Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:15 AM - Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Airdog77)
2. 04:44 AM - Re: Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Alec Myers)
3. 04:46 AM - Re: Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Alec Myers)
4. 09:36 AM - Re: B&C Alternator and Voltage Regulator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 11:04 AM - Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Eric Page)
6. 01:42 PM - Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Airdog77)
7. 02:47 PM - Re: Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Alec Myers)
8. 06:33 PM - Re: Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 06:51 PM - Re: Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Alec Myers)
10. 07:29 PM - Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Eric Page)
11. 07:44 PM - Re: Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Bill Maxwell)
12. 10:02 PM - Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Eric Page)
13. 10:48 PM - Re: Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Alec Myers)
14. 10:59 PM - Re: Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed splitter (Alec Myers)
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| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed |
splitter
Eric,
> Wade, if you're reading this, could you rig up this test with your EFIS and cameras
and let us know how it works?
I can. Be advised that it will be a 3-4 weeks. I just got my EFIS in hand and
then headed out the door for a 2-week trip. Working to get my panel together
and tested, so I still have all the wiring, cross-connects, etc. to do.
Sorry, wish I could be a better guinea pig, but still in plane building mode so
none of my panel is together... yet.
Cheers,
Wade
--------
Airdog
Wade Parton
Building Long-EZ 916WP
www.longezpush.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473638#473638
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| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera |
feed splitter
Lets use a 16F630.
It has enough pins to:
-use two buttons, which can be independently detected, and therefore pressed together
-use solder pads/jumpers for speed rather than a pot, therefore cheaper, reduction
in component count, and less board space. If you really want to twiddle something
use a coded rotary switch (which is roughly the same price as a pot) for
development and short the pads with solder blobs instead later
-have more than 4 cameras
Also strongly strongly recommend a SOIC package (cheapest) which is smaller and
still hand solderable. Fewer holes makes for an easier pcb too. Its 2017!
Happily the 16f630 is exactly the same price as the 12f683.
On Oct 17, 2017, at 00:45, Eric Page <edpav8r@yahoo.com> wrote:
I'm convinced that using a PIC is the way to go. I'd also like to give the CD4066
a try as the switch.
Once we hear from Wade that his EFIS and video adapter handle the camera feed switching
OK, I'll edit the schematic and work on a board layout. Then Alec/Paul
can write some code. Here's what I'd like to accomplish with the software:
1. At power-up, wait a bit for the regulator to settle, then read voltage on AN3/Pin3
and correlate to scan rate (0-5V = 2-10 sec per camera).
2. Start scanning at camera 1, then 2, 3, 4, 1, etc.
3. Monitor the switch(es) and respond as follows:
- Short press R or L: During scan mode, stop scan. During hold mode, advance one
camera forward (R) or back (L).
- Long press R or L: During scan mode, reverse scan direction if switch is moved
opposite to current scan direction. During hold mode, begin scan forward (R)
or back (L).
Installation with an (ON)-ON-(ON) toggle switch would work as above. Installation
with a single pushbutton would have the switch connected as the RIGHT position
of the toggle, and would function as follows:
- Short press: In scan mode, stop scan. In hold mode, increment by one camera.
- Long press: In scan mode, no change. In hold mode, begin scan from current camera.
I've done a quick demo layout with the PIC and CD4066, so I could figure out the
best GPIO assignments. See "Demo_Layout.jpg" below.
"Mode_Sw_AN2.jpg" below shows my best guess at how to attach the (ON)-ON-(ON) toggle
switch to AN2/Pin5. Please let me know if there's a better way to do it.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473636#473636
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/demo_layout_145.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/mode_sw_an2_270.jpg
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| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera |
feed splitter
And whichever PIC we use, make sure to provide access to the ICSP pins!
On Oct 17, 2017, at 00:45, Eric Page <edpav8r@yahoo.com> wrote:
I'm convinced that using a PIC is the way to go. I'd also like to give the CD4066
a try as the switch.
