forces the switch
plunger to the extended position.
-When the switch is pushed in the contacts need to be open and when the
switch is allowed to extend the contacts need to close so my indicator
light will illuminate.
-The threaded shaft of the switch should be about =C2=BD inch long.
-Threaded shaft is made of plastic
My goal is to install the switch from the outside so that the switch
body is on the outside of the box and only the plunger assembly is
inserted into the sidewall mounting hole just long enough so that the
switch will be pressed in when the flapper valve is closed. If the
threaded shaft is plastic then I can use epoxy to glue the switch
threads into the sidewall of the air box and therefore it would not need
a nut on the inside wall of the air box so there would be no worry about
the nut falling into the engine intake.
Here is a picture of a switch that could workI would not use
the nuts and I would also prefer that the body and the plunger were made
of plastic and I have no way of knowing how strong the spring is.
The switch you have illustrated is a Honeywell product used
extensively
in aviation for harsh environment limit switching . . . like landing
gear.
When disassembled, you find two basic switches inside a weathertight
housing. There is a spring in the threaded barrel that gives this
switch a VERY high operating force. Then, you will find that
this product is expensive . . . in fact, I don't think they are
catalog items. Examples I encountered at Raytheon/Beech were
custom built to our specs for stroke, over-travel, force,
and style of basic switch.
If you want to go with a 'hard' switch, check out the
range of options offered here:
http://tinyurl.com/y7lnmvpu
There are products adaptable to your task but you'll have
to figure out mounting and actuator configurations.
Charlie's suggestion for non-contact sensing is excellent
too. A button magnet or metalic target bonded to the door
and sensed by some form of proximity device. Some
examples:
http://tinyurl.com/yd3vzncr
The later options are essentially zero-actuation-force,
and usually very robust in crappy environments.
Bob . . .
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| Subject: | Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For |
A Plunger Switch?!?!?
YouTube answered my NC verses NO question:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PtNGlj0u7g
..
Cheers!!!
Bill Hunter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Charlie England
Sent: Friday, June 9, 2017 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A
Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!?
Burglar alarm switches typically activate with around a 1/2" gap, max.
Just order a SPDT surface mount window contact, glue the magnet to the
door and mount the switch on the perimeter of the opening. The SPDT
allows you to wire NO or NC; your choice.
https://www.elvessupply.com/Honeywell-Sensors-7939-2WH-Surface-Mount-Cont
act-Spdt-Wh_p_337005.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwjunJBRDzl6iCpoKS4G0SJACJAx-VG9U
BeleMqS-_LAKOkZ6xb8EjYY_HWPEU9mHkZIxe6BoC6BPw_wcB
Something like that will many times more reliable than any snap action
switch you can purchase. The last time I did burg alarm install work, my
supplier offered a 5 for 1 replacement warranty against *anything*
including lightning damage. The 'contacts' are in an inert gas filled,
sealed glass chamber, and the mounting is more compact than any plunger
you're likely to find. Google 'reed switch' to see what's inside.
Just don't try to drive some 5 amp siren through it. :-)
Charlie
On Fri, Jun 9, 2017 at 12:57 PM, William Hunter
<billhuntersemail@gmail.com <mailto:billhuntersemail@gmail.com> > wrote:
THANKS for the feedback.
A plastic plunger magnetic sensing switch would be great. The
fiberglass air box base and the flapper valve each have a magnet
installed so when the flapper is moved away from the air box base there
will still be a magnet located directly next to the proximity switch so
do you supposed that would affect the switch action?
WhoaDigikey sure has a bunch of switches. I tried to use the
filter function however I did not know what to select for the various
filters.
If I have to stick with a =9Chard=9D snap action switch I
assume the one I need will be a SP ST NC switch? The NC part I am
unsure ofIf the flapper door is closed and pushing down on the
plunger switch then I want the contacts to be open and then when the
door opens the plunger will be extended so I want the contacts to be
closed so I believe this is called a NC switch. Should I select
=9CMOM-OFF=9D or =9CON MOM=9Din the filter?
The Judco Manufacturing Inc. 40-4819-00 switch looks like it will work
https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Judco%20PDFs/40-4819-00.pdf
How can one (me) determine how strong the spring is?
..
THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP!!!
Bill Hunter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> ] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Friday, June 9, 2017 7:57 AM
<mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A
Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!?
Sogetting back to the switchit needs to have the
following attributes:
-Plunger type switch that has a very light spring that forces the switch
plunger to the extended position.
-When the switch is pushed in the contacts need to be open and when the
switch is allowed to extend the contacts need to close so my indicator
light will illuminate.
-The threaded shaft of the switch should be about =C2=BD inch long.
-Threaded shaft is made of plastic
My goal is to install the switch from the outside so that the switch
body is on the outside of the box and only the plunger assembly is
inserted into the sidewall mounting hole just long enough so that the
switch will be pressed in when the flapper valve is closed. If the
threaded shaft is plastic then I can use epoxy to glue the switch
threads into the sidewall of the air box and therefore it would not need
a nut on the inside wall of the air box so there would be no worry about
the nut falling into the engine intake.
Here is a picture of a switch that could workI would not use
the nuts and I would also prefer that the body and the plunger were made
of plastic and I have no way of knowing how strong the spring is.
The switch you have illustrated is a Honeywell product used
extensively
in aviation for harsh environment limit switching . . . like landing
gear.
When disassembled, you find two basic switches inside a weathertight
housing. There is a spring in the threaded barrel that gives this
switch a VERY high operating force. Then, you will find that
this product is expensive . . . in fact, I don't think they are
catalog items. Examples I encountered at Raytheon/Beech were
custom built to our specs for stroke, over-travel, force,
and style of basic switch.
If you want to go with a 'hard' switch, check out the
range of options offered here:
http://tinyurl.com/y7lnmvpu
There are products adaptable to your task but you'll have
to figure out mounting and actuator configurations.
Charlie's suggestion for non-contact sensing is excellent
too. A button magnet or metalic target bonded to the door
and sensed by some form of proximity device. Some
examples:
http://tinyurl.com/yd3vzncr
The later options are essentially zero-actuation-force,
and usually very robust in crappy environments.
Bob . . .
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