---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 08/02/17: 17 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:12 AM - Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? (user9253) 2. 06:58 AM - Re: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? (William Hunter) 3. 07:16 AM - Sharing thermocouple inputs? (William Hunter) 4. 08:26 AM - Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? (user9253) 5. 09:03 AM - Re: Sharing thermocouple inputs? (Charlie England) 6. 09:40 AM - Re: Sharing thermocouple inputs? (William Hunter) 7. 10:44 AM - Re: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? (William Hunter) 8. 01:08 PM - Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? (user9253) 9. 01:55 PM - Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? (user9253) 10. 02:03 PM - Re: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? (William Hunter) 11. 03:40 PM - Re: Sharing thermocouple inputs? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 12. 04:07 PM - Re: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? (Charlie England) 13. 04:21 PM - Re: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? (William Hunter) 14. 07:09 PM - Starter Solenoid Diode (William Hunter) 15. 07:11 PM - Re: Sharing thermocouple inputs? (William Hunter) 16. 07:34 PM - Re: Starter Solenoid Diode (user9253) 17. 08:02 PM - Re: Starter Solenoid Diode (Charlie England) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:12:41 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? From: "user9253" Bill, the Dynon EMS has 13 general purpose inputs. Are you sure that every one of them is already being used? -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471426#471426 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:58:02 AM PST US From: William Hunter Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? > the Dynon EMS has 13 general purpose inputs. Are you sure that every one of them is already being used? yep... every one is used... funny you should ask because I was going to post another question about thermocouples... I'll ask that on another thread Thanks, Bill Hunter On Aug 2, 2017 5:16 AM, "user9253" wrote: > > Bill, the Dynon EMS has 13 general purpose inputs. Are you sure that > every one of them is already being used? > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471426#471426 > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:16:38 AM PST US From: William Hunter Subject: AeroElectric-List: Sharing thermocouple inputs? On a different subject this week but with the same theme of "running out of EMS pins" , the question I have is can thermocouple wires be run through a switch and then routed to the EMS? I have only one thermocouple input left in my Dynon EMS however I still have two locations that I want to monitor temperature (one on a full-time basis and the other on a once in a great while basis) . Specifically I have a thermocouple probe mounted in my engine compartment that I want to use as a engine fire sensor and I have programed the EMS to change colors and give an audio warning when the temperature exceeds 400=C2 =B0 f. The second area that I would like to monitor on a once-in-a-while basis is the temperature of my intake air after it has left the intercooler. I have spliced those two pairs of wires and run one pair to the top two screws of a Honeywell double pole double throw switch and the second pair of wires I ran to the bottom two screws of that switch. The middle two screws of the switch are wired to the EMS pins... the thinking that I can simply position the switch in the direction of the sensor I want to monitor. The problem is that the EMS indication is the same temperature regardless of where the switch is positioned. In other words I could heat up one probe with my heat gun and regardless of where the switch is positioned I get the same reading on the EMS screen regardless of where I place the switch. I would have thought that if I heat up the cowling temperature probe and I watch the indication on the screen ride up to 250 degrees Fahrenheit then if I move the switch to the intake temperature probe then the indication would drop back down to ambient temperature however no matter where the switch is placed the indication on the screen will only indicate the temperature of hottest probe... never the coldest. Is it just unrealistic to be able to expect to Route thermocouple wires through a switch and be able to select the indication? THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR ADVICE!!! Bill Hunter ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:26:00 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? From: "user9253" Bill, how about connecting the output of the magnetic sensor to a panel mounted LED light? A 150 ohm series resistor will limit current from a 5 volt source. I glued an LED into a hole drilled into the instrument panel. http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronics/LED-Lighting/LED-Emitters/Standard-LEDs-Through-Hole/_/N-b1bc8Zscv7?P=1z0yt1mZ1yzxspgZ1yztlcbZ1yzrt8pZ1yztnraZ1yzldgwZ1yztlq8Z1ywu49aZ1yzuk8tZ1yztj3sZ1yztm0dZ1yuo70f&Ns=Package+%2f+Case%7c1 -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471435#471435 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:03:02 AM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Sharing