Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:28 AM - Re: Solder (Alec Myers)
2. 05:32 AM - Re[2]: Solder (Gerry van Dyk)
3. 08:40 AM - Re: Local Automotive Source for Starter Contactor? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 08:55 AM - Re: Z13/8 VS Z12 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 09:06 AM - Re: Re: Z13/8 VS Z12 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 09:13 AM - Re[2]: Solder (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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http://ca.mouser.com/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Solder/_/N-b11qq
On Aug 18, 2017, at 00:22, don van santen <donvansanten@gmail.com> wrote:
True except for fat wires, I crimp and solder those.
> On Aug 17, 2017 20:44, "Sebastien" <cluros@gmail.com> wrote:
> I found some on Digikey. I guess the thinner stuff would be better for ele
ctronics?
>
> https://www.digikey.ca/products/compare/en?RI=262_0_0_1000011_0_0_0_0_0_
0_0_0_0_0_%7C2dc186f%2Cffe00106%2C2b80001&k=solder&part=SMDSW.031+4OZ-ND
&part=SMDSW.020+4OZ-ND
>
>> On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 7:32 PM, don van santen <donvansanten@gmail.com> w
rote:
>> Amazon sells it. Not sure they can ship to Canada. The EU has banned the s
ale of lead containing products. Check Canadas laws.
>>
>>> On Aug 17, 2017 19:29, "Sebastien" <cluros@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> I've given up on being an idiot trying to solder stuff with whatever sol
der is sitting in the bottom of my electrical box. "Premium Computer Solder"
indeed.
>>>
>>> Does anyone know where - preferably in Canada - I can get a lifetime sup
ply of proper solder? 67/33 is I believe the stuff I should be using?
>>>
>>> Thank you,
>>>
>>> Sebastien
>
Message 2
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Just for the record, Amazon Canada is also worth looking at. Obviously
not an issue with crossing a border.
https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-Leaded-Solder-Diameter/dp/B005T8ND66/ref
=sr_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503058911&sr=1-17&keywords=solder
Gerry
------ Original Message ------
From: "don van santen" <donvansanten@gmail.com>
Sent: 2017-08-17 10:22:00 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Solder
>True except for fat wires, I crimp and solder those.
>
>On Aug 17, 2017 20:44, "Sebastien" <cluros@gmail.com> wrote:
>>I found some on Digikey. I guess the thinner stuff would be better for
>>electronics?
>>
>>https://www.digikey.ca/products/compare/en?RI=262_0_0_1000011_0_0_0_0_0
_0_0_0_0_0_%7C2dc186f%2Cffe00106%2C2b80001&k=solder&part=SMDSW.031+4OZ-
ND&part=SMDSW.020+4OZ-ND
>><https://www.digikey.ca/products/compare/en?RI=262_0_0_1000011_0_0_0_0_
0_0_0_0_0_0_%7C2dc186f%2Cffe00106%2C2b80001&k=solder&part=SMDSW.031+4OZ
-ND&part=SMDSW.020+4OZ-ND>
>>
>>On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 7:32 PM, don van santen
>><donvansanten@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>Amazon sells it. Not sure they can ship to Canada. The EU has banned
>>>the sale of lead containing products. Check Canadas laws.
>>>
>>>On Aug 17, 2017 19:29, "Sebastien" <cluros@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>I've given up on being an idiot trying to solder stuff with whatever
>>>>solder is sitting in the bottom of my electrical box. "Premium
>>>>Computer Solder" indeed.
>>>>
>>>>Does anyone know where - preferably in Canada - I can get a lifetime
>>>>supply of proper solder? 67/33 is I believe the stuff I should be
>>>>using?
