Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:53 AM - e-mag p model (pmag) power/ground wire size question (Mickey Coggins)
2. 06:05 AM - Re: Magic marker "robustness" (Charlie England)
3. 07:09 AM - Re: Magic marker "robustness" (Art Zemon)
4. 07:45 AM - Re: Magic marker "robustness" (Dj Merrill)
5. 08:06 AM - Re: Magic marker "robustness" (Brian Lester)
6. 08:52 AM - Re: Magic marker "robustness" (Robert Borger)
7. 09:16 AM - Re: e-mag p model (pmag) power/ground wire size question (user9253)
8. 09:21 AM - Re: Non-aero app: 120/240 AC through 24vdc switch? (jonlaury)
9. 09:28 AM - Re: Magic marker "robustness" (Charlie England)
10. 10:16 AM - Re: Magic marker "robustness" (Robert Borger)
11. 10:44 AM - Re: Non-aero app: 120/240 AC through 24vdc switch? (Eric Page)
12. 10:48 AM - Re: Magic marker "robustness" (Charlie England)
13. 11:02 AM - Re: Magic marker "robustness" (Robert Borger)
14. 11:40 AM - Re: Re: Non-aero app: 120/240 AC through 24vdc switch? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 11:41 AM - Re: Re: e-mag p model (pmag) power/ground wire size question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 12:01 PM - Re: Re: Aeroelectric Figure Z-35. Non-Cranking (Small) Aux Battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 01:08 PM - Re: Magic marker "robustness" ()
18. 01:16 PM - Re: Re: e-mag p model (pmag) power/ground wire size question (Mickey Coggins)
19. 02:45 PM - Re: Re: Aeroelectric Figure Z-35. Non-Cranking (Small) Aux Battery (Charles Rogers)
20. 03:28 PM - Wiring PTT Switches (Art Zemon)
21. 03:30 PM - Re: Re: Aeroelectric Figure Z-35. Non-Cranking (Small) Aux Battery (Charles Rogers)
22. 03:34 PM - Non fading black ink (Janet Amtmann)
23. 03:42 PM - Re: Wiring PTT Switches (Daniel Hooper)
24. 04:48 PM - Re: Wiring PTT Switches (Charlie England)
25. 05:07 PM - Re: Non fading black ink (John Cox)
26. 07:42 PM - Re: Magic marker "robustness" (Rick Beebe)
27. 08:13 PM - Heat Shrink Labels for 20 AWG Wire (Art Zemon)
28. 08:22 PM - Re: Heat Shrink Labels for 20 AWG Wire (don van santen)
29. 08:23 PM - Re: Wiring PTT Switches (Art Zemon)
30. 08:29 PM - Re: Heat Shrink Labels for 20 AWG Wire (Robert Borger)
31. 08:30 PM - Re: Magic marker "robustness" (don van santen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | e-mag p model (pmag) power/ground wire size question |
Hi,
The pmag instructions say that the maximum current draw is 0.25 amps, but
they recommend 18 AWG wire for both power and ground, and 22 AWG for the
other 4 wires.
>From the manual:
"(Power and ground wiring should be 18 gauge. Other wires can be 20 gauge.)"
"Idle current draw (not firing) is approx. 20ma, while max current draw
(firing at max rpm) is approx 0.25 amps"
I can get nice 6 conductor 22 AWG wire which I think would work well for
0.25 amps at 12 volts, but is not in line with the manual.
My instinct is to just do what the supplier says, but unfortunately the AEC
has taught me to think about these things, which can be dangerous! :)
Mickey Coggins
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Magic marker "robustness" |
On Sat, Sep 2, 2017 at 5:39 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 07:15 AM 9/2/2017, you wrote:
>
> My Sharpie story.
>
> Some years ago, I flew my LongEz from the UK to the US and on to Mojave,
> where I met Burt Rutan and had him sign the fuselage with a sharpie. I was
> so proud of this that I covered the signature with clear plastic vinyl, to
> protect it.
>
> Although my Ez is always hangared, the signature nevertheless slowly faded
> over the years, to the point of invisibility.....
>
> Bill Allen
>
>
> Well fooey . . . on two counts.
>
> Burt is one of my heros. Had an opportunity to
> contribute to the Voyager project and was
> present at both the roll out and victory
> parties. He's an amazing individual . . . as
> was his desert skunk werks. Sad to loose
> that unique artifact.
>
> So, does the pigment 'bleach' with age? Soak
> into the surface? As I mentioned earlier, there
> are two versions of the Sharpie, one claiming
> to be 'permanent'.
>
> Guess we don't yet understand the nature of
> the impermanence. I poked around on the 'net
> and ran across some reviews of this product
> with respect to permanence . . . ordered
> some to play with . . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/yc3r8zpz
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Waaay too many variables, like a lot of stuff we do with experimental
a/c.One guy says it (whatever 'it' might be) will never work, 'cause it
didn't work for me. Another says it works fine, 'cause it worked for me.
Nobody can actually specify every detail, often because we don't know which
details actually matter.
This morning, I needed to add gear oil to my finish mower's gearbox. As I
was pouring the 90 weight oil, I noticed the 'label' on the jug. This jug
is *at least* 10 years old; probably closer to 15, and it's been on a shelf
in an open (no hangar door) hangar for its entire life. The marker ID was
added after the original plastic shrink labeling fell off, due to oil/etc
contamination and damage, very early in the jug's 'career'. Like everyone
else, I can't say for sure which marker I used, or even if I cleaned the
jug before marking it. I *think* I probably used the brand/style marker
shown in the pic, and probably did a quick wipe with alcohol before
marking. But it was a decade or more ago, so.....
Charlie
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Magic marker "robustness" |
Reading that Sharpie markers fade with time *sometimes*, I have decided to
buy a real label maker machine. I am making the conservative choice, a
K-Sun Bee3-EZ. Everything that I have read says that these heat-shrink
labels work well and last a long time.
