Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:03 PM - Re: Engine ground on RV 10 (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
2. 05:12 PM - Re: Re: Polyfuses (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 05:00 PM - Re: Re: Diodes vs. Bi-Directional Zeners for Contactors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 05:10 PM - Re: B (Henador Titzoff)
5. 05:23 PM - Re: B (peter laurence)
6. 05:42 PM - Re: B (Ron Quillin)
7. 07:46 AM - Re: Mounting Holes for B&C Fuse Blocks (JOHN TIPTON)
8. 08:48 AM - Re: Re: Mounting Holes for B&C Fuse Blocks (Art Zemon)
9. 10:23 AM - Re: unable to receive auyomatic list e-mails (Martymason)
10. 12:06 PM - stacking ring terminals or ? (Ken Ryan)
11. 12:24 PM - E-mail (BobbyPaulk@comcast.net)
12. 02:37 PM - Re: stacking ring terminals or ? (user9253)
13. 02:40 PM - Re: unable to receive auyomatic list e-mails (user9253)
14. 09:03 PM - Seeking Prior Discussion On Adding Rotax External Alternator (jnmeade)
15. 05:36 PM - Re: Vertical Power? (BobsV35B@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Engine ground on RV 10 |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> That's ONE braided jumper strap (or 2AWG welding cable
> with terminals and heat-shrink) and as many thin, flat, sheet
> metal bonding straps as you have shock mounts (usually
> 4).
Bob, I want to do that on my RV10. I have the forest of tabs on the
firewall which has an 8AWG wire running back to the battery. I'll run a
braided jumper strap from the bolt on the forest of tabs to wherever
it's best connect it to the IO540 crankcase. And I understand it
doesen't really ground the engine as much as it grounds the forest of tabs.
But what do the 4 "thin flat sheet metal bonding straps" look like? I'm
imagining something forming an arc around the non-conductive shock
mounts but I've never seen this and can't find a reference. Can you
elaborate a bit here or point me to the photos you probably have out on
your site? Is this something I fabricate or buy?
If anyone can help me identify the ground lug on the RV10 engine mount
or the best place to attach a ground on the crankcase, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks.
Bill "ready to hang the engine" Watson
Message 2
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At 07:56 AM 3/12/2009, you wrote:
>Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Let me see if I can refresh your memory. Because of the
> undocumented crowbar "feature" in the LSE ignitions that came to
> light recently, you had suggested using a relay to provide power to
> an unprotected wire in the case of a rear mounted battery.
Is the crowbar feature for real? Somebody else mentioned that
they thought this was a mis-understanding of some variety.
You LSE customers should be curious/concerned about this . . .
which one is going to call/write LSE and find out?
> The concern was that the LSE could cause a trip/blow in an OV
> situation however the ignition would be fine and require a
> reset. In a rear mounted battery the only way to accommodate this
> need to reset was to put a breaker up on the panel but this left an
> unprotected line from the battery to the CB. You suggested a
> standard relay would be the best way to address this and I didn't
> like the additional complexity in addition to replacing one
> potential failure mode with another.
> It seems to me that a Polyfuse would address the need to reset a
> nuisance trip and allow the protection to stay back by the battery
> without needing to add relays (more wires, additional failure
> points, and additional switches) or big fuses/fat wires to get a CB
> up within arm's reach.
Okay, I remember. Yeah, the polyfuse looks attractive
for this. You might even consider a switch-breaker for
the panel mounted control . . . or even just a switch.
The wire-protection issue is covered with the polyfuse.
Now . . . about that robust mounting. Let me think about
this a bit. We could use the same technique for the
NTC inrush limiters too. They have the same mounting
challenge.
I've got to place an order with Digikey tomorrow for
some project parts. I'll get both NTC and PTC devices
coming and see if we can figure out a way to make these
things suitable for the aircraft installation.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Diodes vs. Bi-Directional Zeners for Contactors |
At 01:00 PM 10/12/2009, you wrote:
><colyncase@earthlink.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>I agree with you about being prepared for any contactor to fail and
>not to be overly concerned about that. A failure that results in
>not being able to operate the contactor should not in itself be a
>hazard to flight.
>
>However, a failure that results in smoke, although in other ways
>benign, is undesirable.
The fact that you've identified a potential for smoke
suggests a point of concern in your failure mode
effects analysis . . .
> I would be interested in what happens to the coil circuit as a
> function of the failure mode of the suppression device. If it
> fails open, so what, you lost some suppression. If it fails closed
> I think you get a dead short on the coil circuit, in other words
> the wire that goes to your starter key and to ground.
Okay, now what?
>On my airplane, I don't have that circuit fused, reasoning that the
>coil itself is going to melt down before the wire does. but if you
>put a device in parallel with the coil and it shorts, then depending
>on the characteristics of the device you've got smoke in the cockpit.
We've never fused that circuit in a whole lot
of airplanes . . . generally, such prophylactics
are set aside when risks are perceived to be
insignificant . . . like 10 to the minus 6
failures per flight hour or better. Given a demonstrated
history that confirms that analysis then perhaps
we can benefit from lessons-learned shared our brethren
on the TC side of the house.
>So either you have to choose a device which you are pretty sure is
>going to fail open, or you need to fuse that circuit, right? (I
>don't see a fuse shown in the diagrams in the appendix).