Once we hear from Wade that his EFIS and video adapter handle the camera feed switching
OK, I'll edit the schematic and work on a board layout. Then Alec/Paul
can write some code. Here's what I'd like to accomplish with the software:
1. At power-up, wait a bit for the regulator to settle, then read voltage on AN3/Pin3
and correlate to scan rate (0-5V = 2-10 sec per camera).
2. Start scanning at camera 1, then 2, 3, 4, 1, etc.
3. Monitor the switch(es) and respond as follows:
- Short press R or L: During scan mode, stop scan. During hold mode, advance one
camera forward (R) or back (L).
- Long press R or L: During scan mode, reverse scan direction if switch is moved
opposite to current scan direction. During hold mode, begin scan forward (R)
or back (L).
Installation with an (ON)-ON-(ON) toggle switch would work as above. Installation
with a single pushbutton would have the switch connected as the RIGHT position
of the toggle, and would function as follows:
- Short press: In scan mode, stop scan. In hold mode, increment by one camera.
- Long press: In scan mode, no change. In hold mode, begin scan from current camera.
I've done a quick demo layout with the PIC and CD4066, so I could figure out the
best GPIO assignments. See "Demo_Layout.jpg" below.
"Mode_Sw_AN2.jpg" below shows my best guess at how to attach the (ON)-ON-(ON) toggle
switch to AN2/Pin5. Please let me know if there's a better way to do it.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473636#473636
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/demo_layout_145.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/mode_sw_an2_270.jpg
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| Subject: | Re: B&C Alternator and Voltage Regulator |
At 07:57 PM 10/16/2017, you wrote:
>Hi Bob,
>
>I have a new B&C 60 amp alternator and the
>corresponding LR3C voltage regulator installed in an experimental Glastar.
>
>All components are new since I thought they were
>causing the over voltage problem. The ship has about 1600 hours TT.
>
>Direct to the problem:
>
>After I start the engine, the voltage steadily
>increases until the 5-amp field circuit trips, someplace over 15 volts.
>
>I=99ve gone through the Technical Manual for
>Model No. LR3C-14 and LR3C-28 Linear Regulator
>troubleshooting guide and the voltage and resistance checks meet standards.
>
>I=99ve also spent countless hours with TJ at B
>and C technical support trying to unravel this mystery.
>
>New parts include:
>BC460-H alternator
>LR3C-14 voltage regulator
>Battery master solenoid
>5-amp breaker
>2-amp breaker
>Toggle switch to activate the 5 and 2 amp breakers
>Wire and crimps
>3/8=9D ground braid cable
>
>I=99ve isolated the ship electrical system to:
> Sealed lead acid battery
> LR3C voltage regulator
> BC460-H 60 amp alternator
> Battery solenoid
>
>Power to energize the 5-amp and 2-amp voltage
>regulator, plus the magneto switch to activate
>the starter solenoid is directly off the battery.
>
>To start the engine, I use a clip lead to ground the master solenoid
switch.
>
>Nothing else is connected to the electrical system.
>
>I=99ve run a 3/8=9D ground braid cable from the
>alternator case to a brass ground bus bar. A
>second 3/8=9D ground braid cable runs from the
>battery to the steel frame, then to the brass
>bus bar with no splice in the middle.
>
>The voltage regulator is grounded with an 18-ga
>wire from the ground stud and Terminal #7 to the brass bus bar.
>
>Prior to isolating the ship=99s electrical bus,
>I observed the amps clearly charging the
>battery, initially a high amp draw, and
>eventually the amps decreased to a single digit
>number, but the voltage would continue to climb
>well above the 14.4 volt factory set point.
>
>Lastly;
>
>With the engine running (steadily increasing
>voltage) Pin 6 showed 15.7 volts while Pin 4
>showed 1.75 volts. Could this weird reading point to the problem?
>
>Pin 4 of 1.75 volts does not make sense.
>
>I=99m stumped! Can you offer me any insight?
>
>Matt Freeman
>Chugiak, AK
>907-863-2204 Cell
><mailto:AlaskaMatt@Hotmail.com>AlaskaMatt@Hotmail.com
Okay, let's extend your experiment a bit further.