I started using permanent fine-point Sharpie written on white heat-shrink.
It works great. BUT... I want confidence that the labels will be clearly
legible in 10 years or so.
BTW, I used the regular width, permanent Sharpie to label some of my clear
plastic parts drawers. After five years, the black had faded away from some
of them. I don't know if it was sunlight or what. Other labels on the same
plastic with the same marker are fine. It's a mystery that I don't need to
have inside my airplane.
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Magic marker "robustness" |
Several years ago I read somewhere that the blue Sharpie permanent
markers lasted the longest compared to the other colors, but I have no
reference to back that up.
I have clear plastic sandwich bags that I marked a decade or so ago with
a blue Sharpie, and they have held up okay, but do indicate some fading.
Some aluminum parts I marked with the same marker around the same time
still look fresh as the day I marked them.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87
Building: Sportsman 2+2 - Currently Flying: Glastar
Previously: Cessna 150 - Glasair 1 FT - Grumman AA1B
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Magic marker "robustness" |
I think the material being marked also plays a part in how "permanent" the
markings are. Different plastics absorb the sharpie better than others. As
others have stated, sometimes packing tape, clear vinyl, or other covering
will extend the life of the sharpie.
Environmental factors also play a part (UV light, heat, humidity, etc.).
If you absolutely need it to be permanent, use something that is
appropriately rated.
-Brian
On Sun, Sep 3, 2017 at 10:50 AM Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net> wrote:
>
> Several years ago I read somewhere that the blue Sharpie permanent
> markers lasted the longest compared to the other colors, but I have no
> reference to back that up.
>
> I have clear plastic sandwich bags that I marked a decade or so ago with
> a blue Sharpie, and they have held up okay, but do indicate some fading.
> Some aluminum parts I marked with the same marker around the same time
> still look fresh as the day I marked them.
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87
> Building: Sportsman 2+2 - Currently Flying: Glastar
> Previously: Cessna 150 - Glasair 1 FT - Grumman AA1B
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Magic marker "robustness" |
Gents,
Earlier this year I purchased a DYMO RHINO 4200 label machine to replace
an old, 1st gen., RHINO I had been using for many years.
These things print on several types of adhesive labels that seem to
stick very well as well as printing on shrink tube. The labels come in
clear, silver and white as well as printing in red, black and other
colors. The shrink tube is in white or yellow. The labels & shrink
tube are available in sizes of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 inch. This thing
is super easy to use. I do recommend not printing one label at a time.
Identify and print a large batch all at once to save wastage between
labels.
One availability is through Amazon but there may be other sources at
better prices. But the Amazon listing shows all pertinent information
and has a demo video.
https://smile.amazon.com/DYMO-RHINO-Label-Maker-1801611/dp/B005MR516Y/ref=
sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504450593&sr=8-2&keywords=dymo+rhino+label+mak
er
<https://smile.amazon.com/DYMO-RHINO-Label-Maker-1801611/dp/B005MR516Y/ref
=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504450593&sr=8-2&keywords=dymo+rhino+label+
maker>
My best piece of advice is to be sure you are buying real DYMO
cartridges as there are Chinese knockoffs that can be of highly variable
quality (sometimes equal to DYMO,sometimes crap, use at your own risk).
Those ones you see in plastic bags are the knockoffs. The real DYMO
cartridges come in well labeled boxes as can be seen on the Amazon
posting.
I did the print tiny labels on paper and hide under clear shrink, I did
the fine line sharpie on shrink tube before the RHINO. They work but
can be a real PITA to accomplish well. The DYMO is more expensive but
it sure is quick and easy to do well.
Just my tuppence on the subject, YMMV.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Sep 3, 2017, at 9:07 AM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
Reading that Sharpie markers fade with time sometimes, I have decided to
buy a real label maker machine. I am making the conservative choice, a
K-Sun Bee3-EZ. Everything that I have read says that these heat-shrink
labels work well and last a long time.
I started using permanent fine-point Sharpie written on white
heat-shrink. It works great. BUT... I want confidence that the labels
will be clearly legible in 10 years or so.
BTW, I used the regular width, permanent Sharpie to label some of my
clear plastic parts drawers. After five years, the black had faded away
from some of them. I don't know if it was sunlight or what. Other labels
on the same plastic with the same marker are fine. It's a mystery that I
don't need to have inside my airplane.
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: e-mag p model (pmag) power/ground wire size question |
The recommended wire size was likely chosen for mechanical robustness rather than
ampacity.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=472447#472447
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Non-aero app: 120/240 AC through 24vdc switch? |
[quote="Eric Page"]
>
>
> Keep in mind also that anything from China with a $0.99 price tag and a name
brand like OMRON printed on it is going to be a case of blatant IP theft.
Hi Eric
Thanks for your suggestion and I did buy a lot of 3 "Omron" AC-AC SSR's from Ebay.
They're labelled with Omron's logo and Made in China, $25. Probably not Omron
product, right?
The question that looms large in my mind is, are they truly zero-crossing relays?
Is there a way to test that function without a lot of expensive equipment?
Or who would have the needed equipment so that I could have them tested?
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=472448#472448
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Magic marker "robustness" |
Boy, that thing is really BIG. Are you sure the labels will fit in the
plane?
;-)
On Sun, Sep 3, 2017 at 10:50 AM, Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com> wrote:
> Gents,
>
> Earlier this year I purchased a DYMO RHINO 4200 label machine to replace
> an old, 1st gen., RHINO I had been using for many years.
>
> These things print on several types of adhesive labels that seem to stick
> very well as well as printing on shrink tube. The labels come in clear,
> silver and white as well as printing in red, black and other colors. The
> shrink tube is in white or yellow. The labels & shrink tube are available
> in sizes of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 inch. This thing is super easy to use.
