Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 06:45 AM - Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists (Matt Dralle)
1. 06:24 AM - Fuse link (JOHN TIPTON)
2. 07:21 AM - Re: voltage fluctuations (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 09:58 AM - Re: Fuse link (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 02:57 PM - Re: voltage fluctuations (erich weaver)
5. 04:27 PM - Re: Fuse link (John Tipton)
6. 04:51 PM - Re: voltage fluctuations (user9253)
7. 05:05 PM - Re: Product Review - Voltmeter (Sebastien)
8. 05:12 PM - Re: Re: voltage fluctuations (Charlie England)
9. 05:32 PM - Re: Electronics ignition harness (Achille)
10. 06:09 PM - Re: Product Review - Voltmeter (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 06:14 PM - Re: Re: voltage fluctuations (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 06:15 PM - Re: Fuse link (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 10:20 PM - Re: Re: Electronics ignition harness (Werner Schneider)
14. 10:20 PM - Re: voltage fluctuations (erich weaver)
Message 0
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| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
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Message 1
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Hi - My A/p control unit is placed on the left panel, the wire call-out is 22AWG
with 5amp fuse or C/b, I'm going to put a C/b on the right panel, to serve as
isolation or quick disconnect from co-pilot side, with the total run about 4
feet, C/b at mid point, do I up the wire to 18AWG, and put a 22AWG fuse link
at the un-fused bus - regards: John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474498#474498
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: voltage fluctuations |
At 01:44 PM 11/6/2017, you wrote:
><erich.weaver@aecom.com>
>
>I have my RV-7A wired per Z-13/8. I sometimes observe rapidly
>fluctuating voltage, varying from approximately 13.0 to 14.0 V, as
>indicated on my EFIS display. I figured it was just a loose
>connection at the EFIS, but I hooked up a voltage meter to the
>battery terminals and ran the engine and observed similar occasional
>fluctuations, so the problem lies elsewhere.
I am presuming that this is a new condition . . . that
you've enjoyed some period of normal operations from
your alternator system.
What was the voltage when the system was operating normally?
The legacy choice of set point for lead-acid systems and
RG batteries if 14.2 to 14.6V
> I then tested voltage at pin 6 on my B&C LRC voltage regulator
> with the engine off and the master on, and observed a voltage of
> about 11.9 V. However, when I remove the wire from my master
> switch that feeds pin 6 and test voltage on it, I get the expected
> 13 V. The voltage drop is only observed after connecting the wire
> to the voltage regulator. B&C specs say the voltage drop should be
> 0.2V or less. Is my regulator bad and is this the cause of my
> voltage fluctuations?
Voltage drop in pin 6 power generally
don't cause large excursions of bus voltage.
This is power pin for field current . . .
not bus voltage sensing.
As an experiment, disconnect pins 6 and 3
from ship's wiring. Jumper 6 and 3 together.
Put a 10A fuse in a temporary line from
3/6 to the alternator B-terminal.
Start the engine. Alternator will come on
line immediately. Observe bus voltage. If
not 14.2 minimum, adjust LR regulator to
achieve 14.4 volts.
Turn on system loads and observe that
bus voltage is still 14.0 to 14.4 volts.
This will confirm/deny proper opreation of
your B&C equipment.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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At 08:22 AM 11/7/2017, you wrote:
><jmtipton@btopenworld.com>
>
>Hi - My A/p control unit is placed on the left panel, the wire
>call-out is 22AWG with 5amp fuse or C/b, I'm going to put a C/b on
>the right panel, to serve as isolation or quick disconnect from
>co-pilot side, with the total run about 4 feet, C/b at mid point, do
>I up the wire to 18AWG, and put a 22AWG fuse link at the un-fused
>bus - regards: John
The a/p control head doesn't have a power switch on it?
Don't understand the need for pressing breakers into
service as failure mitigation devices. What kind of a/p
are we talking about?
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: voltage fluctuations |
yes, I didnt see such fluctuations in the past, at least not as large. Ive noticed
it recently because my EFIS warns me when voltage falls to 13 V.
I dont understand the logic behind the earlier posts indicating that there is likely
a problem in the master switch or the the wire from it to pin 6 of the regulator.
