Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:47 AM - Re: Re: operating a relay with a cell phone (Ken)
2. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: operating a relay with a cell phone (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: operating a relay with a cell phone (Ken Ryan)
4. 08:22 AM - Re: Re: operating a relay with a cell phone (Ken Ryan)
5. 10:45 AM - Re: Re: operating a relay with a cell phone (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 11:01 AM - Re: Re: operating a relay with a cell phone (Charlie England)
7. 11:59 AM - Re: Re: operating a relay with a cell phone (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 12:11 PM - Re: Re: operating a relay with a cell phone (Ken Ryan)
9. 12:12 PM - Re: Re: operating a relay with a cell phone (Art Zemon)
10. 08:23 PM - Re: Re: operating a relay with a cell phone (Rick Beebe)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: operating a relay with a cell phone |
Well it would work.
But would not be legal or particularly fire safe as it certainly isn't
rated for 120 volts. Definitely the kind of thing that an insurance
investigator likes to find. Of course turning on any kind of heating
device when no one is around entails some risk anyway...
Ken
On 2018-12-04 11:16 p.m., Ken Ryan wrote:
> Okay, so an automotive relay like we would use on our airplanes would be
> okay for this application, too. I have a few lying around.
>
> On Tue, Dec 4, 2018 at 6:52 PM user9253 <fransew@gmail.com
> <mailto:fransew@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> <fransew@gmail.com <mailto:fransew@gmail.com>>
>
> You can buy a 30 amp relay at an auto parts store.
> Ignore the B beside the battery.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486135#486135
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/tanis_heater__116.jpg
>
>
>
> ==========
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: operating a relay with a cell phone |
At 06:46 AM 12/5/2018, you wrote:
>
>Well it would work.
>But would not be legal or particularly fire safe as it certainly
>isn't rated for 120 volts. Definitely the kind of thing that an
>insurance investigator likes to find. Of course turning on any kind
>of heating device when no one is around entails some risk anyway...
>Ken
The S704 style plastic relays are quite
suited to this task. According to the
users manual, output from the device
is a set of form-c dry contacts rated
at 3A so a 'buffer relay' is called for.
Consider a solid state device like this
https://tinyurl.com/y9qh9wq4
You can use the n.o./common contacts
of the receiver to control power to
the SSR input. You can 'steal' power
from the same supply that operates the
receiver.
There are no regulatory issues (aside
from local fire marshals) for this
project. If it's not bolted to the airframe,
it's of no interest to the feds.
I'd mount the receiver and solid state relay
on the wall of the hangar and provide an
outlet to an extension cord that powers
the Tanis heater in its normal operating
configuration. Risks (beyond failure to
function) are zero.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: operating a relay with a cell phone |
Okay, when I started this I thought, like Barry, that a second relay would
be required. But thanks to Joe I now understand that the RTU5024 is well
rated (3A/240AC) to handle the power required by the Tanis (2A/115AC) and
so I will wire it up as he suggested, directly untilizing the relay in the
RTU5024. Makes the whole thing much simpler. Thanks Joe.
On Tue, Dec 4, 2018 at 5:04 PM user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Here is a schematic diagram.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486130#486130
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/tanis_heater_173.jpg
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: operating a relay with a cell phone |
Okay change of plan, thanks much Bob.
Ken
On Wed, Dec 5, 2018, 06:58 Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com wrote:
> At 06:46 AM 12/5/2018, you wrote:
>
>
> Well it would work.
> But would not be legal or particularly fire safe as it certainly isn't
> rated for 120 volts. Definitely the kind of thing that an insurance
> investigator likes to find. Of course turning on any kind of heating device
> when no one is around entails some risk anyway...
> Ken
>
>
> The S704 style plastic relays are quite
> suited to this task. According to the
> users manual, output from the device
> is a set of form-c dry contacts rated
> at 3A so a 'buffer relay' is called for.
>
> Consider a solid state device like this
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y9qh9wq4
>
> You can use the n.o./common contacts
> of the receiver to control power to
> the SSR input. You can 'steal' power
> from the same supply that operates the
> receiver.
>
> There are no regulatory issues (aside
> from local fire marshals) for this
> project. If it's not bolted to the airframe,
> it's of no interest to the feds.
>
> I'd mount the receiver and solid state relay
> on the wall of the hangar and provide an
> outlet to an extension cord that powers
> the Tanis heater in its normal operating
> configuration. Risks (beyond failure to
> function) are zero.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: operating a relay with a cell phone |
At 09:52 AM 12/5/2018, you wrote:
>Okay, when I started this I thought, like Barry, that a second relay
>would be required. But thanks to Joe I now understand that the
>RTU5024 is well rated (3A/240AC) to handle the power required by the
>Tanis (2A/115AC) and so I will wire it up as he suggested, directly
>untilizing the relay in the RTU5024. Makes the whole thing much
>simpler. Thanks Joe.
Opps . . . the Tanis only take 2A? Hmmm . . .
one COULD use the receiver's built in
relay although I'd still tend toward adding
the buffer relay with the following caveats:
Current through the receiver's relay contacts
is VERY low when driving an SSR . . . after some
period of time in service, corrosion build on
the receiver relay contacts MIGHT cause the
n.o. contacts to go 'open'. Not likely but
still something to throw in the trouble-shooting
bucket if the critter quits.
If you elect to use the built in relay, then
contact 'cleaning' will not be an issue. I
think I'd add a 5A fuse in series with 120vac
power to the Tanis . . . if for whatever reason,
current in that loop is faulted, it would
be cool if the event didn't smoke the internal
relay (probably not easy to replace).
Hmmmm . . . only 250 watts to heat the engine?
