Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:26 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 04/01/18 (David)
2. 09:03 AM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 04/01/18 (Charlie England)
3. 12:36 PM - two different Z-33 diagrams (Mickey Coggins)
4. 03:12 PM - insulation support for crimps (Alec Myers)
5. 03:47 PM - Re: insulation support for crimps (FLYaDIVE)
6. 04:11 PM - Warm Toggle Switch (John)
7. 04:30 PM - Re: Warm Toggle Switch (C&K)
8. 04:47 PM - Re: insulation support for crimps (Charlie England)
9. 06:40 PM - Re: Warm Toggle Switch (FLYaDIVE)
10. 07:57 PM - Re: insulation support for crimps (Eric Page)
11. 08:04 PM - Re: Warm Toggle Switch (Paul Eckenroth)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 04/01/18 |
>
> =8BThanks Charlie, your suggestion helped. Some things in life are
funny,
> especially when you are trying to figure out something new. I was not
> annoyed by the special characters at all, just wanted to poke some fun.
My
> emails must be like transmitting with my handheld radio, not always the
> clearest and with extra "character." Clearance issued as you heard it.
> =8B
> I have decided to install a couple of 12v sockets in the panel.=8B
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 04/01/18 |
On 4/2/2018 10:26 AM, David wrote:
>
> Thanks Charlie, your suggestion helped. Some things in life are
> funny, especially when you are trying to figure out something
> new. I was not annoyed by the special characters at all, just
> wanted to poke some fun. My emails must be like transmitting with
> my handheld radio, not always the clearest and with extra
> "character." Clearance issued as you heard it.
>
>
>
> I have decided to install a couple of 12v sockets in the panel.
>
Glad it helped!
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Message 3
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Subject: | two different Z-33 diagrams |
Hi,
I have a printout of a Z-33 that shows how to wire pmags so that you can do
maintenance on them, but I can't find this diagram any longer. The Z-33 I
find is about Dual Power Path for Battery Contactors.
Is there an updated Z diagram that talks about the best way to wire the
pmags so that you can also do maintenance on them?
Thanks,
Mickey
Mickey Coggins
Message 4
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Subject: | insulation support for crimps |
Bob et al.
I understand from reading lots of sources that small wires crimped into, for example,
ring terminals, should have insulation support, like that provided by PIDG
brand insulated crimps.
If I use an uninsulated crimp like a Molex krimptite and I oversleeve with heat
shrink tubing around the barrel of the crimp and extending over a half inch of
the wire insulation, does that make up adequately for the lack of other insulation
support?
Alec
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: insulation support for crimps |
Alec:
The insulated lug below a #10 AWG is a FAA requirement. It has a bit of a
safety requirement.
Using the Shrink Tubing sort of satisfies that safety requirement.
How well the safety issue is satisfied, I don't know.
Would I do what you suggest?
YES, but, I would also consider the voltage, the amperage and the proximity
to neighboring terminals.
I would also be using a LOCK WASHER or a LOCK NUT on ALL terminals.
If you satisfy what YOU as the builder consider SAFE, then the project may
just be safe.
Barry
On Mon, Apr 2, 2018 at 6:11 PM, Alec Myers <alec@alecmyers.com> wrote:
>
> Bob et al.
>
> I understand from reading lots of sources that small wires crimped into,
> for example, ring terminals, should have insulation support, like that
> provided by PIDG brand insulated crimps.
>
> If I use an uninsulated crimp like a Molex =9Ckrimptite=9D an
d I oversleeve
> with heat shrink tubing around the barrel of the crimp and extending over
a
> half inch of the wire insulation, does that make up adequately for the la
ck
> of other insulation support?
>
> Alec
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Warm Toggle Switch |
Hello
My RV6A has been flying for a little over nine years. On a recent flight I noticed
that the strobe toggle switch behind the panel was warm . I have an Aeroflash
Nav/Strobe light combination with independent power packs for each strobe.
The power packs, according to the product documentation, draw 2.7 amps each.
My toggle switch is a S700-1-3. The toggle switch is a S700-1-3 and the
circuit is protected by a 7.5 amp fuse. The fuse has never blown. The Nav lights
are switched/fused separately
I have pulled the strobe fuse until I get this sorted out. I am wondering if this
is too much current draw for this particular switch and that I should incorporate
a relay into the circuit. Perhaps the switch has reached its end of service.
Thoughts?
John C
RV6A
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Warm Toggle Switch |
There is history in the archives on this happening when the rivets
attaching the terminal lugs onto the switch are not tight enough.
Yes it's time for a new switch.
Ken
On 02/04/2018 7:11 PM, John wrote:
>
> Hello
>
> My RV6A has been flying for a little over nine years. On a recent flight I noticed
that the strobe toggle switch behind the panel was warm . I have an Aeroflash
Nav/Strobe light combination with independent power packs for each strobe.
The power packs, according to the product documentation, draw 2.7 amps
each. My toggle switch is a S700-1-3. The toggle switch is a S700-1-3 and the
circuit is protected by a 7.5 amp fuse. The fuse has never blown. The Nav
lights are switched/fused separately
>
> I have pulled the strobe fuse until I get this sorted out. I am wondering if
this is too much current draw for this particular switch and that I should incorporate
a relay into the circuit. Perhaps the switch has reached its end of
service.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> John C
> RV6A
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: insulation support for crimps |
On 4/2/2018 5:11 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>
> Bob et al.
