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1. 02:04 AM - Re: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness (=?UTF-8?B?TmFkw6hnZSBT?=)
2. 03:08 AM - Re: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness (Brian Lester)
3. 08:49 AM - Bitcoin Reward Invest 0.05 btc Return 5 btc in 24 hours (btcqatar)
4. 09:52 AM - Re: Re: Silent-Hektik Regulator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 11:48 AM - Re: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 01:13 PM - Re: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness (Brian Lester)
7. 01:21 PM - Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness (jonlaury)
8. 05:08 PM - Re: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness (Charlie England)
9. 05:43 PM - Re: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness (Charlie England)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness |
Hi all
To Charlie,
I guess this is not a heat transfer type of printer, right? Your model
being discontinued I want to make sure I get the right type of printer...
To Brian,
Where do you source your clear heat shrink tube?
Nadege Supornpaibul
________________________________ Message 4 ______________________________
_______
Time: 05:51:34 AM PST US
From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness
Interesting result. Seems to demonstrate a principle I always try to
remember with homebuilt activities: Any variation in materials, techniques,
etc can vary outcome.
For a labeling 'variation', I've got a cheap Brother P-touch PT-530 label
printer. Configuring it for minimal label waste isn't possible, so I've
used some of the wasted material to hand-label with a black Sharpie brand
pen. To test, I left one outdoors, in the MS sun, for over a month, with no
issues.
A strange idiosyncrasy of the label material is that it sticks tenaciously
to almost any surface, but when you fold it around a wire, it doesn't want
to stick to itself. (?) After a few days, almost every label I initially
applied to wires had either dropped off, or was just barely hanging on
where the bend point touched the wire. I can't remember how I discovered
this, but if I press one half of the sticky surface on my finger (which
almost always has a bit of dust/dirt on it while working), and then re-fold
the label onto itself, it never releases again. So now, any time I'm
labeling wires, I press half the sticky surface on a finger before folding
it over a wire. Works fine; seems to last a long time.
Charlie
________________________________ Message 6 ______________________________
Time: 06:27:08 AM PST US
From: Brian Lester <brian.lester@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness
I have used clear heat shrink tube over brother labels to deal with issues
of the labels falling off or not sticking well for network cabling. Plan to
do the same in my airplane when I get to that point.
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness |
I typically get from amazon for previous projects. For my plane wire
harness I may have to verify what I use won't give off fumes and is flame
retardant.
Quick google search shows mil spec stuff is out there. This may be overkill
but for about $15 per 100 ft to make sure you get the right stuff it may be
worth it.
http://www.awcwire.com/productspec.aspx?id=st-221-extra-flexible#chart
Anyone have other suggestions or better advice?
On Wed, Aug 30, 2017 at 5:10 AM Nad=C3=A8ge S <nadege.pilot@gmail.com> wrot
e:
> Hi all
>
> To Charlie,
> I guess this is not a heat transfer type of printer, right? Your model
> being discontinued I want to make sure I get the right type of printer...
>
> To Brian,
> Where do you source your clear heat shrink tube?
>
> Nadege Supornpaibul
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
> Time: 05:51:34 AM PST US
> From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness
>
>
> Interesting result. Seems to demonstrate a principle I always try to
> remember with homebuilt activities: Any variation in materials, technique
s,
> etc can vary outcome.
>
> For a labeling 'variation', I've got a cheap Brother P-touch PT-530 label
> printer. Configuring it for minimal label waste isn't possible, so I've
> used some of the wasted material to hand-label with a black Sharpie brand
> pen. To test, I left one outdoors, in the MS sun, for over a month, with
no
> issues.
>
> A strange idiosyncrasy of the label material is that it sticks tenaciousl
y
> to almost any surface, but when you fold it around a wire, it doesn't wan
t
> to stick to itself. (?) After a few days, almost every label I initially
> applied to wires had either dropped off, or was just barely hanging on
> where the bend point touched the wire. I can't remember how I discovered
> this, but if I press one half of the sticky surface on my finger (which
> almost always has a bit of dust/dirt on it while working), and then re-fo
ld
> the label onto itself, it never releases again. So now, any time I'm
> labeling wires, I press half the sticky surface on a finger before foldin
g
> it over a wire. Works fine; seems to last a long time.
>
> Charlie
> ________________________________ Message 6
> ______________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:27:08 AM PST US
> From: Brian Lester <brian.lester@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness
>
>
> I have used clear heat shrink tube over brother labels to deal with issue
s
> of the labels falling off or not sticking well for network cabling. Plan
to
> do the same in my airplane when I get to that point.
