---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 05/06/18: 14 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 09:23 AM - Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? (William Hunter) 2. 09:35 AM - Re: 24AWG airframe wire (speedy11@aol.com) 3. 09:45 AM - Current Limiter Questions (Art Zemon) 4. 10:23 AM - Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? (Richard E. Tasker) 5. 10:29 AM - Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? (Charlie England) 6. 11:09 AM - Re: Current Limiter Questions (Eric Page) 7. 11:35 AM - Cable end crimping (GLEN MATEJCEK) 8. 01:02 PM - Re: Crimping connectors on AWG 4 and 6 cable (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 9. 01:06 PM - Re: Re: 24AWG airframe wire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 10. 01:07 PM - Re: Re: Current Limiter Questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 11. 06:27 PM - Re: Re: Current Limiter Questions (Art Zemon) 12. 07:43 PM - Re: Current Limiter Questions (user9253) 13. 07:50 PM - Re: Re: Current Limiter Questions (Charlie England) 14. 08:05 PM - Re: Re: Current Limiter Questions (Art Zemon) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 09:23:05 AM PST US From: "William Hunter" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? Hi All, Sorry about the delay in getting back to you (work sometimes interferes with my regularly scheduled life). THANKS for the time in sharing your advice!!! While shopping for Ubiquiti bridge on Amazon I found these power line extenders: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-802-11ac-Gigabit/dp/B01929V7ZG /ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525622222&sr=8-3&keywords=Powerline+Networking+with +wifi Does anyone have any experience with this type of WIFI extender devices??? It seems that with this design the first unit receives the WIFI signal and then since it is plugged into a wall outlet it transmits the digital signal over the copper wiring in the house. Any other units plugged into the house power supply will then grab that signal and then transmit the WIFI. They say you can use up to 15 of these units scattered about the house to extend your WIFI. My hangar gets it power supply from the house power downstream from the meter so imagine it would work in the same manner as if the box was plugged into an outlet in the other room. If they work it would be much easier to install than the plan A of running a CAT 5 cable up to the attic and then to the house eve where the WIFI extender antenna would be located and then the same setup out in the hangar...PLUS...the master bedroom of the house is a bit far from the router so the signal coverage is poor so hopefully if I buy three of these devices I can get better WIFI in the master bedroom as well as getting WIFI out in the hangar. Technology is great...IF it works!!! .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Thursday, May 3, 2018 8:40 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? Hi Bill, With wifi there are so many ways you can do the various links, from repeaters to hard wired and then wireless bridges to jump the gap. I personally prefer to hardware to the bridges. So, going that route looks like this: Assuming you have a current router that has an open LAN port on it to plug a hard wired device, you run a cable from the router to under your eaves or anywhere that you can get line of sight to the hangar. Literally any line of site should work fine. You plug the cable into the Ubiquiti bridge and run it to the router. You connect a little power-over-ethernet box into that cable, and then your router uses a second shorter patch cable to connect to that POE box as well. That POE box makes things real nice as you don't have to run a power circuit to the bridge, but it's fed by the CAT5/6 cable by injecting power inline. Now you're broadcasting. And these things can go point to point, or point to multipoint, so if you had other garages, you just need another one for every site you want to connect into the system. Here are 2 versions of bridge. You can use whichever frequency band you want. https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-0000070700985-NanoStation-loco/dp /B004EHSV4W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525361752&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+nanos tation+loco+m5 https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoStation-locoM2-2-4GHz-Outdoor/dp/B00DC NRTAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525361777&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+nanostation +loco+m2 On the hangar end, you have basically a very similar thing, in that you have a power injector with a CAT5/6 cable to the wireless bridge device. But, on the inside of that POE converter, you just connect a patch cable to whatever router or access point you want to use in the hangar. You do NOT use the WAN port if you use a router, as this router you would want operating in wireless access point mode. There are just hundreds of choices, and I've