Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:33 AM - Re: Heat Shrink Labels for 20 AWG Wire (donjohnston)
2. 07:43 AM - Re: Re: Heat Shrink Labels for 20 AWG Wire ()
3. 04:09 PM - Re: Re: Non-aero app: 120/240 AC through 24vdc switch? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:12 PM - Re: Heat Shrink Labels for 20 AWG Wire (Ron Burnett)
5. 07:57 PM - Re: Troubleshooting 200G/ Z-17 (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Heat Shrink Labels for 20 AWG Wire |
donvansanten(at)gmail.com wrote:
> I am confused. K Sun sells many different diameters of tubing.Does Dymo only
sell one diameter?
They also sell 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" and 1".
You were asking about heat shrink tubing that would work on 20AWG wire. The Dymo
1/4" shink tubing works fine on 20AWG.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=472506#472506
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Heat Shrink Labels for 20 AWG Wire |
Better URL for the DYMO-RHINO shrink-tube: http://tinyurl.com/ydc642nj
Jim Parker
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Non-aero app: 120/240 AC through 24vdc switch? |
At 02:30 PM 9/4/2017, you wrote:
>
>
>DNA
>
>What I absolutely love about AEL.
>
>Thanks to both of you, Bob and Eric, for piquing
>my curiosity, making me stretch to expand my
>knowledge and skill set. The forum is in every
>way the embodiment of the adage, "Give a man a
>fish and he eats tonight. Teach him to fish...he
>and his family eat for a lifetime"
>
>I've got some 47 =CE=A9, 3A NTC thermistors I'm
>going to try, with the idea that I could,
>inexpensively, make up a bunch of low tech
>field-repair devices that can be installed with
>two wire nuts by users. For unshipped units
>henceforth, I plan to use the AC/AC SSR's until
>I can find a suitable, beefier power switch.
3A? Try to pick an NTC with (1) operating current
close to your measured running loads and (2) max
applied voltage of 120vac or greater. See
this for the nitty-gritty guidelines . . .
http://tinyurl.com/yahtoncs
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Heat Shrink Labels for 20 AWG Wire |
Art,
If you go to Gateway Electronics in Maryland Heights, you will walk out with
all the clear shrink wrap you need at very low prices. They also have thre
e sizes of clear spiral wrap for under the panel work. It is in a room to t
he right as you walk in and they cut it for you. Very inexpensive. They also
have ready made molex connectors that come in nearly any count.
Good luck,
Ron Burnett
May you have the Lord's blessings today!
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 3, 2017, at 10:20 PM, don van santen <donvansanten@gmail.com> wrote
:
>
> I label #22 tefzel all the time with the Epson.
>
>> On Sep 3, 2017 20:18, "Art Zemon" <art@zemon.name> wrote:
>> Of the label printers that we have talked about, will the heat shrink tub
e labels get small enough to label 20 gauge wire?
>>
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>> --
>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>
>> "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Troubleshooting 200G/ Z-17 |
All,
Just closing the loop on this discussion- after talking with both B&C
and Earth-X about this, I began to realize that what I was seeing was
normal behavior for this type of setup. I made the first flight of the
aircraft a couple weeks ago and now have about five hours of flight data
(engine monitor data) to look at. The voltage does start out low but
once takeoff power is applied, the voltage slowly climbs to 14.55V over
about a minute and remains there for the duration of the flight.
I have informed both companies of the outcome. Both have been excellent
to deal with- particularly B&C who sent me a new regulator when it
initially appeared that it was defective.
Hopefully this will help someone else in the future.
Regards,
Jeff Point
Milwaukee
On 7/11/17 10:04 PM, Jeff Point wrote:
>
> All,
>
> The good news from today is that I successfully ran my freshly
> overhauled O-200 today in preparation for a FAA inspection in a few
> weeks. The bad news is that I am getting no alternator output at
> all. The alternator is a B&C 200G PM dynamo, wired per Z-17 (no
> master contactor.) Running the engine between idle and 1800 RPM saw
> no change in bus voltage, which stayed at the same 13.1V as it did
> with the engine not running.
>
> Troubleshooting so far- besides checking all wiring connections, I
> verified that the OV relay is working and that I wired it correctly.
> I verified that the alternator's raw output was as expected (15-25VAC,
> increasing with speed.) I measured voltage at the capacitor (just
> downstream of the regulator) and it was the same 13.1 and did not vary
> with speed. Disconnecting the regulator I verified that there is zero
> volts coming out of the regulator, although I understand from the
> troubleshooting documents that it must have bus voltage applied in
> order to output, so I'm thinking this doesn't mean much.
>
> Is this as simple as a bad regulator? I'm going to call B & C first
> thing tomorrow but I thought I'd check here first.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jeff Point
>
> Milwaukee
>
>
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