Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:17 PM - Re: Alternator/shunt question (woxofswa)
2. 06:08 PM - Re: Re: Alternator/shunt question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 07:32 PM - Re: LED Noise Filter (FLYaDIVE)
4. 09:20 PM - Re: LED Noise Filter (The Kuffels)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Alternator/shunt question |
Score one for team Sparky. I was able to get my system running correctly by dialing
up the internal voltage adjustment screw on the external regulator by 5 -
1/2 turns (2.5 complete turns).
On a test flight today at 2400 RPM, I had two SkyView Screens and full associated
systems, Dynon com, xponder, ADS-B, audio panel, G430W, all exterior lights,
and
even the A/C blower on medium, and the standby Alt kept the bus voltage above 13
and after about 2 mins of minus 2, then minus 1, the ammeter held zero battery
consumption. Turning the standby ALT off, the ammeter showed minus 27, and
back on, it went to positive 2 for about 5 minutes before going back to zero
with the bus voltage at 13.4, carrying the ships load and still charging the battery!
Thanks for the help!
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483426#483426
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Alternator/shunt question |
At 06:16 PM 9/28/2018, you wrote:
>
>Score one for team Sparky. I was able to get my
>system running correctly by dialing up the
>internal voltage adjustment screw on the
>external regulator by 5 - 1/2 turns (2.5 complete turns).
>
>On a test flight today at 2400 RPM, I had two
>SkyView Screens and full associated systems,
>Dynon com, xponder, ADS-B, audio panel, G430W, all exterior lights, and
>even the A/C blower on medium, and the standby
>Alt kept the bus voltage above 13 and after
>about 2 mins of minus 2, then minus 1, the
>ammeter held zero battery consumption. Turning
>the standby ALT off, the ammeter showed minus
>27, and back on, it went to positive 2 for about
>5 minutes before going back to zero with the bus
>voltage at 13.4, carrying the ship=99s load and still charging the
battery!
Good data but with one caveate . . . 13.4 will not CHARGE
a battery. It will sustain the current level of charge
but it does not add to that level.
The rationale for picking such a setting was predicated
on the fact that the standby alternator was incapable
of carrying normal system running loads . . . however,
a judicious load analysis would let the operator
select a suite of hardware that would facilitate
comfortable en route flight operations.
The depressed set point deliberately prevents
taxing the limited alternator output with
battery charging thus maximizing energy for
the operation of electro-whizzies.
When the airport is in sight, additional
loads useful for decent and approach to
landing can be energized using what ever
energy is available from the battery.
Bottom line is that if your bus is 14.2 to 14.6
with the main alternator and 13.4 to 13.6 on
the aux alternator, then BOTH alternators are
supporting present loads at voltages established
by design goals.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: LED Noise Filter |
Tom:
It is correct the way it is.
The 1000 uF Cap is a brute force filter. It filters the DC of the
battery. The 1 uF and they may even be too big (I'm thinking .01 uF) are
to filter the noise to ground from the component that is creating the
noise... The LED Light.
BTW, the 1 Hz noise... You will NOT hear it. Way below human ear range.
Barry
On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 1:23 PM The Kuffels <kuffel@cyberport.net> wrote:
> Sebastien,
>
> << The only circuit diagram I found online was
>
> http://www.ptcaviation.com/wordpress/pi-filter/
>
> Should I go with a simple 1 inductor 1 capacitor filter for each light or
> the more complicated version diagrammed above >>
>
> The extra cost of the pi filter is so small I would just use them without
> even trying a test of the simpler circuit.
>
> One really small correction on the above diagram. C1 and C2 are to filter
> high frequency noise while C3 is for lower frequencies. The leads from the
> LED to the first high frequency capacitor should be as short as possible.
> Therefore, the positions of C2 and C3 on the diagram should be swapped.
>
> Tom Kuffel
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon> Virus-free.
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Message 4
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Subject: | Re: LED Noise Filter |
Barry,
<< It is correct the way it is. >>
My "small" change does not change the schematic. In both cases C2 & C3 are
parallel and on the LED side of the inductor. From a noise suppression vi
ewpoint believe people should be aware that shorter leads are best for high
frequencies. In a severe case I would consider soldering the high frequen
cy capacitor at the LED leads.
<< The 1 uF and they may even be too big (I'm thinking .01 uF) are to filt
er the noise to ground from the component that is creating the noise... >>
Believe that is what I said. Agree the 1 uF value seems too high. Persona
lly would use no more than 0.1 uF and thought 0.01 uF would be the place to
start. But for all I know, the circuit designer experimented and found th
is type of 1 uF capacitor to work best with this LED. So I limited my comm
ent to the teaching point that the length of leads carrying high frequency
noise should be as short as reasonable.
Tom
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