> I do recommend not printing one label at a time. Identify and print a large
> batch all at once to save wastage between labels.
>
> One availability is through Amazon but there may be other sources at
> better prices. But the Amazon listing shows all pertinent information and
> has a demo video.
>
> https://smile.amazon.com/DYMO-RHINO-Label-Maker-1801611/dp/
> B005MR516Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504450593&sr=8-2&
> keywords=dymo+rhino+label+maker
>
> My best piece of advice is to be sure you are buying real DYMO cartridges
> as there are Chinese knockoffs that can be of highly variable quality
> (sometimes equal to DYMO,sometimes crap, use at your own risk). Those ones
> you see in plastic bags are the knockoffs. The real DYMO cartridges come
> in well labeled boxes as can be seen on the Amazon posting.
>
> I did the print tiny labels on paper and hide under clear shrink, I did
> the fine line sharpie on shrink tube before the RHINO. They work but can
> be a real PITA to accomplish well. The DYMO is more expensive but it sure
> is quick and easy to do well.
>
> Just my tuppence on the subject, YMMV.
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
> Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117 <(817)%20992-1117>
> rlborger@mac.com
>
> On Sep 3, 2017, at 9:07 AM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
>
> Reading that Sharpie markers fade with time *sometimes*, I have decided
> to buy a real label maker machine. I am making the conservative choice, a
> K-Sun Bee3-EZ. Everything that I have read says that these heat-shrink
> labels work well and last a long time.
>
> I started using permanent fine-point Sharpie written on white heat-shrink.
> It works great. BUT... I want confidence that the labels will be clearly
> legible in 10 years or so.
>
> BTW, I used the regular width, permanent Sharpie to label some of my clear
> plastic parts drawers. After five years, the black had faded away from some
> of them. I don't know if it was sunlight or what. Other labels on the same
> plastic with the same marker are fine. It's a mystery that I don't need to
> have inside my airplane.
>
> Cheers,
> -- Art Z.
>
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Magic marker "robustness" |
Hi Charlie,
It=99s really not that big. The printer is 4.75=9D wide x
7.0=9D tall. It must be the case that makes it look big :^)
Here=99s a pic of some wire labels I did yesterday. These are
much larger than I normally would print but I was playing with print
sizes on some less expensive Chinese cartridges. But you can get the
idea.
There are labels on my Europa that were done over 10 years ago with my
old RHINO that are just as readable as they were the day they were
printed.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Sep 3, 2017, at 11:19 AM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
wrote:
Boy, that thing is really BIG. Are you sure the labels will fit in the
plane?
;-)
On Sun, Sep 3, 2017 at 10:50 AM, Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com
<mailto:rlborger@mac.com>> wrote:
Gents,
Earlier this year I purchased a DYMO RHINO 4200 label machine to replace
an old, 1st gen., RHINO I had been using for many years.
These things print on several types of adhesive labels that seem to
stick very well as well as printing on shrink tube. The labels come in
clear, silver and white as well as printing in red, black and other
colors. The shrink tube is in white or yellow. The labels & shrink
tube are available in sizes of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 inch. This thing
is super easy to use. I do recommend not printing one label at a time.
Identify and print a large batch all at once to save wastage between
labels.
One availability is through Amazon but there may be other sources at
better prices. But the Amazon listing shows all pertinent information
and has a demo video.
https://smile.amazon.com/DYMO-RHINO-Label-Maker-1801611/dp/B005MR516Y/ref=
sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504450593&sr=8-2&keywords=dymo+rhino+label+mak
er
<https://smile.amazon.com/DYMO-RHINO-Label-Maker-1801611/dp/B005MR516Y/ref
=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504450593&sr=8-2&keywords=dymo+rhino+label+
maker>
My best piece of advice is to be sure you are buying real DYMO
cartridges as there are Chinese knockoffs that can be of highly variable
quality (sometimes equal to DYMO,sometimes crap, use at your own risk).
Those ones you see in plastic bags are the knockoffs. The real DYMO
cartridges come in well labeled boxes as can be seen on the Amazon
posting.
I did the print tiny labels on paper and hide under clear shrink, I did
the fine line sharpie on shrink tube before the RHINO. They work but
can be a real PITA to accomplish well. The DYMO is more expensive but
it sure is quick and easy to do well.
Just my tuppence on the subject, YMMV.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117 <tel:(817)%20992-1117>
rlborger@mac.com <mailto:rlborger@mac.com>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Non-aero app: 120/240 AC through 24vdc switch? |
jonlaury wrote:
>
> Hi Eric
> Thanks for your suggestion and I did buy a lot of 3 "Omron" AC-AC SSR's from
Ebay. They're labelled with Omron's logo and Made in China, $25. Probably not
Omron product, right?
> The question that looms large in my mind is, are they truly zero-crossing relays?
Is there a way to test that function without a lot of expensive equipment?
Or who would have the needed equipment so that I could have them tested?
>
> John
There's probably no way to know for sure if they're genuine unless you have a known-good
example to compare against. Chinese knock-off products frequently have
noticeable errors or differences in printing quality or method in the part
markings (i.e. the real part may be laser-etched while the knock-off is screen
printed). Even this comparison isn't foolproof, as the manufacturer may produce
differences between lots or between factories.
OMRON is a Japanese company, but like everyone else, they probably run -- or contract
with -- factories in China.
Anyone with an oscilloscope should be able to determine if they're zero-cross SSRs
by viewing the output waveform at switch-on. There is potential to destroy
an oscilloscope when measuring mains voltages, so be sure that whoever does
this for you knows what they're doing WRT test setup, isolation and high voltage
measurement. It goes without saying that you touch ONLY the low voltage control
side of the circuit during the test.
Knock-off or not, if they're marked as zero-cross SSRs, I'd be very surprised if
they're not. It's a pretty trivial thing to accomplish.