thermocouple inputs? On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 9:15 AM, William Hunter wrote: > On a different subject this week but with the same theme of "running out > of EMS pins" , the question I have is can thermocouple wires be run throu gh > a switch and then routed to the EMS? > > I have only one thermocouple input left in my Dynon EMS however I still > have two locations that I want to monitor temperature (one on a full-time > basis and the other on a once in a great while basis) . > > Specifically I have a thermocouple probe mounted in my engine compartment > that I want to use as a engine fire sensor and I have programed the EMS t o > change colors and give an audio warning when the temperature exceeds 400 =C2=B0 > f. > > The second area that I would like to monitor on a once-in-a-while basis i s > the temperature of my intake air after it has left the intercooler. > > I have spliced those two pairs of wires and run one pair to the top two > screws of a Honeywell double pole double throw switch and the second pair > of wires I ran to the bottom two screws of that switch. The middle two > screws of the switch are wired to the EMS pins... the thinking that I can > simply position the switch in the direction of the sensor I want to > monitor. > > The problem is that the EMS indication is the same temperature regardless > of where the switch is positioned. In other words I could heat up one pro be > with my heat gun and regardless of where the switch is positioned I get t he > same reading on the EMS screen regardless of where I place the switch. > > I would have thought that if I heat up the cowling temperature probe and I > watch the indication on the screen ride up to 250 degrees Fahrenheit then > if I move the switch to the intake temperature probe then the indication > would drop back down to ambient temperature however no matter where the > switch is placed the indication on the screen will only indicate the > temperature of hottest probe... never the coldest. > > Is it just unrealistic to be able to expect to Route thermocouple wires > through a switch and be able to select the indication? > > THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR ADVICE!!! > > Bill Hunter > Bill, That's long been a way to monitor 2 (or more) different thermocouples. Conventional wisdom is that as long as you switch *both wires*, there should be minimal error between the two (or more) sensors. The idea is that by switching both leads, the junctions induce equal and opposite errors in the two wires, cancelling the error. Charlie ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:40:02 AM PST US From: "William Hunter" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Sharing thermocouple inputs? !!!IT WORKS!!! It seems I had on pair mislabeled and polarity connected up backwards. Using alligator clips and jumper wires and a couple of bad words allowed me to figure out my error. Now the correct pair and polarity go to the bottom pair of screws and the other (correct) pair and polarity go to the top pair of screws and out from the middle pair of screws come a couple of wires that get routed to the EMS and now I have thermocouple bliss!!! .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Wednesday, August 2, 2017 9:01 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Sharing thermocouple inputs? On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 9:15 AM, William Hunter > wrote: On a different subject this week but with the same theme of "running out of EMS pins" , the question I have is can thermocouple wires be run through a switch and then routed to the EMS? I have only one thermocouple input left in my Dynon EMS however I still have two locations that I want to monitor temperature (one on a full-time basis and the other on a once in a great while basis) . Specifically I have a thermocouple probe mounted in my engine compartment that I want to use as a engine fire sensor and I have programed the EMS to change colors and give an audio warning when the temperature exceeds 400=C2=B0 f. The second area that I would like to monitor on a once-in-a-while basis is the temperature of my intake air after it has left the intercooler. I have spliced those two pairs of wires and run one pair to the top two screws of a Honeywell double pole double throw switch and the second pair of wires I ran to the bottom two screws of that switch. The middle two screws of the switch are wired to the EMS pins... the thinking that I can simply position the switch in the direction of the sensor I want to monitor. The problem is that the EMS indication is the same temperature regardless of where the switch is positioned. In other words I could heat up one probe with my heat gun and regardless of where the switch is positioned I get the same reading on the EMS screen regardless of where I place the switch. I would have thought that if I heat up the cowling temperature probe and I watch the indication on the screen ride up to 250 degrees Fahrenheit then if I move the switch to the intake temperature probe then the indication would drop back down to ambient temperature however no matter where the switch is placed the indication on the screen will only indicate the temperature of hottest probe... never the coldest. Is it just