First, disconnect system wiring to pin 3 (bus sense)
and jumper pin 3 to pin 6. Connect multimeter (-)
to pin 7, multimeter (+) to pin 3. Leave all
other wires to regulator per as originally
installed.
Start the engine and compare test voltage with
displayed voltages on the panel. Test voltage
should be stable at the regulator factory setpoint
and in close agreement with panel voltages.
Dismount the regulator and support it such that
the base is insulated from airframe. Disconnect
wire on pin 7 (ground) and run a new test wire
from 7 to some fastener on engine (we're looking
for a ground directly to crankcase).
Make the following connections to the regulator.
Disconnect existing wires from 6 and 3.
Jumper Pin 6 (field supply) and pin 3 (bus sense)
together. Then extend his connection to the alternator
B-terminal with a wire that has a 5A breaker in
the line.
This should make your alternator behave like a
'one-wire' machine where it gets excitation and
voltage sense from the b-terminal . . . further,
it comes on line immediately after engine starts.
The 1.75 volt value on pin 4 is not out of line.
This is the output to alternator field. This
voltage can be all over the place depending on
engine rpm and system loads.
The fact that your measured a value more than
zero but less than bus voltage says that the alternators
internal smarts are actively working to regulate
voltage. I have measured voltage on pin 4 as
low as 1.5 volts in cruising flight with light
loads.
With Hook your multimeter (-) to pin 7 ground.
With battery ON but engine not running, measure
voltage on pin (6) . . . it should be about 13.0
volts (battery voltage) then measure pin (4) which
should be about 1 volt lower. Exact number not
critical . . . it just needs to be high.
Hook multimeter (+) to pin (3/6) and start
the engine. The multimeter should immediately
rise to factory set point for the regulator . . .
14.2 volts or thereabouts and hold steady.
This will verify that the regulator/alternator
combination are capable of normal operations
independent of system variables. You can try
adding system loads and comparing voltage
on the multimeter with any voltage displays on
the panel. They should be in close agreement.
Assuming you are now seeing normal behavior,
return the regulator to its normal mounting
configuration, remove wire from 7 to crankcase.
Restore original system ground wire.
Restart the engine and see how the test
and panel voltages compare under variable system
loads.
If still good, remove jumper between 3 and 6.
Leave test wire from b-terminal to 6 in place
and restore original system bus sens wire to
pin 3.
Repeat the voltage measurements experiment
with engine off and running.
The final step would be to remove test wire
between 6 and b-terminal and restore system
filed supply source to pin 6.
At some point along these steps I would expect
to see the test and panel voltages to diverge.
The critter we're trying to chase out of the
woodpile is some anomaly in system wiring that
makes the regulator believe that bus voltage
is falling at pin 3 whereupon more voltage
is asserted on the field. Bus voltage then
rises to some point were pin 6 reached the
crowbar ov protection set point (15.8 to 16.4
volts).
The most likely sources for this divergence
are compromised conduction paths in either
bus sense, regulator ground or both.
Doing the hat-dance described above will help
us decide which gremlins are at work here.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed |
splitter
Airdog77 wrote:
> I can. Be advised that it will be a 3-4 weeks. I just got my EFIS in hand and
then headed out the door for a 2-week trip. Working to get my panel together
and tested, so I still have all the wiring, cross-connects, etc. to do.
No worries. I'm glad to hear you're not wiring your panel as we discuss this.
Time is our friend. Just let us know how it goes when you can.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473646#473646
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| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed |
splitter
Eric,
> Just let us know how it goes when you can.
Will do.
Cheers,
Wade
--------
Airdog
Wade Parton
Building Long-EZ N916WP
www.longezpush.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473647#473647
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| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera |
feed splitter
I just checked on the microchipdirect.com website. If you want Microchip to send
you pre-programmed parts, theres a set-up fee of $29, and a minimum order value
of $60. The parts are reasonably priced and the extra cost to program each
chip is between USD$0.10 and USD$0.15 for the range of chips weve been looking
at.