never bought Ubiquiti for in-home AP's before, but something like this would work. https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-UAP-AC-Iw-Wireless-Access/dp/B06XZLP 8Q6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525361647&sr=8-2&keywords=unifi+ac+in-wall As would something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY /ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525361714&sr=8-1&keywords=unifi+apac+lite So just plug the cat5/6 from the AP into the same power injector on the LAN side, (or if it offers it's own POE adapter just use CAT5/6 to connect them together) and then you now have a wireless AP in your hangar that's on the same network as your house network is. You can set the same SSID if you wish, on the AP, and the same security, and everything. I'm a fan of not buying all-in-one wireless routers, because it allows you to buy a nice little router and then have separate AP's to locate in places to better cover the house. Anyway, that's a general picture of what you'd buy and how you'd connect it. Programming them is pretty easy too. Tim On 5/2/2018 11:32 PM, William Hunter wrote: > Yes I admit this topic is a bit over my headso THANKS for your help. > >> It all depends on how much cash you put in, but in general the most > you could spend would be a couple hundred bucks if you went real deluxe. > > 200 bucks is within the threshold of painless pain than digging > >> you would then still put a wireless access point in the hangar if you >> want wifi > > Yes preferred based on the need for handheld phones in addition to the > PC (poor cellphone coverage here so WIFI is the only internet show in > town) > >>They have a range of 10km, > > The house does not have any windows that face the hangar so some kind > of remote antenna under the eve of the roof would be ideal how does > the WIFI get from the inside router to the rocket antenna? > > The hangar is only 50 feet wall to wall > > .. > > Cheers!!! > > Bill Hunter > > *From:*owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of > *Tim Olson > *Sent:* Wednesday, May 2, 2018 9:12 PM > *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My > Remote Steel Hangar??? > > I set up a pair of these Ubiquiti Loco M5's for a hangar to hangar > bridge of a few hundred feet at our airport this year. They are very > easy to configure and work very well. > As mentioned by Charlie, you would then still put a wireless access > point in the hangar if you want wifi there (or you could hard wire a > PC direct). > They have a range of 10km, so you probably want to lower the power > level for a short link, but, they should be very reliable and fast. > You can also buy some versions of wireless AP that can act as a > wireless client to your home wifi, and mount that on the hangar and > run the cable to your PC in the hangar. > There are just so many ways to skin the cat. It all depends on how > much cash you put in, but in general the most you could spend would be > a couple hundred bucks if you went real deluxe. > > Tim > > On 5/2/2018 10:25 PM, Charlie England wrote: > > There are probably much more qualified people here that can advise, > but I've done similar stuff. > > I'd be doubtful of remoting one of the router's antennas, unless it > specifically says you can. Most of the new stuff operates at roughly > 5 times the frequency of our transponders. Dozens of feet of coax at > those frequencies... not likely to work well. > > One way is to wire a 2nd router to your network, positioned where > the hangar can 'see' it. Place what's known as an 'access point' at > the hangar, where it can 'see' the router at the house. Wire the > access point to an additional router in the hangar. The kicker to > all this is configuring everything to talk to each other. I did it > years ago, when a neighbor could get DSL but my house was just too > far away from the DSLAM to work. I now have a bad DSL connection, > and a decent LTE modem serving my home network, and I've forgotten > most of the config details. > > A better option, Ubiquiti Nanostations, would look functionally > similar, but would probably be easier to set up. I haven't used > these, but they come highly recommended by guys on a Linux user > group I monitor. > > https://www.google.com/search?q=Ubiquiti+nano+stations&oq=Ubiquiti+nan > o+stations&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i65.7250182j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF- > 8 > > A bit over $100 for a pair, and you'll still need another router in > the hangar. > > A third option, if the hangar AC power is fed from the house's meter > and panel, would be a power line networking pair. Note that both the > transmitter and receiver need to be on the same 'side' of the panel > (same phase of your AC power). Look here for options. > > https://www.google.com/search?q=powerline+network+extender&oq=power+li > ne+network&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l5.11494j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 > > Charlie > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 09:35:56 AM PST US From: speedy11@aol.com Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: 24AWG airframe wire Agree. I had to provide support for the Ray Allen 24AWG wires at the servo to insure there would be no flexing. Do you know if there are any reported issues due to Allen's use of the tiny wire? Stan Sutterfield >Bob, > > From my limited experience, I see no demonstrable benefit to > working with wire as fine as 24AWG. Certainly the weight is a > non-issue. 