Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:31 AM - Magnetomer (Bobby Paulk)
2. 08:53 AM - Re: Degaussing (ronaldcox)
3. 09:30 AM - Re: Magnetomer (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 10:37 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 04/25/18 (Kenneth Buchmann)
5. 10:37 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 04/25/18 (Kenneth Buchmann)
6. 12:29 PM - Re: Magnetomer (user9253)
7. 05:05 PM - Re: Double pole switch failure mode? (czechsix)
8. 05:05 PM - Re: Double pole switch failure mode? (czechsix)
9. 05:39 PM - Re: Re: Double pole switch failure mode? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 07:50 PM - Re: Magnetomer (FLYaDIVE)
11. 08:11 PM - Fw: Re: Magnetomer (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 08:53 PM - FYI (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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I tried most of the suggestions listed but finally had to move the magnetometer
as high as I could from the rudder cables. Right behind the baggage compartment
was great. I have never had a compass as accurate. You can also change the
cables to a good grade of Stainless ( non magnetic ) Steel.
Keep your cables far away from a DC welding machine while building.
Bobby
Zodiac 601
Message 2
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
> Try a soldering gun (NOT a soldering iron).
> Remove the two screws that hold the heating
> element. Put the heating element around the
> rudder cable and reassemble the soldering gun.
> Turn on the soldering gun and slowly move it
> along the rudder cable, being careful not to
> burn yourself or anything else.
>
> I have never done this and have never heard
> about others doing it. But hey, it is worth a try.
>
>
> It works. I've used the soldering gun to
> demag small tools. There are several articles
> on the 'net for doing similar tasks.
>
>
>
> Here the author made up a coil of longer
> wire (gives stronger field with less heating).
>
> One could take a piece of bare 12AWG copper
> and form it 4-5 turns around the target
> material before reconnecting to the soldering
> gun. I've measured the current in stock
> Weller tips at over 200 amps. So using
> the single-turn of a stock tip would
> give you 200+ ampere-turns of flux.
>
> Fabricated coils will be higher
> resistance but if you can get 150A
> through 5 turns, your degaussing flux
> rises to 750AT.
>
>
> Bob . . .
I wonder if an old magnetic tape eraser would work.
I have one that I used to use to erase magnetic tapes, and I'll bet that would
work. If you can find one in a second-hand shop, that might work. Might even be
easier to find than a soldering gun!
Mine looks like a small clothes iron encased in a plastic box with a handle and
a trigger.
Used to use it for VCR tapes, audio tapes, and computer backup tapes when the need
arose. I've seen them in the aircraft aisle at the local Salvation Army store.
:?
Also, it wouldn't have to be the cable that's magnetized. As others have said,
that's unlikely. But it could be a steel bolt, or possibly bell-crank or swaged-on
fitting.
I'm trying to think of other things in that area that would be ferrous metal, but
there isn't much in most planes. There's the hinge pin, but that wouldn't
change position with rudder movement.
Just another possible solution.
Ron
--------
Ron Cox
Glasair Super II F/T
Under Construction at C77 - About to fly!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479570#479570
Message 3
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At 07:29 AM 4/26/2018, you wrote:
>I tried most of the suggestions listed but finally had to move the
>magnetometer as high as I could from the rudder cables. Right behind
>the baggage compartment was great. I have never had a compass as
>accurate. You can also change the cables to a good grade of
>Stainless ( non magnetic ) Steel.
>
>Keep your cables far away from a DC welding machine while building.
Upon further pondering of your observations
and success, I'm now thinking that the cables
were probably not magnetized. If they are
MAGNETIC . . . meaning that they are attracted
to a magnet . . . then they are capable of
DISTORTING an external magnetic field (earth
flux) without being magnetized.
This condition seems more likely . . .
Mounting earth flux sensors of any strip
on or within vehicles has been fraught with
challenges. Most of our experience with
aluminum and plastic airplanes has been pretty
benign but there are occasional exceptions.
Had a guy on the List a few years back that
had a badly magnetized fuselage frame for
a rag-n-tube airplane.
From what you've shared here, it's almost
a certainty that degaussing the cables would
have not been useful. Further, the problem
you observed and worked around was a simple
distortion due to proximity.
Thanks for sharing!
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 04/25/18 |
I am going to run Bob's contribution thru the DeGausser to understand it
all=F0=9F=98=8E
I just bought a $40.00 DeGausser to heal my windup Mantel clock
KenB
On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 1:30 AM, AeroElectric-List Digest Server <
aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> wrote:
> *
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> ----------------------------------------------------------
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> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed 04/25/18: 10
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 01:44 AM - Degaussing (tshort)
> 2. 02:22 AM - Re: Degaussing (John Cox)
> 3. 05:52 AM - Re: Degaussing (user9253)
> 4. 06:35 AM - Re: Degaussing (FLYaDIVE)
> 5. 06:36 AM - Re: Re: Degaussing (FLYaDIVE)
> 6. 06:40 AM - Re: Magic stuff . . . (Alec Myers)
> 7. 06:53 AM - Re: Magic stuff . . . (Kelly McMullen)
> 8. 12:37 PM - Re: Re: Degaussing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
> 9. 12:51 PM - Re: Degaussing (David Lloyd)
> 10. 07:51 PM - Re: Degaussing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:44:57 AM PST US
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Degaussing
> From: "tshort" <tmshort@gmail.com>
>
>
> The aft mounted magnetometer in my RV 10 has failed interference testing,
> only
> when the rudder moves.
>
> Garmin tells me I need to degauss the rudder cables.
>
> Anyone have suggestions on how to do so?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479541#479541
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:22:12 AM PST US
> From: John Cox <rv10pro@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Degaussing
>
> Start with a simple (Free)Android phone app
> Such as Gauss Meter by Keuwlsoft. It will help locate or confirm the ite
m
> that becomes mangetized.