If you find that they're not, the AC-AC Fotek brand parts on eBay that I linked
to in my last post look like they are...
http://www.fotek.com.hk/solid/SSR-2.htm
...and anything you get from Digi-Key, Newark, Mouser, Allied, Jameco, etc. will
be genuine and function as specified.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=472451#472451
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Magic marker "robustness" |
That comment was a joke referencing the size of the image you sent. (Way
bigger than the computer screen)
Sometimes it's hard to push a joke past the NSA's humor filter; it just
comes out the other side meaningless.
On 9/3/2017 12:14 PM, Robert Borger wrote:
> Hi Charlie,
>
> Its really not that big. The printer is 4.75 wide x 7.0 tall. It
> must be the case that makes it look big :^)
>
> Heres a pic of some wire labels I did yesterday. These are much
> larger than I normally would print but I was playing with print sizes
> on some less expensive Chinese cartridges. But you can get the idea.
>
>
> There are labels on my Europa that were done over 10 years ago with my
> old RHINO that are just as readable as they were the day they were
> printed.
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914,Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
> Little Toot Sport Biplane,Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117
> rlborger@mac.com <mailto:rlborger@mac.com>
>
> On Sep 3, 2017, at 11:19 AM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com
> <mailto:ceengland7@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Boy, that thing is really BIG. Are you sure the labels will fit in the
> plane?
>
>
> ;-)
>
> On Sun, Sep 3, 2017 at 10:50 AM, Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com
> <mailto:rlborger@mac.com>> wrote:
>
> Gents,
>
> Earlier this year I purchased a DYMO RHINO 4200 label machine to
> replace an old, 1st gen., RHINO I had been using for many years.
>
> These things print on several types of adhesive labels that seem
> to stick very well as well as printing on shrink tube. The labels
> come in clear, silver and white as well as printing in red, black
> and other colors. The shrink tube is in white or yellow. The
> labels & shrink tube are available in sizes of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and
> 3/4 inch. This thing is super easy to use. I do recommend not
> printing one label at a time. Identify and print a large batch all
> at once to save wastage between labels.
>
> One availability is through Amazon but there may be other sources
> at better prices. But the Amazon listing shows all pertinent
> information and has a demo video.
>
> https://smile.amazon.com/DYMO-RHINO-Label-Maker-1801611/dp/B005MR516Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504450593&sr=8-2&keywords=dymo+rhino+label+maker
> <https://smile.amazon.com/DYMO-RHINO-Label-Maker-1801611/dp/B005MR516Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504450593&sr=8-2&keywords=dymo+rhino+label+maker>
>
> My best piece of advice is to be sure you are buying real DYMO
> cartridges as there are Chinese knockoffs that can be of highly
> variable quality (sometimes equal to DYMO,sometimes crap, use at
> your own risk). Those ones you see in plastic bags are the
> knockoffs. The real DYMO cartridges come in well labeled boxes as
> can be seen on the Amazon posting.
>
> I did the print tiny labels on paper and hide under clear shrink,
> I did the fine line sharpie on shrink tube before the RHINO. They
> work but can be a real PITA to accomplish well. The DYMO is more
> expensive but it sure is quick and easy to do well.
>
> Just my tuppence on the subject, YMMV.
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914,Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
> Little Toot Sport Biplane,Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117 <tel:%28817%29%20992-1117>
> rlborger@mac.com <mailto:rlborger@mac.com>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Magic marker "robustness" |
Charlie,
I figured it was a funny. That=99s why I had to add the point
about =9Ccase making it look big :^)=9D But took the
occasion to add a bit of info as well. As for the size of the image, I
reduced the dimensions by a factor of 4 and quality by half to get it to
that size! I guess I should have gone for an 8x reduction. I=99ll
try to remember that the next time, max dimension only to be 512!
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com <mailto:rlborger@mac.com>
On Sep 3, 2017, at 12:50 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
wrote:
That comment was a joke referencing the size of the image you sent. (Way
bigger than the computer screen)
Sometimes it's hard to push a joke past the NSA's humor filter; it just
comes out the other side meaningless.
On 9/3/2017 12:14 PM, Robert Borger wrote:
> Hi Charlie,
>
> It=99s really not that big. The printer is 4.75=9D wide x
7.0=9D tall. It must be the case that makes it look big :^)
>
> Here=99s a pic of some wire labels I did yesterday. These are
much larger than I normally would print but I was playing with print
sizes on some less expensive Chinese cartridges. But you can get the
idea.
>
>
>
> There are labels on my Europa that were done over 10 years ago with my
old RHINO that are just as readable as they were the day they were
printed.
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
> Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117
> rlborger@mac.com <mailto:rlborger@mac.com>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Non-aero app: 120/240 AC through 24vdc switch? |
At 11:20 AM 9/3/2017, you wrote:
>
>[quote="Eric Page"]
> >
> >
> > Keep in mind also that anything from China with a $0.99 price tag
> and a name brand like OMRON printed on it is going to be a case of
> blatant IP theft.
>
>
>Hi Eric
>Thanks for your suggestion and I did buy a lot of 3 "Omron" AC-AC
>SSR's from Ebay. They're labelled with Omron's logo and Made in
>China, $25. Probably not Omron product, right?
>The question that looms large in my mind is, are they truly
>zero-crossing relays? Is there a way to test that function without a
>lot of expensive equipment? Or who would have the needed equipment
>so that I could have them tested?
The SSR contains a triac (bi-directional, triggered
switch). It's the same critter I sugeseted in my po'
boy's SSR Kludge a fews posts back.
By nature, ANY AC solid state relay will be
as close to a 'zero crossing' controller as
you can get. On the upswing of each half of
an AC waveform, a network of components are arranged
to bias the TRIAC gate to the threshold of trigger.
After that time, the TRIAC becomes almost a dead
short (about 1.5v drop) and the switch can be
deemed to be "ON".