24AWG is downright dainty compared to 20AWG. I think it > is criminal that Ray Allen uses such fine wire in its servo > pigtails. To me, using such fine wire is just asking for trouble. I had conversations with those folk about that several years running at OSH. Those conversations that prompted the article I posted at . . . https://goo.gl/GmNi5Q The use of 24 AWG in Premier wasn't so much a weight thing as it was a volume and to some extent a flexibility issue. The battle between various systems groups can approach blood-letting ferocity when parceling out spaces in the airframe. Of course, the engine and flight controls guys are at the top of the hierarchy with everyone else scrambling for the 'scraps'. My heart bled for the HVAC guys . . . making ductwork smaller was never a happy thought. I had the electrical-avionics group on the GP180 when it was still a joint venture between Gates and Piaggio . . . so been there, done that. We were happy to get Tefzel wires on the airplane at the time. The 'open' spaces between cabin trim and the aircraft skin on that airplane was just about an inch . . . There were structural limitations on just how big a hole you could put in a former to run tubes, wires, etc. I wasn't closely connected to the Premier program at Beech, but wrestling matches were equally exciting if not more so. The 24AWG in airframe bundles was all assembled on form boards with wires measured and terminated on automatic machines. It had very little impact on the line techs. But I agree, the 24AWG flying leads off the MAC/RA servos served no customer-friendly purpose. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 09:45:51 AM PST US From: Art Zemon Subject: AeroElectric-List: Current Limiter Questions Folks, I am installing the current limiters in my plane. The engine is a Lycoming IO-360 with a primary alternator (the belt driven one that came with the used engine) and a B&C Aero backup alternator. Here is the photo: I tied the ends together with a piece of brass buss bar from B&C. Spec says that it is .025 x .5. Is that sufficient to carry the load for this plane? My analysis has these loads: Typical 19 amps, 29 amps maximum With all devices on, including pitot heat: typical 32 amps, 49 amps maximum Also, B&C Aero shipped the current limiter holders with locknuts that have plastic inserts. Are those OK on the engine side of the firewall? I thought that I should only use all-metal locknuts on the engine side. -- Art Z. -- https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel* ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 10:23:13 AM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? From: "Richard E. Tasker" Haven't used these specifically, but Netgear is a reputable company and this technology is mature (as evidenced by all the Chinese copies among other things) and certainly an inexpensive easy solution. I use another product based on powerline connections and it works over a significant distance (probably 500+ feet although I haven't actually measured it). The main caution is that they have to be connected to the same phase on each end. Pretty easy to test. If the signal is poor just swap one of the connections (find an outlet that is connected to the other phase). If you have anything that generates a lot of powerline noise (e.g. arc welder) it could be a problem but for typical motors, etc. should work fine. I believe that someone else already suggested this as a solution to your dilemma. Dick Tasker William Hunter wrote: > > Hi All, > > Sorry about the delay in getting back to you (work sometimes interferes with > my regularly scheduled life). THANKS for the time in sharing your advice!!! > > While shopping for Ubiquiti bridge on Amazon I found these power line > extenders: > > https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-802-11ac-Gigabit/dp/B01929V7ZG > /ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525622222&sr=8-3&keywords=Powerline+Networking+with > +wifi > > Does anyone have any experience with this type of WIFI extender devices??? > > It seems that with this design the first unit receives the WIFI signal and > then since it is plugged into a wall outlet it transmits the digital signal > over the copper wiring in the house. Any other units plugged into the house > power supply will then grab that signal and then transmit the WIFI. They > say you can use up to 15 of these units scattered about the house to extend > your WIFI. > > My hangar gets it power supply from the house power downstream from the > meter