Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:51 AM - Alternators & Regulators - what is the difference between Ford and Chrysler? (Peter Pengilly)
2. 05:35 AM - Re: Alternators & Regulators - what is the difference between Ford and Chrysler? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 08:46 AM - Paint question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 09:01 AM - Re: Paint question (Jared Yates)
5. 09:48 AM - Re: Paint question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 09:51 AM - Re: Paint question (Peter Pengilly)
7. 09:52 AM - Re: Alternators & Regulators - what is the difference between Ford and Chrysler? (Peter Pengilly)
8. 09:52 AM - Re: Paint question (Peter Pengilly)
9. 09:58 AM - Re: Paint question (Ken Ryan)
10. 10:07 AM - Re: Paint question (Jared Yates)
11. 10:34 AM - Re: Paint question (Charlie England)
12. 01:05 PM - NASA Workmanship Chart (Jim Heekin)
13. 03:04 PM - Z19 first try and smoke/wire melted I did a mistake (Achille)
14. 03:14 PM - Re: NASA Workmanship Chart (Art Zemon)
15. 03:19 PM - Re: Removing Pins from High Density D-Sub Connector (Art Zemon)
16. 04:12 PM - Re: Z19 first try and smoke/wire melted I did a mistake (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 04:14 PM - Re: Z19 first try and smoke/wire melted I did a mistake (C&K)
18. 06:56 PM - Re: Z19 first try and smoke/wire melted I did a mistake (Achille)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Alternators & Regulators - what is the difference between |
Ford and Chrysler?
Hi All,
I wonder if anyone can help me determine the suitability of a regulator
to
an alternator as I need to install a new regulator?
I have a Ford DOFF10300JR alternator on my RV-6 (15v/60A), the O-320-E2D
came from a C172 and the original builder retained the Cessna installed
alternator. I replaced the alternator 3 years ago. It has a generic 2
=BD=94
square regulator which has failed ' outputs only 0.05v when master is
on and
engine is not running.
I was going to install a B&C LR3C-14 regulator, but it will take a week
or
so (and $$) to ship across the Atlantic. I have now been offered a Lamar
B-00371-1 regulator (http://www.lamartech.com/files/50018505.pdf) by a
friend that will be here on Monday. I=92m trying to figure out if this
regulator will work with my alternator. Can anyone offer any advice?
I have a separate crowbar OV protection and a low volt monitor so do not
need these functions ' just the basic alternator control. I think the
main
differences between voltage regulators/alternator control units are
packaging [not an issue as I will have to drill new holes], connections
[not
an issue as I will have to carry some wiring changes] and additional
functions [OV protection, under volt warning, etc ' not required as
already
installed].
The B-00371-1 is listed as suitable for many Pipers (and many other
aircraft, but not Cessnas), the typical alternator it is used with is a
Chrysler ALY8520R.
I have been unable to find any information on the differences between
the
Ford and Chrysler alternators, and how their respective regulators might
differ, does anyone know?
Regards, Peter
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Alternators & Regulators - what is the difference |
between Ford and Chrysler?
>
>
>The B-00371-1 is listed as suitable for many Pipers (and many other
>aircraft, but not Cessnas), the typical alternator it is used with
>is a Chrysler ALY8520R.
That reguator will be fine. It's got built
in OV protection but leaving your existing
OV protection in place doesn't hurt anything.
>
>I have been unable to find any information on the differences
>between the Ford and Chrysler alternators, and how their respective
>regulators might differ, does anyone know?
Alternators, unlike generators, are exceedingly
tolerant of mixing/matching regulators with
various alternators.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Are there any Listers who can give me brands
and perhaps part numbers for non-metal airplane
paints understood to contain metallic fillers
of any kind?
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Paint question |
Do you mean like Polyfiber's Polyspray?
On June 16, 2018 11:52:26 "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> Are there any Listers who can give me brands
> and perhaps part numbers for non-metal airplane
> paints understood to contain metallic fillers
> of any kind?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Paint question |
At 11:00 AM 6/16/2018, you wrote:
>
>Do you mean like Polyfiber's Polyspray?
