Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:09 AM - Re: Transponder Antenna (Tundra10)
2. 04:43 AM - Re: Re: Transponder Antenna (GTH)
3. 05:44 AM - Re: Re: Transponder Antenna (Kelly McMullen)
4. 09:50 AM - When / where to use dielectric grease? (blues750)
5. 10:34 AM - Re: When / where to use dielectric grease? (GTH)
6. 10:51 AM - Re: Re: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls (DANIEL PELLETIER)
7. 11:11 AM - Re: Re: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls (DANIEL PELLETIER)
8. 12:55 PM - Re: When / where to use dielectric grease? (blues750)
9. 01:56 PM - Re: Fuse-able link (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 05:27 PM - Re: Re: When / where to use dielectric grease? (Dick Tasker)
11. 05:46 PM - Re: When / where to use dielectric grease? (user9253)
12. 06:42 PM - Re: Re: When / where to use dielectric grease? (FLYaDIVE)
13. 11:01 PM - Official AeroElectric-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) (Matt Dralle)
14. 11:26 PM - Official AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines (Matt Dralle)
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Subject: | Re: Transponder Antenna |
This is a Cessna 172, so the aluminum skin is ground.
During the measurement I made, the cable was not connected to the transponder,
but was connected to the antenna.
I measured from the shield of the connector at the transponder end, and the frame
of the airplane.
Unless this is an unusual antenna, I expect this to be a zero ohm reading.
If the blade transponder antennas are standard, then either the cable is bad, or
the antenna is poorly mounted, and I will have to pull up the carpet and inspection
panels to look at it.
I didn't want to do that, only to find out the transponder antenna design is unusual.
Thanks !
Jeff Page
Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486632#486632
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Subject: | Re: Transponder Antenna |
/Le 01/01/2019 09:08, Tundra10 a crit://
/
> /I measured from the shield of the connector at the transponder end,
> and the frame of the airplane. Unless this is an unusual antenna, I
> expect this to be a zero ohm reading. If the blade transponder
> antennas are standard, then either the cable is bad, or the antenna is
> poorly mounted, and I will have to pull up the carpet and inspection
> panels to look at it. I didn't want to do that, only to find out the
> transponder antenna design is unusual. /
Jeff,
It would be interesting to know whether the previous transponder was
working.
What are the dimensions of your blade XPDR antenna ?
If it is in the 3.23" skin to top ball park, then the antenna is "usual".
I notice you mentioned the antenna has been sitting on the airplane skin
for decades. Maybe it is a good time for dissassembling, ensuring clean
metal contact, and changing the aging coax ?
Season's greetings
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
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Subject: | Re: Transponder Antenna |
It depends on the vintage Cessna. Many from the era before TCAs did not
come with a transponder, only those that were sold with an IFR radio
package were likely to have one. If the blade has been on the airplane a
long time, I'd put odds as more than 50% that the cable is bad. Not to
mention that it is very likely RG-58 or similar variety cable for an old
mode C transponder. You really want RG-400 for an ADS-B transponder. So
I would say it is very worth the effort to remove the old cable, check
the antenna and the cable. If you can find a homebuilder with the
crimper and RG-400, it would be cheaper than ordering the proper length
pre-made cable or having an avionics shop make one up. Expect at least
$3.00 per foot or more for the RG-400. It wasn't that many years ago
that some BNC connectors were either compression or soldered assemblies.
I had one that was produced in the '70s that gave me no amount of grief
on a com radio until I finally spotted that the soldered shield
connection on one end was a cold solder joint. My last aircraft had
transponder cable with compression BNC connector that often came apart
when belly panel had to be removed for annual. Fixed that with a crimp
on connector.
On 1/1/2019 1:08 AM, Tundra10 wrote:
>
> This is a Cessna 172, so the aluminum skin is ground.
> During the measurement I made, the cable was not connected to the transponder,
but was connected to the antenna.
> I measured from the shield of the connector at the transponder end, and the frame
of the airplane.
> Unless this is an unusual antenna, I expect this to be a zero ohm reading.
> If the blade transponder antennas are standard, then either the cable is bad,
or the antenna is poorly mounted, and I will have to pull up the carpet and inspection
panels to look at it.