>
> A degauss process is a coil of wire which creates a demagnetize field whe
n
> switched on. They were commonly used by TV techs in the 60s -70s to remo
ve
> interference in Cathode Ray color picture tubes back in the day.
>
> John Cox
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 01:50 tshort <tmshort@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > The aft mounted magnetometer in my RV 10 has failed interference testin
g,
> > only when the rudder moves.
> >
> > Garmin tells me I need to degauss the rudder cables.
> >
> > Anyone have suggestions on how to do so?
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479541#479541
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:52:54 AM PST US
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Degaussing
> From: "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com>
>
>
> Try a soldering gun (NOT a soldering iron). Remove the two screws that
> hold the
> heating element. Put the heating element around the rudder cable and
> reassemble
> the soldering gun. Turn on the soldering gun and slowly move it along th
e
> rudder cable, being careful not to burn yourself or anything else.
> I have never done this and have never heard about others doing it. But
> hey, it
> is worth a try.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479544#479544
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:35:17 AM PST US
> From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Degaussing
>
> Hello Shorty:
>
> Very Interesting!
> In the good old days it was very easy to make a Degaussing Coil (D-C),
> actually the coil was already made for you and all you had to do was hook
> up 110 VAC.
> The Coil was the DEFLECTION COIL on the back of the old TV's... It is th
e
> large coil that slipped over the shank of the CRT... Cathode Ray Tube.
> All that a D-C is, is a very long length of a coil of wire. To the ends
of
> the coil you apply 110 VAC through a PUSH BUTTON switch. It continuously
> reverses the magnetic fields at the rate of 60 times per second (60 Hz).
> The coil is then slowly moved in ONE DIRECTION along the length of the it
em
> you wish to demagnetize.
>
> OK, lets prove the cables are magnetized. I doubt it! Why? Because the
> cable are made of a low ferrous metal. The cables are advertised as
> Stainless Steel (S/S). True, not all S/S is non-magnetic.
> Start with a COMPASS - Move the compass along the length of the cables an
d
> of course the STEEL pivot points. The Compass will point directly to the
> magnetized item.
>
> Sounds like you are installing a G5 system?
>
> ALSO... Go back and watch your DG/HSI as you move the rudder peddles. T
he
> Heading should change as the peddles are moved. Move them slowly from st
op
> to stop. My SWAG is: If the Heading does NOT change - Don't worry about
> it, you are good to go! The test procedure is way more sensitive/selecti
ve
> than the Magnetometer and the DG/HSI.
> If the DG/HSI does move then YES - Use the D-C.
> Side Note: You can also do as ships do: Fly a course in direct Oppositi
on
> to the magnetic fields of the earth. This is used to Degauss the ship...
> in your case the plane (ship). Look up Ship Degaussing procedures - Chec
k
> out "The Chapman's Manual".
>
> Since there are very few old TV's which you can steal a coil from let's
> move to your next options.
> 1 - Look for a place where you can purchase or rent a D-C. Look at the o
ld
> electronic shops.
> 2 - Obtain a ROLL of INSULATED wire - 24 to 34 AWG about 1,000 Ft. You
> will have to have access to BOTH ends of the wire. Then all you have to
do
> connect a 110 VAC line and a Push Button Switch to the ends. The go GAUS
S!
>
> Best of luck,
> Barry
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 4:44 AM, tshort <tmshort@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > The aft mounted magnetometer in my RV 10 has failed interference testin
g,
> > only when the rudder moves.
> >
> > Garmin tells me I need to degauss the rudder cables.
> >
> > Anyone have suggestions on how to do so?
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479541#479541
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:36:18 AM PST US
> From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Degaussing
>
> WOW! GREAT TRICK JOE!!! GREAT TRICK!
>
> Barry
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 8:52 AM, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > Try a soldering gun (NOT a soldering iron). Remove the two screws that
> > hold the heating element. Put the heating element around the rudder
> cable
> > and reassemble the soldering gun. Turn on the soldering gun and slowly
> > move it along the rudder cable, being careful not to burn yourself or
> > anything else.
> > I have never done this and have never heard about others doing it. But
> > hey, it is worth a try.
> >
> > --------
> > Joe Gores
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479544#479544
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:40:12 AM PST US
> From: Alec Myers <alec@alecmyers.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Magic stuff . . .
>
>
> Thanks Bob! I shall continue with my present practice of carefully NOT
> spraying
> WD40 into every switch annually.
>
>
> On Apr 24, 2018, at 11:13 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> wrote:
>
> At 07:12 PM 4/24/2018, you wrote:
> >
> > I lost track of which Bob was recommending annual WD-40 as a switch
> failure preventive
> prophylactic, and which Bob wasnt.
> > Can someone advise?
>
> The short answer is "no".
>
> The longer answer is, check the engineering
> data on any line of switches or relays you
> might be considering for your project. You
> will find a constellation of styles and
> ratings. It will be a rare switch or relay
> that is rated for less than TENS OF THOUSANDS
> of operations at rated load.
>
> Now, consider how heavily you are going to load
> this device . . . pushing the ratings? Probably
> not. So from an ELECTRICAL perspective, the
> service life of this devices will be some factor
> greater than rated. Then we consider mechanical
> service life . . . which logically exceeds the
> rated electrical service life.
>
> Now, how many operations are you going to put
> on this device every year? Based on your
> anticipated service demands, how many flight
> hours will you put on the switch before it's
> at risk for end of life? Trust me, it's a BIG
> number . . . so big in fact that and end of
> life failure is exceedingly tiny if not
> zero. You cannot wear out that device during
> your life experience with the airplane.
