Today's Message Index:
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1. 03:16 AM - Electronics ignition harness (Achille)
2. 04:55 AM - Re: Electronics ignition harness (Werner Schneider)
3. 06:20 AM - Re: Ray Allen Trim Servos and Garmin GAD 27 (The Kuffels)
4. 11:45 AM - voltage fluctuations (erich weaver)
5. 02:15 PM - Re: voltage fluctuations (user9253)
6. 05:25 PM - Re: voltage fluctuations (erich weaver)
7. 05:43 PM - Re: voltage fluctuations (user9253)
8. 06:37 PM - Re: Re: voltage fluctuations (Charlie England)
Message 1
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Subject: | Electronics ignition harness |
Hello,
Finishing to wire the Z19RB on my plane, I have a problem to resolve... the latest
before flying again ! [Rolling Eyes] :P
Something is missing between sparks and ignition coil... And to chose with my lack
of knoweldge about this kind of technologie I'm a bit lost.
I bought 2 electronics ignition from a UK shop (Leburg ignition) for my Vw 1835cc
engine, and I just have in the user manuel :
"Use only plug leads with high resistance (carbon) cores. Expect damage to the
controllers if you use copper cored leads"
I am unable to have from the seller another information (no very professional for
a shop...)
And I don't want to take a bad part and to risk ignition blow. What kind of wire,
boots and sparks (resistance or whitout resistance) I have to use with this
kind of ignition knowing that I just have to use (and to find !) wire with carbon
cores ?
I find an un-official source (forum) that, in the past, the conceptor of this ignition
told that we have to use a resistance from 5Kohm (minimum) to 10Kohm.
(But we couldn't ask him the question anymore...)
I don't know if it's good choice, but for the moment I was thinking about to use
silicone/steel wire (2,3 ft that is around 4Kohm resistance with this kind of
wire :
http://www.classicautoelec.com/fr/fil-haute-tension/1975-fil-haute-tension-silicone-rsistif-beru.html )
and sparks with a 5 Kohm resistance), to reach around 7,5 Kohms total resistance
for each wire. (But it's not carbon core wire [Rolling Eyes] )
I will appreciate your point of view.
Thank you.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474463#474463
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Electronics ignition harness |
Hi,
if you click on their link for leads, you get to another UK company and
they refer to their HT leads being made from Ferroflex and Maglite cables.
searching them you should be able to find the material.
e.g. http://www.gsparkplug.com/ignition/ignition-lead/graphite-resisted-core
Good luck ;)
Werner
On 06.11.2017 12:15, Achille wrote:
>
>
> I bought 2 electronics ignition from a UK shop (Leburg ignition) for my Vw
1835cc engine, and I just have in the user manuel :
>
> "Use only plug leads with high resistance (carbon) cores.
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Ray Allen Trim Servos and Garmin GAD 27 |
<< RAC actuators ... I think they draw about 100 mA. >>
What I measured, with a large scale ammeter, was under 200 mA (first mark)
so "about 100 mA" sounds correct.
Tom Kuffel
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Message 4
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Subject: | voltage fluctuations |
I have my RV-7A wired per Z-13/8. I sometimes observe rapidly fluctuating voltage,
varying from approximately 13.0 to 14.0 V, as indicated on my EFIS display.
I figured it was just a loose connection at the EFIS, but I hooked up a voltage
meter to the battery terminals and ran the engine and observed similar occasional
fluctuations, so the problem lies elsewhere. I then tested voltage
at pin 6 on my B&C LRC voltage regulator with the engine off and the master on,
and observed a voltage of about 11.9 V. However, when I remove the wire from
my master switch that feeds pin 6 and test voltage on it, I get the expected
13 V. The voltage drop is only observed after connecting the wire to the voltage
regulator. B&C specs say the voltage drop should be 0.2V or less. Is my
regulator bad and is this the cause of my voltage fluctuations?
thanks
Erich
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474480#474480
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: voltage fluctuations |
If I am interpreting your voltage measurements correctly, it sounds like the master
switch contacts or terminals have high resistance. Make sure the terminals
are tight and cycle the master switch on and off many times to wear away corrosion.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474481#474481
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Subject: | Re: voltage fluctuations |
No, when I measure voltage at the regulator end of the wire, but with it disconnected
from the regulator, I see the full 13 V. When I reconnect the wire to
the regulator and measure the voltage again at the pin 6 terminal, it drops to
11.9 V. Measurements were repeated several times to confirm.
Erich
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474486#474486
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Subject: | Re: voltage fluctuations |
OK Erich. That confirms my interpretation. There is a problem with the master
switch or its connections. If you do not believe me, connect that wire to a
test lamp instead of to regulator terminal 6. The lamp should be as high wattage
as possible without blowing the fuse or tripping the breaker. If the voltage
drops at the end of that wire, then there is resistance someplace in the circuit.
If the connections are all good, then replace the master switch.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474487#474487
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: voltage fluctuations |
If his VOM has a 10 amp DC current range, he could just put it in series
with that wire & check the current going through the regulator.
(I agree that it's probably a bad switch, or crimp, etc.)
On 11/6/2017 7:43 PM, user9253 wrote:
>
> OK Erich. That confirms my interpretation. There is a problem with the master
switch or its connections. If you do not believe me, connect that wire to
a test lamp instead of to regulator terminal 6. The lamp should be as high wattage
as possible without blowing the fuse or tripping the breaker. If the voltage
drops at the end of that wire, then there is resistance someplace in the
circuit. If the connections are all good, then replace the master switch.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
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