> On Oct 17, 2017, at 7:45 AM, Alec Myers <alec@alecmyers.com> wrote:
>
>
> And whichever PIC we use, make sure to provide access to the ICSP pins!
>
> On Oct 17, 2017, at 00:45, Eric Page <edpav8r@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm convinced that using a PIC is the way to go. I'd also like to give the CD4066
a try as the switch.
>
> Once we hear from Wade that his EFIS and video adapter handle the camera feed
switching OK, I'll edit the schematic and work on a board layout. Then Alec/Paul
can write some code. Here's what I'd like to accomplish with the software:
> 1. At power-up, wait a bit for the regulator to settle, then read voltage on
AN3/Pin3 and correlate to scan rate (0-5V = 2-10 sec per camera).
> 2. Start scanning at camera 1, then 2, 3, 4, 1, etc.
> 3. Monitor the switch(es) and respond as follows:
> - Short press R or L: During scan mode, stop scan. During hold mode, advance
one camera forward (R) or back (L).
> - Long press R or L: During scan mode, reverse scan direction if switch is moved
opposite to current scan direction. During hold mode, begin scan forward
(R) or back (L).
> Installation with an (ON)-ON-(ON) toggle switch would work as above. Installation
with a single pushbutton would have the switch connected as the RIGHT position
of the toggle, and would function as follows:
> - Short press: In scan mode, stop scan. In hold mode, increment by one camera.
> - Long press: In scan mode, no change. In hold mode, begin scan from current
camera.
> I've done a quick demo layout with the PIC and CD4066, so I could figure out
the best GPIO assignments. See "Demo_Layout.jpg" below.
>
> "Mode_Sw_AN2.jpg" below shows my best guess at how to attach the (ON)-ON-(ON)
toggle switch to AN2/Pin5. Please let me know if there's a better way to do
it.
>
> Eric
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473636#473636
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/demo_layout_145.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/mode_sw_an2_270.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera |
feed splitter
At 04:45 PM 10/17/2017, you wrote:
>
>I just checked on the microchipdirect.com
>website. If you want Microchip to send you
>pre-programmed parts, there=99s a set-up fee of
>$29, and a minimum order value of $60. The parts
>are reasonably priced and the extra cost to
>program each chip is between USD$0.10 and
>USD$0.15 for the range of chips we=99ve been looking at.
Programming a PIC is just slightly more
than a trivial task. You need a PIC KIT 3
programmer . .
http://tinyurl.com/ya66phql
which comes with the development/programming
software. If your project is fitted with
ICSP header, the cable supplied with the PIC KIT
drops right onto that header. If you wish to program
loose chips then you need universal chip to ICSP
adapter . . .
http://tinyurl.com/y7xt6am5
If one wishes to program SOIC chips before
installation, adapters are avaiable to
facilitate this task . . .
http://tinyurl.com/yazkcare
should deliberations on this project arrive
at some functional consensus in hardware
and performance, I'd be pleased to host the
data package defining the project.
I'll also offer to program DIP or SMD
chips at no charge beyond postage required
to return the chip(s).
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera |
feed splitter
In the fantasy world I enjoy inhabiting, where I=99ll happily
spend four days of engineering resource researching a different chip to
save $0.50 in parts costs (which really only makes sense when you
anticipate a production run of thousands, and let=99s be honest
how many people are going to build a video switcher?) it=99s nice
to know that you, Bob, don=99t need to commit to programming
10,000 PICs - there exists another option, even if it won=99t ever
be needed.
> On Oct 17, 2017, at 9:32 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
> At 04:45 PM 10/17/2017, you wrote:
<alec@alecmyers.com>
>>
>> I just checked on the microchipdirect.com website. If you want
Microchip to send you pre-programmed parts, there=C3=A2=C2=C2=99s a
set-up fee of $29, and a minimum order value of $60. The parts are
reasonably priced and the extra cost to program each chip is between
USD$0.10 and USD$0.15 for the range of chips we=C3=A2=C2=C2=99ve been
looking at.
