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1. 05:24 AM - Re: Is this repairable? (Harley Dixon)
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Subject: | Re: Is this repairable? |
>>now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an alternate means of pin
removal<<
Yeah...start munching! <G>
I made one years ago when I was working for a living using a very thin
brass tube the right diameter and soldering a T handle to it. Still have
it somewhere around here, and use it when needed.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
On 2/26/2018 7:57 PM, Henry Hallam wrote:
> FWIW Art, you absolutely must have the right pin extractor tool to get
> those D-sub pins out. Available from our friends at B&C (link below)
> as well as Digikey, or Fry's. It is simply not possible to make do
> without this tool. (now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an
> alternate means of pin removal)
>
> https://www.bandc.aero/insertionextractiontoold-subpins.aspx
>
> -Henry
>
> On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name
> <mailto:art@zemon.name>> wrote:
>
> Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract
> the pin and add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of
> E6000.
>
> Cheers,
> -- Art Z.
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K <yellowduckduo@gmail.com
> <mailto:yellowduckduo@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> <yellowduckduo@gmail.com <mailto:yellowduckduo@gmail.com>>
>
> I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most
> sealants and is less invasive as long as significant corrosion
> hasn't started.
> Ken
>
> On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote:
>
> Art,
>
> What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as
> the wire strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo
> seems to indicate they aren't) then heat shrink will
> probably last longer than the radio.
>
> Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new
> installation I'd replace the whole wire. If the whole run
> is a nightmare to replace, I'd splice in a new wire part
> way down the bundle - making the new wire long enough to
> get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the
> splice can be supported without putting undue strain on
> the wire/splice.
>
> If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an
> alternative would be to cut the wire at some handy point
> down the wire bundle and sliding the heat shrink back up
> the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire
> back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the
> bundle where both sides of the splice can be supported to
> minimize stress on the splice.
>
> Chuck
>
> On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon
> <art@zemon.name <mailto:art@zemon.name>> wrote:
>
> Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre
> typos.
>
> On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art@zemon.name
> <mailto:art@zemon.name> <mailto:art@zemon.name
> <mailto:art@zemon.name>>> wrote:
>
> Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and
> found this one
> with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on
> a com radio.
>
> Is there a way to repair it?
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and
> bizarre typos.
>
>
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