My propane 'dragons' on K1K1 certainly put out
a lot more heat but they had to play catchup
in minutes. 250W continuously applied over-night
may well be enough. Learned something new today.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: operating a relay with a cell phone |
On 12/5/2018 12:45 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> At 09:52 AM 12/5/2018, you wrote:
>> Okay, when I started this I thought, like Barry, that a second relay
>> would be required. But thanks to Joe I now understand that the
>> RTU5024 is well rated (3A/240AC) to handle the power required by the
>> Tanis (2A/115AC) and so I will wire it up as he suggested, directly
>> untilizing the relay in the RTU5024. Makes the whole thing much
>> simpler. Thanks Joe.
>
> Opps . . . the Tanis only take 2A? Hmmm . . .
> one COULD use the receiver's built in
> relay although I'd still tend toward adding
> the buffer relay with the following caveats:
>
> Current through the receiver's relay contacts
> is VERY low when driving an SSR . . . after some
> period of time in service, corrosion build on
> the receiver relay contacts MIGHT cause the
> n.o. contacts to go 'open'. Not likely but
> still something to throw in the trouble-shooting
> bucket if the critter quits.
>
> If you elect to use the built in relay, then
> contact 'cleaning' will not be an issue. I
> think I'd add a 5A fuse in series with 120vac
> power to the Tanis . . . if for whatever reason,
> current in that loop is faulted, it would
> be cool if the event didn't smoke the internal
> relay (probably not easy to replace).
>
> Hmmmm . . . only 250 watts to heat the engine?
> My propane 'dragons' on K1K1 certainly put out
> a lot more heat but they had to play catchup
> in minutes. 250W continuously applied over-night
> may well be enough. Learned something new today.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Probably using something like this:
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/ez-440a.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAi57gBRDqARIsABhDSMrkaMXwANnl_DM_XXVmvLX8YXFhCmJF86d9J7_YQdXyxxqLc23o_IwaAhVKEALw_wcB
bonded directly to the oil pan.
---
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Message 7
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Subject: | Re: operating a relay with a cell phone |
>> . .
>Probably using something like this:
><http://www.chiefaircraft.com/ez-440a.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAi57gBRDqARIsABhDSMrkaMXwANnl_DM_XXVmvLX8YXFhCmJF86d9J7_YQdXyxxqLc23o_IwaAhVKEALw_wcB>http://www.chiefaircraft.com/ez-440a.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAi57gBRDqARIsABhDSMrkaMXwANnl_DM_XXVmvLX8YXFhCmJF86d9J7_YQdXyxxqLc23o_IwaAhVKEALw_wcB
>bonded directly to the oil pan.
cool! Thanks!
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: operating a relay with a cell phone |
Bob, the Tanis is well documented to work extremely well. There are five
bolts that replace engine bolts (one for each cylinder, and one in the
engine case) that act as resistance heaters and there is also a pad to heat
the oil in the Rotax external oil tank, so the heat goes directly into the
engine. Here is a link to a short 11:19 video showing careful testing under
controlled conditions:
https://rotax-owner.com/en/videos-topmenu/product-reviews/149-tanis
Ken
On Wed, Dec 5, 2018 at 9:51 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 09:52 AM 12/5/2018, you wrote:
>
> Okay, when I started this I thought, like Barry, that a second relay would
> be required. But thanks to Joe I now understand that the RTU5024 is well
> rated (3A/240AC) to handle the power required by the Tanis (2A/115AC) and
> so I will wire it up as he suggested, directly untilizing the relay in the
> RTU5024. Makes the whole thing much simpler. Thanks Joe.
>
>
> Opps . . . the Tanis only take 2A? Hmmm . . .
> one COULD use the receiver's built in
> relay although I'd still tend toward adding
> the buffer relay with the following caveats:
>
> Current through the receiver's relay contacts
> is VERY low when driving an SSR . . . after some
> period of time in service, corrosion build on
> the receiver relay contacts MIGHT cause the
> n.o. contacts to go 'open'. Not likely but
> still something to throw in the trouble-shooting
> bucket if the critter quits.
>
> If you elect to use the built in relay, then
> contact 'cleaning' will not be an issue. I
> think I'd add a 5A fuse in series with 120vac
> power to the Tanis . . . if for whatever reason,
> current in that loop is faulted, it would
> be cool if the event didn't smoke the internal
> relay (probably not easy to replace).
>
> Hmmmm . . . only 250 watts to heat the engine?
> My propane 'dragons' on K1K1 certainly put out
> a lot more heat but they had to play catchup
> in minutes. 250W continuously applied over-night
> may well be enough. Learned something new today.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: operating a relay with a cell phone |
Bob,
I don't know about Tanis. I have a Reiff with a 50W band around each
cylinder and a 100W pad on the oil sump.
-- Art Z.
On Wed, Dec 5, 2018 at 1:04 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> Hmmmm . . . only 250 watts to heat the engine?
> My propane 'dragons' on K1K1 certainly put out
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"Be kind, for everyone you meet is fighting a hard battle."*
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: operating a relay with a cell phone |
I have the Reiff turbo system with 100W cylinder bands, TWO 100w pads on
the sump and a 100W pad on the oil cooler. It's 700W. Last week I left
it plugged in over night (28 degree low) and when I went flying in the
morning the oil was at 121 degrees. If I plug it in before flight at
that temp it's at least an hour before I'm comfortable with the engine
temperature. The dragon can more or less do it in a quarter of that time.
--Rick
On 12/5/2018 3:11 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
> Bob,
>
> I don't know about Tanis. I have a Reiff with a 50W band around each
> cylinder and a 100W pad on the oil sump.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> On Wed, Dec 5, 2018 at 1:04 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com <mailto:nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>>
> wrote:
>
> Hmmmm . . . only 250 watts to heat the engine?
> My propane 'dragons' on K1K1 certainly put out
>
>
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