>
Message 3
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Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=472357#472357
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Silent-Hektik Regulator |
At 08:05 PM 8/29/2017, you wrote:
>
>Dan Horton conducted an experiment similar to mine above except that
>he shut off the avionics first. His alternator is a Plane Power
>60A. With the battery disconnected from the aircraft electrical
>system, the voltage varied between 13 and 16 volts (as far as he
>could tell without data logging instruments). So it appears that
>3-phase common alternators require a battery to stabilize voltage
>just like permanent-magnet single-phase alternators do.
>You can read his post here:
>http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=1200109#post1200109
I cruised through the thread and captured it.
Lots of good nuggets of info but sprinkled with
assertions with shaky or no foundation.
Haven't got time to sift the sands now
but I will . . .
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness |
At 05:06 AM 8/30/2017, you wrote:
>I typically get from amazon for previous
>projects. For my plane wire harness I may have
>to verify what I use won't give off fumes and is flame retardant.=C2
There is no wire that 'does not give off fumes' . . .
it's just that some fumes are more tolerable than
others. This is what fuses and circuit breakers
are for. If you don't set your wires on fire in the
first place, then fume phobias become moot.
A similar condition exists for flame ratings of
the various insulations. Look at the
manner in which flame testing is generally
conducted by deliberately igniting a wire and
(1) observing that the flames go out when source
is removed and (2) the sample doesn't drop
flaming globs.
Okay, let us conjure up the scenario that
forces you to conduct a flame resistance
test in flight on your airplane? What would
the flame source be? Where are potentially
victim wires be located? Assuming that there
IS a flame source tormenting your wires, what
would you suppose your greatest concern might be?
Dripping fireballs?
Of all the GA aircraft accidents I've either
worked or became familiar with, I can recall
few instances of an in flight fire. July
10, 1999 when the pilot of an RV8 departed
his aircraft seconds before ground impact.
The fire started as result of dynamic engine
disassembly.
Some of you may be aware of some others. I'm
vaguely remembering a GlasAir accident where
a firewall penetrations for a fuel line
came loose . . . was that an in-flight fire?
The point being that in the history of unhappy
days in the GA aircraft cockpit, concerns for
type of wire used on the aircraft should be a few
notches above deciding the color of the accent
stripe on the paint job.
Steinair, B&C and ACS are all good sources for
Tefzel bitty-wires, nice and floppy welding
cable is fine for fat-wires.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness |
Bob, thank you for the sanity check! I'm sure I'm not the only one to
"overthink" things and always happy to get some good advice from those with
more experience!
On Wed, Aug 30, 2017 at 2:53 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 05:06 AM 8/30/2017, you wrote:
>
> I typically get from amazon for previous projects. For my plane wire
> harness I may have to verify what I use won't give off fumes and is flame
> retardant.=C3=82
>
>
> There is no wire that 'does not give off fumes' . . .
> it's just that some fumes are more tolerable than
> others. This is what fuses and circuit breakers
> are for. If you don't set your wires on fire in the
> first place, then fume phobias become moot.
>
> A similar condition exists for flame ratings of
> the various insulations. Look at the
> manner in which flame testing is generally
> conducted by deliberately igniting a wire and
> (1) observing that the flames go out when source
> is removed and (2) the sample doesn't drop
> flaming globs.
>
> Okay, let us conjure up the scenario that
> forces you to conduct a flame resistance
> test in flight on your airplane? What would
> the flame source be? Where are potentially
> victim wires be located? Assuming that there
> IS a flame source tormenting your wires, what
> would you suppose your greatest concern might be?
>
> Dripping fireballs?
>
> Of all the GA aircraft accidents I've either
> worked or became familiar with, I can recall
> few instances of an in flight fire. July
> 10, 1999 when the pilot of an RV8 departed
> his aircraft seconds before ground impact.
> The fire started as result of dynamic engine
> disassembly.
>
> Some of you may be aware of some others. I'm
> vaguely remembering a GlasAir accident where
> a firewall penetrations for a fuel line
> came loose . . . was that an in-flight fire?
>
> The point being that in the history of unhappy
> days in the GA aircraft cockpit, concerns for
> type of wire used on the aircraft should be a few
> notches above deciding the color of the accent
> stripe on the paint job.
>
> Steinair, B&C and ACS are all good sources for
> Tefzel bitty-wires, nice and floppy welding
> cable is fine for fat-wires.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness |
art(at)zemon.name wrote:
> Jon,
>
> This is very disturbing. How much time? All of the wiring that I already have
in the plane has been labeled with Sharpies on white heat shrink. I can still
relabel a bunch of it if necessary.
It occurred, IIR, mostly under the cowl after I started doing ground engine runs,
so it's probably heat related. I'm thinking that things started to change in
less than a year after subjected to heat...maybe sooner. When everything worked
as expected after initial engine runs, I had no reason to dig into wire bundles.
It was during first flight that some bugs turned up that caused me to take
apart some bundles and discover illegible markings.