so imagine it would work in the same manner as if the box was plugged > into an outlet in the other room. > > > If they work it would be much easier to install than the plan A of running a > CAT 5 cable up to the attic and then to the house eve where the WIFI > extender antenna would be located and then the same setup out in the > hangar...PLUS...the master bedroom of the house is a bit far from the router > so the signal coverage is poor so hopefully if I buy three of these devices > I can get better WIFI in the master bedroom as well as getting WIFI out in > the hangar. > > Technology is great...IF it works!!! > > .. > > Cheers!!! > > Bill Hunter > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Thursday, May 3, 2018 8:40 AM > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote > Steel Hangar??? > > > > Hi Bill, > > With wifi there are so many ways you can do the various links, from > repeaters to hard wired and then wireless bridges to jump the gap. I > personally prefer to hardware > to the bridges. So, going that route looks like this: > > Assuming you have a current router that has an open LAN port on it to plug a > hard wired device, you run a cable from the router to under your eaves or > anywhere that you can get line of sight to the hangar. Literally any line of > site should work fine. You plug the cable into the Ubiquiti bridge and run > it to the router. You connect a little power-over-ethernet box into that > cable, and then your router uses a second shorter patch cable to connect to > that POE box as well. That POE box makes things real nice as you don't have > to run a power circuit to the bridge, but it's fed by the CAT5/6 cable by > injecting power inline. > > Now you're broadcasting. And these things can go point > to point, or point to multipoint, so if you had other garages, you just need > another one for every site you want to connect into the system. > > Here are 2 versions of bridge. You can use whichever frequency band you > want. > > https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-0000070700985-NanoStation-loco/dp > /B004EHSV4W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525361752&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+nanos > tation+loco+m5 > > > https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoStation-locoM2-2-4GHz-Outdoor/dp/B00DC > NRTAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525361777&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+nanostation > +loco+m2 > > > On the hangar end, you have basically a very similar thing, in that you have > a power injector with a CAT5/6 cable to the wireless bridge device. But, on > the inside of that POE converter, you just connect a patch cable to whatever > router or access point you want to use in the hangar. You do NOT use the > WAN port if you use a router, as this router you would want operating in > wireless access point mode. > > There are just hundreds of choices, and I've never bought Ubiquiti for > in-home AP's before, but something like this would work. > > > https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-UAP-AC-Iw-Wireless-Access/dp/B06XZLP > 8Q6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525361647&sr=8-2&keywords=unifi+ac+in-wall > > As would something like this: > https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY > /ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525361714&sr=8-1&keywords=unifi+apac+lite > > So just plug the cat5/6 from the AP into the same power injector on the LAN > side, (or if it offers it's own POE adapter just use CAT5/6 to connect them > together) and then you now have a wireless AP in your hangar that's on the > same network as your house network is. > > You can set the same SSID if you wish, on the AP, and the same security, and > everything. > > I'm a fan of not buying all-in-one wireless routers, because it allows you > to buy a nice little router and then have separate AP's to locate in places > to better cover the house. > > > Anyway, that's a general picture of what you'd buy and how you'd connect it. > Programming them is pretty easy too. > > Tim > > > On 5/2/2018 11:32 PM, William Hunter wrote: >> Yes I admit this topic is a bit over my headso THANKS for your help. >> >>> It all depends on how much cash you put in, but in general the most >> you could spend would be a couple hundred bucks if you went real deluxe. >> >> 200 bucks is within the threshold of painless pain than digging >> >>> you would then still put a wireless access point in the hangar if you >>> want wifi >> Yes preferred based on the need for handheld phones in addition to the >> PC (poor cellphone coverage here so WIFI is the only internet show in >> town) >> >>> They have a range of 10km, >> The house does not have any windows that face the hangar so some kind >> of remote antenna under the eve of the roof would be ideal how does >> the WIFI get from the inside router to the rocket antenna? >> >> The hangar is only 50 feet wall to wall >> >> .. >> >> Cheers!!! >> >> Bill Hunter >> >> *From:*owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of >> *Tim Olson >> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 2, 2018 9:12 PM >> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My >> Remote Steel Hangar??? >> >> I set up a pair of these Ubiquiti Loco M5's for a hangar to hangar >> bridge of a few hundred feet at our airport this year. They are very >> easy to configure and work very well. >> As mentioned by Charlie, you would then still put a wireless access >> point in the hangar if you want wifi there (or you could hard wire a >> PC direct). >> They have a range of 10km, so you probably want to lower the power >> level for a short link, but, they should be very reliable and fast. >> You can also buy some versions of wireless AP that can act as a >> wireless client to your home wifi, and mount that on the hangar and >> run the cable to your PC in the hangar. >> There are just so many ways to skin the cat. It all depends on how >> much cash you put in, but in general the most you could spend would be >> a couple hundred bucks if you went real deluxe. >> >> Tim >> >> On 5/2/2018 10:25 PM, Charlie England wrote: >> >> There are probably much more qualified people here that can advise, >> but I've done similar stuff. >> >> I'd be doubtful of remoting one of the router's antennas, unless it >> specifically says you can. Most of the new stuff operates at roughly >> 5 times the frequency of our transponders. Dozens of feet of coax at >> those frequencies... not likely to work well. >> >> One way is to wire a 2nd router to your network, positioned where >> the hangar can 'see' it. Place what's known as an 'access point' at >> the hangar, where it can 'see' the router at the house. Wire the >> access point to an additional router in the hangar. The kicker to >> all this is configuring everything to talk to each other. I did it >> years ago, when a neighbor could get DSL but my house was just too >> far away from the DSLAM to work. I now have a bad DSL connection, >> and a decent LTE modem serving my home network, and I've forgotten >> most of the config details. >> >> A better option, Ubiquiti Nanostations, would look functionally >> similar, but would probably be easier to set up. I haven't used >> these, but they come highly recommended by guys on a Linux user >> group I monitor. >> >> https://www.google.com/search?q=Ubiquiti+nano+stations&oq=Ubiquiti+nan >> o+stations&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i65.7250182j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF- >> 8 >> >> A bit over $100 for a pair, and you'll still need another router in >> the hangar. >> >> A third option, if the hangar AC power is fed from the house's meter >> and panel, would be a power line networking pair. Note that both the >> transmitter and receiver need to be on the same 'side' of the panel >> (same phase of your AC power). Look here for options. >> >> https://www.google.com/search?q=powerline+network+extender&oq=power+li >> ne+network&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l5.11494j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 >> >> Charlie >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:29:48 AM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? That's the type device I mentioned as the last option in my earlier post. Read the reviews, taking with a grain of salt the tech savvy of the reviewer. And other companies make the same type device; look at those as well. My earlier post linked a google search for this type device. As I mentioned, it's likely that both devices will need to be on the same 'side' of your 220V AC power, if not on the same circuit breaker. You might have great luck with it, or terrible luck, depending on your wiring situation and whether you get it set up properly. If you have a Prime account & can return for free, it might be worth a shot. But the Ubiquiti stuff, while a bit more work, is almost a certainty of high quality signal. Charlie On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 11:21 AM, William Hunter wrote: > billhuntersemail@gmail.com> > > Hi All, > > Sorry about the delay in getting back to you (work sometimes interferes > with > my regularly scheduled life). THANKS for the time in sharing your > advice!!! > > While shopping for Ubiquiti bridge on Amazon I found these power line > extenders: > > https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-802- > 11ac-Gigabit/dp/B01929V7ZG > /ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525622222&sr=8-3&keywords > Powerline+Networking+with > +wifi > > Does anyone have any experience with this type of WIFI extender > devices??? > > It seems that with this design the first unit receives the WIFI signal an d > then since it is plugged into a wall outlet it transmits the digital sign al > over the copper wiring in the house. Any other units plugged into the > house > power supply will then grab that signal and then transmit the WIFI. They > say you can use up to 15 of these units scattered about the house to exte nd > your