>
> I understand from reading lots of sources that small wires crimped into, for
example, ring terminals, should have insulation support, like that provided by
PIDG brand insulated crimps.
>
> If I use an uninsulated crimp like a Molex krimptite and I oversleeve with heat
shrink tubing around the barrel of the crimp and extending over a half inch
of the wire insulation, does that make up adequately for the lack of other insulation
support?
>
> Alec
I wouldn't hesitate to use that technique on my plane (I've actually
done it in a few places). It's worth mentioning that the wire should
still be supported within a few inches of the connector, regardless of
the terminator you use.
Whenever we get all wrapped up in state of the art perfection, it's
worth remembering that there are planes still flying with terminators
on their wires that were applied before PIDG terminals existed; probably
before crimp terminals existed at all. :-)
Charlie
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Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Warm Toggle Switch |
John:
Yes, the switch may be the problem. Your switch S700-1-3 is a 15 Amp
rating on AC. Which is NOT 15 Amps on DC. A good rule of thumb is the
switch should be able to handle DOUBLE the DC amperage that the circuit
draws. There are a couple of ways of determining the DC rating of an AC
Switch. You can say take .707 x Rating or .637 x Rating. So: 15 Amps x
.707 = 10.6 Amps // or 15 Amps x .637 = 9.5 Amps.
They are average type switches, they are not hermetically sealed, the
contacts are not silver plated. There could very easily be corrosion on
the contacts and that raises the resistance of the circuit. The higher
resistance can very easily cause HEAT at that contact point AND you are
FEELING IT!
Find a better quality switch. I like taking a DPST (Double Pole Single
Throw) Switch and wiring BOTH Sides together so it functions as a SPST
(Single Throw Single Throw) Switch. So, in your case you would have a
total AC Rating of 30 Amps which would be able to handle either 19 Amps or
21 Amps DC. AND the physical properties of the switch would be much more
robust that that S700-1-3 switch.
BUT! DON'T STOP THERE! Other things in the circuit can be causing higher
current draw.
1 - Sales brochures generally BOAST better ratings that that actually
exist. The Strobe may very well be drawing higher than advertised.
2 - Check the connections of the switch. If they are SCREW Terminals use
star lock washers. If they are FAST-ON terminals, how easy do they slide
on/off? Squeeze them with needle nose pliers so they are Very Snug.
3 - How are other connections in the circuit?
4 - You mentioned FUSE, check the fuse holder for any signs of corrosion.
Clean it with Scotch-Brite and Contact Cleaner.
Resistance is resistance no matter where it is and that causes an increase
in current draw.
Barry
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: insulation support for crimps |
Alec,
Like the others, I wouldn't hesitate to use the method you described. I would,
however, use adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. It helps to keep moisture out
of your crimps and it grips the wire insulation and terminal better than non-adhesive
tubing. I usually have the best luck with tubing that has higher shrink
ratio; I generally buy 3:1 or 4:1, which gives more leeway for diameter mismatch.
Here's a Digi-Key search sorted for only adhesive-lined shrink tubing:
https://preview.tinyurl.com/y8e5xz9d
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478996#478996
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Warm Toggle Switch |
I believe this is my first attempt at actually giving advice on this list
but here goes. I had the same problem with the strobe switch in my RV9
except the switch was not warm but hot. I removed the switch and soldered
the rivets. Replaced the switch and the heat was gone and has been for over
700 hours. I also removed the rest of the toggle switches and gave them the
same treatment. I check the switches periodically and they are always
ambient temperature. I=99m sure I read about soldering the rivets on
this
list years ago so this is not my idea.
Paul
On Monday, April 2, 2018, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
> John:
>
> Yes, the switch may be the problem. Your switch S700-1-3 is a 15 Amp
> rating on AC. Which is NOT 15 Amps on DC. A good rule of thumb is the
> switch should be able to handle DOUBLE the DC amperage that the circuit
> draws. There are a couple of ways of determining the DC rating of an AC
> Switch. You can say take .707 x Rating or .637 x Rating. So: 15 Amps x
> .707 = 10.6 Amps // or 15 Amps x .637 = 9.5 Amps.
>
> They are average type switches, they are not hermetically sealed, the
> contacts are not silver plated. There could very easily be corrosion on
> the contacts and that raises the resistance of the circuit. The higher
> resistance can very easily cause HEAT at that contact point AND you are
> FEELING IT!
>
> Find a better quality switch. I like taking a DPST (Double Pole Single
> Throw) Switch and wiring BOTH Sides together so it functions as a SPST
> (Single Throw Single Throw) Switch. So, in your case you would have a
> total AC Rating of 30 Amps which would be able to handle either 19 Amps o
r
> 21 Amps DC. AND the physical properties of the switch would be much more
> robust that that S700-1-3 switch.
>
> BUT! DON'T STOP THERE! Other things in the circuit can be causing highe
r
> current draw.
> 1 - Sales brochures generally BOAST better ratings that that actually
> exist. The Strobe may very well be drawing higher than advertised.
> 2 - Check the connections of the switch. If they are SCREW Terminals use
> star lock washers. If they are FAST-ON terminals, how easy do they slide
> on/off? Squeeze them with needle nose pliers so they are Very Snug.
> 3 - How are other connections in the circuit?
> 4 - You mentioned FUSE, check the fuse holder for any signs of
> corrosion. Clean it with Scotch-Brite and Contact Cleaner.
>
> Resistance is resistance no matter where it is and that causes an increas
e
> in current draw.
>
> Barry
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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