You tell me . . . finishes specific to airplanes
are not my field of expertise. I've read/heard
various assertions over the years concerning
the adverse effects of Paint X vs. Paint Y
on the performance of antennas mounting inside
the skin of a non-metal airplane. But I've
never had occasion to explore the facts and
physics of those assertions.
Just curious as to the most egregious of
supposed offenders . . .
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Bob,
Diamond aircraft specify an 'Anti-Static' primer to be applied to their
aircraft, however the outer layers of cloth also include an aluminium mesh
woven into the carbon.
One such primer is,
http://www.ppgaerospace.com/Products/Coatings-Removers-Cleaners/Commercial-C
ivil-Aviation/Specialty-Products/5421-2921-Anti-Static-Kit-TYPE-I.aspx
Not sure if this is has a metallic filler ... I can look on Monday what
paints are specified in the manual.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: 16 June 2018 16:46
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Paint question
--> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
Are there any Listers who can give me brands and perhaps part numbers for
non-metal airplane paints understood to contain metallic fillers of any
kind?
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Alternators & Regulators - what is the difference |
between Ford and Chrysler?
Thanks, Bob!
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: 16 June 2018 13:35
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Alternators & Regulators - what is the
difference between Ford and Chrysler?
The B-00371-1 is listed as suitable for many Pipers (and many other
aircraft, but not Cessnas), the typical alternator it is used with is a
Chrysler ALY8520R.
That reguator will be fine. It's got built
in OV protection but leaving your existing
OV protection in place doesn't hurt anything.
I have been unable to find any information on the differences between the
Ford and Chrysler alternators, and how their respective regulators might
differ, does anyone know?
Alternators, unlike generators, are exceedingly
tolerant of mixing/matching regulators with
various alternators.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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|
Bob,
Diamond aircraft specify an 'Anti-Static' primer to be applied to their
aircraft, however the outer layers of cloth also include an aluminium mesh
woven into the carbon.
One such primer is,
http://www.ppgaerospace.com/Products/Coatings-Removers-Cleaners/Commercial-C
ivil-Aviation/Specialty-Products/5421-2921-Anti-Static-Kit-TYPE-I.aspx
Not sure if this is has a metallic filler ... I can look on Monday what
paints are specified in the manual.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: 16 June 2018 16:46
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Paint question
--> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
Are there any Listers who can give me brands and perhaps part numbers for
non-metal airplane paints understood to contain metallic fillers of any
kind?
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Paint question |
I was told not to mount any antennas inside my silver Oratex SuperSTOL
because the silver pigment contains metal that would block signals. I can
send you some scraps if you would like to test it. Ken Ryan
Sent from my Android. Sorry Steve.
On Sat, Jun 16, 2018, 08:52 Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 11:00 AM 6/16/2018, you wrote:
>
> >
>
> Do you mean like Polyfiber's Polyspray?
>
>
> You tell me . . . finishes specific to airplanes
> are not my field of expertise. I've read/heard
> various assertions over the years concerning
> the adverse effects of Paint X vs. Paint Y
> on the performance of antennas mounting inside
> the skin of a non-metal airplane. But I've
> never had occasion to explore the facts and
> physics of those assertions.
>
> Just curious as to the most egregious of
> supposed offenders . . .
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Paint question |
The official description: A high-solids aluminum-pigmented, 1 part, air
drying resin used after the Poly-Brush preliminary coating to protect the
fabric from UV and prepare for a smooth finish
Polyspray has aluminum particles but I don't know about how it blocks or
does not block RF.
On June 16, 2018 12:54:44 "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 11:00 AM 6/16/2018, you wrote:
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message
>> posted by: Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.com>
>>
>> Do you mean like Polyfiber's Polyspray?
>
>
> You tell me . . . finishes specific to airplanes
> are not my field of expertise. I've read/heard
> various assertions over the years concerning
> the adverse effects of Paint X vs. Paint Y
> on the performance of antennas mounting inside
> the skin of a non-metal airplane. But I've
> never had occasion to explore the facts and
> physics of those assertions.
