Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:19 AM - Re: Z-13/8 inquiry (user9253)
2. 04:59 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Henry Hallam)
3. 05:46 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Art Zemon)
4. 05:58 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (John Cox)
5. 05:59 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Ken Ryan)
6. 06:17 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Art Zemon)
7. 06:19 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Lyle Peterson)
8. 06:54 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Art Zemon)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Z-13/8 inquiry |
Stan,
It is up to the aircraft builder to decide how many and where to locate current
sensors. It does not matter if the sensors are shunt or hall effect type, as
long as each is compatible with its display. Some EFISs have inputs for more
than one current sensor. If a display only has one input, a selector switch
can choose which sensor to connect to the display. Your plan to use one hall
effect sensor and one shunt sensor will work, provided that the sensors are compatible
with the display(s).
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478269#478269
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
FWIW Art, you absolutely must have the right pin extractor tool to get
those D-sub pins out. Available from our friends at B&C (link below) as
well as Digikey, or Fry's. It is simply not possible to make do without
this tool. (now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an alternate means
of pin removal)
https://www.bandc.aero/insertionextractiontoold-subpins.aspx
-Henry
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
> Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract the pin
> and add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of E6000.
>
> Cheers,
> -- Art Z.
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K <yellowduckduo@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most sealants and
>> is less invasive as long as significant corrosion hasn't started.
>> Ken
>>
>> On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote:
>>
>>> Art,
>>>
>>> What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire
>>> strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they
>>> aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio.
>>>
>>> Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd
>>> replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace, I'd
>>> splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new wire long
>>> enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the splice
>>> can be supported without putting undue strain on the wire/splice.
>>>
>>> If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be to
>>> cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding the heat
>>> shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire
>>> back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the bundle where
>>> both sides of the splice can be supported to minimize stress on the splice.
>>>
>>> Chuck
>>>
>>> On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
>>>>
>>>> -- Art Z.
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art@zemon.name <mailto:
>>>> art@zemon.name>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one
>>>> with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
>>>>
>>>> Is there a way to repair it?
>>>>
>>>> -- Art Z.
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>> ===================================
>> -
>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.
>> matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
Thanks, everybody, for the advice. I had no trouble extracting the pin (I
do have the right tool) and added a bit of heat shrink tubing and popped
the pin back into the connector.
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
Use of a Raychem enviro-splice could avoid Pin Extraction if you have
access to the correct crimper.(Aircraft Spruce).
John Cox
On Feb 26, 2018 18:05, "Henry Hallam" <henry@pericynthion.org.matronics.com>
wrote:
> FWIW Art, you absolutely must have the right pin extractor tool to get
> those D-sub pins out. Available from our friends at B&C (link below) as
> well as Digikey, or Fry's. It is simply not possible to make do without
> this tool. (now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an alternate means
> of pin removal)
>
> https://www.bandc.aero/insertionextractiontoold-subpins.aspx
>
> -Henry
>
> On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
>
>> Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract the pin
>> and add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of E6000.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K <yellowduckduo@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most sealants
>>> and is less invasive as long as significant corrosion hasn't started.
>>> Ken
>>>
>>> On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote:
>>>
>>>> Art,
>>>>
>>>> What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire
>>>> strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they
>>>> aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio.
>>>>
>>>> Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd
>>>> replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace, I'd
>>>> splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new wire long
>>>> enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the splice
>>>> can be supported without putting undue strain on the wire/splice.
>>>>
>>>> If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be to
>>>> cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding the heat
>>>> shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire
>>>> back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the bundle where
>>>> both sides of the splice can be supported to minimize stress on the splice.
>>>>
>>>> Chuck
>>>>
>>>> On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
>>>>>
>>>>> -- Art Z.
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art@zemon.name <mailto:
>>>>> art@zemon.name>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one
>>>>> with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
>>>>>
>>>>> Is there a way to repair it?
>>>>>
>>>>> -- Art Z.