>
> Hmmmm . . . switches and relays get replaced
> all the time. Yup . . . and probably for
> reasons unrelated to actual operating cycles
> on the device. Okay, what's the reason
> for premature failure? It's probably a combination
> of serval things . . . most of which you'll
> have no control over.
>
> Hmmmm . . . what's a poor owner operator to do?
> Can't tell you without going through the kinds
> of failure analysis that dominated the last
> 10 years of my career in GA. The analysis
> was expensive, time consuming and seldom
> revealed a cheap and dirty resolution. Some
> failures were one-of events usually based
> on some fabrication error . . . it took
> 5-6 weeks of pushing one poor customer's
> airplane up the chain of time, talent
> and resources before I talked the pilots
> into letting me tape a 37 conductor ribbon
> cable to the fuselage and past gaskets in
> the baggage and passenger doors. With this
> rig I was able to watch a constellation
> of parameters in the tail while we climbed
> to 41000 feet . . . one more time . . . in
> search of the elusive failure.
>
> Found a crimp pin in a pressure bulkhead feed
> through that was not seated. The wire bundles
> had to get cold and shrink enough to pull the
> pin back and cause the failure to manifest.
>
> That 10-cent error cost tens of thousands
> to chase down.
>
> What's this have to do with switches on your
> panel? It's but one example of how root cause
> for a mis-behavior can run the range from
> observable broken wires, dripping water or
> hydraulic fluid, temperature cycles combined
> with ozone concentrations, . . . all the way
> up to failures that would only manifest
> at altitude after consuming about as much fuel
> in one flight as my wife's Saturn consumed in
> a year.
>
> Go back and look at the engineering data for
> the device. I've never seen a manufacturer
> recommend any form of periodic maintenance . . .
> much less squirt 'magic stuff' into the device's
> cracks with some notion of improving service
> life or, worse yet, 'refurbishing' a misbehaving
> switch.
>
> Back in the day, we had several cans of cleaners,
> lubes, sealers, etc. on the workbench where we
> repaired radio and television sets. It was always
> gratifying to drive the mischief out of a rotary
> switch, noisy volume control or arcing flyback
> transformer with a squirt of magic stuff.
>
> But we're talking about airplanes now. We're
> talking about devices that have obviously failed
> to meet service life predictions. Okay, now what?
> What forces in physics are responsible? Will
> 'magic stuff' mitigate those forces . . .
> probably not. Will they 'repair' the effects
> or simply squeeze a few more operations out of
> a device that is close to gross failure? Finally,
> how do you KNOW that you've squirted the magic
> stuff into the RIGHT location and that it
> doesn't present a new hazard to functionality
> if it gets into the WRONG location.
>
> Finally, how hard is it to replace a $5 switch that's
> held on the panel with one nut and wired with a
> couple or three fast-ons? I used to recommend
> that my seminar attendees take a sunny afternoon
> and $50 worth of switches and replace everything
> on the panel . . . just for the hell of it.
>
> System reliability benefits far more from
> preventative maintenance than it does from
> magic stuff applied to a device that's already
> begging for help.
>
> One more example. One day at Beech, a sales
> rep came out to pitch a particular kind of
> magic stuff. I think it was called "Stabilant 22."
>
> It was reputed, nay, demonstrated to improve the
> quality of metallic connection between pins and
> sockets in our harness connectors. So, we
> piled engineering data, test reports, user
> testimonials, etc. etc. against field service
> experience on a fleet of thousands of airplanes
> gathered over 50+ years.
>
> Yeah, Stabilant 22 was pretty whippy stuff . . .
> but expensive and labor intensive with a risk
> for waste due to spillage and getting it on
> the wrong surfaces. I could just see the faces
> of our line techs when we handed each one a bottle
> of magic stuff with a requirement to properly apply
> to each connector before it was mated up.
>
> Then, there was the question, what's the return
> on investment? After some consideration, we deduced
> that it was a 'fix' for a problem we didn't have.
>
> So there your have the long answer. If any combination
> of components on your airplane is crying out for
> help, then replace on condition is the
> lowest risk and probably the lowest cost approach
> to risk management. WD40 is good for the kid's
> tricycle that might sit out and get rained on
> from time to time.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:53:45 AM PST US
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Magic stuff . . .
> From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
>
>
> Another side to the issue. WD-40 is essentially fish oil or a synthetic
> clone of fish oil. It dries up over time and leaves a very sticky mess,
> as well as attracting dirt.
> If you insist on lubricating connections, ACF-50 or Corrosion X or just
> contact cleaner are better alternatives.
> The only use I have found for WD-40 around an airplane that doesn't
> cause future problems is to use it as a belly cleaning solution.
>
> Kelly
>
> On 4/25/2018 6:38 AM, Alec Myers wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Bob! I shall continue with my present practice of carefully NOT
> spraying
> WD40 into every switch annually.
> >
>
> >> I lost track of which Bob was recommending annual WD-40 as a switch
> failure
> preventive prophylactic, and which Bob wasnt.
> >> Can someone advise?
> >
> > The short answer is "no".
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 8
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:37:59 PM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Degaussing
>
> Try a soldering gun (NOT a soldering iron).
> Remove the two screws that hold the heating
> element. Put the heating element around the
> rudder cable and reassemble the soldering gun.
> Turn on the soldering gun and slowly move it
> along the rudder cable, being careful not to
> burn yourself or anything else.
>
> I have never done this and have never heard
> about others doing it. But hey, it is worth a try.
>
>
> It works. I've used the soldering gun to
> demag small tools. There are several articles
> on the 'net for doing similar tasks.
>
> demagnitizer from old soldering gun.jpg
>
>
> Here the author made up a coil of longer
> wire (gives stronger field with less heating).