>
>
> Programming a PIC is just slightly more
> than a trivial task. You need a PIC KIT 3
> programmer . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ya66phql <http://tinyurl.com/ya66phql>
>
>
> which comes with the development/programming
> software. If your project is fitted with
> ICSP header, the cable supplied with the PIC KIT
> drops right onto that header. If you wish to program
> loose chips then you need universal chip to ICSP
> adapter . . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/y7xt6am5 <http://tinyurl.com/y7xt6am5>
>
> If one wishes to program SOIC chips before
> installation, adapters are avaiable to
> facilitate this task . . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/yazkcare <http://tinyurl.com/yazkcare>
>
> should deliberations on this project arrive
> at some functional consensus in hardware
> and performance, I'd be pleased to host the
> data package defining the project.
>
> I'll also offer to program DIP or SMD
> chips at no charge beyond postage required
> to return the chip(s).
>
> Bob . . .
>
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| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed |
splitter
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
> If one wishes to program SOIC chips before installation, adapters are avaiable
to facilitate this task . . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/yazkcare
Yikes! They're available a LOT cheaper than that:
8-Pin: http://preview.tinyurl.com/yasq5txd
14-Pin: http://preview.tinyurl.com/y8ngbp3p
16-Pin: http://preview.tinyurl.com/y7ebhgb3
28-Pin: http://preview.tinyurl.com/y7wmacyr
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473658#473658
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| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera |
feed splitter
Actually, there are alternatives to the PIC KIT 3, cheaper too, although
the Chinese clones are cheaper than Microchip's genuine PIC KIT 3.
Bill
On 18/10/2017 12:49 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
> In the fantasy world I enjoy inhabiting, where Ill happily spend four
> days of engineering resource researching a different chip to save
> $0.50 in parts costs (which really only makes sense when you
> anticipate a production run of thousands, and lets be honest how many
> people are going to build a video switcher?) its nice to know that
> you, Bob, dont need to commit to programming 10,000 PICs - there
> exists another option, even if it wont ever be needed.
>
>
>> On Oct 17, 2017, at 9:32 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
>> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com
>> <mailto:nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>> wrote:
>>
>> At 04:45 PM 10/17/2017, you wrote:
>>> <alec@alecmyers.com <mailto:alec@alecmyers.com>>
>>>
>>> I just checked on the microchipdirect.com
>>> <http://microchipdirect.com> website. If you want Microchip to send
>>> you pre-programmed parts, theres a set-up fee of $29, and a
>>> minimum order value of $60. The parts are reasonably priced and the
>>> extra cost to program each chip is between USD$0.10 and USD$0.15 for
>>> the range of chips weve been looking at.
>>
>>
>> Programming a PIC is just slightly more
>> than a trivial task. You need a PIC KIT 3
>> programmer . .
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/ya66phql <http://tinyurl.com/ya66phql>
>>
>>
>> which comes with the development/programming
>> software. If your project is fitted with
>> ICSP header, the cable supplied with the PIC KIT
>> drops right onto that header. If you wish to program
>> loose chips then you need universal chip to ICSP
>> adapter . . .
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/y7xt6am5 <http://tinyurl.com/y7xt6am5>
>>
>> If one wishes to program SOIC chips before
>> installation, adapters are avaiable to
>> facilitate this task . . .
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/yazkcare <http://tinyurl.com/yazkcare>
>>
>> should deliberations on this project arrive
>> at some functional consensus in hardware
>> and performance, I'd be pleased to host the
>> data package defining the project.
>>
>> I'll also offer to program DIP or SMD
>> chips at no charge beyond postage required
>> to return the chip(s).
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera feed |
splitter
alec(at)alecmyers.com wrote:
> Lets use a 16F630.