>
> Just curious as to the most egregious of
> supposed offenders . . .
>
> Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Paint question |
On 6/16/2018 11:47 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> At 11:00 AM 6/16/2018, you wrote:
>> <email@jaredyates.com>
>>
>> Do you mean like Polyfiber's Polyspray?
>
> You tell me . . . finishes specific to airplanes
> are not my field of expertise. I've read/heard
> various assertions over the years concerning
> the adverse effects of Paint X vs. Paint Y
> on the performance of antennas mounting inside
> the skin of a non-metal airplane. But I've
> never had occasion to explore the facts and
> physics of those assertions.
>
> Just curious as to the most egregious of
> supposed offenders . . .
>
> Bob . . .
>
I hate paint, and I'm certainly no expert. But I'd bet that the only
paints that contain enough metal to be an RF issue would be the 'silver'
step of fabric coatings, some of which (likely all the old stuff)
contain aluminum dust as a UV blocker, and paints specifically sold as
metallic and/or metalflake colors.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Message 12
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| Subject: | NASA Workmanship Chart |
This site was provided by a retired NASA engineer. I thought some of you might
find it to be of interest.
https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/frameset.html
Jim Heekin
Orlando, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480936#480936
Message 13
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| Subject: | Z19 first try and smoke/wire melted I did a mistake |
Good day,
After some months wiring my plane with Z19, long months, today was the day to set
the master switch in ON... [Wink]
And I did a mistake... THE mistake. (The Ridiculouse mistake !!!)
On the wire to connect to my battery, one have a red cap, the other for the moment
not cut. (only things that I have to do to finish completly) Weekend finishing
I would like to know after months if it works.... before the week.
I set a pair of jumper cable on the aircraft battery let on the ground i connected
it to the wire into the plane. (When I wire the battery cable, the red cap
was... the only one adaptable to my terminal...) It was the ground cable !!!
[Rolling Eyes]
So yes, I did the ridiculouse mistake. And after so much time to wire the plane
to have it perfectly i do this kind of ridiculouse mistake.
Then... I set master switch ON. and I see a light... it was not a light it was
a wire on the battery relay that it was on fire, melting completly his insulation.
my contactor :
http://www.bandc.aero/continuousdutycontactor.aspx
my master relay switch :
http://www.bandc.aero/toggleswitch-doublepole.aspx
After that I investiguate quickly, and I find that I set the polarity on the wrong
way. I set it in the good one.
Same result ! Wire coming red without no more insulation.
My first question is :
- my IFF/Radio/electronics ignitions and all the electronics parts are good to
the bin ? (I have a Trig S mode... new electronics Ignitions) wire like the Z19
with a diode and without avionics switch like the Z19.
- Why I have in the bad polarity, but also in the good this wire that is comming
hot and red ?
- I spoke about the electronics instruments, but the others wires could be damage
as the wire spoke above ?
If you have some advise for the next step for me... I will appreciate [Rolling
Eyes]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480937#480937
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/capture_decran_2018_06_17_a_000034_117.png
http://forums.matronics.com//files/capture_decran_2018_06_17_a_000019_153.png
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: NASA Workmanship Chart |
Thanks, Jim. That's very concise and helpful.
-- Art Z.
On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 3:26 PM Jim Heekin <heekin@knights.ucf.edu> wrote:
> heekin@knights.ucf.edu>
>
> This site was provided by a retired NASA engineer. I thought some of you
> might find it to be of interest.
>
> https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/frameset.html
> =8B=8B
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"We do not see the world as it is. We see the world as we are."*
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Pins from High Density D-Sub Connector |
Thanks for the empathy, everybody. It's too hot to take another crack at it
right now... wunderground says that it feels like 107 out there.... I'll
attack the pins again in the morning. Maybe if I swing a chicken over the
connector....
-- Art Z.
On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 11:11 AM Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Yeah, it kinda comes down to 'holding your mouth right'. :-)
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"We do not see the world as it is. We see the world as we are."*
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Z19 first try and smoke/wire melted I did a mistake |
>
>After that I investiguate quickly, and I find that I set the
>polarity on the wrong way. I set it in the good one.