Here's a rudimentary lamp dimmer schematic:
Image result for schematic ac dimmer switch
Notice one of the devices in the trigger network
is called a DIAC . . . this is a voltage sensitive
two terminal device that 'triggers' above some
specified voltage. DIMMING is accomplished
by adjusting the resistance in the R/C network
to control DELAY in rise of the trigger volage.
The more resistance, the longer the delay. A
longer delay moves the TRIAC trigger further away
from zero crossing thus REDUCING energy fed to the
load.
Here's a rudimentary solid state AC "relay"
Image result for schematic solid state relay
Here we see a little different trigger network for the
TRIAC. In this case, an LED is optically coupled to a
light sensitive DIAC such that if the LED is illuminated,
the DIAC will fire and trigger the TRIAC at the lowest
practical amplitude in the upward excursion of each
half of the AC waveform.
So technically, this relay does not close at the true
zero crossing . . . but it's very close. Within 10 volts
or so. Good enough for most applications.
These relays will work to mitigate your switch failure
issues as the current flowing in the LED loop is on the
order of 30mA or less. But you DO need a DC source of
power to energize the LED. It's only a few volts but it
does add to system complexity. You could rig a bridge
rectifier, a capacitor and a couple resistors to provide
the low energy source of DC.
But if you need to fabricate something anyhow, perhaps
the Kludge I offered earlier is the more elegant configuration.
The short answer is: You don't need to test these relays
for their zero-crossing qualities since chief complaint
is switch failure. The relays will take care of the switch
problem after you figure out how to integrate the SSR
into your design.
There are AC/AC SSR's . . . they feature TWO opto couplers
back to back so that an LED source of either polarity
will turn the SSR ON.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: e-mag p model (pmag) power/ground wire size |
question
At 11:14 AM 9/3/2017, you wrote:
>
>The recommended wire size was likely chosen for mechanical
>robustness rather than ampacity.
Agreed. Careful installation of your 22AWG with
attention to wire support at the joints is
a useful alternative.
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Figure Z-35. Non-Cranking (Small) |
Aux Battery
>
>4. It seems that Bob is reluctant to comment on proposed wiring
>architecture. Many have tried to improve upon his proven designs
>but few succeed. It will not hurt to post your wiring diagram.
Let me clarify my position.
Virtually all elegant solutions that achieve
a design goals are an iterative process. They
evolve as understanding grows, new materials
become available, old decisions are discarded/
modified to more nearly align with the goal.
When a new architecture is being proposed,
the questions I like to ask:
* Have you reviewed the published Z-figures?
* Is there an architecture that comes close but
does not meet your design goals?
*Have you 'gelled' your design goals to the extent
that they can be offered as a supporting narrative
to your 'new' architecture?
* Finally, do you understand the failure tolerant
design philosophy that all but guarantees you to
be free of bad electrical days in the cockpit?
* If a Z-figure is close but suffers a functional
deficiency for your mission requirements, how's the
best way to tweak the architecture?
The majority of participants here on the List do
understand failure tolerance. They're also privy to
all of the iterations that drove evolution of the
Z-figures (some have been revised a dozen times
or more).
Based on experience we can confidently assert
that the tangles have been pretty well combed out
of the Z-figures. But that doesn't mean than new
ideas, materials and processes won't cause them
to be modified again . . . perhaps many times in
the future.
I personally welcome any suggestions as to how
we may improve on the art and science of our
craft. But on several occasions, we have been
asked to evaluate a totally new configuration
from a builder that is worried about some pretty
small details . . . when in fact, there is risk
for some LARGE failures to maintain failure
tolerance.
These exercises can be time consuming and
I've got plenty of stuff on my plate. Please know
that my reluctance to engage in detailed studies
of new architectures has nothing to do with a
'not invented here' syndrome; and everything
to do with hours in the day.
There are lots of learned, cool heads on the List
who can help move the discussion along.
Bob . . .
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Magic marker "robustness" |
My experience using sharpies on under-panel wiring is that I marked all
of the wires in my RV-6 using a sharpie on a paper tag. That was 17
years ago. Those labels are illegible today =93 the sharpie
markings are just gone...
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: e-mag p model (pmag) power/ground wire size |
question
Thanks for the feedback, gentlemen.
Kind regards,
Mickey
Mickey Coggins
On 3 September 2017 at 20:41, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 11:14 AM 9/3/2017, you wrote:
>
>
> The recommended wire size was likely chosen for mechanical robustness
> rather than ampacity.
>
>
> Agreed. Careful installation of your 22AWG with
> attention to wire support at the joints is
> a useful alternative.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Figure Z-35. Non-Cranking (Small) |
Aux Battery
Let me clarify my position.
=C2-=C2- Virtually all elegant solutions that achieve
=C2-=C2- a design goals are an iterative process. They
=C2-=C2- evolve as understanding grows, new materials
=C2-=C2- become available, old decisions are discarded/
=C2-=C2- modified to more nearly align with the goal.
=C2-=C2- When a new architecture is being proposed,
=C2-=C2- the questions I like to ask:
=C2-=C2- * Have you reviewed the published Z-figures?=C2- YES
=C2-=C2- * Is there an architecture that comes close but
=C2-=C2- does not meet your design goals? YES. Z-30 and Z-35.
=C2-=C2- *Have you 'gelled' your design goals to the extent
=C2-=C2- that they can be offered as a supporting narrative
=C2-=C2- to your 'new' architecture?=C2- YES.
=C2-=C2- * Finally, do you understand the failure tolerant
=C2-=C2- design philosophy that all but guarantees you to
=C2-=C2- be free of bad electrical days in the cockpit?=C2- NO.=C2-
Please direct me to where I can learn more on this subject.=C2-=C2-=C2
-
=C2-=C2- * If a Z-figure is close but suffers a functional
=C2-=C2- deficiency for your mission requirements, how's the
=C2-=C2- best way to tweak the architecture?=C2- No deficiency I can
see with my limited experience.=C2- I would like to know the best way to
monitor the health of each battery independently. =C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2- The majority of participants here on the List do
=C2-=C2- understand failure tolerance. They're also privy to
=C2-=C2- all of the iterations that drove evolution of the
=C2-=C2- Z-figures (some have been revised a dozen times
=C2-=C2- or more).=C2- I know I read about failure tolerance before.