> I didn't want to do that, only to find out the transponder antenna design is
unusual.
>
> Thanks !
>
> Jeff Page
> Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486632#486632
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Subject: | When / where to use dielectric grease? |
Recently, while inspecting the engine compartment after some routine maintenance,
I noted a section of "browned and crispy" wire insulation. This particular
wire was one of the 3 phase wires which come from the 30A PMA associated with
the engine. The brown and crispy portion was at the back of a plastic 6 blade
connector half where crimped 1/4 female spade connectors are inserted to mate
with the Regulator/Rectifier. The crimps are good, all spades firmly seated
into the shell, though the spade (associated with the browned wire) location
on the shell also show sign of getting too hot. But only at the one spade connection.
Overheating due to high resistance is the only thing that comes to mind.
I did apply dielectric grease to these particular spades to help them fully
mate and as a corrosion/moisture preventative. I do this routinely on older
cars up here in the Northeast with no issues. Could this be a problem? I
routinely draw 18-22 amps while flying but when topping off the batteries will
draw closer to 30 amps for 10-15 minutes of flying if the batteries have been
drawn down for extended times during non flight activity. Note that the output
from the R/R looked fine but they are a larger gauge wire. (12 versus 14 of
the 3 phase wires into the R/R) Rather lengthy problem description for what appear
to be an overheated wire, open for all thoughts or ideas. The only one
I can come up with is poor connection, though not sure of the mechanism. Thanks,
Happy New Year to all!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486635#486635
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Subject: | Re: When / where to use dielectric grease? |
Le 01/01/2019 18:49, blues750 a crit:
> I did apply dielectric grease to these particular spades to help them fully
mate and as a corrosion/moisture preventative. I do this routinely on older
cars up here in the Northeast with no issues. Could this be a problem? I routinely
draw 18-22 amps while flying but when topp!
Hello,
Just to mention that "dielectric" means "insulating".
Don't know if this is a problem, but gas tight metal to metal is key.
> Rather lengthy problem description for what appear to be an overheated wire,
open for all thoughts or ideas. The only one I can come up with is poor connection,
though not sure of the mechanism.
We have had the same issue with some wires off the voltage regulator
connector. We replaced the wires and spade terminal, paying attention to
the quality of the crimp.
Happy New Year !
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
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Subject: | Re: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls |
You're right, I have the internal dynamo, but I saw that someone installed an external
alternator. My aircraft is a zenair Ch 601 hds.
Thanks for the info, I check that.
Daniel
Envoy de mon iPad
> Le 31 dc. 2018 19:52, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> a crit :
>
>
> By "No Alternator", I assume that you mean no external alternator. But your
engine does have an internal dynamo, correct?
> Do you have Bob Nuckolls' book? Download it at http://www.aeroelectric.com/Book/AEC_R12A.pdf
> Individual schematics can be downloaded at http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/
> Z-16 would be a good starting point. I would use a 30 amp fuse instead of a
dynamo fuselink.
> What kind of airplane is it?
> Post your intended wiring diagram to get suggestions from others.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486628#486628
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls |
No, it's an old edition 912 UL.
Thanks.
Envoy de mon iPad
> Le 31 dc. 2018 20:37, GTH <gilles.thesee@free.fr> a crit :
>
>
>> Le 01/01/2019 01:52, user9253 a crit :
>>
>> By "No Alternator", I assume that you mean no external alternator. But your
engine does have an internal dynamo, correct?
>> Do you have Bob Nuckolls' book? Download it at http://www.aeroelectric.com/Book/AEC_R12A.pdf
>> Individual schematics can be downloaded at http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/
>> Z-16 would be a good starting point. I would use a 30 amp fuse instead of a
dynamo fuselink.
>
> Daniel,
>
> I'll second Joe's answer.
> If your engine is a 912, it doesn't require a second battery and Z16 is adequate.
> But your mention of two batteries rings a bell. Do you rather mean the more recent
fuel injected, electrically dependent, 912 iS ?
> Then it is another kettle of fish and you'll need several separate switches.