For now, I've contented myself in thinking that if it all works fine, then there's
no need to be able to ID what I wrote. If it doesn't work fine, then I'll
diagnose, ID and relabel then. Or if everything is ducky and I feel a burning
need for a project, I'll swallow the frog then. :)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=472366#472366
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness |
Hi Nadege,
I honestly don't remember the tech used in that printer, but heat does
not affect the labels. I actually checked one with a soldering iron,
before committing to using that label printer.
I use clear heatshrink over soldered joints when possible, just so I can
visually inspect without cutting it off. You should be able to get clear
from just about any vendor in the USA. Don't know about the rest of the
world.
Charlie
On 8/30/2017 4:02 AM, Nadge S wrote:
> Hi all
>
> To Charlie,
> I guess this is not a heat transfer type of printer, right? Your model
> being discontinued Iwant to make sure I get the right type of printer...
>
> To Brian,
> Where do you source your clear heat shrink tube?
>
> Nadege Supornpaibul
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
> Time: 05:51:34 AM PST US
> From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com <mailto:ceengland7@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness
>
> Interesting result. Seems to demonstrate a principle I always try to
> remember with homebuilt activities: Any variation in materials,
> techniques,
> etc can vary outcome.
>
> For a labeling 'variation', I've got a cheap Brother P-touch PT-530 label
> printer. Configuring it for minimal label waste isn't possible, so I've
> used some of the wasted material to hand-label with a black Sharpie brand
> pen. To test, I left one outdoors, in the MS sun, for over a month,
> with no
> issues.
>
> A strange idiosyncrasy of the label material is that it sticks tenaciously
> to almost any surface, but when you fold it around a wire, it doesn't want
> to stick to itself. (?) After a few days, almost every label I initially
> applied to wires had either dropped off, or was just barely hanging on
> where the bend point touched the wire. I can't remember how I discovered
> this, but if I press one half of the sticky surface on my finger (which
> almost always has a bit of dust/dirt on it while working), and then
> re-fold
> the label onto itself, it never releases again. So now, any time I'm
> labeling wires, I press half the sticky surface on a finger before folding
> it over a wire. Works fine; seems to last a long time.
>
> Charlie
> ________________________________ Message 6 ______________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:27:08 AM PST US
> From: Brian Lester <brian.lester@gmail.com
> <mailto:brian.lester@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness
>
> I have used clear heat shrink tube over brother labels to deal with issues
> of the labels falling off or not sticking well for network cabling.
> Plan to
> do the same in my airplane when I get to that point.
---
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Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness |
Hi Nadege,
I honestly don't remember the tech used in that printer, but heat does
not affect the labels. I actually checked one with a soldering iron,
before committing to using that label printer.
I use clear heatshrink over soldered joints when possible, just so I can
visually inspect without cutting it off. You should be able to get clear
from just about any vendor in the USA. Don't know about the rest of the
world.
Charlie
On 8/30/2017 4:02 AM, Nadge S wrote:
> Hi all
>
> To Charlie,
> I guess this is not a heat transfer type of printer, right? Your model
> being discontinued Iwant to make sure I get the right type of printer...
>
> To Brian,
> Where do you source your clear heat shrink tube?
>
> Nadege Supornpaibul
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
> Time: 05:51:34 AM PST US
> From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com <mailto:ceengland7@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness
>
> Interesting result. Seems to demonstrate a principle I always try to
> remember with homebuilt activities: Any variation in materials,
> techniques,
> etc can vary outcome.
>
> For a labeling 'variation', I've got a cheap Brother P-touch PT-530 label
> printer. Configuring it for minimal label waste isn't possible, so I've
> used some of the wasted material to hand-label with a black Sharpie brand
> pen. To test, I left one outdoors, in the MS sun, for over a month,
> with no
> issues.
>
> A strange idiosyncrasy of the label material is that it sticks tenaciously
> to almost any surface, but when you fold it around a wire, it doesn't want
> to stick to itself. (?) After a few days, almost every label I initially
> applied to wires had either dropped off, or was just barely hanging on
> where the bend point touched the wire. I can't remember how I discovered
> this, but if I press one half of the sticky surface on my finger (which
> almost always has a bit of dust/dirt on it while working), and then
> re-fold
> the label onto itself, it never releases again. So now, any time I'm
> labeling wires, I press half the sticky surface on a finger before folding
> it over a wire. Works fine; seems to last a long time.
>
> Charlie
> ________________________________ Message 6 ______________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:27:08 AM PST US
> From: Brian Lester <brian.lester@gmail.com
> <mailto:brian.lester@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Tips for Building a Wiring Harness
>
> I have used clear heat shrink tube over brother labels to deal with issues
> of the labels falling off or not sticking well for network cabling.
> Plan to
> do the same in my airplane when I get to that point.
---
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