unrealistic to be able to expect to Route thermocouple wires through a switch and be able to select the indication? THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR ADVICE!!! Bill Hunter Bill, That's long been a way to monitor 2 (or more) different thermocouples. Conventional wisdom is that as long as you switch *both wires*, there should be minimal error between the two (or more) sensors. The idea is that by switching both leads, the junctions induce equal and opposite errors in the two wires, cancelling the error. Charlie ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:44:56 AM PST US From: "William Hunter" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? > how about connecting the output of the magnetic sensor to a panel mounted LED light? Great idea Joe. I thought of that as well except that I paid big bucks for all of this fancy EFIS stuff I and now addicted to all of the cool colors and audio alerts. Dang...back in the day a guy cold fly all around the country and all he needed was an oil pressure gauge, a sectional chart, and a wrist watch...now with all this fancy stuff he "needs" more sensors and widgets (but no sectional or watch)!!! Anyhoo...Can you PLEASE take a look at this sensor and help me determine if it will work? The MP200702 advertises it is a SPST-NC and it is only two wires (attached data sheet). Since this is a two wire switch I can dispense with the 5 VDC power wire and wire it up so that one wire goes to the EMS pin and the other wire is connected directly to ground. I just need some "encouragement" that I picked the correct switch this time because I just I got burned the last time by the wording of the catalog... I want it to be OPEN when the magnet is close and CLOSED when the magnet is pulled away with the door. .. THANKS AGAIN!!! Bill Hunter -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of user9253 Sent: Wednesday, August 2, 2017 8:25 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? Bill, how about connecting the output of the magnetic sensor to a panel mounted LED light? A 150 ohm series resistor will limit current from a 5 volt source. I glued an LED into a hole drilled into the instrument panel. http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronics/LED-Lighting/LED-Emitters/Standard-LED s-Through-Hole/_/N-b1bc8Zscv7?P=1z0yt1mZ1yzxspgZ1yztlcbZ1yzrt8pZ1yztnraZ1yzl dgwZ1yztlq8Z1ywu49aZ1yzuk8tZ1yztj3sZ1yztm0dZ1yuo70f&Ns=Package+%2f+Case%7c1 -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471435#471435 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 01:08:05 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? From: "user9253" Bill, it looks like your reasoning is correct. But why take a chance? Buy part number MP200703 with form "C" contacts. Then if the logic is wrong, just interchange the wires. Did you notice that it is says "Reed-based" ? It is probably just a magnetic reed switch enclosed in a cylinder. Another hint is that it uses no power. Not that there is anything wrong with magnetic reed switches, but it might not be as sensitive as the electronic type. Sometimes reed switches can be finicky about the strength and orientation of the magnet. They work best when the longitudinal axis of the magnet is parallel with the longitudinal axis of the switch and they are both side by side. I am not saying that other orientations will not work, just that they work best as described. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471446#471446 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 01:55:07 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? From: "user9253" This hall effect proximity sensor has two outputs. It is pricey though with $20 shipping from England. http://www.newark.com/comus/s1456/hall-effect-proximity-24vdc-cable/dp/49X0853 Allied also sells it, but for a higher price. I am not guarantying it will work for your application. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471447#471447 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 02:03:46 PM PST US From: "William Hunter" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? Joe, you are definitely the guy to ask about this stuff!!! > Buy part number MP200703 with form "C" contacts. Then if the logic is wrong, just interchange the wires. Good advice!!! > Sometimes reed switches can be finicky about the strength and orientation of the magnet. They work best when the longitudinal axis of the magnet is parallel with the longitudinal axis of the switch and they are both side by side. I am not saying that other orientations will not work, just that they work best as described. Hmmm...my plan is to insert the MP200703 into the foam board frame of the air box (imagine a AA battery inserted into a foam board at a 90 degree) and then on the fiberglass flapper valve I plan to bond the magnet (encapsulated in fiberglass) onto the flapper door so that when the flapper door is closed the aspirin pill shape/ sized magnet will be lying flat on top of the AA battery with a thin fiberglass sheet in between. THANKS AGAIN!!! .