>
> One could take a piece of bare 12AWG copper
> and form it 4-5 turns around the target
> material before reconnecting to the soldering
> gun. I've measured the current in stock
> Weller tips at over 200 amps. So using
> the single-turn of a stock tip would
> give you 200+ ampere-turns of flux.
>
> Fabricated coils will be higher
> resistance but if you can get 150A
> through 5 turns, your degaussing flux
> rises to 750AT.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ________________________________ Message 9
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:51:05 PM PST US
> From: "David Lloyd" <skywagon@charter.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Degaussing
>
> =2E . . any chance there is other electronics "back" there that are ope
rati
> onal, such as tail strobe and power supply causing interference with flux
..
> ??
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------------
> -----
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 6:33 AM
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Degaussing
>
>
> Hello Shorty:
>
>
> Very Interesting!
> In the good old days it was very easy to make a Degaussing Coil (D-C),
ac
> tually the coil was already made for you and all you had to do was hook u
p
> 110 VAC.
> The Coil was the DEFLECTION COIL on the back of the old TV's... It is
th
> e large coil that slipped over the shank of the CRT... Cathode Ray Tube.
>
> All that a D-C is, is a very long length of a coil of wire. To the end
s
> of the coil you apply 110 VAC through a PUSH BUTTON switch. It continuou
sl
> y reverses the magnetic fields at the rate of 60 times per second (60 Hz)
.
> The coil is then slowly moved in ONE DIRECTION along the length of the i
te
> m you wish to demagnetize.
>
>
> OK, lets prove the cables are magnetized. I doubt it! Why? Because t
he
> cable are made of a low ferrous metal. The cables are advertised as Sta
in
> less Steel (S/S). True, not all S/S is non-magnetic.
> Start with a COMPASS - Move the compass along the length of the cables
an
> d of course the STEEL pivot points. The Compass will point directly to t
he
> magnetized item.
>
>
> Sounds like you are installing a G5 system?
>
>
> ALSO... Go back and watch your DG/HSI as you move the rudder peddles.
T
> he Heading should change as the peddles are moved. Move them slowly from
s
> top to stop. My SWAG is: If the Heading does NOT change - Don't worry a
bo
> ut it, you are good to go! The test procedure is way more sensitive/sele
ct
> ive than the Magnetometer and the DG/HSI.
> If the DG/HSI does move then YES - Use the D-C.
> Side Note: You can also do as ships do: Fly a course in direct Opposi
ti
> on to the magnetic fields of the earth. This is used to Degauss the ship
..
> =2E in your case the plane (ship). Look up Ship Degaussing procedures
- C
> heck out "The Chapman's Manual".
>
>
> Since there are very few old TV's which you can steal a coil from let's
m
> ove to your next options.
> 1 - Look for a place where you can purchase or rent a D-C. Look at the
o
> ld electronic shops.
> 2 - Obtain a ROLL of INSULATED wire - 24 to 34 AWG about 1,000 Ft. You
w
> ill have to have access to BOTH ends of the wire. Then all you have to d
o
> connect a 110 VAC line and a Push Button Switch to the ends. The go GAUS
S!
>
>
> Best of luck,
> Barry
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 4:44 AM, tshort <tmshort@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> The aft mounted magnetometer in my RV 10 has failed interference test
in
> g, only when the rudder moves.
>
> Garmin tells me I need to degauss the rudder cables.
>
> Anyone have suggestions on how to do so?
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
> ________________________________ Message 10
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:51:55 PM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Degaussing
>
> At 02:49 PM 4/25/2018, you wrote:
> >=EF=BB
> >. . . any chance there is other electronics
> >"back" there that are operational, such as tail
> >strobe and power supply causing interference with flux..??
>
> Excellent question. I am skeptical of the notion
> that control cables have become magnetized . . .
> and if they were, they would have to carry
> flux lines longitudinally . . . i.e. little
> to no discernable changes in magnetic field
> as the cables operate to affect rudder
> position.
>
> But if moving the rudder has an observable
> effect, then there has to be a foundation
> in physics for the observation.
>
> On the other hand, does it matter? If
> the magnetic compass feature is 'swung'
> with the rudder centered . . . what
> is the probability of introducing a
> critical error into the system's magnetic
> nav data with a large rudder excursion?
> Most autonomous attitude tracking involves
> very small excursions of flight controls.
> If rudder motion was a source of error, just
> how often and under what conditions would
> that error manifest?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 04/25/18 |
I am going to run Bob's contribution thru the DeGausser to understand it
all=F0=9F=98=8E
I just bought a $40.00 DeGausser to heal my windup Mantel clock
KenB
On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 1:30 AM, AeroElectric-List Digest Server <
aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> wrote:
> *
>
> ========================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ========================
>
> Today's complete AeroElectric-List Digest can also be found in either of
> the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the AeroElectric-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
> editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style
> 82701&View=html&Chapter 18-04-25&Archive=AeroElectric
>
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>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style
> 82701&View=txt&Chapter 18-04-25&Archive=AeroElectric
>
>
> ========================
=======================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ========================
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>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> AeroElectric-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed 04/25/18: 10
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 01:44 AM - Degaussing (tshort)
> 2. 02:22 AM - Re: Degaussing (John Cox)
> 3. 05:52 AM - Re: Degaussing (user9253)
> 4. 06:35 AM - Re: Degaussing (FLYaDIVE)
> 5. 06:36 AM - Re: Re: Degaussing (FLYaDIVE)
> 6. 06:40 AM - Re: Magic stuff . . . (Alec Myers)
> 7. 06:53 AM - Re: Magic stuff . . . (Kelly McMullen)
> 8. 12:37 PM - Re: Re: Degaussing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
> 9. 12:51 PM - Re: Degaussing (David Lloyd)
> 10. 07:51 PM - Re: Degaussing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:44:57 AM PST US
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Degaussing
> From: "tshort" <tmshort@gmail.com>
>
>
> The aft mounted magnetometer in my RV 10 has failed interference testing,
> only
> when the rudder moves.
