Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:34 PM - Is this repairable? (Art Zemon)
2. 02:11 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Art Zemon)
3. 02:23 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Charlie England)
4. 02:29 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Charlie England)
5. 02:53 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (The Kuffels)
6. 03:04 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Charles Birdsall)
7. 04:43 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (C&K)
8. 04:50 PM - Re: Z-13/8 inquiry (speedy11@aol.com)
9. 05:57 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Art Zemon)
10. 08:52 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (ashleysc@broadstripe.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Is this repairable? |
Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one with
damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
Is there a way to repair it?
-- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
-- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" <art@zemon.name> wrote:
> Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one with
> damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
>
> Is there a way to repair it?
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
No image attached; did you intend to send one? In any case, if it's a
single conductor with no shield, you'd have several options. Replace
completely (best & most hassle), or snip out the bad section & replace with
a good length of wire, using butt splice crimps or lap solder joints with
heat shrink, or cut it once near the damage & slide heat shrink over it,
long enough to cover damage and the repaired cut, or, wrap the damaged area
with quality electrical tape.
Those are options that came to mind quickly, more or less in descending
order of desirability. The last, while not sounding great, could be done in
a fashion that would be 'safe and effective'. Just not pretty. It worked
for decades in 110/220 volt house wiring to make up joints in electrical
boxes, before crimps & wire nuts became common.
Charlie
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On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 3:33 PM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
> Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one with
> damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
>
> Is there a way to repair it?
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
Just saw the pic. If that's a subD connector with removable pins, use a pin
extractor to back out the damaged wire, cover the damaged area with heat
shrink, shrink it, and re-insert the terminal in the connector body *If the
pin isn't removable*, I confess I'd be looking for a roll of quality
electrical tape. Everything's a compromise, and that would be one I'd be
willing to make, though I realize others would not.
Charlie
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On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
> Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>
> On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" <art@zemon.name> wrote:
>
>> Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one with
>> damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
>>
>> Is there a way to repair it?
>>
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
Art,
<< damaged insulation. .. Is there a way to repair it? >>
<< removable pins,..back out the damaged wire, cover the damaged area with
heat shrink .. pin isn't removable*, I confess I'd be looking for a roll o
f quality electrical tape >>
An even simpler way is to buy some Liquid Tape in the Automotive section of
Wal-Mart. Even if the wire is buried deep you can reach it with a small a
rtist's brush. This product forms a durable, tough rubberized coating.
Tom
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
Art,
What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire strands themselves
weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they aren't) then heat shrink
will probably last longer than the radio.
Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd replace the
whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace, I'd splice in a new wire
part way down the bundle - making the new wire long enough to get the butt
splice into an area where both sides of the splice can be supported without putting
undue strain on the wire/splice.
If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be to cut the
wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding the heat shrink back
up the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire back together. Choose
the splice point somewhere along the bundle where both sides of the splice
can be supported to minimize stress on the splice.
Chuck
> On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
>
> Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>
> On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art@zemon.name mailto:art@zemon.name > wrote:
>
> > > Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this
one with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
> >
> > Is there a way to repair it?
> >
> > -- Art Z.
> >
> > Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
> >
> > >
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most sealants
and is less invasive as long as significant corrosion hasn't started.
Ken
On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote:
> Art,
>
> What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire
> strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they
> aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio.
>
> Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd
> replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace,
> I'd splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new
> wire long enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides
> of the splice can be supported without putting undue strain on the
> wire/splice.
>
> If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be
> to cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding
> the heat shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then
> butt-splice the wire back together. Choose the splice point somewhere
> along the bundle where both sides of the splice can be supported to
> minimize stress on the splice.
>
> Chuck
>
>> On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
>>
>> Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
>>
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>>
>> On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art@zemon.name
>> <mailto:art@zemon.name>> wrote:
>>
>> Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one
>> with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
>>
>> Is there a way to repair it?
>>
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Z-13/8 inquiry |
Joe,
Can one assume that a Hall Effect would be installed on one of the three places
an ammeter would be installed?
It seems logical that a Hall Effect would be placed on the lead from the alternator.
Thus, it would correlate with the activation of the low voltage light.
How about a shunt? Same locations as ammeter?
Suppose you have two batteries. Hall Effect on the alternator lead and shunt on
the second battery + lead?
Stan
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Z-13/8 inquiry
From: "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com>
Most aircraft are wired without protection on the main bus feeder.
The theory is that if the feeder shorts to sheet metal, then the sheet
metal will burn away before the feeder burns in two. The most likely
place for the feeder to short out is where it passes through the firewall.
If properly installed, then that will not happen.
As for a battery bus, adding a fuse is likely to cause a problem,
not eliminate one.
There are 3 possible locations for an ammeter: alternator output,
battery current, or aircraft load. Each location has its advantages
and disadvantages. There has been much debate about which
location is best. It is a matter of personal preference. No matter
which location is chosen, the important thing is for the pilot to
understand what the ammeter is displaying. For example, suppose
the builder installs the ammeter to measure aircraft load. The aircraft
is then sold. While on a cross country trip, the new owner notices that
the voltage is low. He is not concerned because the ammeter is showing
normal current. He does not realize that the alternator has failed and
the battery is running down. Actually an ammeter is not a necessity.
A voltmeter will tell the condition of the electrical system. If the voltage
drops much below 14, something is wrong. Do the troubleshooting on
the ground.
--------
Joe Gores
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract the pin and
add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of E6000.
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K <yellowduckduo@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most sealants and
> is less invasive as long as significant corrosion hasn't started.
> Ken
>
> On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote:
>
>> Art,
>>
>> What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire
>> strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they
>> aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio.
>>
>> Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd
>> replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace, I'd
>> splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new wire long
>> enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the splice
>> can be supported without putting undue strain on the wire/splice.
>>
>> If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be to
>> cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding the heat
>> shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire
>> back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the bundle where
>> both sides of the splice can be supported to minimize stress on the splice.
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>> On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
>>>
>>> -- Art Z.
>>>
>>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>>>
>>> On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art@zemon.name <mailto:
>>> art@zemon.name>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one
>>> with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
>>>
>>> Is there a way to repair it?
>>>
>>> -- Art Z.
>>>
>>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
Hi Art;
Presuming you con't disconnect one end and slip some shrink tubing over it, there
is a material called liquid adhesive tape, which can be painted on (much like
white-out). It even comes in different colors.
Cheers! Stu.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Art Zemon" <art@zemon.name>
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2018 1:33:01 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Is this repairable?
Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one with damaged insulation.
It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
Is there a way to repair it?
-- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
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