=C2- Can you please direct me where to look for information on this subje
ct.
=C2-=C2- Based on experience we can confidently assert
=C2-=C2- that the tangles have been pretty well combed out
=C2-=C2- of the Z-figures. But that doesn't mean than new
=C2-=C2- ideas, materials and processes won't cause them
=C2-=C2- to be modified again . . . perhaps many times in
=C2-=C2- the future.=C2-
=C2-=C2- I personally welcome any suggestions as to how
=C2-=C2- we may improve on the art and science of our
=C2-=C2- craft. But on several occasions, we have been
=C2-=C2- asked to evaluate a totally new configuration
=C2-=C2- from a builder that is worried about some pretty
=C2-=C2- small details . . . when in fact, there is risk
=C2-=C2- for some LARGE failures to maintain failure
=C2-=C2- tolerance.
=C2-=C2- These exercises can be time consuming and
=C2-=C2- I've got plenty of stuff on my plate. Please know
=C2-=C2- that my reluctance to engage in detailed studies
=C2-=C2- of new architectures has nothing to do with a
=C2-=C2- 'not invented here' syndrome; and everything
=C2-=C2- to do with hours in the day.=C2- I understand.=C2-
=C2-=C2- There are lots of learned, cool heads on the List
=C2-=C2- who can help move the discussion along.=C2- As, I'm finding
out.=C2- Thanks Joe. =C2- =C2-
On Sunday, September 3, 2017 12:19 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nucko
lls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
4.=C2- It seems that Bob is reluctant to comment on proposed wiringarchit
ecture.=C2- Many have tried to improve upon his proven designsbut few suc
ceed.=C2- It will not hurt to post your wiringdiagram.
=C2-=C2- Let me clarify my position.
=C2-=C2- Virtually all elegant solutions that achieve
=C2-=C2- a design goals are an iterative process. They
=C2-=C2- evolve as understanding grows, new materials
=C2-=C2- become available, old decisions are discarded/
=C2-=C2- modified to more nearly align with the goal.
=C2-=C2- When a new architecture is being proposed,
=C2-=C2- the questions I like to ask:
=C2-=C2- * Have you reviewed the published Z-figures?
=C2-=C2- * Is there an architecture that comes close but
=C2-=C2- does not meet your design goals?
=C2-=C2- *Have you 'gelled' your design goals to the extent
=C2-=C2- that they can be offered as a supporting narrative
=C2-=C2- to your 'new' architecture?
=C2-=C2- * Finally, do you understand the failure tolerant
=C2-=C2- design philosophy that all but guarantees you to
=C2-=C2- be free of bad electrical days in the cockpit?
=C2-=C2- * If a Z-figure is close but suffers a functional
=C2-=C2- deficiency for your mission requirements, how's the
=C2-=C2- best way to tweak the architecture?
=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2- The majority of participants here on the List do
=C2-=C2- understand failure tolerance. They're also privy to
=C2-=C2- all of the iterations that drove evolution of the
=C2-=C2- Z-figures (some have been revised a dozen times
=C2-=C2- or more).
=C2-=C2- Based on experience we can confidently assert
=C2-=C2- that the tangles have been pretty well combed out
=C2-=C2- of the Z-figures. But that doesn't mean than new
=C2-=C2- ideas, materials and processes won't cause them
=C2-=C2- to be modified again . . . perhaps many times in
=C2-=C2- the future.
=C2-=C2- I personally welcome any suggestions as to how
=C2-=C2- we may improve on the art and science of our
=C2-=C2- craft. But on several occasions, we have been
=C2-=C2- asked to evaluate a totally new configuration
=C2-=C2- from a builder that is worried about some pretty
=C2-=C2- small details . . . when in fact, there is risk
=C2-=C2- for some LARGE failures to maintain failure
=C2-=C2- tolerance.
=C2-=C2- These exercises can be time consuming and
=C2-=C2- I've got plenty of stuff on my plate. Please know
=C2-=C2- that my reluctance to engage in detailed studies
=C2-=C2- of new architectures has nothing to do with a
=C2-=C2- 'not invented here' syndrome; and everything
=C2-=C2- to do with hours in the day.
=C2-=C2- There are lots of learned, cool heads on the List
=C2-=C2- who can help move the discussion along.=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-
=C2- Bob . . .
Message 20
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| Subject: | Wiring PTT Switches |
Folks,
I need advice on how to wire the PTT switches for my plane. Here is a bit
of the wiring diagram for the PDA360EX audio panel:
[image: Inline image 1]
Clearly I have a shielded cable running from pins 33, 34, 35 on the
PDA360EX to the microphone jack in the instrument panel.
What do I run to the PTT switch in the grip on the joystick? It looks like
an unshielded pair of wires to me.
Thank you,
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Figure Z-35. Non-Cranking (Small) |
Aux Battery
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/failtoll.pdf
Good read.=C2- Thanks.=C2-
"If you don't embrace it by virtue of understanding, then let's continue to
talk about it."=C2-
"Remember that we're striving to design and fabricate failure tolerant syst
ems and pilots to go with them. The failure of that fuse or any other part
of the alternator system should be no-big-deal. . . no single failure of an
y component should create ahazard to flight or a tense pilot."
"Your "gut" feelings are correct, because you do not yet possess the data a
nd confidence to dispel them. It's foolish to embracethings I say because o
f any aura of expertise or authority I might project. Until you take person
al possession of knowledge and tools to move ahead, you are better off work
ing with things you know. When and if the day comes that you agree with any
thing I have to offer, please promote the idea to others because because YO
U say it's good not because this guy Nuckolls sez so . . . and then be prep
ared to explain it to your audience in terms they too will understand."