WIFI. > > My hangar gets it power supply from the house power downstream from the > meter so imagine it would work in the same manner as if the box was plugg ed > into an outlet in the other room. > > > If they work it would be much easier to install than the plan A of runnin g > a > CAT 5 cable up to the attic and then to the house eve where the WIFI > extender antenna would be located and then the same setup out in the > hangar...PLUS...the master bedroom of the house is a bit far from the > router > so the signal coverage is poor so hopefully if I buy three of these devic es > I can get better WIFI in the master bedroom as well as getting WIFI out i n > the hangar. > > Technology is great...IF it works!!! > > .. > > Cheers!!! > > Bill Hunter > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim > Olson > Sent: Thursday, May 3, 2018 8:40 AM > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remo te > Steel Hangar??? > > > > Hi Bill, > > With wifi there are so many ways you can do the various links, from > repeaters to hard wired and then wireless bridges to jump the gap. I > personally prefer to hardware > to the bridges. So, going that route looks like this: > > Assuming you have a current router that has an open LAN port on it to plu g > a > hard wired device, you run a cable from the router to under your eaves or > anywhere that you can get line of sight to the hangar. Literally any line > of > site should work fine. You plug the cable into the Ubiquiti bridge and r un > it to the router. You connect a little power-over-ethernet box into that > cable, and then your router uses a second shorter patch cable to connect to > that POE box as well. That POE box makes things real nice as you don't > have > to run a power circuit to the bridge, but it's fed by the CAT5/6 cable by > injecting power inline. > > Now you're broadcasting. And these things can go point > to point, or point to multipoint, so if you had other garages, you just > need > another one for every site you want to connect into the system. > > Here are 2 versions of bridge. You can use whichever frequency band you > want. > > https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-0000070700985-NanoStation- > loco/dp > /B004EHSV4W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525361752&sr=8-1& > keywords=ubiquiti+nanos > tation+loco+m5 > > > https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoStation-locoM2-2- > 4GHz-Outdoor/dp/B00DC > NRTAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525361777&sr=8-1&keywords > ubiquiti+nanostation > +loco+m2 > > > On the hangar end, you have basically a very similar thing, in that you > have > a power injector with a CAT5/6 cable to the wireless bridge device. But, > on > the inside of that POE converter, you just connect a patch cable to > whatever > router or access point you want to use in the hangar. You do NOT use the > WAN port if you use a router, as this router you would want operating in > wireless access point mode. > > There are just hundreds of choices, and I've never bought Ubiquiti for > in-home AP's before, but something like this would work. > > > https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-UAP-AC-Iw- > Wireless-Access/dp/B06XZLP > 8Q6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525361647&sr=8-2&keywords=unifi+ac+ in-wall > > As would something like this: > https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite- > UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY > /ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525361714&sr=8-1&keywords=unifi+apac+l ite > > So just plug the cat5/6 from the AP into the same power injector on the L AN > side, (or if it offers it's own POE adapter just use CAT5/6 to connect th em > together) and then you now have a wireless AP in your hangar that's on th e > same network as your house network is. > > You can set the same SSID if you wish, on the AP, and the same security, > and > everything. > > I'm a fan of not buying all-in-one wireless routers, because it allows yo u > to buy a nice little router and then have separate AP's to locate in plac es > to better cover the house. > > > Anyway, that's a general picture of what you'd buy and how you'd connect > it. > Programming them is pretty easy too. > > Tim > > > On 5/2/2018 11:32 PM, William Hunter wrote: > > Yes I admit this topic is a bit over my headso THANKS for your help. > > > >> It all depends on how much cash you put in, but in general the most > > you could spend would be a couple hundred bucks if you went real deluxe .. > > > > 200 bucks is within the threshold of painless pain than diggin g > > > >> you would then still put a wireless access point in the hangar if you > >> want wifi > > > > Yes preferred based on the need for handheld phones in addition to the > > PC (poor cellphone coverage here so WIFI is the only internet show in > > town) > > > >>They have a range of 10km, > > > > The house does not have any windows that face the hangar so some kind > > of remote antenna under the eve of