Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:48 AM - Thermocouple Wire Connections (Sebastien)
2. 08:05 AM - Re: Thermocouple Wire Connections (FLYaDIVE)
3. 08:16 AM - Re: Thermocouple Wire Connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 01:13 PM - Re: Thermocouple Wire Connections (Werner Schneider)
5. 03:13 PM - Re: Thermocouple Wire Connections (A R Goldman)
6. 05:39 PM - Re: Thermocouple Wire Connections (Robert Borger)
7. 05:44 PM - Re: Thermocouple Wire Connections (FLYaDIVE)
8. 06:52 PM - 240 VAC Motor Question ()
9. 07:31 PM - Re: 240 VAC Motor Question (FLYaDIVE)
10. 07:35 PM - Re: 240 VAC Motor Question (user9253)
11. 09:56 PM - Re: Rotax Charging System (jrevens)
12. 11:05 PM - Re: Re: Rotax Charging System (FLYaDIVE)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Thermocouple Wire Connections |
I am wiring some of these CHT probes to a Dynon Skyview
I'm hoping to connect them with these
https://buy-ei.com/portfolio/olc-1/
as recommended by Dynon but as you can see the probes come with bullet
connectors. I don't have any female connectors for the bullets. Will it
mess up the readings to cut the bullet connectors off, strip the wire, and
connect them to the Dynon harness using the OLC-1s?
Thank you,
Sebastien
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Wire Connections |
Sebastien:
Not at all! You just have to figure out the polarity. Voltage output
should be something like 23 microvolts per Deg F.
BUT! Why do you want to use an Under The Spark Plug sensor? In general:
1 - They read High.
2 - They are very slow in reacting.
3 - They break easy.
Your choice of wire connector is a good one. I have done dozens & dozens
of connections using that connector. WAY easier to use them than the nut &
bolt system from JPI.
Barry
On Thu, Sep 13, 2018 at 10:54 AM Sebastien <cluros@gmail.com> wrote:
> I am wiring some of these CHT probes to a Dynon Skyview
>
>
> I'm hoping to connect them with these
>
> https://buy-ei.com/portfolio/olc-1/
>
> as recommended by Dynon but as you can see the probes come with bullet
> connectors. I don't have any female connectors for the bullets. Will it
> mess up the readings to cut the bullet connectors off, strip the wire, and
> connect them to the Dynon harness using the OLC-1s?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Sebastien
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Wire Connections |
At 09:46 AM 9/13/2018, you wrote:
>I am wiring some of these CHT probes to a Dynon Skyview
>
>[]
>
>I'm hoping to connect them with these
>
><https://buy-ei.com/portfolio/olc-1/>https://buy-ei.com/portfolio/olc-1/
>
>as recommended by Dynon but as you can see the probes come with
>bullet connectors. I don't have any female connectors for the
>bullets. Will it mess up the readings to cut the bullet connectors
>off, strip the wire, and connect them to the Dynon harness using the OLC-1s?
Looks good. The cool thing about modern thermocouple
sensor/indicator systems is the very low currents
flowing in the thermocouple 'loop'. Back when
thermocouples were used to POWER an instrument
on the panel, the voltages were small but the
currents significant . . . loop resistance had
to be kept LOW and FIXED. Thermocouple wiring
was rather fat. Long runs to measure CHT, EGT
or oil TEMP on the outboard engines of something
like the B29 might have been 18 or even 16AWG.
This was because thermocouples like Type K . . .
Emacs!
Generated only 7.7 MILLIVOLTS off reference
at 190 degrees-C. Your error budget for voltage
drop in wiring was exceedingly small!
Nowadays, the panel mounted instruments are capable
of resolving the 400 or so microvolt difference
between 180 and 190C with a very high input impedance
to the instrument. No need to maintain
very low resistance pathways in the thermocouple
loops You only need to manage parasitic
couples.
The OLC-1 brings like-metals in the T/C loop direcly
in contact with each other . . . no parasitic couples.
So while the OLC-1 splices would be frowned upon
to join wires in a power feeder with significant
current, potential for upsetting the accuracy
in a modern thermocouple instrumentation loop is nil.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Wire Connections |
Barry, this is probably a Rotax engine, as far as I know they have only
this kind of CHT probes, no boss mounted like on a Lycoming.