>
>Same result ! Wire coming red without no more insulation.
>
>My first question is :
>
>- my IFF/Radio/electronics ignitions and all the electronics parts
>are good to the bin ? (I have a Trig S mode... new electronics
>Ignitions) wire like the Z19 with a diode and without avionics
>switch like the Z19.
>
>- Why I have in the bad polarity, but also in the good this wire
>that is comming hot and red ?
>
>- I spoke about the electronics instruments, but the others wires
>could be damage as the wire spoke above ?
>
>If you have some advise for the next step for me... I will
>appreciate [Rolling Eyes]
The first event probably shorted the diode across
the coil since it was in a FORWARD conduction mode.
Correcting the battery connection produced a similar
event because the diode was shorted.
Now, the good news. Since the diode fused and became
a 'wire burner', the contactor did not close. Similarly,
even with the proper battery connection, the shorted diode
kept the contactor from closing once again and only
the wiring was abused.
Replace the diode and any smoked wires. I'm hopeful that
the rest of your electrowhizzies are okay.
Bob . . .
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Z19 first try and smoke/wire melted I did a mistake |
It might not be as bad as you think.
If a visual inspection doesn't find a problem, I would pull all the
fuses and look for what is shorted with a ohmeter or a low current
source such as a small light bulb in series with the battery.
Ken
On 16/06/2018 6:03 PM, Achille wrote:
>
> Good day,
>
> After some months wiring my plane with Z19, long months, today was the day to
set the master switch in ON... [Wink]
>
> And I did a mistake... THE mistake. (The Ridiculouse mistake !!!)
>
> On the wire to connect to my battery, one have a red cap, the other for the moment
not cut. (only things that I have to do to finish completly) Weekend finishing
I would like to know after months if it works.... before the week.
>
> I set a pair of jumper cable on the aircraft battery let on the ground i connected
it to the wire into the plane. (When I wire the battery cable, the red cap
was... the only one adaptable to my terminal...) It was the ground cable !!!
[Rolling Eyes]
>
> So yes, I did the ridiculouse mistake. And after so much time to wire the plane
to have it perfectly i do this kind of ridiculouse mistake.
>
> Then... I set master switch ON. and I see a light... it was not a light it was
a wire on the battery relay that it was on fire, melting completly his insulation.
>
>
> my contactor :
>
> http://www.bandc.aero/continuousdutycontactor.aspx
>
> my master relay switch :
>
> http://www.bandc.aero/toggleswitch-doublepole.aspx
>
> After that I investiguate quickly, and I find that I set the polarity on the
wrong way. I set it in the good one.
>
> Same result ! Wire coming red without no more insulation.
>
> My first question is :
>
> - my IFF/Radio/electronics ignitions and all the electronics parts are good to
the bin ? (I have a Trig S mode... new electronics Ignitions) wire like the
Z19 with a diode and without avionics switch like the Z19.
>
> - Why I have in the bad polarity, but also in the good this wire that is comming
hot and red ?
>
> - I spoke about the electronics instruments, but the others wires could be damage
as the wire spoke above ?
>
> If you have some advise for the next step for me... I will appreciate [Rolling
Eyes]
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480937#480937
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/capture_decran_2018_06_17_a_000034_117.png
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/capture_decran_2018_06_17_a_000019_153.png
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Z19 first try and smoke/wire melted I did a mistake |
Thank you bob for you reply. I hope to find just the diode end the wire U/S. Many
thanks.
I have to check just the intgrity of contactor ground wire (master switch to the
ground bus) easily accessible or I could have other wire damaged ?
Because all my wires are set in harness with sleeve.
About the possible damage, with luck just this wire and diode. But without
Alternator diode couldn't be damage at least ? and my ignitions and transpondeur
? (I checked on the user manuel they told that inversion of polarity damage
it) But in the case of switch was in OFF on the transpondeur (for exemple) it
can damage it ? (I ask the question because I was doing a quote of my error to
be prepared in the event of I have to change part.. and total price become quickly
crazy)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480944#480944
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