On Sunday, September 3, 2017 2:39 PM, Charles Rogers <chkaharyer99@yaho
o.com> wrote:
Let me clarify my position.
=C2-=C2- Virtually all elegant solutions that achieve
=C2-=C2- a design goals are an iterative process. They
=C2-=C2- evolve as understanding grows, new materials
=C2-=C2- become available, old decisions are discarded/
=C2-=C2- modified to more nearly align with the goal.
=C2-=C2- When a new architecture is being proposed,
=C2-=C2- the questions I like to ask:
=C2-=C2- * Have you reviewed the published Z-figures?=C2- YES
=C2-=C2- * Is there an architecture that comes close but
=C2-=C2- does not meet your design goals? YES. Z-30 and Z-35.
=C2-=C2- *Have you 'gelled' your design goals to the extent
=C2-=C2- that they can be offered as a supporting narrative
=C2-=C2- to your 'new' architecture?=C2- YES.
=C2-=C2- * Finally, do you understand the failure tolerant
=C2-=C2- design philosophy that all but guarantees you to
=C2-=C2- be free of bad electrical days in the cockpit?=C2- NO.=C2-
Please direct me to where I can learn more on this subject.=C2-=C2-=C2
-
=C2-=C2- * If a Z-figure is close but suffers a functional
=C2-=C2- deficiency for your mission requirements, how's the
=C2-=C2- best way to tweak the architecture?=C2- No deficiency I can
see with my limited experience.=C2- I would like to know the best way to
monitor the health of each battery independently. =C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2- The majority of participants here on the List do
=C2-=C2- understand failure tolerance. They're also privy to
=C2-=C2- all of the iterations that drove evolution of the
=C2-=C2- Z-figures (some have been revised a dozen times
=C2-=C2- or more).=C2- I know I read about failure tolerance before.
=C2- Can you please direct me where to look for information on this subje
ct.
=C2-=C2- Based on experience we can confidently assert
=C2-=C2- that the tangles have been pretty well combed out
=C2-=C2- of the Z-figures. But that doesn't mean than new
=C2-=C2- ideas, materials and processes won't cause them
=C2-=C2- to be modified again . . . perhaps many times in
=C2-=C2- the future.=C2-
=C2-=C2- I personally welcome any suggestions as to how
=C2-=C2- we may improve on the art and science of our
=C2-=C2- craft. But on several occasions, we have been
=C2-=C2- asked to evaluate a totally new configuration
=C2-=C2- from a builder that is worried about some pretty
=C2-=C2- small details . . . when in fact, there is risk
=C2-=C2- for some LARGE failures to maintain failure
=C2-=C2- tolerance.
=C2-=C2- These exercises can be time consuming and
=C2-=C2- I've got plenty of stuff on my plate. Please know
=C2-=C2- that my reluctance to engage in detailed studies
=C2-=C2- of new architectures has nothing to do with a
=C2-=C2- 'not invented here' syndrome; and everything
=C2-=C2- to do with hours in the day.=C2- I understand.=C2-
=C2-=C2- There are lots of learned, cool heads on the List
=C2-=C2- who can help move the discussion along.=C2- As, I'm finding
out.=C2- Thanks Joe. =C2- =C2-
On Sunday, September 3, 2017 12:19 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nucko
lls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
4.=C2- It seems that Bob is reluctant to comment on proposed wiringarchit
ecture.=C2- Many have tried to improve upon his proven designsbut few suc
ceed.=C2- It will not hurt to post your wiringdiagram.
=C2-=C2- Let me clarify my position.
=C2-=C2- Virtually all elegant solutions that achieve
=C2-=C2- a design goals are an iterative process. They
=C2-=C2- evolve as understanding grows, new materials
=C2-=C2- become available, old decisions are discarded/
=C2-=C2- modified to more nearly align with the goal.
=C2-=C2- When a new architecture is being proposed,
=C2-=C2- the questions I like to ask:
=C2-=C2- * Have you reviewed the published Z-figures?
=C2-=C2- * Is there an architecture that comes close but
=C2-=C2- does not meet your design goals?
=C2-=C2- *Have you 'gelled' your design goals to the extent
=C2-=C2- that they can be offered as a supporting narrative
=C2-=C2- to your 'new' architecture?
=C2-=C2- * Finally, do you understand the failure tolerant
=C2-=C2- design philosophy that all but guarantees you to
=C2-=C2- be free of bad electrical days in the cockpit?
=C2-=C2- * If a Z-figure is close but suffers a functional
=C2-=C2- deficiency for your mission requirements, how's the
=C2-=C2- best way to tweak the architecture?
=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2- The majority of participants here on the List do
=C2-=C2- understand failure tolerance. They're also privy to
=C2-=C2- all of the iterations that drove evolution of the
=C2-=C2- Z-figures (some have been revised a dozen times
=C2-=C2- or more).
=C2-=C2- Based on experience we can confidently assert
=C2-=C2- that the tangles have been pretty well combed out
=C2-=C2- of the Z-figures. But that doesn't mean than new
=C2-=C2- ideas, materials and processes won't cause them
=C2-=C2- to be modified again . . . perhaps many times in
=C2-=C2- the future.
=C2-=C2- I personally welcome any suggestions as to how
=C2-=C2- we may improve on the art and science of our
=C2-=C2- craft. But on several occasions, we have been
=C2-=C2- asked to evaluate a totally new configuration
=C2-=C2- from a builder that is worried about some pretty
=C2-=C2- small details . . . when in fact, there is risk
=C2-=C2- for some LARGE failures to maintain failure
=C2-=C2- tolerance.