>
> Garmin tells me I need to degauss the rudder cables.
>
> Anyone have suggestions on how to do so?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479541#479541
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:22:12 AM PST US
> From: John Cox <rv10pro@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Degaussing
>
> Start with a simple (Free)Android phone app
> Such as Gauss Meter by Keuwlsoft. It will help locate or confirm the ite
m
> that becomes mangetized.
>
> A degauss process is a coil of wire which creates a demagnetize field whe
n
> switched on. They were commonly used by TV techs in the 60s -70s to remo
ve
> interference in Cathode Ray color picture tubes back in the day.
>
> John Cox
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 01:50 tshort <tmshort@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > The aft mounted magnetometer in my RV 10 has failed interference testin
g,
> > only when the rudder moves.
> >
> > Garmin tells me I need to degauss the rudder cables.
> >
> > Anyone have suggestions on how to do so?
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479541#479541
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:52:54 AM PST US
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Degaussing
> From: "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com>
>
>
> Try a soldering gun (NOT a soldering iron). Remove the two screws that
> hold the
> heating element. Put the heating element around the rudder cable and
> reassemble
> the soldering gun. Turn on the soldering gun and slowly move it along th
e
> rudder cable, being careful not to burn yourself or anything else.
> I have never done this and have never heard about others doing it. But
> hey, it
> is worth a try.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479544#479544
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:35:17 AM PST US
> From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Degaussing
>
> Hello Shorty:
>
> Very Interesting!
> In the good old days it was very easy to make a Degaussing Coil (D-C),
> actually the coil was already made for you and all you had to do was hook
> up 110 VAC.
> The Coil was the DEFLECTION COIL on the back of the old TV's... It is th
e
> large coil that slipped over the shank of the CRT... Cathode Ray Tube.
> All that a D-C is, is a very long length of a coil of wire. To the ends
of
> the coil you apply 110 VAC through a PUSH BUTTON switch. It continuously
> reverses the magnetic fields at the rate of 60 times per second (60 Hz).
> The coil is then slowly moved in ONE DIRECTION along the length of the it
em
> you wish to demagnetize.
>
> OK, lets prove the cables are magnetized. I doubt it! Why? Because the
> cable are made of a low ferrous metal. The cables are advertised as
> Stainless Steel (S/S). True, not all S/S is non-magnetic.
> Start with a COMPASS - Move the compass along the length of the cables an
d
> of course the STEEL pivot points. The Compass will point directly to the
> magnetized item.
>
> Sounds like you are installing a G5 system?
>
> ALSO... Go back and watch your DG/HSI as you move the rudder peddles. T
he
> Heading should change as the peddles are moved. Move them slowly from st
op
> to stop. My SWAG is: If the Heading does NOT change - Don't worry about
> it, you are good to go! The test procedure is way more sensitive/selecti
ve
> than the Magnetometer and the DG/HSI.
> If the DG/HSI does move then YES - Use the D-C.
> Side Note: You can also do as ships do: Fly a course in direct Oppositi
on
> to the magnetic fields of the earth. This is used to Degauss the ship...
> in your case the plane (ship). Look up Ship Degaussing procedures - Chec
k
> out "The Chapman's Manual".
>
> Since there are very few old TV's which you can steal a coil from let's
> move to your next options.
> 1 - Look for a place where you can purchase or rent a D-C. Look at the o
ld
> electronic shops.
> 2 - Obtain a ROLL of INSULATED wire - 24 to 34 AWG about 1,000 Ft. You
> will have to have access to BOTH ends of the wire. Then all you have to
do
> connect a 110 VAC line and a Push Button Switch to the ends. The go GAUS
S!
>
> Best of luck,
> Barry
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 4:44 AM, tshort <tmshort@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > The aft mounted magnetometer in my RV 10 has failed interference testin
g,
> > only when the rudder moves.
> >
> > Garmin tells me I need to degauss the rudder cables.
> >
> > Anyone have suggestions on how to do so?
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479541#479541
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:36:18 AM PST US
> From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Degaussing
>
> WOW! GREAT TRICK JOE!!! GREAT TRICK!
>
> Barry
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 8:52 AM, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > Try a soldering gun (NOT a soldering iron). Remove the two screws that
> > hold the heating element. Put the heating element around the rudder
> cable
> > and reassemble the soldering gun. Turn on the soldering gun and slowly
> > move it along the rudder cable, being careful not to burn yourself or
> > anything else.
> > I have never done this and have never heard about others doing it. But
> > hey, it is worth a try.
> >
> > --------
> > Joe Gores
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479544#479544
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:40:12 AM PST US
> From: Alec Myers <alec@alecmyers.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Magic stuff . . .
>
>
> Thanks Bob! I shall continue with my present practice of carefully NOT
> spraying
> WD40 into every switch annually.
>
>
> On Apr 24, 2018, at 11:13 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> wrote:
>
> At 07:12 PM 4/24/2018, you wrote:
> >
> > I lost track of which Bob was recommending annual WD-40 as a switch
> failure preventive
> prophylactic, and which Bob wasnt.
> > Can someone advise?
>
> The short answer is "no".
>
> The longer answer is, check the engineering
> data on any line of switches or relays you
> might be considering for your project. You
> will find a constellation of styles and
> ratings. It will be a rare switch or relay
> that is rated for less than TENS OF THOUSANDS
> of operations at rated load.
>
> Now, consider how heavily you are going to load
> this device . . . pushing the ratings? Probably
> not. So from an ELECTRICAL perspective, the
> service life of this devices will be some factor
> greater than rated. Then we consider mechanical
> service life . . . which logically exceeds the
> rated electrical service life.