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of user9253 Sent: Wednesday, August 2, 2017 1:07 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? Bill, it looks like your reasoning is correct. But why take a chance? Buy part number MP200703 with form "C" contacts. Then if the logic is wrong, just interchange the wires. Did you notice that it is says "Reed-based" ? It is probably just a magnetic reed switch enclosed in a cylinder. Another hint is that it uses no power. Not that there is anything wrong with magnetic reed switches, but it might not be as sensitive as the electronic type. Sometimes reed switches can be finicky about the strength and orientation of the magnet. They work best when the longitudinal axis of the magnet is parallel with the longitudinal axis of the switch and they are both side by side. I am not saying that other orientations will not work, just that they work best as described. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471446#471446 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 03:40:46 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Sharing thermocouple inputs? Thermocouples and their management is covered in some detail in the 'Connection starting on Page 14-11. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 04:07:42 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? From: Charlie England I posted several links to form C reed switches the 1st time Bill floated this. Burglar alarm contacts are available that are designed for 'end to end' orientation (recessed window/door contacts); I'm pretty sure I sent some links to those. FWIW, reed switches are some of the most reliable components you'll find; close to the reliability of wire itself. Charlie On 8/2/2017 4:02 PM, William Hunter wrote: > > Joe, you are definitely the guy to ask about this stuff!!! > >> Buy part number MP200703 with form "C" contacts. Then if the logic is > wrong, just interchange the wires. > > Good advice!!! > >> Sometimes reed switches can be finicky about the strength and orientation > of the magnet. They work best when the longitudinal axis of the magnet is > parallel with the longitudinal axis of the switch and they are both side by > side. I am not saying that other orientations will not work, just that they > work best as described. > > Hmmm...my plan is to insert the MP200703 into the foam board frame of the > air box (imagine a AA battery inserted into a foam board at a 90 degree) and > then on the fiberglass flapper valve I plan to bond the magnet (encapsulated > in fiberglass) onto the flapper door so that when the flapper door is closed > the aspirin pill shape/ sized magnet will be lying flat on top of the AA > battery with a thin fiberglass sheet in between. > > THANKS AGAIN!!! > .. > > Cheers!!! > > Bill Hunter > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of user9253 > Sent: Wednesday, August 2, 2017 1:07 PM > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? > > > Bill, it looks like your reasoning is correct. But why take a chance? Buy > part number MP200703 with form "C" contacts. Then if the logic is wrong, > just interchange the wires. > Did you notice that it is says "Reed-based" ? It is probably just a > magnetic reed switch enclosed in a cylinder. Another hint is that it uses > no power. Not that there is anything wrong with magnetic reed switches, but > it might not be as sensitive as the electronic type. Sometimes reed > switches can be finicky about the strength and orientation of the magnet. > They work best when the longitudinal axis of the magnet is parallel with the > longitudinal axis of the switch and they are both side by side. I am not > saying that other orientations will not work, just that they work best as > described. > > -------- > Joe Gores --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 04:21:13 PM PST US From: William Hunter Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? Thanks Charlie, As they say... size matters... and the location I want to use these in my battery box is very limited so therefore the square like window switches would not work however the barrel shape and AA size battery shape would work perfectly in this installation. I found the switch that Joe and I had discussed at Newark 4 less than 20 bucks delivered. I will report back with my results. Thanks again for the advice, Bill Hunter On Aug 2, 2017 4:11 PM, "Charlie England" wrote: > ceengland7@gmail.com> > > I posted several links to form C reed switches the 1st time Bill floated > this. Burglar alarm contacts are available that are designed for 'end to > end' orientation (recessed window/door contacts); I'm pretty sure I sent > some links to those. FWIW, reed switches are some of the most reliable > components you'll find; close to the reliability of wire itself. > > Charlie > > On 8/2/2017 4:02 PM, William Hunter wrote: > >> billhuntersemail@gmail.com> >> >> Joe, you are definitely the guy to ask about this stuff!!! >> >> Buy part number MP200703 with form "C" contacts. Then if the logic is >>> >> wrong, just interchange the wires. >> >> Good advice!!! >> >> Sometimes reed switches can be finicky about the strength and orientation >>> >> of the magnet. They work best when the longitudinal axis of the magnet is >> parallel with the longitudinal axis of the switch and they are both side >> by >> side. I am not saying that other orientations will not work, just that >> they >> work best as described. >> >> Hmmm...my plan is to insert the MP200703 into the foam board frame of the >> air box (imagine a AA battery inserted