>
> Season's greetings
> --
> Best regards,
> Gilles
> http://contrails.free.fr
>
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: When / where to use dielectric grease? |
Gilles, I think you may be on to something! I likely "gobbed" on too much dielectric
grease and prevented a good electrical connection as the grease heated
up and spread over the metal to metal connections. My plan is to clean up and
replace the connections, reassemble with no dielectric grease! Thanks for the
reply. Cheers! Dave
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486639#486639
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Subject: | Re: Fuse-able link |
At 12:06 PM 12/29/2018, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>I sent you the old parts minus the "sleeve" and I fabricated a new
>fuse-link that worked for about 2 flight hours with a new Plane
>Power 60amp alternator. It failed and when I pulled on the wire, it
>separated in the middle of the fuse link 22ga. A picture is attached.
Emacs!
The guys are right. There is a hard-fault
condition that is taking out the fusible
link. Somewhere between your bus bar
and the panel mounted circuit breaker.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: When / where to use dielectric grease? |
If you tighten the hardware properly or if both halves the spade connection are
good and fit properly, it is impossible to get too much grease on the connection
(unless you count ugly as too much).
Likewise, if you start with a gas tight, metal-to-metal connection grease cannot
get into the joint and cause it to open, be high resistance or be intermittent.
Gas tight means that gas (air) cannot
get between the contacts, so grease, which is much higher molecular weight than
air (much larger molecules), certainly can't get in there.
Putting the dielectric grease onto already tightened or mated connections will
help protect the exposed parts of the connection (although not really necessary
except in very harsh environments), but
will have no effect on the actual connection.
The chances are good that the connection either was defective in the first place
(not a good gas tight connection) or loosened with time for some reason (possibly
the wire to the spade was not
sufficiently supported?). Once it starts to get loose and has measurable resistance,
it heats each time it is used and just gets worse with time until you get
what you now have.
Dick Tasker
blues750 wrote:
>
> Gilles, I think you may be on to something! I likely "gobbed" on too much dielectric
grease and prevented a good electrical connection as the grease heated
up and spread over the metal to metal connections. My plan is to clean up and
replace the connections, reassemble with no dielectric grease! Thanks for
the reply. Cheers! Dave
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486639#486639
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: When / where to use dielectric grease? |
Most common grease is dielectric. Its use should not cause a problem. A properly
crimped joint forces all grease out from between the metals. I have coated
automotive battery terminals with grease and the vehicle still starts fine.
The problem is due to a bad crimp.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486643#486643
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: When / where to use dielectric grease? |
Joe & Gaggle:
Dielectric Grease is Silicon based all 100% synthetic. Automotive greases,
and oils for that matter which are NOT 100% synthetic, and there should not
be any 100% synthetics. [Yes, I know they advertise 100% synthetic but
unless something has changed no, engine oil is 100% synthetic.] Petroleum
Oils & Greases will trap moisture! Just like the water that is found in
your engine oil. The axle grease on the battery terminals will work for a
long, long time. It is just not the best way to attack the issue. Do you
really need to go the route of the Ultimate Silicon Dielectric Grease
path? Well, not for a automotive battery terminal. BUT! For the whole
$1.00 for a Permatex packet - YES - That is the way to go. And when using
the dielectric grease on terminals of different metals:- copper, silver,
gold, tin, solder and mixtures of them, why take a chance of corrosion.
After all, we know automotive oils do become acidic!
The posted question on WHY use dielectric grease especially since the term
dielectric means Non-Conductive. GREAT QUESTION!
Slop on the dielectric grease to the point of just becoming sloppy.
THEN complete the connection... Fast-On connectors just slide them
together. As they push together the CONTACT POINTS will make both a
mechanical and an electrical contact pushing the dielectric grease out of
the way. YET! The grease will be in enough places to create a oxygen and
moisture barrier. DON'T think you solved the problem for ALL time. The
dielectric grease will migrate and become washed off, by YOU - When you
wash the plane or use engine de-greasers or fly through rain. Use it...
Then re-use it when you cannot see the nice coating you original put on.
Joe - You said it! BAD CRIMP! Yup, I agree 1,000 %. Wrong size
terminal. Wrong size wire for the terminal. Wrong type wire used. Wrong
TOOL used for the crimp.