>
> It has enough pins to:
> -use two buttons, which can be independently detected, and therefore pressed
together
> -use solder pads/jumpers for speed rather than a pot, therefore cheaper, reduction
in component count, and less board space. If you really want to twiddle
something use a coded rotary switch (which is roughly the same price as a pot)
for development and short the pads with solder blobs instead later
> -have more than 4 cameras
OK, PIC16F630 it is. That and another CD4066 to support eight cameras has exceeded
the space in any D-Sub backshell I could find, so I'll just design for a
flanged plastic box:
http://preview.tinyurl.com/yasdwhqh (http://preview.tinyurl.com/yasdwhqh)
After another quick-and-dirty layout test, the PIC pins shake out like this:
01: Vdd
02: Camera 3 Select
03: Camera 2 Select
04: Panel Switch (Left) / Vpp
05: Rate Program Switch
06: Camera 8 Select
07: Camera 5 Select
08: Camera 6 Select
09: Camera 7 Select
10: Cams Program Switch
11: Panel Switch (Right)
12: Camera 1 Select / ICSP Clock
13: Camera 4 Select / ICSP Data
14: Vss
I'd like to hide the programming functions behind DIP switches so the interface
for normal operation stays stone simple. Since there's no display or indicator
LEDs, I want no possibility of accidentally entering a programming mode. I
see the two programming DIP switches working like this:
- To set number of cameras, the installer closes the Cams Program Switch, then
powers up the unit. It displays Camera 1 in hold mode. The installer uses the
Panel Switch (Right) to increment through each camera until the last one is
displayed, then opens the Cams Program Switch to tell the PIC to save the number
of cameras to non-volatile memory. The installer then cycles power and it
reads the saved number of cameras from memory and begins normal operation. [The
PIC could be programmed with a zero in this memory cell, which would make it
enter this mode automatically at power-up, until a non-zero number is saved.]
- To set scan rate, the installer closes the Rate Program Switch, then powers up
the unit. It goes into scan mode and Panel Switches (Left) and (Right) increment
and decrement the scan delay time (in 1 sec steps, between 2 and 10 sec).
When the desired time is achieved, the installer opens the Rate Program Switch,
which tells the PIC to save the rate to non-volatile memory. The installer
then cycles power and it reads the saved scan rate from memory and begins normal
operation. [Again, a default value could be programmed. Say, 5 sec.]
> Also strongly strongly recommend a SOIC package (cheapest) which is smaller and
still hand solderable. Fewer holes makes for an easier pcb too. Its 2017!
I would use all SMD parts in a heartbeat if I were designing this for myself or
a limited audience of people with the right soldering equipment and skill. I
agree SOIC parts are easy to solder, but you and I have used a lot of them.
For an airplane builder whose soldering experience might be limited to joining
wires together, and who doesn't have a magnifier lamp or microscope, a SOIC part
is going to be a source of massive frustration. To say nothing of the 0603
or 0805 passives that go along with it. Besides, the price premium for DIP-vs-SOIC
is $0.14. We ain't going into high-rate production here! Besides, DIP
packages give me lots of room to run ground pours between all of the video signal
traces.
> And whichever PIC we use, make sure to provide access to the ICSP pins!
Noted.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473660#473660
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| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera |
feed splitter
How about have the rate program mode entered by powering up with the right button
held down, and the camera quantity select mode entered by powering up with
the left button held down. That saves two pins and a dip switch.
That also means that you can still reprogram the unit without physical access,
and theres still little to no chance of accidentally or ham-fistedly entering
a programming mode. Just dont lean on the panel when you power up the avionics.
If were really really really paranoid, have a single dip switch - in fact might
as well make it a track that can be cut or a solder pad that can be bridged
- to prevent any programming.
Im still conscious of and sensitive to the charge of excessive and unwarranted
buttonology. Why dont we set the un-initialized defaults at 4 cams, and your choice
of 5 second period. Then if you dont care do any programming at all, it
does something useful, and you get 4 cameras off the bat (or even two, or three,
with appropriate solder blob shorts between Cams 1 and 3, and 2 and 4) And
if you have only the right button you can still adjust the scan speed.
Other than that:
Short press: freeze
Second and subsequent short press: advance to next or retard to previous camera
Long press: resume scan in selected direction.