Cheers Werner
On 13.09.2018 16:59, FLYaDIVE wrote:
> Sebastien:
>
> BUT! Why do you want to use an Under The Spark Plug sensor? In general:
> 1 - They read High.
> 2 - They are very slow in reacting.
> 3 - They break easy.
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Wire Connections |
Sebastien,
Those connectors should work however you may need to cut off the existing co
nnectors on the wires to get a good connection
Rich
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 13, 2018, at 9:59 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Sebastien:
>
> Not at all! You just have to figure out the polarity. Voltage output sho
uld be something like 23 microvolts per Deg F.
> BUT! Why do you want to use an Under The Spark Plug sensor? In general:
> 1 - They read High.
> 2 - They are very slow in reacting.
> 3 - They break easy.
>
> Your choice of wire connector is a good one. I have done dozens & dozens o
f connections using that connector. WAY easier to use them than the nut & b
olt system from JPI.
>
> Barry
>
>> On Thu, Sep 13, 2018 at 10:54 AM Sebastien <cluros@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I am wiring some of these CHT probes to a Dynon Skyview
>>
>>
>> I'm hoping to connect them with these
>>
>> https://buy-ei.com/portfolio/olc-1/
>>
>> as recommended by Dynon but as you can see the probes come with bullet co
nnectors. I don't have any female connectors for the bullets. Will it mess u
p the readings to cut the bullet connectors off, strip the wire, and connect
them to the Dynon harness using the OLC-1s?
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Sebastien
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Wire Connections |
Werner,
My Rotax 914 has Rotax provided boss mounted thermal sensors on
cylinders 1 and 4. My GRT EIS 4000 can read their input quite well. I
put small ring thermal sensors provided by GRT onto the cylinder head of
cylinders 2 and 3 by screwing them onto bosses provided. They seem to
read well enough as all 4 are very close in temperature readout.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (130 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP, Hercules
Prop.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com <mailto:rlborger@mac.com>
On Sep 13, 2018, at 3:13 PM, Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net> wrote:
<glastar@gmx.net>
Barry, this is probably a Rotax engine, as far as I know they have only
this kind of CHT probes, no boss mounted like on a Lycoming.
Cheers Werner
On 13.09.2018 16:59, FLYaDIVE wrote:
> Sebastien:
> BUT! Why do you want to use an Under The Spark Plug sensor? In
general:
> 1 - They read High.
> 2 - They are very slow in reacting.
> 3 - They break easy.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Wire Connections |
Werner:
Well, that explains it!
Question: Aren't Rotax engines water cooled? <-- The 4 cycle ones?
So, if they are water cooled would you use just ONE CHT Probe?
I do not work on Rotax so, I'm theorizing.
Thanks Werner,
Barry
On Thu, Sep 13, 2018 at 4:18 PM Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net> wrote:
> >
>
> Barry, this is probably a Rotax engine, as far as I know they have only
> this kind of CHT probes, no boss mounted like on a Lycoming.
>
> Cheers Werner
>
> On 13.09.2018 16:59, FLYaDIVE wrote:
> > Sebastien:
> >
>
> > BUT! Why do you want to use an Under The Spark Plug sensor? In general:
> > 1 - They read High.
> > 2 - They are very slow in reacting.
> > 3 - They break easy.
> >
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | 240 VAC Motor Question |
Greetings,
This is a (slightly) off topic but I am reaching out to the smartest guys I
know regarding this stuff.
I am FINALLY getting around to wiring up the switch you all helped me find a
couple of months ago on my 2 post car lift (it is in an airplane hangar so
it is legal to post on this forum).
The car lift has an electric motor that drives a hydraulic pump. The
Normally Open switch when pushed starts the motor and the hydraulic pump
moves the car up. To lower the car there is a hydraulic pressure relief
valve meaning the motor/pump only operates one direction.
The black and white wires from my 2 pole circuit breaker panel and the green
bond wire are easy for me to figure out.
Inside the wiring box of the lift is a bit more complicated. Attached is a
picture of the schematic label on the side of the wiring box and a picture
of the relay unit housed inside the box.
Inside the wiring box there are the following wires:
-Green + yellow stripe wire that has a ground lug on the motor case and a
the other end is a loose end.