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> ==========
>>> -
>>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.mat
>>> ronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> WIKI -
>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>
>> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
>> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>>
>
>
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
Art, just curious, any idea what caused the damage?
On Mon, Feb 26, 2018 at 4:43 PM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
> Thanks, everybody, for the advice. I had no trouble extracting the pin (I
> do have the right tool) and added a bit of heat shrink tubing and popped
> the pin back into the connector.
>
> Cheers,
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
Ken,
Who knows. I have been assembling the wiring behind the panel, and there
has been work going on with sheet metal to support the top of the panel.
That connector is right up near the top so it would have been easy for
something to nick it. It was no big deal to extract the pin, add heat
shrink tubing, and reinstall the pin. Since the windshield is not yet
installed, the connector is easy to reach.
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
On Mon, Feb 26, 2018 at 7:57 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska@gmail.com> wrote:
> Art, just curious, any idea what caused the damage?
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Message 7
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
I have used a piece of brass tubing to extract pins. I have also used
other less sophisticated methods to painfully extract pins.
Pin extractors are also available at local auto parts stores and
possible in the aircraft electronics department of the big box building
supply stores.
Lyle
On 2/26/2018 6:57 PM, Henry Hallam wrote:
> FWIW Art, you absolutely must have the right pin extractor tool to get
> those D-sub pins out. Available from our friends at B&C (link below)
> as well as Digikey, or Fry's. It is simply not possible to make do
> without this tool. (now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an
> alternate means of pin removal)
>
> https://www.bandc.aero/insertionextractiontoold-subpins.aspx
>
> -Henry
>
> On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name
> <mailto:art@zemon.name>> wrote:
>
> Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract
> the pin and add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of
> E6000.
>
> Cheers,
> -- Art Z.
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K <yellowduckduo@gmail.com
> <mailto:yellowduckduo@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> <yellowduckduo@gmail.com <mailto:yellowduckduo@gmail.com>>
>
> I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most
> sealants and is less invasive as long as significant corrosion
> hasn't started.
> Ken
>
> On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote:
>
> Art,
>
> What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as
> the wire strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo
> seems to indicate they aren't) then heat shrink will
> probably last longer than the radio.
>
> Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new
> installation I'd replace the whole wire. If the whole run
> is a nightmare to replace, I'd splice in a new wire part
> way down the bundle - making the new wire long enough to
> get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the
> splice can be supported without putting undue strain on
> the wire/splice.
>
> If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an
> alternative would be to cut the wire at some handy point
> down the wire bundle and sliding the heat shrink back up
> the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire
> back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the
> bundle where both sides of the splice can be supported to
> minimize stress on the splice.
>
> Chuck
>
> On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon
> <art@zemon.name <mailto:art@zemon.name>> wrote:
>
> Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre
> typos.
>
> On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art@zemon.name
> <mailto:art@zemon.name> <mailto:art@zemon.name
> <mailto:art@zemon.name>>> wrote:
>
> Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and
> found this one
> with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on
> a com radio.
>
> Is there a way to repair it?
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and
> bizarre typos.
>
>
> ==========
> -
> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig
> <http://www.matronics.com/Navig>ator?AeroElectric-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> <http://forums.matronics.com>
> ==========
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> <http://wiki.matronics.com>
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contr
> <http://www.matronics.com/contr>ibution
> ==========
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/>
>
> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for
> myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
>
>
Message 8
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
Meh. Pin tools are cheap. Five bucks if you can't find one locally
https://www.steinair.com/product/insertionremoval-tool-for-standard-d-sub-pins-mil-spec/
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
On Mon, Feb 26, 2018 at 8:19 PM, Lyle Peterson <lyleap@centurylink.net>
wrote:
> I have used a piece of brass tubing to extract pins. I have also used
> other less sophisticated methods to painfully extract pins.
>
> Pin extractors are also available at local auto parts stores and possible
> in the aircraft electronics department of the big box building supply
> stores.
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|