into a foam board at a 90 degree) >> and >> then on the fiberglass flapper valve I plan to bond the magnet >> (encapsulated >> in fiberglass) onto the flapper door so that when the flapper door is >> closed >> the aspirin pill shape/ sized magnet will be lying flat on top of the AA >> battery with a thin fiberglass sheet in between. >> >> THANKS AGAIN!!! >> .. >> >> Cheers!!! >> >> Bill Hunter >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of >> user9253 >> Sent: Wednesday, August 2, 2017 1:07 PM >> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Do I need a Pull Up resistor? >> >> >> Bill, it looks like your reasoning is correct. But why take a chance? >> Buy >> part number MP200703 with form "C" contacts. Then if the logic is wrong, >> just interchange the wires. >> Did you notice that it is says "Reed-based" ? It is probably just a >> magnetic reed switch enclosed in a cylinder. Another hint is that it uses >> no power. Not that there is anything wrong with magnetic reed switches, >> but >> it might not be as sensitive as the electronic type. Sometimes reed >> switches can be finicky about the strength and orientation of the magnet. >> They work best when the longitudinal axis of the magnet is parallel with >> the >> longitudinal axis of the switch and they are both side by side. I am not >> saying that other orientations will not work, just that they work best as >> described. >> >> -------- >> Joe Gores >> > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:09:13 PM PST US From: "William Hunter" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Starter Solenoid Diode My Spanish uncle would call it a "Dye-Oh-Doe" and I know I need one however I do not know what value nor where to install it. I want an indicator on my EMS to monitor the starter motor being energized and a cyber friend recommended installing a 1N4004 diode on my "I" pole of my starter solenoid to protect the Dynon EMS sensor and he drew up the attached PDF diagram and I will certainly do as he recommends. The additional question is.can someone also provide me with a quick schmatic of what diode I should use and where and what polarity to install it to protect from electrical spikes (in the same manner as one does for master contactors)? .. THANKS GUYS.I am making progress this week (for a change)!!! Bill Hunter ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:11:05 PM PST US From: "William Hunter" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Sharing thermocouple inputs? Thanks Bob. I have read, highlighted, studied, re-read and studied your book practically cover to cover. It is a really great resource. .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Wednesday, August 2, 2017 3:40 PM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Sharing thermocouple inputs? Thermocouples and their management is covered in some detail in the 'Connection starting on Page 14-11. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 07:34:35 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Starter Solenoid Diode From: "user9253" Bob Nuckolls' diagrams have diodes and part numbers. Choose a diode that is physically strong enough to not break easily. Diodes are connected in parallel with coils to protect the controlling switch. The banded end of arc suppression diodes must connect to the positive side of coils. Connecting a diode backwards will cause smoke. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471461#471461 ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 08:02:15 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Starter Solenoid Diode From: Charlie England On 8/2/2017 9:07 PM, William Hunter wrote: > > My Spanish uncle would call it a Dye-Oh-Doe and I know I need one > however I do not know what value nor where to install it. > > I want an indicator on my EMS to monitor the starter motor being > energized and a cyber friend recommended installing a 1N4004 diode on > my I pole of my starter solenoid to protect the Dynon EMS sensor and > he drew up the attached PDF diagram and I will certainly do as he > recommends. > > The additional question iscan someone also provide me with a quick > schmatic of what diode I should use and where and what polarity to > install it to protect from electrical spikes (in the same manner as > one does for master contactors)? > > .. > > THANKS GUYSI am making progress this week (for a change)!!! > > Bill Hunter > The diode *is* a 1N4004; that's the ID of the diode. The bar at the pointy end of the symbol matches the band on the diode. Google the part number & you'll get specs (current handling, max allowable reverse voltage, etc), but it's not particularly critical if it's just used for isolation in a sensing circuit. Now, what it will do, connected as shown, is another question entirely. Without knowing the characteristics of the Dynon's input, it seems unlikely that it will do anything. The I terminal goes from floating to high (12V) when the start contacts close. But the diode, as drawn, will block that 12V from reaching the Dynon. Now, if the Dynon's input needs a signal to go low (zero) instead of high, to activate the input, the circuit shown won't do that, either. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message aeroelectric-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.