-Green wire that has a lug on one end and the other end enters the internals
of the relay box
-Blue wire that is loose on one end and the other end enters the internals
of the relay box.
-Brown wire that goes to the 5/L3 lug of the relay unit and the other end is
a loose end.
-Brown wire that has a lug on one end and the other end is a loose end
Can someone please help me "remember" what wires go to what on this
contraption???
I would GREATLY APPRECIATE your help on this!!!
.
Thanks,
Bill Hunter
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 240 VAC Motor Question |
Bill:
It is a lot easier with the units in front of me, but...
Here is a link that supports the colors you mention.
Oh, there are two standards in wiring motors:
1 - Wire Color Code - Which is not used very much and
2 - Wire Numbering - Much easier to understand.
This link shows the color code you are seeing:
https://www.doityourself.com/forum/electrical-ac-dc/396012-bodine-electric-
motor-wiring.html
For a 220 AC Line:
T1 goes to L1
T4 & T5 go to L2
ALL the other wires get tied together and wire nutted and electrical tape
wrapped.
I need better pictures or schematic of the relay.
But, Since as you say the Motor is ONLY powered and in one direction the
relay is used to control that applied power as stated above.
Just tie the lines together through the relay so :
1 - A switch energizes the relay.
2 - L1 and L2 Go to each 110 V lines (110 + 110 = 220)
Hope this helps.
Barry
On Thu, Sep 13, 2018 at 9:58 PM <billhuntersemail@gmail.com> wrote:
> Greetings,
>
>
> This is a (slightly) off topic but I am reaching out to the smartest guys
> I know regarding this stuff
>
>
> I am FINALLY getting around to wiring up the switch you all helped me fin
d
> a couple of months ago on my 2 post car lift (it is in an airplane hangar
> so it is legal to post on this forum).
>
>
> The car lift has an electric motor that drives a hydraulic pump. The
> Normally Open switch when pushed starts the motor and the hydraulic pump
> moves the car up. To lower the car there is a hydraulic pressure relief
> valve meaning the motor/pump only operates one direction.
>
>
> The black and white wires from my 2 pole circuit breaker panel and the
> green bond wire are easy for me to figure out.
>
>
> Inside the wiring box of the lift is a bit more complicated. Attached is
> a picture of the schematic label on the side of the wiring box and a
> picture of the relay unit housed inside the box.
>
>
> Inside the wiring box there are the following wires:
>
> -Green + yellow stripe wire that has a ground lug on the motor case and a
> the other end is a loose end.
>
> -Green wire that has a lug on one end and the other end enters the
> internals of the relay box
>
> -Blue wire that is loose on one end and the other end enters the internal
s
> of the relay box.
>
> -Brown wire that goes to the 5/L3 lug of the relay unit and the other end
> is a loose end.
>
> -Brown wire that has a lug on one end and the other end is a loose end
>
>
> Can someone please help me =9Cremember=9D what wires go to wh
at on this
> contraption???
>
>
> I would GREATLY APPRECIATE your help on this!!!
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bill Hunter
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 240 VAC Motor Question |
Bill,
There are no pictures attached to your post.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483169#483169
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Charging System |
I don't believe I've ever seen a definitive answer to the question of what the
exact purpose of the 22,000 mfd capacitor is in the 912 charging circuit. Can
anyone answer that question? I apologize if the answer is buried somewhere in
the archives of this forum, and I just haven't searched far enough to find it.
--------
John Evens
Thorp T-18 N71JE (built & flying)
Kitfox SS7 N27JE (building)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483172#483172
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Charging System |
John,
Filtering.
Barry
On Friday, September 14, 2018, jrevens <jrevens@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I don't believe I've ever seen a definitive answer to the question of what
> the exact purpose of the 22,000 mfd capacitor is in the 912 charging
> circuit. Can anyone answer that question? I apologize if the answer is
> buried somewhere in the archives of this forum, and I just haven't searched
> far enough to find it.
>
> --------
> John Evens
> Thorp T-18 N71JE (built & flying)
> Kitfox SS7 N27JE (building)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483172#483172
>
>
--
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
If you wash your hands before you go to the bathroom you may have the
makings of a Crew Chief.
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