Re pinout:
RA0, RA1, RA2, RA4 and RA5 are the only pins with weak pull-ups available so those
should be the ones used for button, pad or dip inputs. That is, pins 11, 12,
13, 2 and 3.
So we should move the left panel switch from pin 4. (RA3). During serial programming
Vpp (RA3) is raised to 12v, so whatever is connected to that pin must be
capable of sustaining this high voltage without pulling it down or being damaged.
It may be better to leave RA3 open circuit other than a pad for programming.
> On Oct 18, 2017, at 1:02 AM, Eric Page <edpav8r@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> alec(at)alecmyers.com wrote:
>> Lets use a 16F630.
>>
>> It has enough pins to:
>> -use two buttons, which can be independently detected, and therefore pressed
together
>> -use solder pads/jumpers for speed rather than a pot, therefore cheaper, reduction
in component count, and less board space. If you really want to twiddle
something use a coded rotary switch (which is roughly the same price as a pot)
for development and short the pads with solder blobs instead later
>> -have more than 4 cameras
>
>
> OK, PIC16F630 it is. That and another CD4066 to support eight cameras has exceeded
the space in any D-Sub backshell I could find, so I'll just design for
a flanged plastic box:
>
> http://preview.tinyurl.com/yasdwhqh (http://preview.tinyurl.com/yasdwhqh)
>
> After another quick-and-dirty layout test, the PIC pins shake out like this:
>
> 01: Vdd
> 02: Camera 3 Select
> 03: Camera 2 Select
> 04: Panel Switch (Left) / Vpp
> 05: Rate Program Switch
> 06: Camera 8 Select
> 07: Camera 5 Select
> 08: Camera 6 Select
> 09: Camera 7 Select
> 10: Cams Program Switch
> 11: Panel Switch (Right)
> 12: Camera 1 Select / ICSP Clock
> 13: Camera 4 Select / ICSP Data
> 14: Vss
>
> I'd like to hide the programming functions behind DIP switches so the interface
for normal operation stays stone simple. Since there's no display or indicator
LEDs, I want no possibility of accidentally entering a programming mode.
I see the two programming DIP switches working like this:
>
> - To set number of cameras, the installer closes the Cams Program Switch, then
powers up the unit. It displays Camera 1 in hold mode. The installer uses
the Panel Switch (Right) to increment through each camera until the last one is
displayed, then opens the Cams Program Switch to tell the PIC to save the number
of cameras to non-volatile memory. The installer then cycles power and it
reads the saved number of cameras from memory and begins normal operation.
[The PIC could be programmed with a zero in this memory cell, which would make
it enter this mode automatically at power-up, until a non-zero number is saved.]
>
> - To set scan rate, the installer closes the Rate Program Switch, then powers
up the unit. It goes into scan mode and Panel Switches (Left) and (Right) increment
and decrement the scan delay time (in 1 sec steps, between 2 and 10 sec).
When the desired time is achieved, the installer opens the Rate Program Switch,
which tells the PIC to save the rate to non-volatile memory. The installer
then cycles power and it reads the saved scan rate from memory and begins
normal operation. [Again, a default value could be programmed. Say, 5 sec.]
>
>
>> Also strongly strongly recommend a SOIC package (cheapest) which is smaller
and still hand solderable. Fewer holes makes for an easier pcb too. Its 2017!
>
>
> I would use all SMD parts in a heartbeat if I were designing this for myself
or a limited audience of people with the right soldering equipment and skill.
I agree SOIC parts are easy to solder, but you and I have used a lot of them.
For an airplane builder whose soldering experience might be limited to joining
wires together, and who doesn't have a magnifier lamp or microscope, a SOIC
part is going to be a source of massive frustration. To say nothing of the 0603
or 0805 passives that go along with it. Besides, the price premium for DIP-vs-SOIC
is $0.14. We ain't going into high-rate production here! Besides,
DIP packages give me lots of room to run ground pours between all of the video
signal traces.
>
>
>> And whichever PIC we use, make sure to provide access to the ICSP pins!