>
> Now, how many operations are you going to put
> on this device every year? Based on your
> anticipated service demands, how many flight
> hours will you put on the switch before it's
> at risk for end of life? Trust me, it's a BIG
> number . . . so big in fact that and end of
> life failure is exceedingly tiny if not
> zero. You cannot wear out that device during
> your life experience with the airplane.
>
> Hmmmm . . . switches and relays get replaced
> all the time. Yup . . . and probably for
> reasons unrelated to actual operating cycles
> on the device. Okay, what's the reason
> for premature failure? It's probably a combination
> of serval things . . . most of which you'll
> have no control over.
>
> Hmmmm . . . what's a poor owner operator to do?
> Can't tell you without going through the kinds
> of failure analysis that dominated the last
> 10 years of my career in GA. The analysis
> was expensive, time consuming and seldom
> revealed a cheap and dirty resolution. Some
> failures were one-of events usually based
> on some fabrication error . . . it took
> 5-6 weeks of pushing one poor customer's
> airplane up the chain of time, talent
> and resources before I talked the pilots
> into letting me tape a 37 conductor ribbon
> cable to the fuselage and past gaskets in
> the baggage and passenger doors. With this
> rig I was able to watch a constellation
> of parameters in the tail while we climbed
> to 41000 feet . . . one more time . . . in
> search of the elusive failure.
>
> Found a crimp pin in a pressure bulkhead feed
> through that was not seated. The wire bundles
> had to get cold and shrink enough to pull the
> pin back and cause the failure to manifest.
>
> That 10-cent error cost tens of thousands
> to chase down.
>
> What's this have to do with switches on your
> panel? It's but one example of how root cause
> for a mis-behavior can run the range from
> observable broken wires, dripping water or
> hydraulic fluid, temperature cycles combined
> with ozone concentrations, . . . all the way
> up to failures that would only manifest
> at altitude after consuming about as much fuel
> in one flight as my wife's Saturn consumed in
> a year.
>
> Go back and look at the engineering data for
> the device. I've never seen a manufacturer
> recommend any form of periodic maintenance . . .
> much less squirt 'magic stuff' into the device's
> cracks with some notion of improving service
> life or, worse yet, 'refurbishing' a misbehaving
> switch.
>
> Back in the day, we had several cans of cleaners,
> lubes, sealers, etc. on the workbench where we
> repaired radio and television sets. It was always
> gratifying to drive the mischief out of a rotary
> switch, noisy volume control or arcing flyback
> transformer with a squirt of magic stuff.
>
> But we're talking about airplanes now. We're
> talking about devices that have obviously failed
> to meet service life predictions. Okay, now what?
> What forces in physics are responsible? Will
> 'magic stuff' mitigate those forces . . .
> probably not. Will they 'repair' the effects
> or simply squeeze a few more operations out of
> a device that is close to gross failure? Finally,
> how do you KNOW that you've squirted the magic
> stuff into the RIGHT location and that it
> doesn't present a new hazard to functionality
> if it gets into the WRONG location.
>
> Finally, how hard is it to replace a $5 switch that's
> held on the panel with one nut and wired with a
> couple or three fast-ons? I used to recommend
> that my seminar attendees take a sunny afternoon
> and $50 worth of switches and replace everything
> on the panel . . . just for the hell of it.
>
> System reliability benefits far more from
> preventative maintenance than it does from
> magic stuff applied to a device that's already
> begging for help.
>
> One more example. One day at Beech, a sales
> rep came out to pitch a particular kind of
> magic stuff. I think it was called "Stabilant 22."
>
> It was reputed, nay, demonstrated to improve the
> quality of metallic connection between pins and
> sockets in our harness connectors. So, we
> piled engineering data, test reports, user
> testimonials, etc. etc. against field service
> experience on a fleet of thousands of airplanes
> gathered over 50+ years.
>
> Yeah, Stabilant 22 was pretty whippy stuff . . .
> but expensive and labor intensive with a risk
> for waste due to spillage and getting it on
> the wrong surfaces. I could just see the faces
> of our line techs when we handed each one a bottle
> of magic stuff with a requirement to properly apply
> to each connector before it was mated up.
>
> Then, there was the question, what's the return
> on investment? After some consideration, we deduced
> that it was a 'fix' for a problem we didn't have.
>
> So there your have the long answer. If any combination
> of components on your airplane is crying out for
> help, then replace on condition is the
> lowest risk and probably the lowest cost approach
> to risk management. WD40 is good for the kid's
> tricycle that might sit out and get rained on
> from time to time.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:53:45 AM PST US
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Magic stuff . . .
> From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
>
>
> Another side to the issue. WD-40 is essentially fish oil or a synthetic
> clone of fish oil. It dries up over time and leaves a very sticky mess,
> as well as attracting dirt.
> If you insist on lubricating connections, ACF-50 or Corrosion X or just
> contact cleaner are better alternatives.
> The only use I have found for WD-40 around an airplane that doesn't
> cause future problems is to use it as a belly cleaning solution.
>
> Kelly
>
> On 4/25/2018 6:38 AM, Alec Myers wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Bob! I shall continue with my present practice of carefully NOT
> spraying
> WD40 into every switch annually.
> >
>
> >> I lost track of which Bob was recommending annual WD-40 as a switch
> failure
> preventive prophylactic, and which Bob wasnt.
> >> Can someone advise?
> >
> > The short answer is "no".
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 8
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:37:59 PM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Degaussing
>
> Try a soldering gun (NOT a soldering iron).
> Remove the two screws that hold the heating
> element. Put the heating element around the
> rudder cable and reassemble the soldering gun.
> Turn on the soldering gun and slowly move it
> along the rudder cable, being careful not to
> burn yourself or anything else.
