---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 02/26/18: 8 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:19 AM - Re: Z-13/8 inquiry (user9253) 2. 04:59 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Henry Hallam) 3. 05:46 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Art Zemon) 4. 05:58 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (John Cox) 5. 05:59 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Ken Ryan) 6. 06:17 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Art Zemon) 7. 06:19 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Lyle Peterson) 8. 06:54 PM - Re: Is this repairable? (Art Zemon) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:19:02 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Z-13/8 inquiry From: "user9253" Stan, It is up to the aircraft builder to decide how many and where to locate current sensors. It does not matter if the sensors are shunt or hall effect type, as long as each is compatible with its display. Some EFISs have inputs for more than one current sensor. If a display only has one input, a selector switch can choose which sensor to connect to the display. Your plan to use one hall effect sensor and one shunt sensor will work, provided that the sensors are compatible with the display(s). -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478269#478269 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:59:16 PM PST US From: Henry Hallam Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Is this repairable? FWIW Art, you absolutely must have the right pin extractor tool to get those D-sub pins out. Available from our friends at B&C (link below) as well as Digikey, or Fry's. It is simply not possible to make do without this tool. (now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an alternate means of pin removal) https://www.bandc.aero/insertionextractiontoold-subpins.aspx -Henry On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Art Zemon wrote: > Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract the pin > and add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of E6000. > > Cheers, > -- Art Z. > > > On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K wrote: > >> >> I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most sealants and >> is less invasive as long as significant corrosion hasn't started. >> Ken >> >> On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote: >> >>> Art, >>> >>> What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire >>> strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they >>> aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio. >>> >>> Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd >>> replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace, I'd >>> splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new wire long >>> enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the splice >>> can be supported without putting undue strain on the wire/splice. >>> >>> If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be to >>> cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding the heat >>> shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire >>> back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the bundle where >>> both sides of the splice can be supported to minimize stress on the splice. >>> >>> Chuck >>> >>> On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon wrote: >>>> >>>> Hmmm. Trying again with the photo... >>>> >>>> -- Art Z. >>>> >>>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos. >>>> >>>> On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art@zemon.name >>> art@zemon.name>> wrote: >>>> >>>> Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one >>>> with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio. >>>> >>>> Is there a way to repair it? >>>> >>>> -- Art Z. >>>> >>>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos. >>>> >>>> >>> >> =================================== >> - >> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www. >> matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List >> =================================== >> FORUMS - >> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> =================================== >> WIKI - >> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com >> =================================== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> =================================== >> >> >> >> > > > -- > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ > > *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what > am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel* > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:46:48 PM PST US From: Art Zemon Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Is this repairable? Thanks, everybody, for the advice. I had no trouble extracting the pin (I do have the right tool) and added a bit of heat shrink tubing and popped the pin back into the connector. Cheers, -- Art Z. -- https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel* ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:58:14 PM PST US From: John Cox Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Is this repairable? Use of a Raychem enviro-splice could avoid Pin Extraction if you have access to the correct crimper.(Aircraft Spruce). John Cox On Feb 26, 2018 18:05, "Henry Hallam" wrote: > FWIW Art, you absolutely must have the right pin extractor tool to get > those D-sub pins out. Available from our friends at B&C (link below) as > well as Digikey, or Fry's. It is simply not possible to make do without > this tool. (now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an alternate means > of pin removal) > > https://www.bandc.aero/insertionextractiontoold-subpins.aspx > > -Henry > > On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Art Zemon wrote: > >> Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract the pin >> and add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of E6000. >> >> Cheers, >> -- Art Z. >> >> >> On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K wrote: >> >>> >>> I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most sealants >>> and is less invasive as long as significant corrosion hasn't started. >>> Ken >>> >>> On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote: >>> >>>> Art, >>>> >>>> What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire >>>> strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they >>>> aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio. >>>> >>>> Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd >>>> replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace, I'd >>>> splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new wire long >>>> enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the splice >>>> can be supported without putting undue strain on the wire/splice. >>>> >>>> If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be to >>>> cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding the heat >>>> shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire >>>> back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the