Little Trick: One job that I worked on where the terminals were in a
particularly difficult location to get at for inspection or repair AND the
piece of equipment was was on the deck of an Aircraft Carrier for extended
periods of time. The requirement was to:
1 - Put Dielectric Grease - IN - the terminal BEFORE CRIMPING.
2 - Dip the wire into Dielectric Grease.
3 - Assemble and then CRIMP.
There were no issues of a resistive connection.
Yes, I do believe in dielectric grease.
And, it's great for keeping your hair in place on dry staticky days.
Barry
On Tue, Jan 1, 2019 at 8:50 PM user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Most common grease is dielectric. Its use should not cause a problem. A
> properly crimped joint forces all grease out from between the metals. I
> have coated automotive battery terminals with grease and the vehicle still
> starts fine. The problem is due to a bad crimp.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486643#486643
>
>
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Subject: | Official AeroElectric-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) |
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A phpBB BBS web Forums front end is available for all AeroElectric-List content.
content. The Forums contain all of the same content available via the email
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Email Distribution of the List, however.
The Matroincs Email List Web BBS Forums can be found at the following URL:
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In an attempt to make it easy to store and find structured and often accessed
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The Wiki allows individuals to create web pages to contain useful information
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*** List Archives ***
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A file containing of all of the previous postings to the AeroElectric-List is
available on line. The archive file information is available via the
Web and FTP in a number of forms. Each are briefly described below:
* AeroElectric-List.FAQ
- Latest version of the AeroElectric-List Frequently Asked Question
page (this document).
* AeroElectric-Archive.digest.complete
- Complete file with most of the email header info removed and
page breaks inserted between messages.
* AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-??
- Same as the file above, but broken up into small sections that
can more easily handled.
* AeroElectric-Archive.digest.complete.zip
- Same as the AeroElectric-Archive.digest.complete file above, but
in PKZIP format. Use "binary" data transfer methods.
* AeroElectric-Archive.digest.complete.Z
- Same as the AeroElectric-Archive.digest.complete file above, but
in
UNIX compress format. Use "binary" data transfer methods.
Download Via FTP
----------------
The archive file is available via anonymous FTP from ftp.matronics.com
in the "/pub/Archives" directory. It is updated daily and can be found in
a number of formats as described above. (All filenames are case sensitive.)
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Archives
Download Via Web
----------------
The archives are also available via a web listing. These can be found
toward the bottom of the following web page:
http://www.matronics.com/archives
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*** Complete List Web Archive Browsing ***
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All messages posted to the AeroElectric-List are also available using the
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in the List are indexed, and individual sub-archives can be browsed.
http://www.matronics.com/archive/archive-index.cgi?AeroElectric
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**** High-Speed Archive Search Engine ***
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You can use the custom, high-performance Matronics Email List Search Engine
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http://www.matronics.com/search
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!! ==> Please including the following information with each submission:
1) Email Lists that they are related to.
2) Your Full Name.
3) Your Email Address.
4) One line Subject description.
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic.
6-x) One-line Description of each photo or file
Prior to public availability of the files and photos, each will be scanned
for viruses. Please also note that the process of making the files and
photos available on the web site is a pseudo-manual process, and I try to
process them every few days.
Following the availability of the new Photoshare, an email message will be
sent to the Email Lists enumerated in 1) above indicating that the new
Share is available and what the direct URL to it is.
For a current list of available Photoshares, have a look at the Main
Index Page:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
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*** List Archive CDROM ***
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A complete Matronics Email List Archive CD is available that contains
all of the archives since the beginning of each of the Lists. The archives
for all of the Lists are included on the CD along with a freeware search
engine written by a list member. The CD is burned the day you order it
and will contain archive received up to the last minute. They make
great gifts!
http://www.matronics.com/ArchiveCDROM
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Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the AeroElectric-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the AeroElectric-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
AeroElectric-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the AeroElectric-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
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|
Subject: | Official AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines |
Dear Listers,
Please read over the AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
AeroElectric-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/AeroElectric-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the AeroElectric-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the AeroElectric-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
AeroElectric-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the AeroElectric-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
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