Yup, you've read the schematics correctly. But if you
find that philosophy, suite of design goals and
demonstrated service histories uncomfortable,
please don't fly an airplane that offers you any
discomfort. Fuses are cheap.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
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Snowmobilers Association of Novia Scotia=0A Henador Titzoff=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_
_______________________________=0AFrom: Steve Leonard <buzzleo@graceba.net>
=0ATo: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Mon, October 12, 2009 5:40:0
9 PM=0ASubject: Re: AeroElectric-List: B =0A=0A=0AWhat does =9CSANS
=9D stand for?=0A =0ARunning one on a Velocity for 4 plus years san
==================0A=0A=0A
Message 5
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Message 6
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Now that is funny.....
At 16:21 10/12/2009, you wrote:
>NO COOLING FAN!!
>
>Jim Wickert
>Vision #159 Some will have some will not!
>Tel 920-467-0219
>Cell 920-912-1014
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Mounting Holes for B&C Fuse Blocks |
The text says, "ships with #10-32 hardware". --- But they don't ---
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476270#476270
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Mounting Holes for B&C Fuse Blocks |
The aviation aisle at TruValue has what you need.
-- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Dec 9, 2017 10:05 AM, "JOHN TIPTON" <jmtipton@btopenworld.com> wrote:
jmtipton@btopenworld.com>
The text says, "ships with #10-32 hardware". --- But they don't ---
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: unable to receive auyomatic list e-mails |
My subscriptions to the digest version of the AeroElectric, Europa and Rotax list
have not been working since the end of November. I have tried to re-subscribe
but to no avail. Does anyone have a solution?
Marty Mason
--------
Marty Mason
Norcross, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476272#476272
Message 10
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Subject: | stacking ring terminals or ? |
I have six wires that need to connect to the #10 stud on the capacitor
associated with my regulator-rectifier. It seems that my options are to use
a separate ring terminal for each wire and stack them on the stud, run
several wires (as convenient) into a single ring terminal, reducing the
number of terminals to three, or use the stud to attach some sort of "bus
bar" that will accept the separate ring terminals. Are all of these methods
acceptable? Does one sound better than the rest?
Message 11
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I too have not received any mail from the digest versions either. I re-subscribed
3 times and e-mailed Matt and the list manager and have not received an answer.
Bobby
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: stacking ring terminals or ? |
I prefer to use as few ring terminals as possible. For a similar situation, I
have used a ring terminal made for #10 wire and filled it with several smaller
wires. The ring terminal screw hole is available in various sizes. Heat shrink
tubing around all of the wires and terminal barrel will provide some strain
relief.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476276#476276
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: unable to receive auyomatic list e-mails |
The daily digest stopped coming to me also. No matter, I use this link to read
the messages on the AeroElectric List.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=3
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476277#476277
Message 14
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Subject: | Seeking Prior Discussion On Adding Rotax External Alternator |
I'm adding the external 40A alternator to the Rotax 912. I've looked at the Rotax
wiring diagrams and Z 12-14. I'd like to take advantage of any prior discussion
about this topic rather than start a new message to till old ground. I
don't see anything in the archives but am hoping if there is something someone
can point me to it.
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476282#476282
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Vertical Power? |
Good Evening 'Lectric Bob,
Like I said, It's an area in which I have no knowledge, but thanks to you
and this list, I am learning.
Slowly maybe, but still learning! <G>
Anybody have any ideas as to what the failure mode would be on the Vertical
Power unit? Is there a likely single failure mode that could take out all
electrical devices?
How does the total weight compare to legacy stuff?
Lots of interesting possibilities out there. But I still know how to crank
that ringer!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Downers Grove, Illinois
Stearman N3977A
In a message dated 12/12/2009 2:59:21 P.M. Central Standard Time,
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com writes:
At 09:19 AM 12/12/2009, you wrote:
Good Morning Don,
Here I go again commenting in an area of which I have no knowledge, but
what would happen if you used two batteries to get your twenty-four volts
then tapped a twelve volt buss off at the center connection between the two
batteries?
You reduce the life of both batteries to a small
fraction of their normal lives.
As to the Vertical Power concept, once again, no knowledge, but I would
lean toward more conventional wiring devices.
Depends on design goals. Enhanced power distribution products
with any sort of successful market experience pretty much
deliver on their stated performance and features. This includes
virtually all such systems with few exceptions.
Of course, if everyone felt like I do we would still be driving Model "T"
Fords and cranking our telephones. <G>
Not sure this is true. When we upgraded Model T systems, operational
capabilities, costs, and reliability all improved through year-to-year
advancements in technology. Increases in acquisition costs
increased incrementally at worst . . . but for the most part
went DOWN as volume production techniques kept up with increasing
demand.
But if a builder's design goals include exploitation of features
unique to the integrated power distribution product -AND-
he/she's willing to carry the added costs, then by all means.
However, I'll suggest that upgrading to a super-capable,
integrated power distribution system just to get a 12v source
for some trim actuators may not yield a great return on
investment . . .
I'm going to be running a 24v system on a Velocity. All the supplied trim
motors are designed for a 12v electrical system. I looked but have been
unable to find equivalent motors for my 24v system. So I started looking at
voltage converters such as:
This may be a huge overkill. What are the current
requirements for your 12 trim motors? Are these
Ray-Allen linear actuators? These take VERY little
power to operate. Replacing a potentiometer with a
fixed resistor can turn something like a 1/2A
variable dimmer . . .
_http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Lighting/dim5-14.jpg_
(http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Lighting/dim5-14.jpg)
into a fixed, 12 volt output power source. If your
trim motors are a bit bigger, then perhaps this
approach is called for . . .
_http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Lighting/dim15-14.jpg_
(http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Lighting/dim15-14.jpg)
Given the very intermittent power requirements
for trim motors, the down-regulator doesn't need
to be big or expensive. Tell us what your power
needs are . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
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