bundle where >>>> both sides of the splice can be supported to minimize stress on the splice. >>>> >>>> Chuck >>>> >>>> On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Hmmm. Trying again with the photo... >>>>> >>>>> -- Art Z. >>>>> >>>>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos. >>>>> >>>>> On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art@zemon.name >>>> art@zemon.name>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one >>>>> with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio. >>>>> >>>>> Is there a way to repair it? >>>>> >>>>> -- Art Z. >>>>> >>>>> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos. >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>> ========== >>> - >>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.mat >>> ronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List >>> ========== >>> FORUMS - >>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >>> ========== >>> WIKI - >>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com >>> ========== >>> b Site - >>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> ========== >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> -- >> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ >> >> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, >> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel* >> > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:59:18 PM PST US From: Ken Ryan Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Is this repairable? Art, just curious, any idea what caused the damage? On Mon, Feb 26, 2018 at 4:43 PM, Art Zemon wrote: > Thanks, everybody, for the advice. I had no trouble extracting the pin (I > do have the right tool) and added a bit of heat shrink tubing and popped > the pin back into the connector. > > Cheers, > -- Art Z. > > -- > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ > > *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what > am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel* > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:17:57 PM PST US From: Art Zemon Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Is this repairable? Ken, Who knows. I have been assembling the wiring behind the panel, and there has been work going on with sheet metal to support the top of the panel. That connector is right up near the top so it would have been easy for something to nick it. It was no big deal to extract the pin, add heat shrink tubing, and reinstall the pin. Since the windshield is not yet installed, the connector is easy to reach. Cheers, -- Art Z. On Mon, Feb 26, 2018 at 7:57 PM, Ken Ryan wrote: > Art, just curious, any idea what caused the damage? > -- https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel* ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:19:10 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Is this repairable? From: Lyle Peterson I have used a piece of brass tubing to extract pins. I have also used other less sophisticated methods to painfully extract pins. Pin extractors are also available at local auto parts stores and possible in the aircraft electronics department of the big box building supply stores. Lyle On 2/26/2018 6:57 PM, Henry Hallam wrote: > FWIW Art, you absolutely must have the right pin extractor tool to get > those D-sub pins out. Available from our friends at B&C (link below) > as well as Digikey, or Fry's. It is simply not possible to make do > without this tool. (now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an > alternate means of pin removal) > > https://www.bandc.aero/insertionextractiontoold-subpins.aspx > > -Henry > > On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Art Zemon > wrote: > > Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract > the pin and add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of > E6000. > > Cheers, > -- Art Z. > > > On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K > wrote: > > > > > I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most > sealants and is less invasive as long as significant corrosion > hasn't started. > Ken > > On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote: > > Art, > > What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as > the wire strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo > seems to indicate they aren't) then heat shrink will > probably last longer than the radio. > > Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new > installation I'd replace the whole wire. If the whole run > is a nightmare to replace, I'd splice in a new wire part > way down the bundle - making the new wire long enough to > get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the > splice can be supported without putting undue strain on > the wire/splice. > > If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an > alternative would be to cut the wire at some handy point > down the wire bundle and sliding the heat shrink back up > the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire > back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the > bundle where both sides of the splice can be supported to > minimize stress on the splice. > > Chuck > > On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon > > wrote: > > Hmmm. Trying again with the photo... > > -- Art Z. > > Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre > typos. > > On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art@zemon.name > >> wrote: > > Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and > found this one > with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on > a com radio. > > Is there a way to repair it? > > -- Art Z. > > Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and > bizarre typos. > > > ========== > - > Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig > ator?AeroElectric-List > ========== > FORUMS - > eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > > ========== > WIKI - > errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com > > ========== > b Site - > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > rel="noreferrer" > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contr > ibution > ========== > > > -- > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ > > /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for > myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/ > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:54:45 PM PST US From: Art Zemon Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Is this repairable? Meh. Pin tools are cheap. Five bucks if you can't find one locally https://www.steinair.com/product/insertionremoval-tool-for-standard-d-sub-pins-mil-spec/ Cheers, -- Art Z. On Mon, Feb 26, 2018 at 8:19 PM, Lyle Peterson wrote: > I have used a piece of brass tubing to extract pins. I have also used > other less sophisticated methods to painfully extract pins. > > Pin extractors are also available at local auto parts stores and possible > in the aircraft electronics department of the big box building supply > stores. > -- https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" 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