>
> Noted.
>
> Eric
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473660#473660
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Constructing an automatic RCA video camera |
feed splitter
On second thoughts - if we want to use every single pin then it makes sense to
have RA3 as one of the dip, pad, or button inputs. (I cant see a video chip being
happy with +12V applied to an input pin with the PIC is programmed.) But then
it must have an external pullup resistor, Something like 100k.
> On Oct 18, 2017, at 1:02 AM, Eric Page <edpav8r@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> alec(at)alecmyers.com wrote:
>> Lets use a 16F630.
>>
>> It has enough pins to:
>> -use two buttons, which can be independently detected, and therefore pressed
together
>> -use solder pads/jumpers for speed rather than a pot, therefore cheaper, reduction
in component count, and less board space. If you really want to twiddle
something use a coded rotary switch (which is roughly the same price as a pot)
for development and short the pads with solder blobs instead later
>> -have more than 4 cameras
>
>
> OK, PIC16F630 it is. That and another CD4066 to support eight cameras has exceeded
the space in any D-Sub backshell I could find, so I'll just design for
a flanged plastic box:
>
> http://preview.tinyurl.com/yasdwhqh (http://preview.tinyurl.com/yasdwhqh)
>
> After another quick-and-dirty layout test, the PIC pins shake out like this:
>
> 01: Vdd
> 02: Camera 3 Select
> 03: Camera 2 Select
> 04: Panel Switch (Left) / Vpp
> 05: Rate Program Switch
> 06: Camera 8 Select
> 07: Camera 5 Select
> 08: Camera 6 Select
> 09: Camera 7 Select
> 10: Cams Program Switch
> 11: Panel Switch (Right)
> 12: Camera 1 Select / ICSP Clock
> 13: Camera 4 Select / ICSP Data
> 14: Vss
>
> I'd like to hide the programming functions behind DIP switches so the interface
for normal operation stays stone simple. Since there's no display or indicator
LEDs, I want no possibility of accidentally entering a programming mode.
I see the two programming DIP switches working like this:
>
> - To set number of cameras, the installer closes the Cams Program Switch, then
powers up the unit. It displays Camera 1 in hold mode. The installer uses
the Panel Switch (Right) to increment through each camera until the last one is
displayed, then opens the Cams Program Switch to tell the PIC to save the number
of cameras to non-volatile memory. The installer then cycles power and it
reads the saved number of cameras from memory and begins normal operation.
[The PIC could be programmed with a zero in this memory cell, which would make
it enter this mode automatically at power-up, until a non-zero number is saved.]
>
> - To set scan rate, the installer closes the Rate Program Switch, then powers
up the unit. It goes into scan mode and Panel Switches (Left) and (Right) increment
and decrement the scan delay time (in 1 sec steps, between 2 and 10 sec).
When the desired time is achieved, the installer opens the Rate Program Switch,
which tells the PIC to save the rate to non-volatile memory. The installer
then cycles power and it reads the saved scan rate from memory and begins
normal operation. [Again, a default value could be programmed. Say, 5 sec.]
>
>
>> Also strongly strongly recommend a SOIC package (cheapest) which is smaller
and still hand solderable. Fewer holes makes for an easier pcb too. Its 2017!
>
>
> I would use all SMD parts in a heartbeat if I were designing this for myself
or a limited audience of people with the right soldering equipment and skill.
I agree SOIC parts are easy to solder, but you and I have used a lot of them.
For an airplane builder whose soldering experience might be limited to joining
wires together, and who doesn't have a magnifier lamp or microscope, a SOIC
part is going to be a source of massive frustration. To say nothing of the 0603
or 0805 passives that go along with it. Besides, the price premium for DIP-vs-SOIC
is $0.14. We ain't going into high-rate production here! Besides,
DIP packages give me lots of room to run ground pours between all of the video
signal traces.
>
>
>> And whichever PIC we use, make sure to provide access to the ICSP pins!
>
> Noted.
>
> Eric
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473660#473660
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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