the roof would be ideal how does > > the WIFI get from the inside router to the rocket antenna? > > > > The hangar is only 50 feet wall to wall > > > > .. > > > > Cheers!!! > > > > Bill Hunter > > > > *From:*owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of > > *Tim Olson > > *Sent:* Wednesday, May 2, 2018 9:12 PM > > *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > > *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My > > Remote Steel Hangar??? > > > > I set up a pair of these Ubiquiti Loco M5's for a hangar to hangar > > bridge of a few hundred feet at our airport this year. They are very > > easy to configure and work very well. > > As mentioned by Charlie, you would then still put a wireless access > > point in the hangar if you want wifi there (or you could hard wire a > > PC direct). > > They have a range of 10km, so you probably want to lower the power > > level for a short link, but, they should be very reliable and fast. > > You can also buy some versions of wireless AP that can act as a > > wireless client to your home wifi, and mount that on the hangar and > > run the cable to your PC in the hangar. > > There are just so many ways to skin the cat. It all depends on how > > much cash you put in, but in general the most you could spend would be > > a couple hundred bucks if you went real deluxe. > > > > Tim > > > > On 5/2/2018 10:25 PM, Charlie England wrote: > > > > There are probably much more qualified people here that can advise, > > but I've done similar stuff. > > > > I'd be doubtful of remoting one of the router's antennas, unless it > > specifically says you can. Most of the new stuff operates at roughl y > > 5 times the frequency of our transponders. Dozens of feet of coax a t > > those frequencies... not likely to work well. > > > > One way is to wire a 2nd router to your network, positioned where > > the hangar can 'see' it. Place what's known as an 'access point' at > > the hangar, where it can 'see' the router at the house. Wire the > > access point to an additional router in the hangar. The kicker to > > all this is configuring everything to talk to each other. I did it > > years ago, when a neighbor could get DSL but my house was just too > > far away from the DSLAM to work. I now have a bad DSL connection, > > and a decent LTE modem serving my home network, and I've forgotten > > most of the config details. > > > > A better option, Ubiquiti Nanostations, would look functionally > > similar, but would probably be easier to set up. I haven't used > > these, but they come highly recommended by guys on a Linux user > > group I monitor. > > > > https://www.google.com/search?q=Ubiquiti+nano+stations&oq=Ubiquiti+ nan > > o+stations&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i65.7250182j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie =UTF- > > 8 > > > > A bit over $100 for a pair, and you'll still need another router in > > the hangar. > > > > A third option, if the hangar AC power is fed from the house's mete r > > and panel, would be a power line networking pair. Note that both th e > > transmitter and receiver need to be on the same 'side' of the panel > > (same phase of your AC power). Look here for options. > > > > https://www.google.com/search?q=powerline+network+extender&oq=power +li > > ne+network&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l5.11494j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UT F-8 > > > > Charlie > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:09:37 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Current Limiter Questions From: "Eric Page" art(at)zemon.name wrote: > Also, B&C Aero shipped the current limiter holders with locknuts that have plastic inserts. Are those OK on the engine side of the firewall? I thought that I should only use all-metal locknuts on the engine side. See Thermal Properties, bottom half of this page... http://www.usfastener.com/insertlocknut.html Eric Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479893#479893 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:35:51 AM PST US From: GLEN MATEJCEK Subject: AeroElectric-List: Cable end crimping > When it came time to put terminals on my battery / welding cables, I went t o the local welding supply house. For ten bucks they would crimp whatever I b rought in. Or, for the same ten bucks, I could have my very own hammer drive n, bench mounted cable end crimper. Works fine, lasts long time. ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 01:02:59 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Crimping connectors on AWG 4 and 6 cable At 08:18 PM 5/5/2018, you wrote: >Art: > >There are TRICKS in soldering cables for such things as the Battery >& Alternator. >They are NOT difficult but the procedure is NOT just to solder and >get a total covered flow as you would when doing say a binding post >or a Western Union Splice. Yes there are . . . and here's my personal favorite . . . https://goo.gl/ty64fC Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 01:06:28 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: 24AWG airframe wire At 10:58 AM 5/6/2018, you wrote: >Agree. I had to provide support for the Ray Allen 24AWG wires at >the servo to insure there would be no flexing. >Do you know if there are any reported issues due to Allen's use of >the tiny wire? >Stan Sutterfield I have not heard of any . . . I 'cooked up' the cited article based on some conversations with builders on the List and re-enforced by the lack of interest by the MAC folks at OSH. If they're still shipping product with 24AWG flying leads, then I suspect feedback from the field has been nil. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 01:07:08 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Current Limiter Questions At 01:09 PM 5/6/2018, you wrote: > > >art(at)zemon.name wrote: > > Also, B&C Aero shipped the current limiter holders with locknuts > that have plastic inserts. Are those OK on the engine side of the > firewall? I thought that I should only use all-metal locknuts on > the engine side. The elastic nuts are fine off the engine. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:27:50 PM PST US From: Art Zemon Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Current Limiter Questions Bob, Do you have any opinion on whether the "bus bar" has sufficient current carrying capacity? I have a gut feeling that it is OK, since there is plenty of airflow around it but I lack the engineering/practical knowledge to make an objective determination. To save you looking for the original message, I used the brass bus bar supplied by B&C Aero as part of a backup alternator installation kit. The material is 0.025 x 0.5 x 2 inches. It needs to carry 19 amps typical load (32 amps with everything on). The maximum (all radios transmitting, both autopilot servos drawing full current, etc) is 49 amps. =8B -- Art Z.=8B -- https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel* ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:43:44 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Current Limiter Questions From: "user9253" The area of your bus bar is 0.025 x 0.5 = 0.0125 0.0125 equals 12,500 circular mills which is slightly bigger than 10 AWG. Your bus bar should be good for 30 to 40 amps depending on what wire table you look at. If my calculations and reasoning is correct, your bus bar should be OK. You can make your own bus bar out of flattened copper pipe or tube. I would clean the inside of the tube, then flatten and then solder the inside to keep out contaminants and prevent corrosion. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479904#479904 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:50:11 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Current Limiter Questions From: Charlie England On 5/6/2018 8:25 PM, Art Zemon wrote: > Bob, > > Do you have any opinion on whether the "bus bar" has sufficient > current carrying capacity? I have a gut feeling that it is OK, since > there is plenty of airflow around it but I lack the > engineering/practical knowledge to make an objective determination. > > To save you looking for the original message, I used the brass bus bar > supplied by B&C Aero as part of a backup alternator installation kit. > The material is 0.025 x 0.5 x 2 inches. It needs to carry 19 amps > typical load (32 amps with everything on). The maximum (all radios > transmitting, both autopilot servos drawing full current, etc) is 49 amps. > > -- Art Z. Art, 1st, determine what gauge wire you'd need for 50 amps. Easy to find it in the book, or the internet, But to save time, it's 8 awg. You can use the internet to find its cross sectional area (~0.0130 sq in). Then calculate the cross section if your strap (~0.0125 sq in). Probably would be fine, but it would be really easy to just add another layer of the brass strap. Or cheap out like me & flatten a section of copper tubing to make the strap. :-) Charlie --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:05:30 PM PST US From: Art Zemon Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Current Limiter Questions Joe, Thank you for that calculation. It sounds like thicker material would be better. I think that I will try flattening a piece of copper tube. Any excuse to play with a hydraulic press *and* solder in the same day is a good excuse =F0=9F=98=9C -- Art Z. On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 9:43 PM, user9253 wrote: > > The area of your bus bar is 0.025 x 0.5 = 0.0125 > 0.0125 equals 12,500 circular mills which is slightly bigger than 10 AWG. > Your bus bar should be good for 30 to 40 amps depending on what wire tabl e > you look at. If my calculations and reasoning is correct, your bus bar > should be OK. > You can make your own bus bar out of flattened copper pipe or tube. I > would clean the inside of the tube, then flatten and then solder the insi de > to keep out contaminants and prevent corrosion. > > -------- > Joe Gores -- https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" 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