Not saying thats wrong, just that I dont understand it. The wire clearly
is not at fault because I see no voltage drop from one end to the other
when disconnected from the regulator; voltage drop only occurs when connected
to the regulator.
As currently wired, there is a jumper between pin 3 and 6. During past "normal"
operation I believe my indicated operating voltage was somewhere in the 13.5-14.0
range. I attributed the slightly low values to diodes within the Grand
Rapids EFIS and/or EIS that dropped the voltage slightly. Not entirely sure that
is correct however.
I will try Bob's suggestion of the temporary wire to the alternator B-terminal
and monitoring buss voltage this weekend and report back.
thanks guys
Erich
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474588#474588
Message 5
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As mentioned, the C/b was going to be there to isolate the A/p on the copilo
t side, the pilots stick has a servo disconnect button - the A/p is a Trio e
z-pilot
John
Sent from my iPad
----x--O--x----
> On 7 Nov 2017, at 3:18 pm, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelect
ric.com> wrote:
>
> At 08:22 AM 11/7/2017, you wrote:
rld.com>
>>
>> Hi - My A/p control unit is placed on the left panel, the wire call-out i
s 22AWG with 5amp fuse or C/b, I'm going to put a C/b on the right panel, to
serve as isolation or quick disconnect from co-pilot side, with the total r
un about 4 feet, C/b at mid point, do I up the wire to 18AWG, and put a 22AW
G fuse link at the un-fused bus - regards: John
>
> The a/p control head doesn't have a power switch on it?
> Don't understand the need for pressing breakers into
> service as failure mitigation devices. What kind of a/p
> are we talking about?
>
>
==========================
==========================
==========================
==========================
==========================
==========================
======================
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: voltage fluctuations |
The logic is based on ohms law. E=IR In other words, voltage drop is equal to
current times resistance. There should be very little resistance between the
battery and terminal 6 of the voltage regulator. Let's call it zero ohms. So
the voltage drop is equal to current times zero, or zero voltage drop. Since
the voltage drop is actually 1 volt or more, then the resistance is not zero
between the battery and terminal 6. The most likely places to find resistance
is the master switch or its terminals or else a fuse or circuit breaker, whatever
is in the circuit. The easiest way to find the voltage drop (and resistance)
is with a voltmeter. Of course the voltage regulator needs to be turned
on during this test. Connect the black meter lead to terminal 6 and probe the
circuit with the red meter lead backwards towards the battery. If the voltmeter
displays more than a couple of tenths of a volt, then the problem has been
located.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474593#474593
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Product Review - Voltmeter |
I got a cheap one from overseas. It's accurate but after a couple flights a
few of the LED segments dropped out. I might order another one and see.
=8B
On Wed, Aug 23, 2017 at 1:28 PM, C&K <yellowduckduo@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Yes I have to shield those with my hand to read them on outdoor equipment
> but they seem durable and are available even cheaper and with free delive
ry
> if you don't mind the wait from overseas.
> Ken
>
>
> On 23/08/2017 1:52 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>>
>> A few weeks back we had some discussion about
>> digital voltmeters. I opined that the 'net
>> sources for such devices were legion but
>> expressed some warm fuzzies about easy to
>> mount, easy to wire, good performance
>> and, of course, cheap!
>>
>>
>> Found this guy on eBay
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/ycrez6hh
>>
>> Ordered in a couple to play with. They
>> seem meet all the qualifications for
>> warm fuzzy status.
>>
>> Both articles were within 0.1 volt of
>> true at 14.2 volts. They mount in ROUND
>> holes and wire in with 1/4" fast-ons.
>>
>> At $8 each, they're not expensive. The only
>> potential down side is sun-light viewability.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: voltage fluctuations |
The logic is that if there's high series resistance (flaky contacts in a
switch, bad crimp, corrosion in a joint, etc), then there will be
voltage drop across that resistance when a load is applied. The amount
of the voltage drop will depend on the current demanded by the load.
When the load is removed completely (wire disconnected from the load),
there will be no voltage drop across the resistance.