>>>>
>>>>Thank you,
>>>>
>>>>Sebastien
>>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Local Automotive Source for Starter Contactor? |
At 10:10 AM 8/16/2017, you wrote:
>Numerous Ford vehicles in the 60's through at least the 80's used a
>similar starter relay. The real problem is getting one that actually
>works for a decent period of time. I have a 1988 Ford Bronco II that
>recently needed a new contactor, so I went to my local NAPA to get
>one. It failed within 2 weeks, and worse yet, it failed by not
>disengaging! I returned it and asked if they perhaps had a better
>quality one. Paid a little extra, but same problem within a month. I
>finally put an old salvaged contactor from a derelict Cessna 150 on
>my Bronco and it's been fine every since. My take is that it might
>be difficult to get a quality unit from a chain auto parts store. A
>contactor that doesn't engage is one thing. It's a lot worse when it
>won't stop cranking your engine. I still drive around with a handy
>wrench to disconnect my battery. Fortunately, in your plane you can
>turn off the master switch.
Starter contactor sticking is more likely to be
caused by high resistance in the cranking
and/or cranking control circuitry than for
any reasons of quality/design of the contactor.
The 'ford' style contactor has been around for
decades . . . long enough for manufacturers
to figure out how to do it right. The movable
contact looks rather 'flimsy' and indeed it
is flexible.
Emacs!
When the 'solenoid' winding is energized,
the movable contact is push up against
the stationary contacts . . .
Emacs!
. . . hopefully with enough force to 'mash' the
contact surfaces together and develop contact
pressure needed for good connection through the
fat wires.
High resistance in the fat wire circuit and/or
the battery itself can manifest in excessive sag
of bus voltage during the starter's inrush transient . . .
just a few tens of milliseconds. That depression
in voltage reduces the closing forces on the
fat wire contacts and increases contact bounce
while increasing contact resistance. This is the
stuff of welded contacts.
The fact that you had a series of failures suggests
a high resistance scenario in some combination of
battery, fat wires, battery contactor, and starter
control wire. You may have noted that my Z-figures
show 20AWG wire to the starter switch . . . 18AWG
wouldn't be overkill. Has nothing to do with
wire 'overheating' and everything to do with minimizing
losses in the system during those first few milliseconds
after you hit the button.
Any 'stick' on the starter contactor, especially
a low time part is cause for close examination of
causes other than quality of the contactor.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Z13/8 VS Z12 |
At 10:54 AM 8/16/2017, you wrote:
>
>A timely question for me. I have a 2001 GlaStar that is about to get
>a glass panel upgrade. I bought a B&C BD410-H alternator to replace
>the vacuum pump. Since I believe that would easily be able to power
>the entire plane and I don't have an engine with electronic ignition
>I was leaning toward Z12 with no endurance bus. However I've also
>been studying Z13 to see if it makes more sense. I'm open to
>opinions on what to do in this relatively green-field application.
Do your load analysis.
There are examples of Excel spread sheet load studies
along with some paper forms you can use as
tools for crafting your own load analysis.
http://tinyurl.com/9rt6ymn
The critical number for your Z12 vs Z13 decision
is the last column on
http://tinyurl.com/7jqypwj
you fill out TWO of these . . . one for
the battery bus, one for the bus that's
powered during main alternator out operations.
The sum of those numbers needs to be on the
order of 8A or less. The accessories you
choose to operate in this mode depends
on your skills for comfortably sustaining
en route flight to airport of intended
destination.
Once the airport is in sight, you can turn
on any other goodies that improves your
performance during approach phase . . .
you'll have plenty of battery left
to support the op.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Z13/8 VS Z12 |
At 07:44 PM 8/17/2017, you wrote:
>
>Don,
>It is highly unlikely that two failures will occur on the same
>flight: battery contactor and alternator belt, especially since
>battery contactors rarely fail.
In Part 23 aircraft (vast majority of
single engine aircraft), system reliability
studies (statistical analysis) are not required
and stacked failures are never considered.
The likelihood of compounding failures
occurring while consuming one tank full of fuel is
exceedingly remote. Some failures, like
belts breaking, are WWwwaaayyy down on the
list of concerns . . . anyone who suffers
a broken belt has been ignoring it too
long.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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At 07:31 AM 8/18/2017, you wrote:
><?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-16"?>
>Just for the record, Amazon Canada is also worth
>looking at. =C2 Obviously not an issue with crossing a border.
There are 300+ offerings of Kester 63/37 in
various put-ups on eBay.
http://tinyurl.com/yb8rcqgb
Bob . . .
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