>
> I have never done this and have never heard
> about others doing it. But hey, it is worth a try.
>
>
> It works. I've used the soldering gun to
> demag small tools. There are several articles
> on the 'net for doing similar tasks.
>
> demagnitizer from old soldering gun.jpg
>
>
> Here the author made up a coil of longer
> wire (gives stronger field with less heating).
>
> One could take a piece of bare 12AWG copper
> and form it 4-5 turns around the target
> material before reconnecting to the soldering
> gun. I've measured the current in stock
> Weller tips at over 200 amps. So using
> the single-turn of a stock tip would
> give you 200+ ampere-turns of flux.
>
> Fabricated coils will be higher
> resistance but if you can get 150A
> through 5 turns, your degaussing flux
> rises to 750AT.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ________________________________ Message 9
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:51:05 PM PST US
> From: "David Lloyd" <skywagon@charter.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Degaussing
>
> =2E . . any chance there is other electronics "back" there that are ope
rati
> onal, such as tail strobe and power supply causing interference with flux
..
> ??
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------------
> -----
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 6:33 AM
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Degaussing
>
>
> Hello Shorty:
>
>
> Very Interesting!
> In the good old days it was very easy to make a Degaussing Coil (D-C),
ac
> tually the coil was already made for you and all you had to do was hook u
p
> 110 VAC.
> The Coil was the DEFLECTION COIL on the back of the old TV's... It is
th
> e large coil that slipped over the shank of the CRT... Cathode Ray Tube.
>
> All that a D-C is, is a very long length of a coil of wire. To the end
s
> of the coil you apply 110 VAC through a PUSH BUTTON switch. It continuou
sl
> y reverses the magnetic fields at the rate of 60 times per second (60 Hz)
.
> The coil is then slowly moved in ONE DIRECTION along the length of the i
te
> m you wish to demagnetize.
>
>
> OK, lets prove the cables are magnetized. I doubt it! Why? Because t
he
> cable are made of a low ferrous metal. The cables are advertised as Sta
in
> less Steel (S/S). True, not all S/S is non-magnetic.
> Start with a COMPASS - Move the compass along the length of the cables
an
> d of course the STEEL pivot points. The Compass will point directly to t
he
> magnetized item.
>
>
> Sounds like you are installing a G5 system?
>
>
> ALSO... Go back and watch your DG/HSI as you move the rudder peddles.
T
> he Heading should change as the peddles are moved. Move them slowly from
s
> top to stop. My SWAG is: If the Heading does NOT change - Don't worry a
bo
> ut it, you are good to go! The test procedure is way more sensitive/sele
ct
> ive than the Magnetometer and the DG/HSI.
> If the DG/HSI does move then YES - Use the D-C.
> Side Note: You can also do as ships do: Fly a course in direct Opposi
ti
> on to the magnetic fields of the earth. This is used to Degauss the ship
..
> =2E in your case the plane (ship). Look up Ship Degaussing procedures
- C
> heck out "The Chapman's Manual".
>
>
> Since there are very few old TV's which you can steal a coil from let's
m
> ove to your next options.
> 1 - Look for a place where you can purchase or rent a D-C. Look at the
o
> ld electronic shops.
> 2 - Obtain a ROLL of INSULATED wire - 24 to 34 AWG about 1,000 Ft. You
w
> ill have to have access to BOTH ends of the wire. Then all you have to d
o
> connect a 110 VAC line and a Push Button Switch to the ends. The go GAUS
S!
>
>
> Best of luck,
> Barry
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 4:44 AM, tshort <tmshort@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> The aft mounted magnetometer in my RV 10 has failed interference test
in
> g, only when the rudder moves.
>
> Garmin tells me I need to degauss the rudder cables.
>
> Anyone have suggestions on how to do so?
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
> ________________________________ Message 10
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:51:55 PM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Degaussing
>
> At 02:49 PM 4/25/2018, you wrote:
> >=EF=BB
> >. . . any chance there is other electronics
> >"back" there that are operational, such as tail
> >strobe and power supply causing interference with flux..??
>
> Excellent question. I am skeptical of the notion
> that control cables have become magnetized . . .
> and if they were, they would have to carry
> flux lines longitudinally . . . i.e. little
> to no discernable changes in magnetic field
> as the cables operate to affect rudder
> position.
>
> But if moving the rudder has an observable
> effect, then there has to be a foundation
> in physics for the observation.
>
> On the other hand, does it matter? If
> the magnetic compass feature is 'swung'
> with the rudder centered . . . what
> is the probability of introducing a
> critical error into the system's magnetic
> nav data with a large rudder excursion?
> Most autonomous attitude tracking involves
> very small excursions of flight controls.
> If rudder motion was a source of error, just
> how often and under what conditions would
> that error manifest?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 6
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Just as electricity takes the path of least resistance, so do magnetic lines of
force. Even if steel cables are not magnetized, the earth's magnetic field will
concentrate in the cables and follow them instead of going through the air.
There are driveway alarm sensors that detect a change in the earth's magnetic
field when a vehicle passes by.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479574#479574
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Double pole switch failure mode? |
Thanks Jeff. If a second alternator was added to your diagram, I think the main
difference would be that you have a single main bus fed from each battery/alternator
via diodes whereas Z-14 has an additional switch to manually close the
Cross-Tie solenoid. That provides you with the 'automatic failover' you are
describing. The main drawback is you can't crank the engine from either battery...not
a safety issue, but most people sooner or later experience going to
the hangar, getting out the airplane, and then it won't crank. It's nice to be
able to use the second battery for cranking since you've got it installed anyway...
-Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479579#479579
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Double pole switch failure mode? |
Thanks Jeff. If a second alternator was added to your diagram, I think the main
difference would be that you have a single main bus fed from each battery/alternator
via diodes whereas Z-14 has an additional switch to manually close the
Cross-Tie solenoid. That provides you with the 'automatic failover' you are
describing. The main drawback is you can't crank the engine from either battery...not
a safety issue, but most people sooner or later experience going to
the hangar, getting out the airplane, and then it won't crank. It's nice to be
able to use the second battery for cranking since you've got it installed anyway...
-Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479580#479580
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Double pole switch failure mode? |
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Double pole switch failure mode?
From: "czechsix" <czechsix@msn.com>
Bob,
I'm interested in Z-14 for my RV-14A, not my RV-8A. I was just
pointing out that back when I built my RV-8A I don't think the wiring
diagrams were available in an editable format, so I used ink and
whiteout. The -8A had single alternator and one PC680 main battery
plus a small backup battery dedicated to one of the elec ignition
systems. I only flew it VFR.
Understand. Sorry 'bout that. Too many irons in
the fire . . .
On the RV-14A, it will be full IFR cross country cruiser with all
glass panel and I'm planning to use SDS electronic fuel injection and
elec ignition. That's a lot of stuff riding on the electrical
system, especially given that you need to have the high pressure elec
fuel pump running at all times (no engine driven pump with EFI).
Dual pumps?
<snip>
. . . Therefore I plan to use the 20-40A B&C 410-H as my second
alternator on the vac pad (it isn't much different cost-wise from the
SD-8, main downside is a couple more pounds).
Agreed.
Then there's the question of single vs dual batteries. I would like
to take advantage of the weight savings of the EarthX battery, but I
don't yet trust it 100%...obviously anything can fail (including a
PC680), but EarthX has a lot of built-in smarts that I don't fully
understand and among other things it can completely shut itself off
if it isn't happy. With one battery, the importance of good
maintenance goes up and replacement intervals get shorter (at least
my philosophy is to replace a single battery every 3 years even if it
is performing well). Furthermore with a single battery, the avionics
and ECU/ignition system may reboot while cranking.
I think the EarthX products have paid their dues
in the marketplace. The electronics are modeled
after the Battery Management Systems in the PMA/
STC products from True Blue. I was reasonably
aware of the development of that product, even
got to witness some of the catastrophic failure
testing during my last tenure in TC aviation at
Textron.
The only time these batteries 'get unhappy'
is discharge below some lower threshold which
is to prevent battery destruction . . . it's
value below that which represents less than
5% state of charge . . . i..e pooped.
It also shuts down for high current drain
numbers that pose risk for battery destruction
but comfortably greater than cranking currents
expected on your airplane.
I would have no heartburn flying an EarthX . . . not
so much for lithium products with lesser battery
management systems.
Adding a second battery addresses these concerns. The TCW backup
battery could be a solution for the second battery, but it costs more
than an EarthX battery and has more limited capacity.
So I'm thinking I'll use two EarthX batteries, <snip> so it's break
even with respect to weight.
Agreed. The aux battery could be smaller since
its critical duties are limited to mitigation
of brownout-reset issues.
So...that leads me to Z-14. It addresses all my requirements and
concerns in a way that Z-13/8 does not. The main thing I'm trying to
decide with Z-14 is where to connect all the engine related
stuff. Most of the parts are dual redundant (ECUs, ignition coils,
pumps) so I could split those up between the two respective battery
buses. The one part that is not redundant is the injectors. So I
was thinking about running the power for the injectors off a bus that
is fed via diodes from each battery.
I don't see any value in diode isolated
dual feeders . . . the main bus already
has feeders from 4 energy sources. A few
years back, one of my builders split the
injector supplies such that each injector
had its own fuse. This offered fault isolation
that prevents a single fault from taking all
the injectors off line. His engine would
produce power to sustain flight while missing
the fuel flow of on injector.
I think you're on the right track. Sorry
for the light participation in this thread.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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DUH!
On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 12:29 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 07:29 AM 4/26/2018, you wrote:
>
> I tried most of the suggestions listed but finally had to move the
> magnetometer as high as I could from the rudder cables. Right behind the
> baggage compartment was great. I have never had a compass as accurate. You
> can also change the cables to a good grade of Stainless ( non magnetic )
> Steel.
>
> Keep your cables far away from a DC welding machine while building.
>
>
> Upon further pondering of your observations
> and success, I'm now thinking that the cables
> were probably not magnetized. If they are
> MAGNETIC . . . meaning that they are attracted
> to a magnet . . . then they are capable of
> DISTORTING an external magnetic field (earth
> flux) without being magnetized.
>
> This condition seems more likely . . .
>
> Mounting earth flux sensors of any strip
> on or within vehicles has been fraught with
> challenges. Most of our experience with
> aluminum and plastic airplanes has been pretty
> benign but there are occasional exceptions.
> Had a guy on the List a few years back that
> had a badly magnetized fuselage frame for
> a rag-n-tube airplane.
>
> From what you've shared here, it's almost
> a certainty that degaussing the cables would
> have not been useful. Further, the problem
> you observed and worked around was a simple
> distortion due to proximity.
>
> Thanks for sharing!
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 11
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>From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
>Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2018 22:49:22 -0400
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Magnetomer
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Sender: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>X-Keywords:
>
>
>DUH!
And this advances the conversation how?
Bob . . .
Message 12
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Finally thinking about getting the mess-making
shop air-conditioned. I've been cruising the
offerings of this firm . . .
https://goo.gl/vLLnmB
My son and brother-in-law have used these
guys with satisfaction. I'm probably going
to get a 24KBTU, 14SEER condenser and coil
box for well under $1000 delivered to my
door here in the hinterlands.
Thought I'd turn the DIY HVAC guys onto
this resource. If you have a space that could
use some comfort enhancement, you may find
an attractive approach to the task on these
pages . . .
Bob . . .
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