=C2-=C2- These exercises can be time consuming and
=C2-=C2- I've got plenty of stuff on my plate. Please know
=C2-=C2- that my reluctance to engage in detailed studies
=C2-=C2- of new architectures has nothing to do with a
=C2-=C2- 'not invented here' syndrome; and everything
=C2-=C2- to do with hours in the day.
=C2-=C2- There are lots of learned, cool heads on the List
=C2-=C2- who can help move the discussion along.=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-
=C2- Bob . . .
Message 22
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| Subject: | Non fading black ink |
Most black dies are really dark, dark blue. True black, like india ink,
consist of lamp black (carbon) in water or another carrier and is not a dye
but forms a layer of carbon black on the substrate. We used to make
aircraft drawings on Vellum that did not fade. Jurgen
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring PTT Switches |
People often use single strand with shield.
It's not ultra-critical and will probably work fine as a pair of wires. The b
iggest consideration is reducing stress points so it doesn't break from flex
ing.
> On Sep 3, 2017, at 6:16 PM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> I need advice on how to wire the PTT switches for my plane. Here is a bit o
f the wiring diagram for the PDA360EX audio panel:
> <Selection_003.png>
>
> Clearly I have a shielded cable running from pins 33, 34, 35 on the PDA360
EX to the microphone jack in the instrument panel.
>
> What do I run to the PTT switch in the grip on the joystick? It looks like
an unshielded pair of wires to me.
>
> Thank you,
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what a
m I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring PTT Switches |
Two regular wires are fine, and will be easier to connect than messing
with a shield. There's nothing on the PTT lead except current-limited DC
voltage. When you push the PTT, it shorts that line to ground and the
radio detects that 'LO' as a signal to go into transmit mode.
Do look at that drawing carefully, before doing your wiring. At first
glance, I thought it was drawn wrong. Also, does the doc address making
sure the 'mic lo' terminal on the jack is isolated from the airframe?
Charlie
On 9/3/2017 5:40 PM, Daniel Hooper wrote:
> People often use single strand with shield.
>
> It's not ultra-critical and will probably work fine as a pair of
> wires. The biggest consideration is reducing stress points so it
> doesn't break from flexing.
>
> On Sep 3, 2017, at 6:16 PM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name
> <mailto:art@zemon.name>> wrote:
>
>> Folks,
>>
>> I need advice on how to wire the PTT switches for my plane. Here is a
>> bit of the wiring diagram for the PDA360EX audio panel:
>> <Selection_003.png>
>>
>> Clearly I have a shielded cable running from pins 33, 34, 35 on the
>> PDA360EX to the microphone jack in the instrument panel.
>>
>> What do I run to the PTT switch in the grip on the joystick? It looks
>> like an unshielded pair of wires to me.
>>
>> Thank you,
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>> --
>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>
>> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
>> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Non fading black ink |
John Cox
On Sep 3, 2017 15:40, "Janet Amtmann" <jgamtmann2@gmail.com> wrote:
> Most black dies are really dark, dark blue. True black, like india ink,
> consist of lamp black (carbon) in water or another carrier and is not a dye
> but forms a layer of carbon black on the substrate. We used to make
> aircraft drawings on Vellum that did not fade. Jurgen
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Magic marker "robustness" |
The guy who built my plane in 2000 used blue marker on white heat
shrink. While some are still legible, most of the ink has blossomed into
illegible blobs. I'm going to be rewiring the panel this Fall and I'm
going to redo all those label. I think the investment in a label maker
is probably worth it. Plus my handwriting is terrible anyway.
--Rick
Message 27
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| Subject: | Heat Shrink Labels for 20 AWG Wire |
Of the label printers that we have talked about, will the heat shrink tube
labels get small enough to label 20 gauge wire?
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Heat Shrink Labels for 20 AWG Wire |
I label #22 tefzel all the time with the Epson.
On Sep 3, 2017 20:18, "Art Zemon" <art@zemon.name> wrote:
> Of the label printers that we have talked about, will the heat shrink tube
> labels get small enough to label 20 gauge wire?
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring PTT Switches |
On Sun, Sep 3, 2017 at 6:50 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Two regular wires are fine, and will be easier to connect than messing
> with a shield. There's nothing on the PTT lead except current-limited DC
> voltage. When you push the PTT, it shorts that line to ground and the radio
> detects that 'LO' as a signal to go into transmit mode.
>
Charlie,
Sweet. Thanks for explaining.
> Do look at that drawing carefully, before doing your wiring. At first
> glance, I thought it was drawn wrong. Also, does the doc address making
> sure the 'mic lo' terminal on the jack is isolated from the airframe?
>
Yes, PS Engineering is explicit about isolating the jacks from the airframe
and about only grounding one end of the shield. Their docs are really good.
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Heat Shrink Labels for 20 AWG Wire |
Art,
The DYMO RHINO 4200 that I illustrated certainly will do 20 ga wire.
The LR3C-14 was wired with both 20 and 18 ga wire.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Sep 3, 2017, at 10:11 PM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
Of the label printers that we have talked about, will the heat shrink
tube labels get small enough to label 20 gauge wire?
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <https://cheerfulcurmudgeon.com/>
"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Magic marker "robustness" |
Look into the cost of heat shrink tubing for the printers. I just purchased
an Epson printer that only wastes 1/2 inch of tube per label. My old K Sun
wasted 2 inches per label. If you label both ends of every wire the extra
cost of the Epson printer will be covered by 100 to 150 percent.
On Sep 3, 2017 7:47 PM, "Rick Beebe" <rick@beebe.org> wrote:
>
> The guy who built my plane in 2000 used blue marker on white heat shrink.
> While some are still legible, most of the ink has blossomed into illegible
> blobs. I'm going to be rewiring the panel this Fall and I'm going to redo
> all those label. I think the investment in a label maker is probably worth
> it. Plus my handwriting is terrible anyway.
>
> --Rick
>
>
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