Here's another check you can make for high resistance in that circuit:
While the system is on and operating, use your voltmeter to measure
between the a/c main bus and pin 6 of the regulator. You should measure
near zero volts. If the measurement is anything higher than a tenth of a
volt or so, you've got high resistance somewhere between the supply and
the regulator.
On 11/7/2017 4:55 PM, erich weaver wrote:
>
> yes, I didnt see such fluctuations in the past, at least not as large. Ive noticed
it recently because my EFIS warns me when voltage falls to 13 V.
>
> I dont understand the logic behind the earlier posts indicating that there is
likely a problem in the master switch or the the wire from it to pin 6 of the
regulator. Not saying thats wrong, just that I dont understand it. The wire
clearly is not at fault because I see no voltage drop from one end to the other
when disconnected from the regulator; voltage drop only occurs when connected
to the regulator.
>
> As currently wired, there is a jumper between pin 3 and 6. During past "normal"
operation I believe my indicated operating voltage was somewhere in the 13.5-14.0
range. I attributed the slightly low values to diodes within the Grand
Rapids EFIS and/or EIS that dropped the voltage slightly. Not entirely sure
that is correct however.
>
> I will try Bob's suggestion of the temporary wire to the alternator B-terminal
and monitoring buss voltage this weekend and report back.
>
> thanks guys
>
> Erich
>
---
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Electronics ignition harness |
Thank you Werner,
I will contact them. I didn't know this website.
I have contacted before fastelane.ltd as told in the aviation seller website but...
they don't want to sell their products for aviation use. [Shocked]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474598#474598
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Product Review - Voltmeter |
At 07:02 PM 11/7/2017, you wrote:
>I got a cheap one from overseas. It's accurate but after a couple
>flights a few of the LED segments dropped out. I might order another
>one and see.
Good feedback! I've got two that I'm converting to AC ammeters
for Dr. Dee's cotton candy machines. Won't put many hours
on them until next school carnival season. I'll get a couple
more in an wire them up in my vehicles . . .
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: voltage fluctuations |
>As currently wired, there is a jumper between pin 3 and 6.
Aha! You really want to consider running separate
wires for Field supply (pin 6) and bus sense (Pin 3).
Separate power and sense paths are essential for meeting
the regulator's design goals. Furhter, if you trip the
ov system in the regulator with 3 tied to 6, you loose
low voltage warning.
> During past "normal" operation I believe my indicated operating
> voltage was somewhere in the 13.5-14.0 range. I attributed the
> slightly low values to diodes within the Grand Rapids EFIS and/or
> EIS that dropped the voltage slightly. Not entirely sure that is
> correct however.
Are you running an e-bus? Is the EFIS on the main bus or e-bus?
The e-bus normal operating voltage is 0.5 to 0.7 volts LOWER than
the main bus so perhaps your EFIS does not speak with forked tongue.
>I will try Bob's suggestion of the temporary wire to the alternator
>B-terminal and monitoring buss voltage this weekend and report back.
Okay, that's MAIN bus voltage, not E-BUS
Bob . . .
Message 12
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At 06:24 PM 11/7/2017, you wrote:
>As mentioned, the C/b was going to be there to isolate the A/p on
>the copilot side, the pilots stick has a servo disconnect button -
>the A/p is a Trio ez-pilot
Not sure what 'isolate' means . . . is it your desire
to place an a/p disconnect feature in reach of the
copilot?
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Electronics ignition harness |
Oh, your not using your Leburg ignition in a "sand dune buggy" or trike
(with wings) [Laughing]
Werner
On 08.11.2017 02:31, Achille wrote:
> ... they don't want to sell their products for aviation use. [Shocked]
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: voltage fluctuations |
Ok, will revise wiring to eliminate the pin 3 to pin 6 jumper. Did the wiring
back in 2007 or so, and don't remember my reasoning for using the jumper, but
I didn't make deviations from B&C instructions on a whim. Not important now.
The EFIS is powered from the e-bus, which I realize now will have a slight voltage
drop due to the diode, so I should expect somewhere around 13.7 to 14 V at
the buss with engine running. Still not sure if there would be additional voltage
drop from a diode internal to the EFIS.
Thanks
E.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474611#474611
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